Pressure cooker Moulinex Cook4Me CE 7011 - 6 liters small miracle

thanks a lot, I'll take it on board

Good day! For about a week now I have had this miracle of technology. ))) And there are many questions. You can make jam / preserves in it. There are a lot of drains, but I don't want to cook on the stove, plus the children are constantly running around. Maybe someone already wrote about jams ...

This miracle also appeared for me.

For about a week now I have had this miracle of technology.

Where do you get them?

Good day! For about a week now I have had this miracle of technology. ))) And there are many questions. You can make jam / preserves in it. There are a lot of drains, but I don't want to cook on the stove, plus the children are constantly running around. Maybe someone already wrote about jams ...

I cook jam in a bread maker. I haven't tried it in the cartoon ...
Where did you manage to buy it?

Where do you get them?

Where did you manage to buy it?

We sell them too.

We sell them too.

And we have?

[Anya]

Anya, two months ago I bought a new one for my mother on Avito for 1500. I bought myself a year ago, too, on Avito, a new one for 5000 in Ivanovo

[Anya]

Anya, two months ago I bought a new one for my mother on Avito for 1500. I bought myself a year ago, too, on Avito, a new one for 5000 in Ivanovo

Lucky.

Where did you manage to buy it?

My husband ordered on OLX. So I think, in the "jellied" mode, it will not work to cook jam ???

[IrynaM]

IrynaM, try then tell

Hello! A week ago I acquired this miracle and so far I am very pleased. The only thing that bothers you a little is a short signal, which is emitted literally for 1 second, after about a minute of the start of the cooking process with the lid closed, under pressure. Please tell me what it can mean and whether to contact me about this in the service.

It's okay, this is a message that the pressure has accumulated and the work has started. 😉

bought a new one for 1500

Anna, this is the price! Congratulations!

I often use it, and now the Zucchini caviar is boiled, then I open it, blender, add vinegar and roll it up. Very comfortably!
But I have such a problem with the bowl, it really upsets me. It sticks so strongly during frying that nothing can be peeled off or soaked. Especially meat. Previously, I fried everything and for quick cooking, I pour a lot of butter, but it does not save, but now the whole bottom, all the honeycombs are clogged with unwashed food. In general, I'm crying.
I cook jellied meat, mashed peas, squash caviar, boil offal by hand, like a double boiler I often use for eggs, potatoes, carrots for salads. But this is a very limited use, I would like to cook more. Well, that's the trouble ...
With the acquisition of the Element, I even thought to get rid of it, decided to leave it, but she is such a beauty, the external plastic is very high quality, cute, it costs more for decoration, I go, I stroke her

I bought another saucepan, it seems to me that it is better, but I fry the meat in a pan (I'm afraid to ruin it 😃)

[busia]

busia, I want to cover the saucepan with Teflon, maybe at the same time the corrugated bottom will become smooth One thing is embarrassing that the saucepan seems to be with a ceramic coating (well, in general, not a black film that can be scraped off), and it is not clear how they can sandblast it, suddenly it will not work? We covered the usual Teflon pans again, everything was smooth, normal. There is a frying pan with a ceramic sticking coating, I don't use it either, here. For the future, I made the conclusion never to buy "uneven bottom with honeycombs"

I have had this pressure cooker for a long time, I use it often, there are no problems with the bowl

[Lisichkalal]

Lisichkalal, it seems to me that it overheats me on frying. Although I may be cooking incorrectly myself. This is how I do it.
I turn on Manual - frying with an empty bowl, it heats up until the signal for about five minutes, then I pour in the vegetable oil, it flows to the center of the bowl, I put pieces of meat right after the oil (I washed a large piece of meat, blotted it with a paper towel, cut it, didn’t blot it anymore). That is, the meat is a little moist), those pieces that did not fall into the puddle of oil, but close to the edges on the greased surface are strongly welded, this becomes clear when I stir it after a few minutes. Do not peel the meat at the edges, the crust with parts of the fibers remains stuck to the bottom. During the stirring process, the shoulder blade stumbles over these bumps. Everything with the lid open. After a few minutes of torment, I throw in the onions, salt, pepper, fry a little more, sometimes stir in Fast cooking for five minutes with the lid closed .. Very tasty, but you can't wash the pan with anything.

I also put cutlets, it is impossible to turn over with a crust, if only three pieces are fried in the middle of the saucepan.

Onions with carrots in butter do not stick, if I throw meat next to them, then there is no hint of a crust.

[busia]

busia, I want to cover the saucepan with Teflon, maybe at the same time the corrugated bottom will become smooth One thing is embarrassing that the saucepan seems to be with a ceramic coating (well, in general, not a black film that can be scraped off), and it is not clear how they can sandblast it, suddenly it will not work? We covered the usual Teflon pans again, everything was smooth, normal. There is a frying pan with a ceramic sticking coating, I also don't use it, here. For the future, I made a conclusion to never buy "uneven bottom with honeycombs"

Are you sure of the safety of the coating you are going to cover the saucepan with? Isn't it easier to buy a new saucepan?
I fry in a pan and fold in a cartoon for further cooking.

[solesito]

solesito, ordinary teflon, opinions about it are different. I've already lost the habit of frying in a pan, now I'm cooking in Element.

We will cook really crumbly wheat porridge in water.

We take wheat groats, preferably coarsely ground. We wash it very thoroughly until the water becomes clear, without turbidity at the bottom. We put cereals and water in a mule in a ratio of 1: 1.75 by volume or by weight. Salt to taste, and start in Ingredients - Rice and cereals - Wheat, in time depending on the weight of the cereal. For me for 400 grams of cereal, just 9-10 minutes. At the end of the mode, open the lid, put 75-150 grams of butter, to taste, mix everything gently evenly, until the butter dissolves, close the lid, and put it in the "Warm up" mode (or leave it on heating) for at least 30 minutes, or better for an hour and a half. Voila.

Thank you very much, I have already cooked this way several times, everything turns out very tasty. Today I was going to make wheat again, but it ended. I decided to replace it with millet. I washed one multi-glass of cereal, added 1 tsp. from x / p salt, water 1: 1.75, the program Cereals-Wheat (no other was invented) - 10 min. Upon completion, I added some salt and added plums. oils. They ate everything at once, did not leave to steam. I liked it, the grains were all cooked, there were no hard ones left, I cooked millet on water for the first time.

Hello everyone! I haven't been here for a long time ...

In the first lines, Captain Obvious wants to say that a complete analogue of our multicooker is now releasing TEFAL.
Yes, this is a new generation with bluetooth gadgets, but the presence or absence of bluetooth does not affect the taste of the soup and the cooking time of the lamb shoulder.
So search the Internet for the combination of the words "TEFAL Cook4me" - a lot of recipes and videos. Even, KMK, more than in the days of Mulinex.

Secondly, after 4 years of everyday use (buckwheat with cottage cheese in the morning during the working week strongly contributes to the observance of the weight-loss-supporting balance of the BZHU, and on weekends - all sorts of goodies that make it necessary to maintain the weight-loss balance of the BZHU) the encoder began to fail (synonym - the valcoder ; what we spin and what we click "OK"). It looks like this: you twist it, and it reacts inhibited. Skips clicks. Patience (in half a year ...) finally ended, and I disassembled, cleaned, assembled the device. And now everything works "like from a store" again. But, of course, it is advisable not to clean the encoder, but to replace it.The item costs from 120 to 240 rubles (depending on the seller's greed. Digi-Key wholesale price $ 1.28. "One and a half dollars, Karl! One and a half dollars!").
There are no markings on the part, but judging by the appearance, dimensions and internal structure, this part was made by BOURNS, an encoder type PEC12R-4120F-S0012
you can also use PEC12R-3120F-S0012.
If your encoder starts to glitch, it's better to buy / order a new one in advance. While your patience is running out, he will just arrive.

DO NOT ATTEMPT to access the knob through the "face" of our alien - the silver face, the front panel and knob of the knob can be removed ONLY from the inside.

I won't do a photo report [yet], everything is as simple as an orange. Any housewife who has a soldering iron (better for 40 watts), a Phillips screwdriver (No. 1, but No. 2 is also possible), tweezers, cotton swabs, a toothpick and a little acetone can quite cope with this task.
It is believed that the soldering iron is equipped with solder, flux (RMA-223, LTI-120, SKF, crushed rosin dissolved in alcohol, or simply rosin - are listed in descending order of preference). The presence of a braid for soldering parts from printed circuit boards is highly appreciated - this will greatly simplify the removal of the knob for cleaning / replacement. It would be very good to have silicone grease for lubricating moving electrical contacts (you can spray. Well, you lubricate rubber seals on plastic windows with silicone every spring and autumn?), Or technical petroleum jelly (but WD-40 is completely unsuitable! , a cosmetic vaseline with perfume will go ...).

HINT # 1: In the process of disassembly, take a photo (at least on your phone). In case you accidentally pull off a connector (even Nekrasov wrote that housewives in Russian villages are OGO-GO!) - you will know where he came from and where he should be turned.
HINT # 2: Take something like a tray for freezing ice cubes and put the screws removed at different stages of disassembly into the cells of that tray in order from left to right in accordance with the stage - so as not to confuse which screw to screw where during assembly.
HINT # 3: A housewife can always harness the house (or even wild) owner to work, promising something tasty from a repaired multicooker. Flattery, blackmail, and even (especially if the housewife is OGO-GO!) Direct threats are also good.

Disconnect the power cord, remove the condensate receiver, remove the bowl, close the lid.
We spread a towel on the table and put our "alien" on it, bottom to top.
We unscrew and take out a single visible screw; from the side of the screw we pry on and take out the lattice bottom - it is flexible, we just pull it "neatly but firmly" - it will bend itself where it needs to be.
Unscrew and remove the two small screws holding the "trough" with the PCB.
We unscrew the two large screws holding the rubber bushings, take them out together with the bushings.
The "trough" with the printed circuit board can be brought out from under the edge of the case to the middle and up.
There are three connectors on the board, just disconnect the big white one. But it's easier - all three. These are VERY durable connectors (type JST) and, if there was no factory defect during installation, it is simply not realistic to damage them, even if you just pull the wires. And we do not touch the three power wires (blue, red and black) on the other edge of the board, because they do not interfere with anything.
We pull the lower part of the body up a centimeter by one and a half or two. It is convenient to rest your thumbs on the metal bottom, and with the rest of your fingers to pull the edges of the case up.
Now you can remove the silver face and pull out the ribbon cable with a large white connector.
We put the multicooker aside.
Put a silver face on the towel - face down.
We unscrew and take out 7 screws, remove and put aside the panel that they hold.
We take pictures, pull out the cables of the cable from the clips on the case, move the large connector from the board to the side, put the cable aside.
We pull out the small connector in the same side.
Unscrew and remove the three screws holding the controller case.
We remove the plastic case with the controller, passing the cable of wires going down somewhere and the connector into the hole from which they once got out. We put the case with the controller aside.
Gently squeeze out the rubber mounts of the tweeter with tweezers from bottom to top (this is better than pulling from above!). The squeaker hangs on the wires.
Unscrew and remove the two screws holding the knob board.
Gently pull on the board with the knob, pulling the shaft out of the "OK" knob.
YOU DID IT!!! The board with the knob is in your hands.
The face can be handed over to enthusiastic family members for a major wash. While you are soldering, it will just dry up. At the same time, it is advisable to carefully disengage the latches, separate the front panel from the silver case (in this case, the "OK" handle will be released just like that, effortlessly, bonus) and remove the "Cancel" button.
Solder the old knob. The holes in the PCB are large; if you do not spare the flux, the solder will easily collect in the braid and the knob will literally fall out of the board. If anything - search the net for instructions on using the braid ("solder wick how to use").
If there is no new knob, we disassemble and clean the old one:
- With a cotton swab dipped in acetone, wash off the flux from the body and contacts of the knob so as not to stain its insides,
- Gently bend 4 legs holding the lower part;
- Separate the lower part;
- We slightly bend the flexible contacts "down" towards the removed case. We tightly wrap a little cotton wool on a toothpick, moisten it in acetone and wipe the contact arcs on flexible contacts;
- We slightly bend the flexible contacts towards the center (ALWAYS A LITTLE!), So that their contact arcs begin to walk along the not yet worn out radii of the fixed contacts;
- Only if there is a new grease! old grease from the stationary contact plate on the removed housing; change the cotton wool on a toothpick, moisten it in acetone and wipe the stationary contact plate; We wrap a little fresh cotton wool on a toothpick and apply a very thin layer of grease to the fixed contacts.
- Putting the knob as it was.
We solder the knob into the board.
We wash the board with acetone to remove the flux residues.
We collect the "alien" in the reverse order of disassembly. When installing rubber bushings, pay attention - there is a ledge on the plastic; this protrusion should fit into the recess in the bushing.

The reason for the defect: the flexible contacts sawed through the coating of the fixed contacts to the base (if they took it apart, they saw that copper glows in some places). It would be nothing, copper also conducts current, but the sawn-off edges cause "bounce" when the rotary encoder is rotated. Bouncing is multiple short-term contact closings / openings. This is normal; bounce is always present in mechanical contact groups. But only at the edge of the contact, when opening / closing. The controller program is written to suppress (ignore) this bounce. And with wear, bounce occurs constantly, with any movement of the contact. And the controller, ignoring the bounce, also ignores the edge of the contact - that is, it does not perceive the useful signal. In the process of the bulkhead, I (and you, I hope) transferred the contacts to a non-worn area. But sooner or later it will wear out too. So the knob will have to be changed sometime. MECHANICAL WEAR. Simply washing-cleaning-lubricating the factory-installed knob will never work.

No defects, usually manifested in electronic blocks over time (oxidation of tracks, swollen electrolytic capacitors, etc.), were not found in my multicooker. Despite the fact that for 4 and a half years she has been cocked to a delayed morning start almost every evening.

Nice casserole.

Please tell me how to cook bread in a multicooker pressure cooker Mulinex cook4me I really want the kids to bake

[Anna 1990]

Anna 1990: Tell me, can you bake bread in this model?

[EagleB3]

EagleB3,
Thanks for the advice! Also began to scroll, as patience runs out, we will replace.

This morning, after many years of use, it started in Life browning test mode. First it was heated, at the top the temperature of 160 ° was displayed, at the bottom the percentage ran. It reached 100% and the timer was displayed and the countdown began in ascending order with a difference per minute. It's a pity I didn't take a picture. The shutdowns did not lead to anything. I quickly started searching the internet. I came across a solution to a problem with an error, I don't remember the number. In short, with the multicooker turned off, I pressed the return button and turned on the multicooker without releasing the button. The screen already asked whether to continue the test process or exit. I pressed exit and the multicooker started as usual.
I don't know what it was. Maybe someone met?

[Martina @]

Take to the company. The mule is my second pressure cooker after the deshman unit. I got a boo with standard sores - the twist slows down a little (I gave it a good shackle on the asphalt on the way, the bag with the sc was hanging on the bicycle handlebars, it broke and it rolled ... I thought because of this, but that's how it is!) And the bowl, though new in appearance, but after the first soup I was surprised to find the cabbage stuck to the bottom.
I don't use recipes yet, I'm too lazy to delve into it.

Question. Watching a video of our mule and related tefal. The girl cooks borscht from raw chicken on the fast cooking mode for 5 minutes.
True, before installing the program, the girl fry meat and vegetables for 10 minutes. And still it is unrealistic little. My chicken broth was boiled for 35 minutes and the chicken was athletic, added another 15 minutes, it turned out well. What's the focus?



Martina @, covered the bowl with Teflon? As a result?
How were the pens removed?
We have such a service, but the handles need to be removed, and they are riveted.
I didn't find a new cup, but you can find a new mule for the price of a cup

How were the pens removed?
We have such a service, but the handles need to be removed, and they are riveted.
I didn't find a new cup, but you can find a new mule for the price of a cup
[/ quote]
Remove the transparent purple caps on the handles and unscrew the handles themselves. (They are removable)

[busia]

busia, Thank you! I thought so, I was afraid to spoil it.
I swore on the bowl in vain, the porridge did not stick at all and was cooked deliciously ... I cooked hercules on the unit every morning, but it did not boil well (on white rice, 7 minutes).

Girls, help me cook semolina porridge! The most common, milk-based, two adult portions. The son asks very much.

I tried to cook according to a universal recipe for pressure cookers: 30 g semolina, 240 ml of milk, 80 ml of water, 2 minutes for a quick + 10 minutes heating. Kashka came out lumpy and empty. I mixed it with a blender and it seems edible, but compared to oatmeal, a C with a minus. Hercules mule cooks inimitable.

And in response, silence, everyone went to the front

Made meats with red beans. 1. In the frying mode I really didn’t like the smell, it’s very straightforward - is that so for everyone? It smelled like overheated industrial oil or heated plastic. 2. The beans were raw in 30 minutes on quick cooking, added 15 minutes, not enough, in the end they stewed for more than an hour and still a bit aldente. The meat is the softest.

Are there any alternatives to the home steamer? I don't have a set, the unit's steamer falls through (there the native bowl has a special side). The microwave stand is large in size.