Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002

[So, in the picture:]

So, in the picture:

above - a torn spring from the oil seal

below - washer, lower stopper and upper stopper

below - shaft. Right - top.

Assembly:

insert the upper stopper into the slot in the middle of the shaft and press it into place.

We insert the shaft from above into the bucket. We hold the shaft, turn the bucket over.

Insert the washer, then the half-coupling, then click the upper stopper.

It is easy to put on if the slot is parallel to the antennae. With a little effort, we snap in and turn the stopper on the shaft 90 degrees.

The spring is a reminder not to knock out the shaft from below. The oil seal breaks.

Good luck !!!

After a short operation, I lost fluoroplasm. sleeve.
Something she's bad there. I will be thinking about something again ...

[Makhno]

Respected Makhno,

try:

A

1) disassemble the node
2) check separately the fit (tightness) in the shaft and p / w
3) if the oil seal is loose, then we deform it a little, compressing it in the direction of the axis of symmetry. I don't know the grade of fluoroplastic (they are different), but the outer diameter should increase slightly in a slightly barrel-like manner
the diameter should preferably be measured with a micrometer
if the axle is hard to turn, it must be reamed.
Can be subdivided if you cannot find a suitable drill.
It is possible from both sides with the leading part of the sweep

B the most recent and reliable option

1) we drill 3 rivets
2) we re-sharpen the oil seal "in place" with a guaranteed good tightness (press), having previously made several longitudinal slots in the bucket with a file to compensate for the torque
3) we collect.

If you have any questions about fastening, write. Let's think about it.

But be sure to try the first way

Good luck !!!

One trouble does not come to the house. Today the washer, which was mentioned above, is rotten.
The oil seal unfortunately could not pull out without tearing it.
The first PTFE bushing works less. From my observations .... if you press it well, then it will last a very long time. It was ground for me to fit the size of the rubber sleeve, so it turned out to be too high. Which led to the loss. But with that I resolved the issue.
I am interested in a company or a phone company that will make a fluoroplastic sleeve like on Mouli OW3000 pressed.
I'm waiting for help

I have the same problem. I gave my bucket to experienced engineers. They have been thinking for a month already. Everything was disassembled / picked out. They are sharpening something. They promise to return it in a finished form the other day. There is only one conclusion - the buckets are made with the expectation that no one will repair them, but only buy.

There is a firm "Economos-Ukraine", Kiev. Sealing elements, including small ones, are performed. An exact drawing is required, or the bucket itself ... BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Such things cannot be done from fluoroplastic !!!!! When heated, fluoroplastic emits extremely toxic substances that are life-threatening !!!!!!
There is fluoroplastic-4 used in the food industry .. but its use in a bucket is very ambiguous ... but what will the sleeve be made of ...
if interested, read ... 🔗

I think I'll have to buy a new bucket .. My retaining ring is worn out, the shaft is falling out of the bucket. I asked the service how much it would cost to repair the bucket, they don’t know, because they didn’t do it, but diagnostics means just an inspection of the bucket !! will cost 250 rubles, + repair. I thought I'd better buy a new one for 1200. In the meantime, she herself tried to remove the oil seal, but it is holding on tight, I was afraid to break it, I left it as it is .. and while I use it .. So that the shaft does not fall through, I put a nut of a suitable size under it, maybe someone will come in handy with such a temporary option. For two months I have been baking bread every day, without a timer.

[Teen_tinka]

Teen_tinka Don't scare people! What do you think your HP bucket is covered with?
And what are the pans and pans covered with for most users? Correctly with Teflon, and this is fluoroplastic 🔗Fluoroplastic

I ask you not to confuse just fluoroplastic and the fluoroplastic-4 compound (English analogue of Teflon). Porosto fluoroplastic is not intended for any food purposes, only fluoroplastic-4. And if you order a product made of fluoroplastic, you can get in trouble accordingly.

Dear forum users!

Don't argue. You are all right.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, Teflon or fluoroplast-4 (-C2F4-) n is a polymer of tetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

Teflon® is a registered trademark of DuPont Corporation. The non-proprietary name of the substance is "polytetrafluoroethylene" or "fluoropolymer".

🔗]

The Teflon surface area is important to us. The larger it is, the greater the emission of toxic products. From this point of view, the bucket itself is more potentially dangerous. From what and where the coating is made, we do not know.

At least no more harmful than fast-acting yeast for ovens

We do not argue
It's just that if you are going to order something from fluoroplastic, you must indicate its brand ... 4, 40, 50, etc. And Teflon pans are also not recommended to be used for more than 2 years ..
Wikipedia is written by the same Internet users as we are, that is, no one is responsible for the truthfulness and authenticity of the information posted ...

Who knows where to get a thrust washer 8 * 10.
I can’t find anywhere ..... knowledgeable RESPONSE .. at least in which direction to go, to the car market or the radio market ..
Moulinex SHIT ... I'm rosy.
My friend has a Delongey stove .. it bakes every day for more than 3 years and everything is in order, and then 2 years have passed and that's it ...
AAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa ...

car service - at the locksmiths
hardware store
radio (market, repair, flea market) - there were a lot of them in old tape recorders

I called St. Petersburg about the bushings, they broke 700 rubles with delivery to Moscow.
The question is, is it expensive for 2 bushings?
On the first page, the price was indicated 160 rubles per piece.

By the way ... I found a thrust washer at the market. Uncle traded bolts, screws, washers, etc.

[PS]

I called St. Petersburg about the bushings, they broke 700 rubles with delivery to Moscow.

Try to contact Moscow
🔗
there is ICQ

PS

the other day I needed a rod with M10 thread made of plastic. Polyethylene was not suitable. I did not find the nearest stores. Spat. I cut 2 strips from 5mm orgashka. Glued. I removed the chamfers with a file. Pinched in a drill. Refined. Chopped. 20 minutes.

What is it for.

I would remove the rivets. I inserted fluoroplate from the inside. I would have carved it with a drill. Then I pulled off the nickel / chrome screws.

About fluoroplastics. The total impact of this plug per year is equal to the impact of 1 sausage sandwich eaten.

The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing. But then the buzz - I! did it !!!

Or shaman what is available.

The road will be mastered by the walking one.

I have no doubt that you will definitely succeed.

Good luck !!!

And they know about these oil seals, do they have such?
The situation is this ... My friend lives in Moscow, but he needs to put everything on the shelves competently in the technical language.
In St. Petersburg, payment was requested via a mobile phone, rather dumb as something
He called the phones that you posted on page 1.
In Moscow, do they have information or drawings for these cuffs ??

The answer is urgent ...
I have no IC, but I have SKYPE(karchevskiyserg)
So call-talk

Something difficult.

It can be seen a lot of time has passed.

Wouldn't confuse anything.

I had their files, but I can't find something yet. Looks like it crashed.

Maybe you will find ..

Maybe you will find ..

Yes .. by the way, where can you buy Ftoroplast - 4 for yourself? And then they sell everything in bulk.
And how to distinguish food grade fluoroplastic from ordinary?

[Additional Information:]

Yes .. by the way, where can you buy Ftoroplast - 4 for yourself? And then they sell everything in bulk.
And how to distinguish food grade fluoroplastic from ordinary?

I talked with specialists in F4 - factory workers

🔗

1) Low grade have black dots
2) Any food is suitable for food, but the melting point matters for us (F-4 is higher)
3) F-4 - white; F-3-yellow

Additional Information:

🔗
🔗

---------------------------
try in Poltava

🔗

🔗

[Conclusions:]

About my oil seal-

I noticed that the rubber became a little drier and the oil seal began to turn in the bucket itself.

It was made with a diameter of 17.4 cm and fit snugly.
So it needs to be done a little more.

But it works !!!

He fulfilled the task for his price 100%.

I don’t know how long it will work. I have a spare in stock.

I will finish it off and experiment on it.

I promise to share the results.

Conclusions:

Bucket restoration only has three meanings: cost, time and availability.

if you have minimal skills, tools, time and desire, then it is absolutely possible to do it yourself.

My decision was to ensure that the bread machine works at any cost during the New Year holidays. They were not on sale.

But she's still spinning !!!

If not for "Rost", then I would have carved a file on a drill (I wrote how).

If they jumped out anyway, in 15-20 minutes I would drill out the rivets and press the fluoroplate on the other side. And the collar would be tightened with screws. I would pick up the right ones and modify them on a drill. And if there is someone to hold the drill while you sharpen, then consider yourself having a cheap Chinese lathe!

Thanks for the extensive answer.
I was confused only by the toxicity of the material.
In our market I saw pure white, but there especially no one knows the brand, so I began to doubt
I agreed - at the factory, specialists will make me on a scientific machine. But what is the best way to press it from above or to drill out the rivets right away and do it thoroughly?
And as for the diameter, I measured my own oil seal, so it has a maximum edge of 19mm. Why do you have 17mm ........ kind of not enough

I have an outer diameter of the sleeve 17.4
collar 18.6

That's for sure. I checked it right now.

If you drill, then:

1) It is easier to catch the diameter "in place" during manufacture
2) Can be securely clamped by the collar.
3) There is a chance to make it even more reliable (I would like a photo with the bracket removed) - there is also silicone

In our post on page 3, there are pictures of oil seals from other bread makers.
It would be nice for us to know their sizes.
Maybe they came up with something.

As I understand it, except for us, no one needs it yet.

As I understand it, except for us, no one needs it yet.

Dear Makhno, you are right as always.
This is not a specialized repair site.

Not everyone has the opportunity to do research and development.

Or maybe the buckets don't break. So Mulka rules!

I am grateful to the members of the forum (a separate low bow to Admin !!!) for the invaluable experience and tried to contribute my own 5 kopecks too.

I follow the topic. Write. I will be glad to help as much as I can.

[sid2857]

And if there is someone to hold the drill while you sharpen, then consider yourself having a cheap Chinese lathe!

sid2857, zachem derzhat daragoy ...
And what are the clamps for? Every artisan should have them. I fasten with clamps, drill to the table, tightly and sharpen everything on the little things. It's safer this way, otherwise they won't hold back ...

I am also a jack of all trades, at home I repair everything myself, but the stove has not yet broken.

As I understand it, no one else needs it except you and me.

Sooner or later, many may need it. But the bulk of the users of this forum are our lovely ladies, for whom the words "drill with a drill" cause some rejection. But now, thanks to the presence of a couple of enthusiasts who have safely repaired their buckets, everyone has a reasonable alternative "we need money for a new bread maker (bucket)" in the form of "look how other husbands are doing it" ...

Peace be with you bakers!
Makhno, if people do not write this does not mean that they do not read, pay attention to how many views on the topic (Read 9372 times)

[Jefry]

Jefry That's it. All the lovely ladies living on this forum have brainy and skillful men, rest assured, the information has already got into smart heads and signed up for the subcortex. Just in case

I read about the work done.
Here is a drawing of a modified PTFE bushing. Slightly resized, but it sits like a glove.

Congratulations!!!

Judging by the groove, it was pressed in from above.

The support lengthened. Service life too.

Is it handmade or turning?
How was the pressing process (effort)?

Sent: 30 May 2010, 21:11:12
Quote
Jefry That's it. All the lovely ladies who live on this forum have brainy and skillful men, rest assured, the information has already hit smart heads and signed up for the subcortex. Just in case

Not everyone,
For example, I read this and other repair topics on our forum and am very grateful to all the MASTERS who share their experience and advice.
Although I have a different stove, but you never know it will suddenly come in handy, especially since in our house it is me, not my husband, who is engaged in repairing and adjusting household appliances, minor fixing everything and hammering nails (he has a different talent - but he sews masterfully on a typewriter, although I have not studied this anywhere, maybe he works in a different field)
So for me such topics are very much needed.

And my experience in repairing the window of a bread machine can be viewed here, suddenly someone will be useful.
^{https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...=1596.0}

... in our house I am engaged in the repair and adjustment of household appliances, minor repairs and hammering of nails ...

Our person! Well done!

[sid2857]

sid2857
Thank you very much, it is doubly pleasant to receive praise from the Master.

What great fellows that have developed this topic. One agitator jammed a year ago, I changed the bucket in the service for 2 months. The other day, the same problem again, I wanted to take it to the service, but I will ask my husband to lubricate the VD, maybe he will, by the way, when we received a completely new, unused bucket, the husband noticed that one of the mixers was walking tight. Maybe they have all the buckets with marriage ??
Not so long ago I had a new problem, on some programs, I noticed on a cupcake, 20-30 minutes before the end of the program, HP starts beeping continuously, while the program continues to work. This "bzyk" is absolutely unpredictable. It works fine, then it beeps. Since my warranty runs out in September, I think "let it break." She closed all the doors so that the neighbors would not come running. HP squeaked for about 30 minutes, while the program was finished and the cake was baked. Is it worth raising this topic in the service, so as not to make it worse.

[verner]

verner Of course you need to contact the service. The defect will not disappear by itself.
Replacement of the controller board is clearly required. After the guarantee, it will cost up to 2/3 of the HP cost!

Maybe THIS will help you?



If not:

1) A call to the service with a question (maybe this is a known glitch)
2) Disassemble (sensor contacts, non-propay, power electrolytes. It looks like a glitch in the analog part)

[Put this:]

I strongly advise you to put protection against voltage surges.

When racing, the program can go astray and the electronics can burn out.

I almost got into such a mess myself. I live in St. Petersburg. A month ago, a couple of rats short-circuited the electrical panel in the basement. At first, the voltage was about 70 volts (the lamps were barely burning). Then 320 volts briefly. But those who did not turn off their electrical appliances burned out a lot of equipment.

Put this:



I highly recommend reading to anyone interested:

The electricians said it could be even worse. Many devices (office equipment, computers) work in "sleep" mode, that is, the electronics are not physically disconnected. The same for external power supplies for phones (all unplugged ones have burned out).

My squeak in HP is definitely not connected with a voltage drop. Since I have a whirlpool washing machine and refrigerator, we have such a thing as the Barrier (the master warned immediately). I turned on the HP through the barrier, while it started beeping on the screen, the voltage jumped, but in the region of 225-234W, the HP (I looked) indicated (210-240).
I ruled out this option right away, maybe not right. A Barrier. By the way, they got it when the washing machine broke down.

It is necessary to put a stabilizer on the whole apartment, as I did, not a single light bulb has even burned out in a year. like this.

Maybe THIS will help you?

On which site did you get this sign. I need a complete batch schedule. Do you have?

Repair and Service magazine No. 9 2009
But there is not much in the article.

[Sashun]

I almost missed the latest information on the forum Repair of the form (bucket) of the LG bread machine
"Reply # 47: 13 April 2010, 09:55:23"
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=59.40
Sashun
a link to a piggy bank so as not to get lost
REFERENCE
1. Small bucket cuff. Shaft inner diameter 8mm, cuff outer diameter 22mm, height 7mm;
2. Bearing 608Z or 608-2Z. Inner diameter 8mm, outer diameter 22mm, height 7mm.
It's on the LG 151.

[sazalexter]

sazalexter , wow tiiiii! it’s not clear .... as another language says .... Noooooh .... Z-A-U-V-A-Z-A-L-AAAAA !!!

Useful article. It's a shame that I read it late.

My shaft fell out. I called the Service on the street. Rusakova - they said "We will repair it. Bring it." I drove up. We looked - "Nah, we won't take it. But there are new buckets."
Result: minus 1689 rubles. in the family budget, plus - Muli has a new bucket.

For lubrication in HozLabase, they suggested this:

Teflon grease PRESTO 217753 (400ml)

Multipurpose clear lubricant based on mineral oil and Teflon for automotive, domestic and industrial applications. Possesses excellent water-repellent properties. Reduces friction, wear, galling of metal and plastic mechanisms, and prevents the formation of corrosion. PH-neutral, silicone-free. Harmless to tires and rubber and plastic products. Resistant to weak acids, salts and alkalis. The working temperature range is from –50 to + 250ºС.

Is it worth using?

Firstly, it is a pig in a bag in terms of composition and effect

_

There is a good law "If neither" YES "nor" NO ", then" NO "".

This is dichlorvos with fluoroplastic.

Silicone is used in the food industry for a reason.

We have already written above as members of the forum.

I myself drove for high temperature Teflon with TF2 Teflon grease in front of me.

_

Better not take risks, this lubricant is very "volatile" plus a specific smell.

Hello! I ask you very much for help! I can say the new HP Moulinex 6002, it's only a month old. Yesterday some strange thing happened: during the kneading, one agitator flew off slightly bent the bottom and scratched in a circle, HP screamed very loudly at that time, the children were very frightened. I turned it off from the outlet, put the mixer back in place, and turned it back on, BUT: now the HP turns freely with the mixers only when it is empty. In the presence of food, the stirrers freeze and there is such a sound as if it is spinning idle. What do you advise? Go to the service or can you fix it yourself?

[ANNechka]

ANNechka Of course in the service, although there will most likely be "dynamite" saying that this is not a warranty case