Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002

[ANNechka]

ANNechka,

1. I totally agree with sazalexter

2. Judging by the description, the agitator has risen on the shaft, under load a slot popped into it, the fit was deformed, the agitator tilted, scratched the bottom, wedged and blew the slots somewhere else.

If only one agitator is not working, then these are the splines of the gear shaft or the gears of the half-coupling on the gear side, the half-coupling on the side of the agitator or the agitator shaft and the agitator itself.

3. Probably not fix it yourself (you need tools and material and maybe machines) - and it is not necessary, these are not your problems.

4. The c / center will link

a) on a foreign body (a spoon or fork fell), - stand your ground.
b) viscous dough - it's not your problem to deal with the rheology (this is for viscous bodies) of the dough and nothing is said about this in the instructions. What is not forbidden is allowed

Hit society with ZPP and the court for compensation ...

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If possible, send photos to the forum for analysis.

[sazalexter]

sazalexter, sid2857 Thanks for the sympathy! Here is a photo, I did not notice anything special except a dent and a scratch
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This is a closer look at the back of the dent
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I'm ready for service in principle, but it's a pity to part with HP for a long time

Here's another similar post



But all this in the service will not be repaired quickly.

Demand an exchange.

it means that the slots are torn off somewhere

...

But all this in the service will not be repaired quickly.

Demand an exchange.

Thank you! They would have told me there why the slots were torn off, I didn’t interfere with the dough from nuts and nails Ordinary dough ... 2-3 tablespoons of flour were not even enough to reach the bun ...

And if you look at the mixer itself, what's inside it? slots torn off? throughout the depth? How many times I use mulik 5002, and now I have never seen anything like this, and I can’t understand how this is possible.

And if you look at the mixer itself, what's inside it? slots torn off? throughout the depth? How many times I use mulik 5002, and now I have never seen anything like this, and I can’t understand how this is possible.

The mixer itself is like new, and one and the second ... A piece of iron is like a piece of iron For some reason it seems to me that a hundred is not even in the bucket, but in the bread maker itself: something has broken inside - now it does not even interfere with the water, the mixers only spin if at all empty. On Saturday we'll take you to the service, it doesn't work before ... The service agreed to take it by phone only when we found out what was under warranty

Strange, then we are not talking about jamming, since the splines are in order.

I don't really understand ... or rather, I don't understand very much! just when there are products in the path of the mixers, then they do not spin (I'm talking about both!) if the products are removed, then everything is restored

I don't really understand ... or rather, I don't understand very much! just when there are products in the path of the mixers, then they do not spin (I'm talking about both!) if the products are removed, then everything is restored

I do not mean it. If you look through the hole, you can see that it is not round, is everything intact inside? metal is not ripped off?

I went and looked again - everything is intact

You won't see where it is ripped off.

The gearbox is closed with a casing (I gave a link above to a post from our forum with a photo of the gearbox and engine).

It took off, rather, where the greater moment is (this is the second gear after the engine).

or on the engine if the shaft is thin and the gear is soft.

In general, this must be dealt with completely. The question is about the type of protection against the wedge: current or torque on the shaft.

If anyone disassembled the gearbox, or there is other data, please inform.

You won't see where it is ripped off.

The gearbox is closed with a casing (I gave a link above to a post from our forum with a photo of the gearbox and engine).

It took off, rather, where the greater moment is (this is the second gear after the engine).

or on the engine if the shaft is thin and the gear is soft.

In general, this must be dealt with completely. The question is about the type of protection against the wedge: current or torque on the shaft.

If anyone disassembled the gearbox, or there is other data, please inform.

the conversation was not about what is not twisting now, but about how in general it could happen that the spatula damaged the bucket. The fact that now it does not spin is a consequence of the fact that, when jammed or a dynamic impact, part of the teeth of the gears was cut off, so if there is nothing in the bucket and the blades are spinning into the canvas, then by inertia they slip through this place, and if there is any dough, then in this place is stopped because the gears are slipping.
And I asked about the slots inside the mixers, the owner answered me that everything is ok in them and there is not even a hint of torn metal, this is strange, the blade was clearly skewed and jammed on the shaft, and there was no trace on it.
In general, we are waiting for a response from the author about the service center. What will they say there.

On Saturday we go to the service, but they immediately said that they would not do anything themselves - they would send them to the plant for examination, and then they would call, they said that they would wait up to 45 days (((

On Saturday we go to the service, but they immediately said that they would not do anything themselves - they would send them to the plant for examination, and then they would call, they said that they would wait up to 45 days (((

Well, this is not surprising, the case is not trivial.

So, I'm reporting! Today they took the stove, I told everything in the workshop, I read the piece of paper they gave me, the problem is described as follows: "the mixer fell off during operation and now, when the blades are loaded, they do not spin." It seems so. It was 2 hours ago. And now they call me from the workshop, they say, come, they fixed everything, replaced the bucket! We'll pick it up on Monday, they don't work today - it's city day after all!

Did they take you to Sovinservice? In general, they have recently begun to work quickly, in contrast to the m-video service, for example. I was a witness when a person brought a meat grinder with coiled gears and right at the reception he was asked to fix everything under warranty in 15-20 minutes. Will we finally wait for the service to work normally and 45-day expectations (and sometimes even more) will become a thing of the past? It is strange that only the bucket was replaced, in theory, the gears should have been. Most likely they just don't talk about it. If this is Sovinservice, be prepared for the fact that instead of the withdrawn warranty card you will be given your own white paper, printed on a printer, it will further serve as a warranty card, do not be alarmed, this is normal.

yeah, to Sovinservice on Rusakovskaya. Maybe not only the bucket was replaced, the girl who received the call to me, she already saw the finished work))) How glad I am !!!

I have already repaired my Moulinex 5004 in the service twice in 2 years. The husband offered to buy another HP. I read everything, I can not find the "golden mean". Can you tell me.

1) What broke down?

2) For reference

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I described the electronics problem on page 11, and the bucket was changed 2 times already. What happened to the electronics I will not say HP in the service, they did not take it away themselves, asked for a friend, then left for the seas, from the service, called that they had fixed it the other day, we will pick it up. Although it is strange, I am always unlucky when buying equipment, 2 employees have the same models, they took them at the same time, they never broke down. It still strains, I heard more than once that the Mulinex service does not repair the equipment not covered by the warranty, this is very strange. It scares me, what will I do with HP later, because 2 years of service are already expiring, if there are problems?

You do not quite understand correctly. A lot of equipment of various brands (depending on the type of equipment) are simply considered non-repairable, for example, no service will repair a HP bucket, they will change it under warranty, without a guarantee, you will have to buy for money. In Moulinex (HP), the motor, gears, etc.can be changed both under warranty and after. So it all depends not on the brand, but on the type of equipment and the nature of the malfunction.

So, I have not written you the most interesting yet))) Yesterday my husband brought the repaired HP, well, let me turn it on right away, the bucket is even more new! I did everything as it should be, I turn it on - and it didn't work before the service, and it doesn't work, only the bucket is new. Back to the service was taken

[and]

If food is available, the mixerand freeze and there is such a sound as if scrolling idle.

If "AND", then it's at the engine.

Here either new or "shamanized", planting on an adhesive base.

It can be seen that this is an uncharacteristic malfunction, since it was not checked under load.

When receiving, take two rubber bands, and, in an oven working without stirrers, sequentially clamp the shafts to create a load.

Here it will become clear how it was repaired.

After two years of operation, this type of bread maker stalled the knives. I started the renovation by drilling out the rivets in a bucket. And please pay attention that it is very difficult to remove whole oil seals from the shaft without drilling out the rivets. The gland is glued to the base with glue - once, during the period of operation, the remains of the products reliably clog its seat in the bucket - two, in my case one of the lock washers completely corroded and clogged the insides of the gland. From my point of view, the gland is more valuable than the teflon-coated rivets. Therefore, we drill out the rivets, carefully remove the oil seals and screws instead of the rivets.

Only new screws, or rivets, necessarily made of stainless steel, or titanium, because it will not be possible to coat them, ordinary ones will rust ...

[Description of the problem:]

Description of the problem:

After a year of operation, the effect of wedging the mixer shaft (only one!) Appeared, which I did not pay much attention to. Just started turning before use. But recently the shaft "jammed" tightly. The preliminary reason is sugar. Probably, the wedge is the consequences of caramelization (sugar "grabbed" with iron like epoxy).

Thank you for identifying the main problem! Because the same thing happened to my bread maker. Attempts to buy a new bucket ended in failure - the model was discontinued, and no similar one was found.
The solution turned out to be quite simple: they unscrewed everything that could be unscrewed from the bucket, and heated the jammed place with a small gas burner of the "pencil" type. The sugar melted and burned, the shaft began to turn, at first it was rather tight, then everything was better and better. They smeared with olive oil ... and everything went like clockwork! We collected all the details, as it was and baked new bread!
This all came to my mind after reading your post, so many thanks to you! I hope that my experience will be useful to someone.

I hope my experience is useful to someone.

So..
Recently, I also had to repair a bucket from Moulinex 5004 (with 2 mixers) - when removing the shaft, the oil seal broke (and it is difficult not to break it)
I called the office. service - oil seals are not sold separately, only a new bucket. Well, I think you need to invent something - make something out of something ...
In general, everything turned out to be much simpler. It turns out that there are such oil seals on the market! True, you don't really see them among them - I asked where to buy and they sent me to the right place.
This oil seal cost me UAH 15 (prblz $ 1.5-1.8), while the bucket cost UAH 340.

To put it, of course, is another problem: the locking edge interferes (and inside the gland there is a metal ring and you need to put it right with the shaft). In general, I cut this edge in 3 places. And he did it with difficulty.

You need to put it very carefully - so as not to tear the rubber and not to scratch the Teflon bucket with a jumped off screwdriver. I recommend using a plastic thread, without sharp edges (it can be used as a screwdriver tip on the tip).

After installing the stuffing box with the shaft, I dripped silicone grease onto the shaft (from the bottom!) And lubricated it by rotating the shaft.

.. And the first bread after the repair was fed to the neighbor's dog - after all, a little grease remained, no matter how you wipe it off

Please help or redirect to the right topic.The iron thing on the right broke off, and on the left it was about to fall off too. What is it fraught with? As I understand it, they held the bucket during the batch. Now it is easy to move it if I need to separate the dough or knead it by hand. Is it possible to make these things ourselves and from what, does the service do it. I don't have much hope for our service, I've come across it more than once. The warranty has expired. My husband can already grind some bushings, but I don't know with that yet. Do not look at its inner state in work every day. Outwardly, she is decent.

You can make such a detail yourself, if there is anything. You need something thin and resilient, like phosphor bronze. Cut with scissors for metal, drill holes for fastening and give the desired shape.

Thank you! My husband comes home from work, a puzzle.

I have a problem with what to make. there is no phosphorous bronze. We are trying to pick up the metal right up to the spatulas in the building store. Nothing fits yet. What can you get this bronze from? The second thing has already broken off, how does this threaten the bread maker?

IMHO, these "ears" did not allow the bucket to move up and to the sides. It may well be that it will work like that.

While working, but if I need to separate a little dough along the way, the bucket is instantly removed. Now I’m holding it. The main thing is that something more serious should not follow. This is my first bread maker that has worked for over a year. Before that, 3 !!!!! the bread makers were replaced with new ones during the warranty period. We don't have much choice, so we want to work.

Tell me, can anyone have encountered the problem that the shaft is generally removed from the bucket and it turns out that the gap between the shaft and the oil seal is simply huge (which is natural). as I understand it, it worked out its limiting spring or something else. who got out of this situation?

;) I had the same problem with the bucket. After 2 years of operation, I began to wedge the shaft of one mixer. At the beginning, a little and then even manually it was impossible to crank. I read the forum on this topic, I tried to apply VD-40, 2 days passed, I dripped on the shaft all the time and then tried to rotate it, but nothing helped. I already wanted to disassemble the shaft, as described on the forum, but then I got the idea to try to crank the shaft with a drill. I inserted the drill into the bucket and clamped the agitator shaft in the drill chuck, just be careful so that the chuck did not reach the bottom of the bucket, otherwise the coating could be damaged. I turned on the drill and the shaft began to rotate at a speed of 1500 rpm. min. Rotated for 20 seconds, while slightly deflecting the vertical axis. Then he removed the drill from the shaft. I tried, the shaft rotated easily with a finger behind the crosspiece, the same backlash appeared as on the other shaft and the whole problem was resolved in a minute. After that, I have baked bread several times already, everything is in order, the shaft rotates like new. Therefore, when the shaft is jammed, this seems to me the best way out, for other problems, you probably still have to disassemble the shaft.

Gentlemen, I understand that this thread is devoted to homemade products, but can someone tell me.

There is a SUPRA BMS-240 bread maker, it looks like it's a Moulinex clone.
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In the store, I tried on their bucket in Moulinex. Breaks in.
In Supra, they cannot say how much it costs (no one ordered, but they promise to deliver by separate order.), And whether it is suitable for Mulka.

Maybe someone has already made such a replacement for Mulka's native bucket with Suprovskoye?
Is it suitable?

So, we can say that the idea has passed the test.

An ABSOLUTELY non-standard product worked for two years 4 times a week on yeast-free dough.

But!

As far as I understand, Mulka puts other oil seals in new buckets. The size has changed. Who has the data - let's clarify together.

I wonder how much is a native oil seal?

We look:

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I cannot understand this logic yet. 500 rubles for an oil seal, and buckets with one and two oil seals cost the same.

The bucket initially contains a "bottleneck" - a weak link - the joint of the shaft and the half-coupling. This joint quickly "breaks" when overloaded with a highly viscous (dense) dough. And the gland is an appendage.

PS

According to the previous post - pour boiling water into a bucket and knead (for example, program No. 13). Pour 2 cm and when the rotation speed is constantly high, add boiling water. The caramelized sugar should dissolve.

Good luck everyone!!!

Here are more parts including the oil seal

[sazalexter]

sazalexter, thanks for the answer.

Hello.

Faced the same problem - the blades of the Moulinex OW5000 series stove began to stall. Which model I don't remember exactly, it doesn't matter, the one with 2 knives. In fact, the problem began a long time ago, only I did not immediately guess what was the reason and how to deal with it. The stove is more than 2 years old, maybe more than 3, I don't remember exactly. Apparently, due to jamming, 2 motors have already burned out: 1 was replaced in the service even after a year's warranty, and the second changed when the warranty was over, for its own money It's stupid, of course, but it has already happened. In fact, I noticed that the knives get jammed only after changing the 2nd motor. At first, they simply spun them by hand, but about a month ago one got stuck to death, the second began to turn extremely tightly. I just fixed it yesterday - it was not possible before, I was on a business trip.

I fixed it only thanks to the information in this thread. Many thanks to all! I also want to share my experience, maybe someone will come in handy. Methods "disassemble", "press out", "drill" were dismissed at once, or rather left for the very last, extreme case. They were interested in less radical, gentle methods of elimination, preferably without any disassembly at all. And it worked.

There were several approaches, trials, but as a result, the generalized algorithm looks like this:

- remove the bucket from the stove and carry out all subsequent operations with it outside it.

- pour into a bucket of hot water, boiling water for example, centimeter 2. In order to warm up the shafts and their mountings. But after that, he refrained from putting the bucket back into the oven and turning it on for mechanical spin-up, I don't want to pay for the motor again. He did not use other mechanical methods - an electric drill, for example, and also out of caution. And it was not necessary, as it turned out in the end. And in general he did everything very carefully, trying not to break or tear anything.

- from heating, and possibly from the fact that part of what "stuck" to the shaft dissolved, the knives gave in and began to rotate at least somehow (by hand). However, it is very tight.

- carefully, in a thin stream, he began to pour the shafts with rapeseed oil, the most common, for frying. I tried to make the oil flow between the oil seal and the shaft as deep as possible. Using a thin screwdriver, I very carefully bent the oil seal away from the shaft, so as to surely run the oil there. And I also tried another method: I poured oil into a small container formed inside the knife above the upper end of the shaft when the knife was put on it. From this container, oil slowly seeps down the shaft to the stuffing box and, possibly, some of it gets under the stuffing box. He added the oil gradually, little by little, only 3-4 times, after each time, again and again unwinding the knives by hand. It was easier to rotate the knives each time.

- but they still didn't spin freely. The last time he poured a little oil and left the bucket alone for a day, until the next evening, in an upright position, of course. The next day, or rather a day later, both knives were easily unwound by hand to such an extent that they could be rotated literally "with one finger."

I put the bread overnight so that it was ready by the morning - everything worked in an excellent way, as if there had never been any jamming. In the morning, as he took out the bread and the bucket cooled down a little, he poured hot water into it so that the carbon deposit, if it formed again on the shafts, was immediately washed off, as advised here. After washing the bucket, the knives continue to rotate perfectly, easily and naturally.

Which is what I wanted to achieve.

I'm glad for the member of the forum that our notes helped him.

I recommend pouring through the oil seal only if you know how it works and "feel" the material. Otherwise, there is a great risk of spoiling.

I will add my own way.

After hot soaking with a toothbrush, clean the neck of the shaft in the area of ​​the gland seal.

If it is jammed, turn it with sliding plumbing tongs.The main thing is to clamp it securely so as not to rip the slot.

We do not turn for the half-coupling, we will rip the frail joint. For the stirrer - too.

Remove the washer and half-coupling from below. We rotate the shaft with the bucket turned upside down and pour silicone oil (read above) into the slide bearing clearance.

Long enough if the oil is viscous.

Good luck!

not really that in the subject but the Ukrainians will come in handy - I found a firm that sells buckets for bread machines. in any case, to my ow5002 they have a bucket and it costs 300 hryvnia ...
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it seems to me in this thread ...
The other day the stove began to emit tearing sounds during kneading - a loud grinding of metal. Upon examination, we found that 1 of the pins can be safely removed .... It seems like this was not the case before .. The question is - what detail is lost? Oven 5004 (with Borodino bread which)

[snegir]

snegir More precisely will say sid2857 we are waiting

Broken part - see answer 36.
Do not insert it through the oil seal - it will tear.

There are two ways out.

The simplest answer is 56.

Not the best option, but quite workable, cheap and simple

Option 2 - drill out rivets and replace them with other aluminum rivets or alloy steel (stainless steel) screws.

Any locksmith will do it quickly.

If you have hands, you can make a device for a drill and remove the thickened layer of the closing head (formed during the riveting process), turning it into a cylinder so that you can pull it out. Or use side cutters and file files.

To make it easier to rivet a second time, you can drill a hole in the rod.


Do not pay special attention to the coating of the rivet - it is not important, the coating was simply applied as an assembly.

sid2857, tell me, do I understand correctly that there must be something else in the groove, outlined in red pencil? Dad says that you need to drive the washer into this groove ..
Just in the answer number 56, the outer part of the pin was fixed with a nut .. But for me, this horseshoe-shaped thing is in its place ..

On the other hand, if the washer disappeared from the groove, then where did it go ...

and another question ... I got rubber pimps from the bottom of the bread machine, I couldn't push them quickly .. Are they generally an important element?)

[AND]

sid2857
If "AND"then it is at engine.
Yes, it looks like a problem with the motor, one winding has flown and it simply cannot withstand the load. I had this option, just the opposite, at first the engine and then the mixer flew off, scratched the coating a little, but the main thing started to wedge the shaft little by little, until it got completely stuck. I turned it, as advised (after bread), in the direction of rotation, but it jammed completely as soon as I tried to rotate in the opposite direction. Changed the engine and trough under warranty.

sid2857, tell me, do I understand correctly that there must be something else in the groove, outlined in red pencil?

She looks like but not the same
That's what you need


in post 36 there is also a link to GOST with dimensions

on the elastic bands there is no way to clarify

Thanks for fixing it. Apart from the bucket, the problem was inside. One cogwheel flew off, so the mixer did not move .. Repaired)

[From below]

sid2857
From below remove the washer and half-coupling. We rotate the shaft with the bucket turned upside down and pour silicone oil (read above) into the plain bearing clearance.
Yes, this is the best option offered. I tried to carefully pour on the shaft from above, pushing back the oil seal with a very thin and sharp tip of a boot knife, MoS2 Spray is a fast penetrating spray lubricant of the highest quality, made in Germany based on a low-viscosity base oil with the addition of finely dispersed molybdenum disulfide and a special solvent. A fast-penetrating spray lubricant is designed to facilitate loosening of rusted and stuck components - it didn't take, a dead wedge. I tried it from below, as you advise, and after an hour the shaft was freed from the wedge and began to rotate freely.
Apparently, the syrup penetrates into the p / w and caramelizes there, but you can't "get it" from above.The conclusion from the experience gained should be at the beginning of operation, when the mating units are rubbed in, lubricate the oil seal from above, make sure that the syrup does not penetrate, when wedging appears, let the stove work in hot water and lubricate again.