Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002

Yes. I have no upper stopper. Alas.
Will seek.

Uraaaaaa !!!! Finally, I repaired my Mulya =)))) Dear members of the forum, and even more Murmansk and residents of the Murmansk region, I finally found where you can make a fluoroplastic bushing (instead of an oil seal) for our bakery. So who needs it - contact !!! Issue price 400 rubles for two bushings. But first things first.
1) I decided on the type of repair thanks to the forum - it was necessary to replace the oil seal.
2) I decided, again relying on the experience of the members of the forum, that I would remove the oil seal by drilling the rivets and completely disassembling the unit with the rivets in place when assembling stainless screws.
3) I started drilling - everything turned out to be quite simple: a drill, a drill with a diameter smaller than the rivet itself and accuracy.



4) It turned out a separate bucket and ...



... other parts: frame with shaft and bearing assemblies.

5) Disassembled the shafts and all the insides in detail.

started from the left shaft from top to bottom: a metal washer that presses the gland to the bed when they are connected, and a fluoroplastic washer - probably has a protective function so that the gland itself does not directly contact the bread (products)

then he took out the oil seal itself

and looked at what was left of it - inside it was all broken, chewed up and sludge ... in the same place you can see the remainder of the lock washer, which should keep the shaft from longitudinal movement and a thin fluoroplastic washer, which should protect the oil seal from friction against the lock washer.

for clarity, the last two split
took up the right shaft and did the same. Even though the shaft did not fall out on it, the condition of its oil seal and lock washer were similar.

6) I bought it in a hardware store:

new lock washers

stainless screws with nuts and washers

7) I was looking for a long time, but I could not find a suitable oil seal in Murmansk ... I bought suitable inner and outer diameters in one place, but black and flat, it was not clear what temperature the upper metal ring was designed for did not sit tightly, and the upper fluoroplastic ring generally dangled inside ... So I decided if I did it, it was good right away !!!
8) Fate brought me together with a turner, who turned me new fluoroplastic bushings, which sit on the shaft in an interference fit and are pressed into the bed. For comparison, I give it with the old oil seal.

9) Now you could start assembling:
since a lot of time has passed, I restored the shaft assembly in memory

that's how he was ...

... so it should be.

together with the frame and bowl, this chain looks like this.

10) Lubricated the shafts with grease (silicone-fluoroplastic) and inserted them into the bed

put on a lock washer on top

and put it in a seat on the shaft.

11) Put new bushings on the shafts

and pressed them into the bed (in the photo, only the left sleeve is pressed in so far)

12) Put on the top metal ring


and threw the bed over the bowl.

13) I put the screws into the holes left after the rivets and tightened them with nuts.


Although the screws are long, they do not affect the mixing process (already checked)

14) So it turned out to repair the bucket - so we will have delicious bread again =))))

What I sincerely wish you too !!!!
Thank you very much to the forum for your help and experience !!!!

Everything is fine, but why so much work? I just picked out the old seals. I cleaned the places and put new second-layer ones. And he did not disassemble or drill anything.

I said from the very beginning that I did not need to disassemble the entire bucket, the oil seals change without complete disassembly, this is logically evident, because the rivets are coated with a non-stick compound, which means the oil seal was installed at the factory after installing the rivets, and the shaft assembly is disassembled from the lower stopper, but it probably seems more convenient for someone to remove tonsils through the anus

One question is only: how to remove the metal rings through the bowl, which stand in front of the oil seal?

One question is only: how to remove the metal rings through the bowl, which stand in front of the oil seal?

Remove the oil seal, then pull the shaft up (inside the bucket), for this remove the lower shaft stopper and the impeller for which the shaft rotates, the upper stopper remains on the shaft.
Reassembly in reverse order: insert the shaft with the upper stopper into the hole, press on the oil seal from above, assemble the shaft. All.

Look at the photo - this method is not possible on this bread maker for the simple reason that the shaft with a stopper (upper), an oil seal, a fluoroplastic upper washer and a metal upper ring are clamped in the space between the bowl and the bed. If you pull on the shaft from the side of the bowl, then it will rest against the oil seal with a lock washer, which, as a result, into a metal ring, and it with its shoulder into the bowl. This is logical - otherwise the oil seal would simply not fix anything from above and it would fall out into the bowl !! The meaning of the design is lost. Although it may be different for you? Throw off the photo - let's think it over.

Somehow, the photo quote did not work out - I ask you to count the previous quote as a message =)))

Peace be with you bakers!

🔗

[vic58]

vic58, I understood where the legs are growing - after all, the shaft fell out along with the bushing - I have the bushings left in place, only the oil seal failed. Even in your sketch, you can see that through the bowl there is a metal ring (it is not drawn), and even more so the gland cannot be removed - the diameter of the hole in the bowl is less than the outer diameter of the ring and the gland.

Even on your sketch it is clear that through the bowl there is a metal ring (it is not drawn), and even more so the oil seal cannot be removed

everything is removed, you just need to make an effort, all the oil seals are removed with effort, because they are seals.
Once again, think about how it is going to be produced. Obviously, the gland and the cap on the gland are installed, or rather pressed onto the fully assembled bucket, the riveted coating is proof of this.
Well, if you still need proof, I installed the oil seal without disassembling the bucket, everything was installed and worked perfectly.
And the fact that the sleeve fell out is a little different. Later I fixed the sleeve with screws screwed into the bucket body (frame).

[shade]

Looked at photos from shade, and realized that the gland can really be pressed from above through the bowl due to the elasticity of the gland material, but how do they then put this metal cap on the gland in production? unclear...

[vanex]

vanex, Happy New Year. Interested in your method of repairing the bucket, replacing with new bushings, please give an address for ordering bushings (moulinex B05) 2 pcs. - 400 rubles.

[0867oleg]

0867oleg, Thank you!!!! And Happy New Year to you !! I ordered them in the workshop of a shipyard in Snezhnogorsk (I live nearby). After the holidays I will order a couple more for myself for the future - because after trial operation in the bread / cake mode, every day something has proven itself excellent. I can order for you too!

Thanks for your feedback. I would be grateful if you provide such a service,

Instead of bushings in the bucket, I put needle roller bearings of types NK081412, NK081414, 942/8, NK101412, NK101414. The shaft was sharpening a new one. Instead of an upper stopper on the shaft, he sharpened a collar with a diameter of 14 mm and a thickness of 2 mm. For lubrication, I used Smar TF thermal paste (SILIKON + TEFLON -40 do + 400gradC). For lubrication in the bottom, I drilled a hole from the bottom, cut the M5 thread and installed an oiler with a ball under the gun. Lubricate carefully so as not to push out the oil seal. Install NK series needle bearings ... and you will forget about this problem. For the seventh year now, everything works for me with daily baking without problems. There is no backlash at all and the oil seal is not produced. Lubricated with Teflon last time two years ago. By the way, the engine drive also had to be converted to needle bearings - there is the same problem - the bushing and the shaft are eating out. I had to sharpen a new shaft for bearing NK121818. It has been working for two years without any problems. There is no backlash at all. In general, with the help of needle bearings, I managed to achieve long-term reliable operation of the bread machine.

Ignat please tell me what type of bucket you have, such as shade or vanex, because I have one like vanex and I understand that the upper metal washer goes over the edges of the bucket from the inside and if I knock out the shaft from the inside towards the oil seal then I I can bend a bucket with a washer, but oh, how do you not want to ??? YES to the bucket I dokolupalsa after the engine burned out apparently he had to turn tightly the wedged shafts.

Peace be with you bakers!
Yeah, with such prices, you will definitely have to sharpen-rivet
Now I looked at a bucket from 1300 to 2200 rubles, and stirrers for 300-400 rubles.

You need to drill three aluminum rivets and the bucket will be taken apart. It is impossible to knock out the shaft - there is an annular key on the shaft under the stuffing box. It is often erased and the shaft falls down. Instead, I sharpened a bead on the shaft. Shaft diameter fit under the bearing without play. Shaft sharpened from stainless steel and heated on a blowtorch in oil. I removed the bad bushing and installed the bearings using a long screw with a nut and bushings by squeezing out while screwing the nut onto the bolt. I do not advise knocking out - you can damage the aluminum glass. During subsequent assembly, the rivets can be replaced with screws and nuts made of stainless steel or bronze.

[vanex]

vanex,

carved me new fluoroplastic bushings

Good day. Can you tell me the dimensions of the new oil seals / bushings?
It's time for me to turn to the turner

Hello! The bread maker has stopped kneading the dough, clicks but does not knead, what could be the problem?

If you remove the bucket, do the shafts rotate? If not, check the engine, most likely for replacement

Unfortunately, if you remove the bucket, it does not rotate. So you can say goodbye?

clicks but does not knead, what could be the problem?

Severina, can you hear the sound of the engine? And where does it click? By the way, what kind of stove do you have?

Mulka looks like this

A friend bought herself, used it a couple of times and abandoned it, gave it to me, I use very little, but the warranty period has passed. HP GRAETZ, I understand that the quality is shit, but there is no other one yet. Yes, I can hear the sound of the motor, but as if with a pause.

If you hear that the engine is running, it pleases. It is necessary to open the stove from below and look at all the kinematics transmitting the rotation of the motor shaft to the mixers. Most likely, something jumped off. Can you figure it out yourself?

I'll try, there is no other way out, it may turn out to be established. Thank you for your advice.

Hello dear bakers and masters! In my Binatone BM 2068 bread maker, the shaft retaining ring in the bucket must have scattered. The shaft fell out and this happened during the operation of the stove, because it was discovered already when I pulled out the bucket. And before that, the oil seal did not leak at all. Tell me, is it really possible at all, in this bucket, to replace the retaining ring, without completely disassembling the bucket, without drilling the rivets? Can the PTFE bushing be pulled up without damaging the oil seal? Afraid to ruin ...

[SergeiK]

SergeiK, Without drilling rivets and replacing the oil seal, no way. As a rule, the stopper breaks down from burning out the lubricant and undercutting the oil seal. Yes, there is not a sleeve, but just a PTFE protective ring.

[sazalexter]

sazalexter - Thanks for the answer! Dispelled my doubts ... We will, then, drill ...

Maybe I will ask an amateurish question - as a retaining ring, can, for example, use a spring washer?

If you have a grover, try trying it on to fit the groove first.
2. Even if you insert it, it can! work as a milling cutter, milling the end face with a hardened edge.

The washer is not a shortage, but if you cannot find it, then try to pick up a hardened plate in thickness and use files to process a hole and cut a groove.

The very edge - cut a regular washer with a hacksaw and crimp it into the groove of the shaft. But it won't last long.

The shaft fell out and this happened during the operation of the stove, because it was discovered already when I pulled out the bucket.

It was the same with my stove, the retaining ring crumbled and the seal developed.I did not repair it, since the second bucket was ordered, but for several months I used the old bucket - when installing it in the oven, I held the shaft so that it would not fall through, and then it had nowhere to go. I put all the ingredients in a bucket already installed in the oven. So you can still bake until you find the right ring.

[sid2857]

sid2857 Thank you! I will try...

Alim Thank you! But with my oven, that won't work ...

1. Now, when installing the bucket in the bakery, the shaft drops lower than yours and the kneading spatula, the base rests against the bottom of the bucket. The photo shows how the surface was sanded on the base of the blade - the non-stick coating was torn off. This happened just in the last use of the stove. The same goes around the hole at the bottom of the bucket ... Installing a fluoroplastic washer between the base of the blade and the bottom of the bucket will not save - see item 2 ...

2. The bucket now leaks when you insert the shaft and put on the paddle, even if it is just standing on the table. I suspect that the oil seal is already damaged, or it was compressed with something to seal ...

The same problem.

Almost five years have passed since the first post on the installation of thermal rubber oil seals.

Moreover, for their installation, riveting was not required.

Surprisingly, the bucket still works on these seals.

Are these oil seals made to order in St. Petersburg?

Are these oil seals made to order in St. Petersburg?

The first page contains data on the firm. People have probably changed.
I came there with my drawing, when I was CNC machined.
From time to time, the rubber got puffy and began to work as a guide.
I posted the drawing in the post.

I have a bucket from the OW502330 stove, will such an oil seal fit?

[Dear forum users,]

Dear forum users,

Once again, I will be glad to share my positive experience of repair and contribute to the common piggy bank of knowledge.

Five years of experience using a machined fluoroelastomer (FPM) seal has shown the consistency of the repair method chosen. However, the recent knocking on the rotation units indicated wear on the plain bearings.

In fact, having a new bucket, it would be possible not to bother with repairs, but it became interesting how much it could work.

The unit has several "weak points" - a weak oil seal and an upper thrust washer.
My first experience with jam immediately led to the stirrer wedge, which means he skipped the syrup and at the high temperature the caramelized sugar "welded" the shaft.
Well, in this situation, the "gray" steel of the upper washer corrodes and will wear off, the shaft will go down, the mixer will rub against the bottom of the bucket.
The short bushing of the bearing will quickly break and beat off the assembly.

Having drilled out the rivets and disassembled the bucket, I was convinced that it was so - wear on the sliding pair and a completely worn out upper washer.

The design of the first version of the seal is quite efficient, but it was designed for installation without disassembling the bucket and had a "bottleneck" - a short collar, which over time worn out and the gland popped out a couple of times. True, after installation, it worked as if it had never happened.

After parsing and measuring previously inaccessible places, a new version was born and was manufactured in the same place as the first oil seal five years ago - in the ROST company.

It took a few seconds to make one set, not counting the minutes of data entry into the CNC machine.

To be honest, it’s so great to watch a drawing turn into a perfect detail before your very eyes.

It looks like this:
Here is the machine itself.



And this is a rough process.



Repair kit.



And my ready "combat" bucket.





The bucket was assembled very quickly, all landings were verified at the manufacturing stage. M5x10 screws were used (although M6x10 could also be used, slightly grinding the top of the cap on a grinder or grinder to reduce the cross-shaped notch). Drilling out of rivets was well described by a colleague (see above).

I wanted to put a couple of different FPM materials and silicone, but due to the increased gaps, at the last minute I settled on the old material.

In the second bucket, over time, I will put fluoroplastic for rare regimes with sweet, since the fluoroplastic absolutely does not tolerate beats and “flows”.

As a result, the landings were changed towards an increase in tightness, the rotation remained light, the sound completely disappeared. What was required to receive.

For residents of St. Petersburg - the company "ROST" is located at the Kirov plant. Manager - Alexey Gushchin.
He completely owns the question. An excellent specialist with vast experience. I recommend for any non-standard tasks with chiseled rubber goods. The only thing that is required is an understanding of what needs to be made and what dimensions are needed.

Good luck everyone!

A defect was found.
One of the shoulder blades in Moulinex rubs against the bottom of the bucket. It touches near the sealing sleeve.
Already rubbed Teflon to metal. It is harmful. What to do?
Maybe someone has an extra bucket?

Good day! better take it to the workshop and do not bother, they will repair it there (it's still cheaper than buying a new one). We once repaired our stove here 🔗... There was also a problem with the bucket + oil seal. It still works.