sid2857
Yes, our experience is growing.

At one time, I tore the oil seal, trying to pull the shaft through the top. I had no manuals or other information.

Taking this opportunity, I want to thank the members of the forum for adding valuable information to our treasury of operating experience Mulka.

sazalexter
fine molybdenum disulfide with This carefully !!!! This harmful substance, if swallowed, can cause poisoning.
Ikra
Quote: Ikra

Thank you for identifying the main problem! Because the same thing happened to my bread maker. Attempts to buy a new bucket ended in failure - the model was discontinued, and no similar one was found.
The solution turned out to be quite simple: they unscrewed everything that could be unscrewed from the bucket, and heated the jammed place with a small gas burner of the "pencil" type. The sugar melted and burned, the shaft began to turn, at first it was rather tight, then everything was better and better. They smeared with olive oil ... and everything went like clockwork! We collected all the details, as it was and baked new bread!
This all came to my mind after reading your post, so many thanks to you! I hope that my experience will be useful to someone.

I want to once again draw attention to my experience of everyone who has a shaft jammed from caked sugar. I think this is the simplest solution. Parts oiled with olive oil still work great, I bake 1-2 times a week.
If we didn’t have a burner, I would take off the bucket and boil it in a pot of water until the sugar "epoxy" dissolves, then dry, grease and collect ...
vlek
qsazalexter
fine molybdenum disulfide with This carefully !!!! This harmful substance, if swallowed, can cause poisoning.
[/ quote]
1.Dyc after all from below and a little bit, and it seems like it is used in medicine, see.
2. [DOC]
Oil grade
shell-
File format: Microsoft Word
Medical Shell Ondina light oils 38.5.13. ... Semi-synthetic (finely dispersed) emulsions of the Shell Adrana family 45 ...... properties and molybdenum disulfideproviding shock resistance.
3. There was simply no other at hand.
sazalexter
vlek So what kind of lubricant did you use? Shell Ondina Medical or Shell Adrana Metal Processing
They are all quite low-temperature, maximum T * for Shell Ondina 941 (flash point in an open crucible 260 * C) Does the stirrer shaft "weld"? Paraffins will evaporate and there will be a wedge IMHO
vlek
sazalexter
vlek So towhat kind of lubricant used? Shell Ondina Medical or Shell Adrana Metal Processing

Himax
---=-------
They are all pretty low temperature, maximum Т * for Shell Ondina 941 (flash point in an open crucible 260 * С) Shaft stirrers not "welded"? Paraffins will evaporate and there will be a wedge IMHO

Temperature resistance from -185 ° C to +400 ° C, and in the oven there is not even 200, how will they be welded?
sazalexter
vlek I gave the data on the working temperature from the table that you gave, the maximum T * for Shell Ondina 941 (flash point in an open crucible 260 * C) is no 400 * C and it cannot be for mineral oil! Otherwise, copiers did not use silicone oil at $ 38 per 20 grams. And they would use "penny" "mineral water".
vasya
Hello! Can you tell me the shaft of the Moulinex SS-185950 bucket can I knock out? or do you need to ream rivets?
sazalexter
Quote: vasya

Hello! Can you tell me the shaft of the Moulinex SS-185950 bucket can I knock out? or do you need to ream rivets?
Read the thread carefully! This is a bucket of a new modification, it seems to me that the Teflon gland (ring) will be damaged without drilling.
vasya
Quote: sazalexter

Read the thread carefully!it seems to me without drilling, the Teflon gland (ring) will be damaged.
I, too, like YOU, did not find out exactly.
and all the same thanks.
vlek
sazalexter
vlek I gave the data on the working temperature from the table that you gave, the maximum T * for Shell Ondina 941 (flash point in an open crucible 260 * C) no 400 * C and it cannot bet for mineral oil! Otherwise, copiers did not use silicone oil at $ 38 per 20 grams. And they would use "penny" "mineral water".
Himax did not google the link to his own, so he took the data from the general link for all sprays (there were numbers from 250 to 350), but the main thing is not this, but the experience gained, namely, with a wedge, you can and should start fighting from below, but for this, in principle, you can use any similar means (only after wedging the shaft, you need to let them dry, so as not to disturb, not to squeeze out the factory latch).
Conclusion - from the very beginning of operation, you must first measure out the oil and bury a couple of drops of it in the groove of the mixers (raise and lower them a little so that the oil moves more easily along the shaft to the oil seal, and in this case, the sugar syrup will already squeeze the oil into the oil seal) while we measure the remaining ingredients on bread. Several loaves of so-called. already done, the stove is threshing like "young" (or maybe even better - impressions).
A separate question - all the problems (two wedges + the mixer flew off) were associated with one shaft. My trough is always strictly oriented in the stove (it is marked where the front part is) - we can therefore bear the whole load on it, choosing the slack between the mating fur. nodes, and from this, accordingly, all his problems? or defect t. c. from "birth"?

It is interesting to hear the opinion of those who inserted the trough, not paying attention to its orientation, and there were similar problems (by the wedge).
puel
Hello!
The rubber seal of the bucket has come to an end, it has already crumbled. For two years the oven worked without a retaining ring, but with such a torn rubber product it is already scary to bake something. There are two options: buy a new bucket or fix it.
If you repair a bucket, then as I understand it, you need to make a new fluoroplastic bushing, and then the bucket will work without an oil seal ... this branch has instructions for repair.
If you buy a bucket, tell me, there are two buckets on the scan, with orange rubber (like mine) and with a white gland (another, similar model). Buying with rubber is not a hunt, but please tell me if the bucket from Moulinex OW3000 fits MoulinexOW2000 ??

Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002 Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002
sazalexter
puel here is the answer to your question https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=98527.0 buckets of Mulinex 2000 and 3000 are NOT interchangeable, they are different.
Although there ...

Quote: Astra 79

Good evening, bakers! Accidentally stumbled upon this topic and I want to answer everyone interested in this question - buckets from moulinex 2000 and 3000 are absolutely and completely interchangeable (I emphasize on the last phrase). In order not to be unfounded, I will explain: I have 2000 and once the same defect came to light (by the way, about the reason - this happens after cooking the jam, at least for me) I also did not find the gland and decided to replace the entire bucket by visual comparison ( there was such an opportunity) found out the above. The difference lies only in the diameter of the shaft, the shape of the agitator, the structure and material of the stuffing box and the length of the drive rocker (it is shorter, but it is quite enough for coupling). Having such a bucket, it has been working for half a year. Peace to all!
puel
Good day.
The epic continues .. The bucket was dismantled, we are trying to repair it ..
An oil seal was found at the bazaar, a man-seller said what exactly was for a bread machine, but for some reason the rubber was white. Checked, it fits .... but packed .. and the label is self-printed, one hope that the seals were taken in bulk and then packed themselves.
Found fluoroplastic and caprolon. The husband says that the sleeve will be better from caprolon? I googled that fluoroplastic can be different, not only food, and even pipes are made of it, tell me, maybe I shouldn't worry ?? The first photo is a fluoroplastic blank.

Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002
sazalexter
puel Caprolon will not work. Melting point is 220-225 ° C. Only fluoroplastic or silicone. Put the one that you bought.
puel
Finally, we eat delicious bread, I missed it in 1.5 months.
Everything works, I have already tried it, it turned out that everything was not so difficult with the repair .. And now the pin does not fall out, as before, the bucket is almost like new ..
Issue price: 200 rubles - oil seal + 50 rubles.grind 2 fluoroplastic bushings at the turner. Only with stainless steel screws an ambush, all bazaars and shops have passed - there are none. While we are looking for the usual ones.
.
vfr777
Easy repair of a jammed bucket agitator. We put the bucket with the jammed side on the pancake of the electric stove and heat the bucket of the bread machine to the operating temperature (well, or until reddening begins). We remove, using protective equipment so as not to burn ourselves and turn the mixer by hand. The principle is used: "They knock out a wedge with a wedge"
Ikra
vfr777, a good solution There, the main thing is to burn out or soften the "epoxy" formed from sugar, which most often wins the mixer. And then lubricate properly.
vfr777
Quote: Ikra

vfr777, a good solution There, the main thing is to burn out or soften the "epoxy" formed from sugar, which most often wins the mixer. And then lubricate properly.
I thought for three days!
sid2857
The stove runs on two homemade oil seals. Shaft jammed yesterday. Usually I scroll it with a plumber, but today it didn't help. I got out of the position with an end-piece x8. I inserted an insert from duralumin under the slot and turned it. Which I advise you too. Everything is working.
Good luck!
Fields
🔗
Manufacturing of oil seals.
Perhaps this address has already been given, but ....
megaalex58
Quote: sid2857

I'm glad for the member of the forum that our notes helped him.

I recommend pouring through the oil seal only if you know how it works and "feel" the material. Otherwise, there is a great risk of spoiling.

I will add my own way.

After hot soaking with a toothbrush, clean the neck of the shaft in the area of ​​the gland seal.

If it is jammed, turn it with sliding plumbing tongs. The main thing is to clamp it securely so as not to rip the slot.

We do not turn for the half-coupling, we will rip the frail joint. For the stirrer - too.

Remove the washer and half-coupling from below. We rotate the shaft with the bucket turned upside down and pour silicone oil (read above) into the slide bearing clearance.

Long enough if the oil is viscous.

Good luck!
Reasonable advice, thanks! But how is it easier to fix the axis (Moulinex OW-2000) so that it does not fall down, otherwise the mixer flies off the axis. I misunderstood what the mixer axis is fixed on.
sid2857
At the very beginning of the post there are pictures of the disassembled node.
Approximately in the middle of the shaft there is a groove for the washer (see answer # 36).
It is she who rests against the end of the sliding p / w in the bucket and "holds" the shaft, not allowing it to shift along the axis.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to replace a broken washer without drilling out the rivets.

valeros
Quote: sazalexter

puel here is the answer to your question https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=98527.0 buckets of Mulinex 2000 and 3000 are NOT interchangeable, they are different.
Although there ...
Please, tell me, the buckets OW502330 and SS-186157 original OW5000, OW6000 of MOULINEX bread makers are interchangeable ???
With gratitude, Valery.
Funker
As I understand, in this thread studied the influence of the order of laying on the quality of bread. I am also interested in the issue with the failure of the buckets at Mulinex. In my family, they bake often (twice a day, 750) and the buckets start to deteriorate after 3-4 months - they leak and, which is especially unpleasant, dark muck may end up in the bread itself in the area of ​​the mixer. I thought that starting with dry foods could extend the life of the bucket. Is it so?

I think the income from the sales of buckets of this company is comparable to the income from the sales of the HPs themselves. In the future, I am going to switch to Panasonic.

sazalexter
At the moment, there is neither confirmation nor refutation of this theory. Just Panasonic's gland design is completely different and is used only in Panasonic.
Funker
Quote: sazalexter

At the moment, there is neither confirmation nor refutation of this theory. Just Panasonic's gland design is completely different and is used only in Panasonic.
Judging by the price of the buckets (almost 4 times more expensive than that of Mulinex) and, most importantly, the reviews, this design is noticeably better.
Ignat
Try to replace the bushings in the buckets of bread makers with needle roller bearings of the NK08407-08414, 942/8 or NK101407-101414 types.If you cannot purchase a wide bearing, you can supply 2 narrow ones (for example, if you need NK08414, you can supply two pieces of NK08407) I do not know the exact dimensions of the bushing in your bread makers, but in Kenwoods I installed bearings of these types instead of bushings and the bread makers still work, and the seals in them do not break as the backlash of the shaft with a roller bearing is insignificant and they serve much longer than the bushings. With a large shaft development, you will have to grind a new one. The weak point on the shaft is the upper split pin washer - it is erased and flies out, the shaft begins to fall out of the bucket, can break the bushing or damage the oil seal. Therefore, in the new shafts, instead of a groove for this washer, I sharpened a collar with a diameter of 14 mm and a thickness of about 2 mm (it should not reach the oil seal). The grease used high-temperature silicone-teflon type SMAR TF with a maximum temperature of + 260-400 degrees C. The higher the temperature, the better. It is not worth using lithol and salidol - it burns and starts to slow down the bearing and it will fail much earlier. If there is room in the bottom of the bearing assembly, install a ball lubricator to fill the bearing with grease with a gun. The grease is thick and it is necessary to preheat the bucket in the fast baking mode by setting it upside down through the oil can. Apparently, the manufacturers of all bread makers do not want their products to serve us for a long time and the most important unit is made of poor quality.
vic58
The Mulinex bread maker reminded me of our brand car, in principle, you can drive, but something breaks all the time, not so long ago I wrote that the crust stopped baking and electronics repair was required https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=1433.new#new, now the bucket is broken.
In order: after the next baking, I take out a bucket and the mixer drive axle falls out into my hands. And not the axis itself, but with a bushing in which this axis should rotate.
Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002,
and this is where she fell out from
Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002
The axle with the bushing was sintered so that the drive turned the pressed-in bushing in the cast frame, accordingly broke the seat and fell out. The oil seal was also damaged. Therefore, a new oil seal was urgently bought. It was not difficult to dismantle the damaged one, given the absence of the bushing, a couple of blows to the guide, which was rested against the seal ring, and it flew out.
Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002
I really didn't want to disassemble the bucket in the part of the frame fastening (rivets), so the oil seal was pressed through the hole in the bottom of the bucket, not to say that the whole operation went smoothly, but everything fell into place.
Finally, a sketch of the node.
Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002
vic58
Quote: sid2857


It is she who rests against the end of the sliding p / w in the bucket and "holds" the shaft, not allowing it to shift along the axis.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to replace a broken washer without drilling out the rivets.
It is quite possible remove the lower circlip, remove the oil seal, remove the shaft.
Reassembly in reverse order with pressing the gland into the seat.
I think that it is assembled in production in this sequence, no one separates the bucket from the frame for this.
For clarity, see the sketch from the previous post.
igoryok
Quote: vic58

It is quite possible remove the lower circlip, remove the oil seal, remove the shaft.
Reassembly in reverse order with pressing the gland into the seat.
I think that it is assembled in production in this sequence, no one separates the bucket from the frame for this.
For clarity, see the sketch from the previous post.
Hello!
I didn't understand the sketch a little.)))
what about an iron shiny cap on the oil seal?
it is not clear how to get it out of the bucket?
vic58
Quote: Igor


what about an iron shiny cap on the oil seal?
it is not clear how to get it out of the bucket?
removed together with the oil seal

I did not show the lid on the sketch, it is an auxiliary part, it did not work to put it back, it works without a lid, there are no problems.
My new oil seal has an outer diameter of the upper ring larger than my own, so there is simply nowhere to put the cap, it does not fit on the oil seal.
Mar_k
So we had a repair! The truth cost a little pain.After a month of use, one agitator stopped spinning, lubricant flowed. The husband disassembled, that is, he took off everything that can be removed without serious effort, and sprinkled the WD-40 for a day, stood, periodically twisted the shaft, and then sprayed it with silicone grease, stood for the night, and in the morning they drove out to idle on a short program and that's it! Agitators are now very easy to work!
vic58
Quote: Mar_k

The truth cost a little pain.
The cause of sticking is the penetration of moisture along the surface of the shaft as a result of destruction, wear, or poor quality of the stuffing box.
Most likely, this will happen more often further, I would prepare oil seals for replacement ...
sazalexter
And I would change the bucket under warranty, if it does not help, then the whole HP
vic58
Quote: sazalexter

And I would change the bucket under warranty, if it does not help, then the whole HP
maybe so, but personally I do not want to contact service workers, wait for months for their expertise, etc., and be without HP, to which they are already accustomed, so I repair ...
sid2857
At one time, I replaced the bucket under warranty, but I asked the service workers not to take the bucket, but to leave it to me for experiments.
I milled several oil seals with external dimensions such that it was possible to insert the oil seal without disassembling the structure.
And the bucket worked. Then another native oil seal broke, I replaced it too.
And everything works absolutely without problems!
The idea turned out to be successful, because to the natural oil seal, the fit to the shaft goes along one line, and I had several internal grooves conceived, and the fit was obtained on several cylindrical surfaces (due to the greater width than that of the native oil seal).
The oil seals, of course, are a bit dry, but they work!

For the future, in stores where hardware is sold, I looked at coated fasteners, I will drill out rivets and put the purchased screws.
The slots don't bother me.
And I will make new oil seals with larger outer dimensions.

PS
Members of the forum, thank you all for supporting the topic.

Please, who disassembled these new white oil seals, take a larger picture of them separately from this metal insert.
And yet, who sells silicone oil seals for our Mulka, what material are they from - silicone or rubber?
vic58
Quote: sid2857

I will drill out the rivets and install the purchased screws.
So I still don't understand why you are separating the bucket from the frame, everything can be removed and installed without drilling rivets. I did this for myself, and as I wrote earlier, I think that the manufacturer, apparently, does.
sid2857
I now have a bucket of former red oil seals. The problem started when the shaft jammed. I, knocking out the shaft from below, just tore the oil seal. I did not try to pull out the gland reinforced inside through the top.

The material of my chiseled oil seals is quite dense, but it dries out over time. And I just want to fit new seals into the old bucket tighter. Just interested in the experiment, how long it will last.
Moreover, there is exactly the same new with red oil seals. Without bothering, I would just push the silicone into the socket. And they can be torn.

But! Dear members of the forum, I certainly do not claim that this is the most correct way.

If things are simpler in buckets with white seals, there is no need to do extra work separating the bucket from the cast block.

There are many professionals on the forum, and of course, there are still ways to repair our Mulka.

Which I am very happy about.

Mar_k
Quote: sazalexter

And I would change the bucket under warranty, if it does not help, then the whole HP
I did not think at all about exchanging a bucket or a stove, since the stove bakes without prejudging in all respects everything worked out the first time, she is my first. Although purchased with a guarantee "Exchange without problems", they are immediately exchanged in the store and you do not need to take them to the service. Today another mixer was treated in the same way - it works excellently, better than when purchased. How long it takes, we'll see, if it doesn't help, we'll exchange the bucket.
michael_amk
Good day,

Also recently bought Moulinex OW5024. I immediately noticed that the shafts in the bath wedge. Of course, I design them before cooking. But apparently you need to be puzzled by spare parts.The dimensions of the gland are 8x19x7 - right? Please tell me the dimensions of the sleeve bearing (I want to order from fluoroplastic or pick up a needle bearing), and the dimensions of the shaft (preferably a drawing, of course).

Thank you in advance.
vic58
Quote: michael_amk

I immediately noticed that the shafts in the bath wedge.
well, lubricate them and they will last a long time
michael_amk
The problem is that after almost every use of HP, the shafts start to spin tight. I would like to immediately put good oil seals and bearing. In addition, it is quite problematic to drive silicone grease into the sliding section through the gap.
Shouldn't the oil seal be oiled? In technical applications, they are usually packed with grease. But what about here in the food industry? Even if you want to lubricate the gland, it will not work, there is a steel cap on top of the gland with a white fluoroplastic ring.
sazalexter
michael_amk Do not worry about guarantees yet, read the entire branch and the neighboring Kenwood branch, good luck!
vic58
Quote: michael_amk

In technical applications, they are usually packed with grease.
You are confusing something, the oil seals ensure tightness, do not allow liquids to seep through the drive shafts, and they are never stuffed with grease.
I lubricated the shaft with engine oil from the outside, normal flight for 5-7 baked goods and no smell or anything
michael_amk
Oil seals must be lubricated. Otherwise, due to dry friction, the oil seal will quickly wear out. Believe me, I have installed more than one oil seal and saw how they quickly lose their tightness when working in dirty and not lubricated conditions. Although it is possible when working in liquids, lubrication is not needed.
dili1979
Tell me please!!!!!! Bread maker Bork X500. Something began to knock during kneading! I revised everything and realized that it was because of this dowel on which they put the shoulder blade. I touched it, it staggers !!!! The stove was bought no more than a month ago! I'm afraid it will fly at all !!! Answer who knows, pliz !!!
sazalexter
dili1979 Under warranty to the store or service.
zexxuz
Tell me please. Glands covered - mulinex 500230 bread maker. the size of the oil seals is 8 * 19 * 5.5 \ 7. Only the size 8 * 19 * 8 is on sale. Who knows if they will fit? thank you in advance
wingio
Hello, and I have a bucket from OW 6002, I read the article, an oil seal like the author of this topic may suit me, that is, type R 04, I checked the company, I did not find this size 🔗 and
The thing is that my shaft failed at all 🔗 , I did not understand in the middle how it is attached, I wound a small wire and now it holds on a little, but the water leaks and I think it is possible because of the oil seal?
🔗

What holds the shaft in the shaft seat and why is there a slot in the middle where I wound the wire? In general, can replacing the oil seal help?
Thank you in advance

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