Multi-cooker-pressure cooker-slow cooker Steba DD1 Eco

Strange, few people cook for 0.3? I make porridge and stewed vegetables only 0.3. it happens that I use 0.3 more often. For me, everything is somehow fresh).

[Robin bobin]

Robin bobin, Lena! Very few people have Shtebs able to cook at a pressure of 0.3. The bulk of Shtebs simply have no reaction to this pressure. Therefore, almost no one cooks by 0.3. Much has been written about this. If your Shtebochka cooks at this pressure, then you are in luck. Take care of her. Excellent pressure for cooking many foods, cereals in particular.

[Robin bobin]

Robin bobin, I make oatmeal 2 mst oatmeal -5 mst liquid (milk-water in half) at 0.7 pressure for 10 minutes, and by 0.3 how much? I want to try maybe I will succeed

[kartinka]

kartinka, Marina, but everything is simple. Here I cooked, for example, pea soup. Well, the first - it's all boiled peas, the whole lid was supported and if it lies down, it will dry out, the second is the smell. The lid is urgently "in the bath", I throw it upside down and fill it with water. Everything is soaked, and peas and something else ... everything is washed off. I disassemble the valves and mine too, knocking out everything that is stuck and burnt with toothpicks. Drying, shines like new!

Very few people have Shtebs able to cook at a pressure of 0.3. The bulk of Shtebs simply have no reaction to this pressure.

Masha Ivanova, Lenawhy? I also rarely use this mode, but if enough liquid is taken for the dish, then everything works.

Here I cooked, for example, pea soup. Well, the first thing is that all the boiled peas were all over the lid

I boiled beans and lentils - the lid is clean. Are peas so reactive? I was just about to cook. I have already stocked up on smoked meats, and now I have absolutely no desire.

The lid has never been removed from boiling peas. The lid is always clean, only condensation.

Well! The lid was taken apart, everything is clean inside. Washed and cleaned all over again. The float was soaked and cleaned, especially from the inside (yesterday). I even took pictures, but I can't post it. Spun perfectly. All silicone is new.
The pressure builds up, the temperature is 116-118, and the reset begins immediately. Less than a minute - and already 109. At 98 the float falls (
The husband says it's a pity to throw it away (Let's try something else.

The lid is always clean, only condensation.

And on my lid there is nothing but condensation. Even oatmeal is no problem.

The pressure builds up, the temperature is 116-118 and, immediately, the reset begins. Less than a minute-and already 109. At 98 the float falls (

That is, it picks up the temperature, stops heating and does not turn it on anymore, or what? Does it continue to cool down until the end of the program?

The fact that the temperature drops from 118 to 109 is just normal, this is correct heating. Very often, at the end of the program, the temperature is even lower by 0.7, this is natural. Thinking about how it works.)

But how do you manage to keep track of the temperature during the program? She is only visible in Heating. Or not?

Lena, I may not have described it very accurately or not correctly. But, not in the process the temperature. Immediately after the end of the program. I put it on for 3 minutes, the float rose (before the cover was disassembled and all the parts were washed, it did not rise at all, it hovered mercilessly) and, after three minutes of work, Shteba's temperature also beeps at 118. It seems to me that it takes less than a minute to drop the temperature to 109 it's very fast. Also, the float drops to 97-98.
Or maybe the heater flew? Ten or what is the correct name?

[Ilmirushka]

Ilmirushka,

Drying, shines like new!

Bliiin, and I don't get a lid on the lid initially when boiling a soup-compote - everything is liquid, I pour less water - I boil it and after cooking I add volume (but I don’t bleed the pressure on liquids, I’m waiting), I specially looked at the lid, clean I wash it, of course, but it's enough to rinse it under the stream and fffse periodically remove the large valve, but did not disassemble
yet not a single gasket here, yes, mine, and in a bowl of vinegar (from the smell) -lit -wash -wipe and again into battle (the second spare has not even been pulled out of the box

[Gingi]

Are peas so reactive?

Gingi, Galina, this is not a pea jet. I just don't know how to cook a little, and I always cook to the eyeballs. Therefore and only for this reason there are ... traces of pea puree on the lid. Girls, don't take everything literally

I cook peas in exactly the same way as Ilmira, in exactly the same amount, the lid always gets dirty, I cook 1 kg at once. Everything is washed without problems. And I successfully freeze peas in portions - for soup, for hummus (I like hummus from peas more than from chickpeas) and other things.

I put it on for 3 minutes, the float rose (before the lid was disassembled and all the parts were washed, it did not rise at all, it steamed mercilessly) and, after three minutes of work, Shteba also beeps at 118.

Well! Yet it was a float problem. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the hole for the float, the silicone ring and the float itself again. And check how the black valve is dressed. It is necessary that he be tightly dressed, for this, press firmly on him with your hand, it happens that he has not completely entered. And check the nut under it, remove the strainer and tighten.

after three minutes of work Shteba beeps and the temperature is 118

If it beeps and shows the temperature, it means it has turned off. This is not a float problem.

If it beeps and shows the temperature, it means it has turned off.

So she put on for 3 minutes. The staff worked for 3 minutes and turned off, normal work.

Oh, well, yes ... For 3 minutes ... I didn't read it
So what's the problem then? Got up pressure, worked it out, passed out. Does the temperature drop quickly? Maybe there was little liquid in the bowl. A full saucepan of compote or jellied meat cools for a long time.
By the way, my valve also goes down to 97-98 *.

So we assembled and disassembled twice))) The float is polished and everything else) Twisted and ground in. Silicone is all new. What else does she want, I don't know.
You put the soup steam from all the cracks. Lid in water from the inside. You pour water, immediately after the failure with the soup (into the second bowl), put it on, steam goes a little (there was no earlier), the float jumped, temp. 118 and after two minutes. you can open the lid)))



And today I baked it with a curd casserole. At least it will do. I bet on "porridge", pressure 0.3 and 1-20. Happened.

[Seoul]

steam goes a little (there was no earlier), the float jumped, temp. 118 and after two minutes. you can open the lid)))

Seoul, Elena, I don't understand anything here at all, if the float jumped, it means that the pressure has accumulated and the lid is blocked. The selected program is running. Why can you open the lid after 2 minutes.
If the pressure has accumulated (and this is evidenced by the slammed float), then after 2 minutes it, by no means, can decrease to the level when the lid can be opened. It takes some time to release pressure.

sometimes the silicone is not tightly inserted and then the pressure does not gain, although the contents are already boiling .. I remove the lid with my hands, I correct it and ok ... and once again I dropped the lid and the float cracked, I had to buy a new lid .... that's it, I cook further

the float is cracked

how can it crack, it is inside the lid and there is nothing to crack, a bolt with a silicone ring, a metal "curtain" that closes the hole, that's it.

Ilmira, that's what I'm saying))) If it all started with the fact that steam was pouring from under the lid and the float did not rise, and a lot of water formed under the lid ...Then, after disassembling and washing the lid and all the spare parts, the float rises, but ... at the end of the program, the pressure drops very quickly. Always at least 30 min. and you wait longer for the float to fall, but then you don't have to wait.
Yesterday we dismantled and reassembled the lid again. Everything is clean, as it was. Today there will be tests.

[Seoul]

at the end of the program, the pressure drops very quickly. Always at least 30 min.

Seoul, Elena, I have neither one nor the other. Let's figure it out. The fact that there is a lot of water-vapor-condensate on the lid is normal, it boils inside, where can the water go, due to this, the pressure rises. This is normal. Further, you write at the end of the program ... so after all, the program does not stop half way, does it end? And only then does the lid open? If so, that's okay too. What else is there? The time to relieve pressure ... well, I don’t know, I never have 30 minutes, in the sense that if you need to do something further, I didn’t time the exact time, but maybe 10-15 minutes, sometimes 20 minutes longer. you right away?
One moment pleases, if the lid is blocked and the program works completely, what bothers you? CastrUlka is working!

[Seoul]

Seoul, Elena, and the O-ring tried to change?
With the standard ring, I also hovered strongly from under the cover, even if the valve was closing. The replacement of the ring helped (I bought it from Unit).

30 minutes is if the pan is full of liquid.

[Robin bobin]

Robin bobin, Lena! Very few people have Shtebs able to cook at a pressure of 0.3. The bulk of Shtebs simply have no reaction to this pressure. Therefore, almost no one cooks by 0.3. Much has been written about this. If your Shtebochka cooks at this pressure, then you are in luck. Take care of her. Excellent pressure for cooking many foods, cereals in particular.

Oh thanks, haven't seen this information before. I don't cook at 0.3, everything is raw, I thought I was doing something wrong ...

[Robin bobin]

Robin bobin, and what is the reason, that Shteba does not cook at 0.3, very interesting !?
Once I decided to cook porridge at this pressure, indeed the cereal remained raw. Apparently I came across such a copy.

[Seoul]

I don't cook at 0.3, everything is raw, I thought I was doing something wrong ...

Well, how is that?)) People cook in slow cookers at 80-90 degrees and do not seem to eat raw, but here boiling is present (that is, there is at least 100), and the products are raw ?!

One moment pleases, if the lid is blocked and the program works completely, what bothers you? CastrUlka is working!

Here I have this bewilderment on that page.))

Seoul, You sometimes substitute concepts, maybe that's the source of the confusion? The temperature on the sensor under the bowl and the pressure are still different things, although they can be partially related. The heater turns on, raises the temperature to some preset parameters (opinions differ - does it do it in terms of temperature, pressure, or both?) And turns off. The bottom of the bowl is at its highest at this point, right? What happens next? The contents of the bowl take the temperature away. And the thinner it is (and there is more of it), the faster. The bottom of the bowl cools down, the heater turns on again and everything is repeated from the beginning.

If you listen, the moments of switching on and off are perfectly audible. And if, for example, you put the same buckwheat for 3 minutes, sometimes you can run into such a development of events that the cartoon warms, warms, warms ... Then bam! - turned on the program on the display and turned off the heater. All. The released 3 minutes pass, but it does not turn on anymore - well, the temperature (or pressure) has not dropped to the desired one. And the time is up. What temperature will the display show after switching to Heating? That's right, small.

And if in the allotted time period the heating has time to be repeated, then the degrees can be very high, especially if the product has already absorbed water and now removes heat worse. Try turning over, for example, bread, set it to 0.3 in just 1 minute.The program will already be turned off, and the temperature will continue to rise - the heater is hot and the stored heat continues to heat, and the bread does not have time to take this heat away. The bowl can warm up to 200-250 degrees. At the same time, of course, there is no pressure there and there is no close.))

So as soon as you get the hang of predicting what's going on inside, how to steer the Shteboy will become much easier, and the fears will go away. The most fatal thing is steam from under the lid. ((Indeed, this is a mess, as well as prolonged hovering through the float without raising it. In all other respects, the cartoon works correctly.

[Bijou]

Bijou, Lena, yes, if it soars for a long time, and the water under the lid is well on the black rim of Shteba herself ... that's the question! I had this once a couple of times, but only because of the ring, which I did not straighten before closing. That is, Shtebka is working, trying to boil everything. the temperature has reached, but it cannot gain pressure due to non-tightness, so steam-water is rushing. She began to closely follow the ring - everything is in order, pah-pah.

well, not the float itself, but the valve probably .. in short, a crack was visible and the pressure was not recruited .. but for what I love the head on it, it turned out to be not a problem to buy a cover at all and a bunch of accessories ...

[lustra]

a crack was visible

lustra, Ludmila, on what and in what place was this crack? On the black valve itself that rotates?

there was a crack in the plastic inside the steam outlet when you remove the cap you could see ...

when you take off the lid

As far as I understand, you call the black valve itself a "cap", which is black and with which you can forcibly release the pressure? And the crack was in the groove, where should this black valve be placed? If this is so, so then guess, reason, the crack was in the lid itself, in the place where the valve is placed. There is only replacement of the entire cover.

a crack, it was in the lid itself in the place where the valve is placed. There is only replacement of the entire cover.

For me Shteba with cracks in this depression (and in different directions from it) worked for two years, steadily gaining and holding pressure. And only when the pieces of plastic began to crumble and fall out, I replaced the cover with a new one.
This red plastic cover serves only as a decorative function of the casing, the entire load is borne by the metal base.

[Biryusa]

Biryusa, Olga, I just examined my cover, there are no cracks, but there are already some hints. That is, when crumbs began to pour out of your lid, Steba stopped gaining pressure, did I understand correctly?

[Ilmirushka]

Ilmirushka, Ilmira, no, Shteba continued to regularly gain and hold pressure, I just began to fear that with an awkward movement these pieces could get into the bowl.
And I bought a new lid as soon as a "cobweb" appeared on the plastic, but this lid lay with me for two years (however, I already wrote about it).

Good day! I have trouble - my Steba DD1 burned out, there was such a clap that the machine gun was knocked out. The husband disassembled and found that the board was burned. I called the service center in my city and they answered that the staffs are not being repaired. And I didn't load her much. it only has sous vide and ham, for everything else there are other pressure cooker multi-cookers, thanks to the forum.

that's why I replaced the whole cover

I called the service center in my city and they answered that the staffs are not being repaired.

Please contact Valeriy, Shteba's representative, who may help you https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&action=profile;u=89146;start=0

[LyubaVik]

LyubaVik, you can change the board from Shteba and, since you still change, you can buy a board from Shteba DD2 with the most recent changes (I don't know if Shteba DD2 has heating on / off)

Olya and Elena Thank you! I'll try to contact Valery, otherwise I really miss Steba DD1 Eco. And in general, it is not possible to set the temperature in 1 degree increments in every multicooker.

[LyubaVik]

LyubaVik, and if you take a board from DD2, then the yearning plus you will add! And there is such a temperature range, class! My favorite mode.

Thank you Elena!

I called the service center in my city and they answered that the staffs are not being repaired.

If you want to upgrade to dd2 plugs, you need to change both boards, both power and control boards. A husband with hands and head can do it himself, the main thing is to order boards in the maximum comfort and receive them (by mail, for example).

Girls who had cracks on the Shtebok lids, I, when my plastic parts began to crumble on the lid, also turned to Valery. They sent me these plastics for ridiculous money, I disassembled and assembled everything myself and the lid became like new.



And we changed the fee, nothing complicated, even for not very handy ...

[LudMila]

LudMila, I wrote to Valery. but he is not online. Tomorrow I'll try to contact Comfort Maximum. Thank you for the tip.

Girls, in the Comfort-maximum boards will appear only in September. I made a request, they answered for a week. My first Shtebochka burned out, I already asked advice in Temka: to repair or buy a new basic model Dd2. As a result, I bought a new one, but it came with a manufacturing defect, hung up on the Steam program, then stopped switching to anything else altogether. Fortunately, they made a return on ozone without problems. Now I came back to the fact that it was necessary to repair my old Shteba. Thank you for giving a link to Valeria, I also wrote, I am waiting for an answer. I got used to the assistant, how bad it is without her ...

Girls who had cracks on the Shtebok lids, I, when my plastic parts began to crumble on the lid, also turned to Valery. They sent me these plastics for ridiculous money, I disassembled and assembled everything myself and the lid became like new.

Marina, can you replace the handle? For me, both from dd1 and dd2 with chips - they flew from the table.

Elya, Valery also told me that the boards will be in September, but I already bought a discounted one after repairs in the CSN, and the control board was also replaced in it. The price is 2 thousand, in general the multicooker turned out to be in excellent condition and DD2, we wanted it for spare parts, but changed our mind, we use it. Look, you might get lucky.

in general, the multicooker turned out to be in excellent condition and DD2, we wanted it for spare parts, but changed our mind and use it.

Oooh ... my favorite option!
How many times have I got this way - I buy a restored second copy "for spare parts", and then it works and works!
I didn’t know about CSN, before, I only hunted in Yulmart. Still remember I use non-stick bowls for Shteba for less than three hundred rubles.))