Panasonic Bread Makers Problems and Breakdowns

The strange thing is that everything looks almost new, it was not used, but the bucket is inserted very easily, without tension and fixation.
In this case, the antennae do not reach the end of the slot when turning. Can the slope be sharpened with a file?

There is no hard commit. The bucket is simply locked in the inclined grooves due to clockwise rotation of the drive. If you file something, then the bucket will stand crookedly relative to the heating element. Over time, the duralumin casting of these parts is worn out and the bucket goes deeper into these grooves.
But about the spring, very interesting. Where is she? I have disassembled the stove a couple of times and have not seen any adjusting springs.

[pick up]

But about the spring, very interesting. Where is she?

I confused a little, you need a spring pick up fit and paste
I can't insert the link according to the rules of the forum ... in YouTube the video is called - Panasonic bread maker bucket backlash. There's the first post:

Backlash is bad, because it is noisy and shock loads, from which the mounts on the bucket can break.
The solution is very simple, pick up a large diameter spring, one and a half turns and insert it between the bucket and the bread maker, I have been using this solution for almost two years, the rumble has disappeared and there are no problems ..

It would be necessary to ask him why he took the spring, I think all stove owners will come in handy sooner or later.

Edited by a moderator and added the mentioned video

Please tell me how to eliminate backlash

Almost all HP Panasonic have bucket play, more or less. A slight backlash is even the norm in Panasonic.
In addition to backlash, there are cases that the bucket dangles a lot, knocks and squeaks during mixing. In some cases, turning the bucket 180 degrees helps, try it. And if the reversal solves the problem, then you can simply make a mark on the bucket so that you insert it correctly every time so that it does not dangle or rattle too much.
It is clear, of course, that this is not a serious option for those who like to do everything seriously and thoroughly, but "if a ballpoint pen does not write in zero gravity, you can write with a pencil." Many people are comfortable with simple problem solving

... Please tell me how to eliminate the backlash ...

For the duration of the kneading, I insert a suitable piece of molding (left after repair) between the bucket and the body, so that there is a little interference. Naturally, I remove it before baking.

greased with food grade silicone grease Huskey lvi-50.

Do you have any opinion on this lubricant? Or is this the first application experience? This lubricant is not cheap, and the maximum temperature of use is only 160 degrees, if I'm not mistaken. Why did you not use the universal silicone grease Silicot 30g, which can be bought without any problems in Moscow and whose maximum temperature is 230 degrees?

Try to contact and find out about the delivery with the Intercom-NN office. Here it is

Thanks for the advice-contacted-installed-my assistant is working. CLASS !!!!!!!

Thanks for the advice-contacted-installed-my assistant is working. CLASS !!!!!!!

I am very happy for you and your assistant! Tell us how long you waited for the spare part and how much the shipment cost, maybe it will be useful to someone. Well, if it's not a secret.

Do you have any opinion on this lubricant?

Bought 4 years ago to lubricate rubber gaskets in plumbing (food grade grease).
I took a 400ml tube, it seems, so that it will last for a lifetime
The grease has increased adhesion and is therefore very sticky and thick to the touch.
In plain bearings with low speed (bread maker), the grinder gearbox, especially the "Chinese" one with plastic gears, etc. fits perfectly,
when scrolling, it remains between the teeth of the gears without squeezing out completely.
The plus is that, due to the density, it can help the plain bearing to work without changing for some time (or maybe always).
I am far from a professional, but I think that it’s a necessary thing in everyday life.
Not having another at hand, I recently lubricated the computer's power supply cooler (sleeve). The month works without noise.

the maximum temperature of use is only 160 degrees

Thank you very much for paying attention, I will re-coat another HVS-100 there until 299. (I also ordered it earlier).
But the HVS-100 is thicker, I think it will spin tight. And I don't want to spend money on Silicot again, and the reviews on it are bad, in practice it corrodes the rubber, but here the oil seal can corrode ...

You can try it anyway. The foam remains from the packaging

This is one of the most expensive bread makers that should "automate" the baking process. And when inserting foam you have to follow
to have time to pull it out before turning on the heating element.
At first, I also decided to find a thermo-silicone to fix the bucket (you can take a couple of silicone molds for baking and cut to size), but this is not the case ...
I believe that Panasonic did not modify this unit, or deliberately shortened the service life by developing guide slots in "soft duralumin".
For myself, I decided to try on the weekend to strengthen the upper wall of the groove with a thin metal plate. Thus, the thickness of the plate will allow the bucket to be pressed more tightly. If it doesn't work out with the plates, I will try to fix the springs to the body, which will pull the bucket down from both sides.
A comrade has a similar model for a long time, and he also dangles (in the sense of a bucket), that is, many have a problem, but someone is used to it, but someone is already satisfied with it.

[Konstantin]

Konstantin, there was an earlier conversation about plates
Whoever has the opportunity even performed on program machines, but still the collective farm will
Strong output will appear; it is easier to buy a separate unit, it costs a little more than a thousand

HVS-100 is thicker, I think it will rotate hard. And I don't want to spend money on Silicot again, and the reviews on it are bad

Thank you. Now looking for a universal grease for household appliances and other uses. So far I have "laid eyes" on the HUSKEY 775 FMG GREASE, because of its adequate price, temperature range -15 ... + 280 g and food tolerance. However, I continue to search further.

Panasonic did not modify this unit, or deliberately shortened the service life by developing guide grooves in "soft duralumin".

I agree, this whole node is very frail. Due to the fact that the HP engine works in jerks, then at the moments of its start a strong blow occurs in the bucket engagement unit, as well as the shaft on the blade. Thus, a development appears in the inclined grooves and the bucket begins to dangle / rattle, and the edge is jammed on the drive shaft.

[CrenDel]

CrenDel, Useful information on lubricants and more https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=36855.0 https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=32099.0 I myself prefer Dow Corning Molykote HP-300, due to availability. Scope of application: bearings and guides of ovens, sealing and packaging equipment in the food industry (NSF H1 approval). There is no direct contact with foodstuffs of lubricated units in the HP, the temperature of the units does not exceed 240 * С

[85g costs 850r]

prefer Dow Corning Molykote HP-300 due to availability

It's a little expensive though, well, the specialists on the copier forum write that 90% of fakes are on sale, everyone has a different color and consistency.
Maybe you should try the EFELE SG-394? 10gr. syringe (original packaging and not packaged by someone from a bucket) ~ 500r. Manufactured in Russia from imported components.
I took myself a tube of HUSKEY HVS-100 85gr for 800 rubles in 2015. and a tube HUSKEY LVI-50 397 gr for 1300.
Clarified, now HVS-100 85g costs 850r... probably the cheapest imported version at 299 degrees.
For example Huskey PF-27 up to 302 degrees (28.4gr) - 2675r. !!!
It remains to protest. I'll grease it on the weekend.
Tell me, how easily should the bucket rocker turn?
With the LVI-50, it is no longer free, with interference. And with the HVS-100 it will probably be even tighter.

EFELE SG-394 10gr. syringe ~ 500r

Interestingly, this manufacturer has an anti-seize paste with food approval NSF H1 EFELE MP-491 (dispenser 15 g), with an operating range of up to +1400 degrees and costs only 138 rubles. But this is only in the capital.

Tell me, how easily should the bucket rocker turn?

Immediately after the purchase of HP, this unit rotated a little, but the engine is quite powerful and designed for greater loads than some kind of thick grease, which is just a drop.Personally, I have an idea to completely modify this unit, replacing the original washers with fluoroplastic F-4 washers.

It's a little expensive though, well, the specialists on the copier forum write that 90% of fakes are on sale, everyone has a different color and consistency.

In the states, you can order through Ebey, 10 grams around 2000 r will be obtained with delivery

The rotation mechanism in the form of panasonik sd2501 is jammed. I filled it with hot water and managed to turn it over after a while.
I can't figure out how to get to the oil seal and remove it
On the reverse side, I took off the retaining ring, which is a figovinu under the ring immediately, and something like 2 washers. Further, the shaft is in the sleeve. I could not take it off. I suspect you need to remove the oil seal from the back side first. While gently dripping oil between the bushing and the shaft. Twisted it manually. It seems like it is now developed and rotates freely. But I think you need to change the oil seal. Only I can not understand how to take it out correctly

If the oil seal does not leak, why change it?
And the rule when removing is always one, first the shaft then the bearing-oil seal, when installing, on the contrary, first the bearing-oil seal, then the shaft

But I think you need to change the oil seal. Only I can not understand how to take it out correctly

Correctly write, no need to change the oil seal. Disassemble, clean, lubricate and assemble everything. So as not to jam the shaft again - pour liquid ingredients last and turn the shaft after baking while it is still warm

tell pzhl how to disassemble it
From the side of the photographed I did not think of how to make out
and on the reverse side I removed a couple of parts and did not understand how to pull the shaft out

tell pzhl how to disassemble it
from the side of the photographed I did not think of how to make out
and on the back side I removed a couple of parts and did not understand how to pull the shaft

I took apart a couple of times, knocking out the shaft from below with a piece of wood. A shaft with a lock washer and an aluminum sleeve with an oil seal, in which a round stainless steel spring is located, emerge from the body. I can post a photo tomorrow, if necessary.

knocking out the shaft from below with a piece of wood

I would not do this if you want to put this oil seal back (it may break).
Below are four slots through which the oil seal is visible. With a 2mm drill, I drilled holes in the center of each slot so that the light metal body of the gland was visible.
Then he took a nail (30-40mm long), inserted it with a hat to the gland body through the drilled holes and with light blows (knocked with side cutters on the tip of the nail) knocked out the oil seal on each of the four sides. Absolutely not damaged.
Disassembled already 2 times a week. The oil seal is intact. During installation, the oil seal housing was lubricated so that it sat down softer and did not let water through the walls.
Above I wrote that I lubricated the lvi-50 (it turned out to be wrong with the boundary temperature of the lubricant) today I lubricated the Huskey HVS-100. Works great.
He reinforced the guide grooves with thin stainless steel, fixing it with small screws (he cut the threads into duralumin with them) and put it on the black thermo-sealant DonDil (up to 375 degrees).
So that the bucket does not dangle, I applied the same sealant with a strip in a circle in the bowl, wound 1 layer of cling film on the bottom of the bucket so that it would not stick, put it in the bowl, turned it into the grooves (so that it pressed down, thereby squeezing the shape under itself in the sealant) and I put it on a battery to dry the sealant overnight.
The point is to make a cushioning pad between the bucket and the bowl.
In the afternoon, I removed the bucket from the bowl, the sealant dried out, but turned out to be very delicate (it may still harden). The sealant had to be smeared more ... It turned out not very nice, but oh well ...
I collected everything, turned it on and OH MIRACLE - complete silence does not rattle and does not shake !!! Time was well spent.
The first bread was baked.
It is a pity that the photo cannot be posted directly to the forum (it would be clearer)

tell pzhl how to disassemble it
from the side of the photographed I did not think of how to make out
and on the back side I removed a couple of parts and did not understand how to pull the shaft

You will disassemble, please remember the order of installing the washers, there are three of them. One is thicker than the other two. I'm worried that I could not assemble it correctly ...

And yes, .... I advise you to buy a Huskey HVS-100 tube lubricant for 850r - this is a freebie relative to others !!!
And I would not take from weighers in syringes or nouname cans. I ordered myself with the delivery of the transport company (though I did not take it alone). I don’t write the store, maybe they will be banned for advertising?

Can you tell me how to turn off the yeast dispenser in 2502? I cannot understand how the cover is disassembled

[Dimonn]

Dimonn, We have a separate topic for replacing the oil seal. https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=402685.0 only you don't need to change it, disassemble it, clean it, lubricate it inside, slightly align the black washer making it flatter, assemble, use.

Tell me how to turn off the yeast dispenser in 2502? I can't understand how the cover is disassembled.

Why disable?
Lift the lid vertically, insert the slotted screwdriver into the groove (slot) between the lid and the body, press slightly in turn on each side.
The cover will come off. It's more convenient to disassemble further.
Unscrew the screws and pry off the metal plate carefully around the perimeter (thin, may bend). Like everything, I did not have any questions during disassembly.
You can turn the stove over, unscrew one screw (self-tapping screw) from the back on the stove body, pry the plastic cover with a screwdriver. Under it there will be two solenoids (coil) with pushers, one for the yeast dispenser, the second, like a nut dispenser. You can barbarously bite off the wires from an unnecessary solenoid ... it's better not to remove them, I fell out, I was tortured to put it back, there are very delicate springs. Dropped out because he unscrewed without turning the stove over.

Why disable?

It knocks loudly when it bakes early in the morning.

It knocks loudly when it bakes early in the morning.

I think this is a raisin / nut dispenser. It has a large lid, it can pop.
And for yeast, I would not turn it off, how else to bake, immediately pour into flour?
You can really be puzzled and bring three switches to the case - 1 to turn on the stove, and two to dispensers to turn it on if needed.
I planned for myself to build on / off the stove (with illumination as on extension cords), so as not to pull from the outlet.

Yeast can be sprinkled on the bottom. Then flour, then liquid and butter. For more than 5 years I have been baking this way and, like many, I think a yeast dispenser is needed only to increase the price of a bread machine. Just do not immediately about the fact that the water will flow to the yeast. Flour blocks all the cracks. Is there a bank? Put a spoonful of sugar on the bottom, and on top a layer of flour that is about 5 centimeters (like in a bucket of a bread machine) and pour in water. Yes, even a bucket. And watch through the glass ... for two days. Water will not leak. So don't worry, everything will be fine.
And a dispenser, like any piece of iron, may one day not work (there were such cases and they wrote about them here) and you will be left without bread. Anything happens on a long bread maker's journey. I forgot to fill in water once.

Good luck to you!

the raisin / nut dispenser opens only in certain programs, and the yeast dispenser is always open for all programs. Only yeast must be turned off, and which must be left for additives. Here it is necessary.

Good people, tell me, what is the difference between the temperature sensors in the SD-ZB2502BXC and SD-2501WTS? In the service manuals on the diagrams, the designation is the same, in the detailing in the first ADA11E165, in the second ADA11E166. In Kiev, there is only the latter. Are they interchangeable or not, otherwise the price bites?

[Sergei]

Sergei, it seems that no one has come across this. Otherwise, they would answer. You live in Kiev. There is probably a service center. Call, describe the situation and I am sure they will help you.
In St. Petersburg I applied for another reason. Broke the humidifier water tank. He crashed from the height of the table to the floor.A container of water in bounce, and the base itself is not clear whether it works or not. I called and told. They said on the phone what to do: what to lift, where to pour a spoonful of water. It works! Such a fountain has worn out! I think that your situation is simpler, clarify the difference. And having joked on the Internet, I found that for SD-ZB2502BXC the temperature sensor ADA11E166 does not fit.

🔗

Scrolling down to see the compatibility table.
Good luck to you!

ATP for the answer. Yes, I also saw the compatibility chart, but! As an engineer for the automation of food production, who has worked with thermometers and regulators all my life, it is terribly interesting to me to understand how these sensors differ in bread makers that have absolutely the same electrical circuits! And it is strange that in Kiev, and throughout Ukraine, there is no mention of ADA11E165

In St. Petersburg too! Have not found. Yandex too. It remains to go to the manufacturer's website and ask a question there. Suddenly they will answer. They could be removed from production, replacing the 166s. And their fastening may differ, however, as well as the parameters of the temperature sensors.

Sergey, call the service center and the manufacturer, be persistent. Ask to connect with technical support, service engineer, and in the internet there is a lot of information on the left, the compatibility tables do not indicate complete data. I have selected additional discs and attachments more than once contrary to the compatibility tables. If there is no direct prohibition, then anything is possible. We need to check.
In the service, sometimes they answer formally, they can try to kick off, then to which operator or specialist they will transfer. Be persistent.

Hello everybody,
The panasonic 2502 bread maker lost power. I checked the capacitor - the capacity is within an error of 2.9 microfarads.
But there was a new cbb1 3mkfx450v available, its capacity is exactly 3 uf. Replaced, did not help. The bread maker is 3 years old.

[kstandrey]

kstandrey, Check if the paddle in the bucket and the bucket drive rotate easily.

The blade mechanism lubricated immediately, when a problem arose, the rotation is free. It looks like the engine is covered. The resistance of the windings is blue wire + red wire 180 ohms, and on the Internet I read that the resistance between these wires should be 330-340 ohms.

Replaced the electric motor. The bread maker is working. The resistance between the red and blue wire is 323 ohm for the new electric motor.

[hope-55]

hope-55, Could you please reset the ADE97A107 drawing if it is saved?

Hello everyone! I just baked bread on program 1 2512. At the beginning of the baking process, I smelled burning, as if the grill was working. Looked inside, like all the rules. After I took out the bread, I saw spots on the bottom of the stove itself, as if a bucket had leaked. I can't attach a photo, there is a link to it. Can this even be? And what to do

[Blissska]

BlissskaMost likely, when kneading, flour got on the shades and the bottom, hence the smell. This happens. Wipe with a rag more and more baking bread.

Yes, something I got excited))) the bucket itself is dry and everything is ok. Thank you))

My stove rumbles loudly when kneading, is it normal or maybe where you need to drip oil? tell me. who knows.

Not okay. Try to insert the bucket into the lock correctly. This is in the instructions.

I have had it for 3 years and has not rattled like that before, but for 4 months it rattles, and insert it as I know.

[Lorik13]

Lorik13, try to turn it on without a bucket, with a bucket, shoot a video ...

I'll try, but she rumbles when the dough interferes. I will rent a video.

How to disassemble the Sd-200 bread maker?

My stove rumbles loudly when kneading, is it normal or maybe where you need to drip oil? tell me who knows.

It is more likely that the bushing in the drive is worn out and the driven pulley touches the housing.

Need to carry for repair?

[Lorik13]

Lorik13, first do as suggested to you Palych, above. Run batch with bucket (EMPTY) and no bucket.

[Palych]

well, if you didn't change anything, but it rattled, then carry it. And if your flour is dry or you are researching a new recipe with a very dense batch, then the stove rattles due to the forced kneading of too tight dough.Or the stove is crooked, not horizontally. Maybe moved by accident.
Check the position and check on a very soft good kolobok. Stick your nose into the bucket and make sure that it's not the bun, which is too elastic and hits the bucket walls like a brick.
Check how Palych told you, the movement itself is without a bucket. Inside or outside it rumbles.

If everything is in order, but knocks, bring it to the service.