Scarlett SL-1529 pressure cooker (reviews)

And the valve shouldn't rise, it should be recessed, that's why you have it all the time. You read the forum, you have already written about it.

Come on! Should and still how, in order to plug the air outlet, the valve rises and the rubber band from the inside closes the steam outlet. Then, in order not to explode, the pressure regulator next to the valve begins to bleed off (the one with the handle turns to open / close).

I lean more towards the shitty non-stick coating. Hike guano sold. Nothing will help. Can I change the saucepan?

And what kind of dishes did you burn and on what modes could you cook in more detail?

1. Chicken cutlets burnt in the "MEAT" mode
2. The stewed vegetables burnt in the "STEWING" mode
3. Buckwheat did not burn, but buckwheat stuck in the "PAR" mode
4. The minced meat with vegetables was prepared in advance in its own mode for 12 minutes, a little stuck to the bottom. After adding rice with water in "RICE" mode, a brown crust with a burnt taste came out. Om-Nom-nom...
If you want to make a casserole according to your recipe with a photo report

[FigLee]

FigLee I don’t even know what to tell you, you probably got such a pressure cooker, marriage comes across everywhere. And you tried to reduce the time in the modes, maybe it will help!

Hello girls. I also want to buy a cartoon, such a question: how does the bowl behave, understandably, if you don't scratch it with iron? I understand that there are no spare bowls for the scarlet and I have not read about suitable ones either

I have not yet burnt anything. On the contrary, everything is too wet there, because there is no evaporation. Even if you don't add water at all.

wills as with any Teflon. Accurately - and will last a long time.

yeah, I read a little, it seems like everyone has a decent unit for their money, let's see if tomorrow we can take my beauty of this topic

I have not yet burnt anything. On the contrary, everything is too wet there, because there is no evaporation. Even if you don't add water at all.

wills as with any Teflon. Accurately - and will last a long time.

What do you mean no evaporation? Does it not warm you at all? There is fumes and they should come out according to the idea, otherwise it will become so starry that it will not seem a little.

And that really no one whistles from the pressure regulator during the cooking process?

And I'm still interested in the opinion of those who burn. How did you manage? Or are you eating a cinder?

And here you are advised to reduce the time in the modes. Is it like this? A plug from a socket chtoli? Sitting near the multicooker looking at the timer? Awesome!

Nothing whistles for me during the cooking process. It can sizzle while the pressure is gaining and then not for long. And the time can be increased or decreased using the "+" or "-" buttons.

Nothing whistles during the cooking process. It can sizzle while the pressure is gaining and then not for long. And the time can be increased or decreased using the "+" or "-" buttons.

Well, here is one of two things, I myself have not yet studied it myself, but my spouse will assure you that in programs time = constant. Or we have different pressure cookers.

But I studied the pressure regulator myself. Everything seems to be simple there, A lid hangs on the pipe with a cone down and holds pressure under its weight. And it seems to me that the pressure is not very big, because the weight is small. Or am I wrong?
PS indeed, I saw it myself - time is changing. Well, the main thing is not to be raw. But still crap. Even if the temperature would decrease, then maybe it would not burn

When you have selected the program, the time is highlighted on the display, so it can be adjusted with these buttons.

[mode meat]

Push mode meat- the default is 21 minutes, if I'm not mistaken, then with a minus sign, subtract the time to the desired one!

[FigLee]

FigLee, it seems to me that you are either trying to cook with an open valve, or your pressure cooker is not working correctly. The hiss should be short-lived, at the moment when the liquid in the saucepan begins to boil actively, but there is not enough steam to block it. When the amount of steam reaches the set parameters, the lid of the pressure cooker is locked to death - you cannot open it until the pressure is released by itself or forcibly. This is how a pressure cooker should work, this is its normal mode. During the cooking process, excess steam is etched, yes, but so barely that it should not be heard or seen. If the pressure is released too quickly, the entire contents of the saucepan will hang on the lid inside the pressure cooker. Ideally, the lid remains clean after cooking.

If you are sure that your valve is in the Closed position, and all the dishes are burning, it means that not everything is in order with the pressure cooker, immediately get rid of it. Such a pressure cooker is not safe to operate.
When you cook, does the time count down on the display? It looks like the pressure in your pressure cooker either does not build up, or builds up too slowly (due to constant bleeding), at this point, burning occurs. Check the valve anyway! Try to twist it gently at the moment of hissing. If the hissing stops in some position, it means that the whole problem was in the valve.

Well, here is one of two things, I myself have not yet studied it myself, but my spouse will assure you that in programs time = constant.

Well, that's the answer. The problem is not in the pressure cooker, but in your wife's unpreparedness for the new unit. Let him try cooking with the valve closed, without hissing. Then nothing will burn. The pressure cooker does not reduce the temperature until it is in working mode. And her working regime is pressure. Due to the constant bleeding, the pressure cooker does not gain pressure, therefore, the temperature does not decrease. The pressure cooker continues to grill as hard as it can to finally bring the contents of the saucepan to a boil. She doesn't know that everything has been boiling there for a long time.

Well then, tell me what is wrong with you, and our pressure regulator can be considered defective.

With us, this regulator dangles freely, rises and even pulls out with little effort. Simply in the CLOSE position, it is a couple of millimeters lower than in OPEN. That is, a jet of steam lifts it in any position.

[short-term]

The valve should be loose. He is not fixed to death. There are two positions in which it is slightly submerged. One of these positions is Closed, the other is Open. That's what I'm talking about: perhaps the valve is in the wrong position! Instead of arguing with me (by the way, which you haven't figured out yet - you haven't even tried to cook, you are talking about problems from the words of your wife, who claims that the time spent on programs is a constant), you would rather try twist the valve! I don't care what valve you use to cook. It's up to you whether you want to eat normal food, or burnt food. Several people with pressure cooking experience have already answered: there should be no constant bleeding of steam! Instead of listening, trying to learn how to operate a pressure cooker and enjoy the cooking process, you are trying to prove to us that we do not understand anything. Isn't it better to play with the valve? In the worst case, you will make sure your pressure cooker is defective. At best you will find a common language with her.
Steam hissing in the valve is a phenomenon short-term, no more than a couple of minutes. After that, a click is heard - the cover is blocked. All! Next, the dish is cooked under pressure. Nothing has time to burn in the saucepan, since the heater temperature drops immediately after the pressure is built up, the heater turns on as needed for literally a few seconds, and then turns off again. This is done so that the pressure in the saucepan is kept within the required limits, under control. If the heater runs continuously, the pot will explode nafik!
Ask your wife if the display is counting down? Does the letter P light up on it while cooking?

watch the video about the pressure cooker it might be clearer!

The valve should be loose. He is not fixed to death. There are two positions in which it is slightly submerged. One of these positions is Closed, the other is Open. That's what I'm talking about: perhaps the valve is in the wrong position!

Well, then everything is normal. Two positions, with a closed hole (CLOSE) and open (OPEN). And it is obvious that at low pressure, the valve in the CLOSE position rises and releases steam. No matter how hard I played it, I studied everything from the inside.

The hiss in the valve is short-lived at the beginning of boiling, I do not argue with this, but this valve is out of the question, it works like a clock and closes the pressure cooker as it should. I'm talking about an OVERPRESSURE REGULATOR, which starts to hiss after the valve is closed.

I don't have Scarlet either, and everything is exactly as azaza describes, there is no steam from the main valve at all (only when you forcibly bleed it off) there is a little steam from the other valve until pressure is built up, and everything is quiet, and there is no steam and there is not even a hint of steam ... There are no signs of food on the inside of the lid, only droplets of water (even from peas and milk)

watch the video about the pressure cooker it might be clearer!

I watched the video. Tell me, how's the soup all over the pot is the norm?

I watched the video. Tell me, how's the soup all over the pot is the norm?

And I drew attention to the soup all over the pan, mnu doesn't have that

And I drew attention to the soup all over the pan, mnu does not have this

I have!

I don't even have a pea

All pressure cookers have different norms, the main thing is that they cook well

Personally, the walls in my saucepan are not like that !!!

I'm talking about an OVERPRESSURE REGULATOR, which starts to hiss after the valve is closed.

This regulator should not hiss, you most likely have a malfunction in the device itself.
As for the soup all over the pot, they just opened the valve early or had to bleed it just a little bit.

[FigLee]

I'm talking about an OVERPRESSURE REGULATOR, which starts to hiss after the valve is closed.

Clear. Is it a little skewed? In some topic I read that they bent this piptik, sort of like in Brand-6050. Maybe you have it a bit crooked, backlash? Because of this, the pressure in the pressure cooker, if it builds up, is quickly released, and therefore the ten works much more than it should according to the program. Ask your wife if there is a letter P on the display during cooking and if the time is counting down. This question has already been asked many times, you do not give an answer. And we do not ask for the sake of our own curiosity. We are trying to figure out what is wrong with your pressure cooker.
If it is not possible to correct the situation in the near future, it is better to hand over the unit to the SC under warranty.
I also have another SV, but they are all created in the same image and likeness. From the excess steam regulator, not only did I never see a stream of steam, but not even a droplet of condensate settled on it. Slightly hisses when working under pressure main valve, but it is so quiet that the ear must be close to the working SV, and it is hot, i.e., in fact, it is not audible at all. Sometimes condensation is slightly noticeable on it. But again I repeat - on the main valve. I don't see the regulator and never hear it, except that at the moment when it locks or unlocks the lid, a quiet click is heard. All.
The lid only crumbles when I release the pressure too quickly. If it falls by itself, or if I bleed it off by hand very delicately, the lid is absolutely clean. I do not count the condensation.

Scarlet maker girls, join the conversation! Does anyone have a regulator problem like FigLee? How do you solve it?

I would not want to look like an idiot when I come to the store to complain about a defective valve that works as it should, and the point is probably a pimpled saucepan with a poor-quality coating. Next time I'll film the cooking process.

And nothing is skewed, he walks absolutely freely.

I also have another SV

Oops! So you have the same or different? This is essential!

[FigLee]

FigLee, absolutely not important !!!
The principle of operation and design are the same for all pressure cookers. You need to understand them !!! The difference may be in the chip and materials.
In general, the most extensive topics on pressure cookers are according to St. Moulinex and Brand 6050, read, maybe you will find an answer to your question ...

The principle of operation and design are the same for all pressure cookers.

If the matter is in the pimpled coating of the saucepan, then the principle of operation has no meaning at all. That is why I ask, those who have the same slow cooker, those who use conventional programs without adjusting the time, and who has an original saucepan, do not your liquid dishes burn?

And the opinion of those who burns is especially interesting. And I saw a lot of their reviews, but why are they silent?

PS and the principle of work then what to understand? I fell asleep with everything I needed, put the regulator in CLOSE mode, chose the required program (and without CHANGING THE TIME !!! That's why it is the program!) And went to the tanks to chop.

The structure of the valve is still not the same for everyone, it seems to me, so I saw that in some pressure cookers the valve (float) is pulled out freely, but I cannot pull it out (to pull it out, you need to unscrew as many as two healthy nuts from the inside) and remove a bunch of different iron gaskets and one silicone, and the float does not pull out at all, but only turns (you can pull it out only when you disassemble the entire valve)
But it probably doesn't matter

[azaza]

azaza, there is no letter P on the display in the saber pressure cooker. Zeroes and numbers, everything.

FigLee, I don't know about other pressure cookers, but this one shouldn't sizzle and burn when cooking! Not tightness of the lid (and valves) is a common phenomenon, this is a marriage, it must be handed over under warranty. A couple of my acquaintances had a similar problem, a palpable hiss throughout the entire cooking and hence the burning. If the pressure cooker is working properly, it is as quiet as a mouse.

Oops! So you have the same or different? This is essential!

The main thing is that you have steam during work, which should not be. And it should not burn with the correct operation of the pressure cooker.
Yes, I have a different one (as you can see from the list of techniques at the bottom of each message). But I already said above: all pressure cookers are created in the image and likeness of each other, and they have the same principle of operation. In multicooker, different modes can have different algorithms of operation, and in pressure cookers, the algorithm is the same for all: a set of pressure at maximum heating, a lock of the lid, and a sharp decrease in temperature due to the pulsed activation of the heating element. All! The differences are purely external: white with a black rim, black with white, or stainless steel with black and white with yellow polka dots.
The release of a trickle of steam may be an individual feature of a unit of goods, not a model. In principle, it is acceptable if it does not interfere with the normal operation of the pressure cooker. You seem to be affected. You still haven't answered about the countdown and the letter P on the display. Do you still think that I am dumbly curious? OK, I'm leaving to go about my business with my model of pressure cooker... Well, wait then, until your scallops appear. Only you will have to answer them about the letter P and the countdown. Or then don't wait for answers here, but go straight to the SC. Because in order to be prompted for something, you need to know the initial information. In this case, whether the pressure cooker is entering pressure mode or not.

Well what to answer you ??? If the principle of operation and device (and the laws of physics)

has no meaning at all.

PS and the principle of work then what to understand?

If you understand why your dishes burn with a closed valve and pressure, you will understand what the principle of operation has to do with it ...
Read this topic first, you may find the answer to your question ...

pressure cookers have the same algorithm for all: a set of pressure at maximum heat, the lid is locked, and a sharp decrease in temperature due to the pulsed activation of the heating element.

Yes, that's exactly it!

With the valve closed, the liquid in the pressure cooker should not evaporate, in fact, therefore, nothing should burn.
Steam flows through the valve, the liquid in the saucepan evaporates and therefore burns when the liquid evaporates completely.

[azaza]

azaza, there is no letter P on the display in the saber pressure cooker. Zeroes and numbers, everything.

FigLee, I don't know about other pressure cookers, but this one shouldn't sizzle and burn when cooking! Not tightness of the lid (and valves) is a common phenomenon, this is a marriage, it must be handed over under warranty. A couple of my acquaintances had a similar problem, a palpable hiss throughout the entire cooking and hence the burning. If the pressure cooker is working properly, it is as quiet as a mouse.

Under the guarantee of IMHO, you can prove it. (I would be butting in the place of servicemen). She works like a clock. It only burns. Or do you need to come to them with vegetables and cook a stew?

The main thing is that you have steam during work, which should not be.

Come on! Where will the excess pressure go? The valve is designed for 90 kPa. And this is IMHO not a lot, a little less atmosphere, in a car tire, and even more than twice as much. All that is played off from above. Otherwise, it can start staring.

[FigLee]

FigLee, for some reason, acquaintances handed over their defective pressure cookers without question and either returned their money or exchanged them for another product. After the pressure is set, the pressure cooker "shuts up" and the steam does not hiss from there. Well, if you stick your ear there, you can hear a rare bearing. The pressure cooker must not share steam with the environment! Everything is in itself.

Got up pressure, shut up, made a sound, the countdown went. Hisses softly, quietly, letting out almost nothing.

[azaza]

The structure of the valve is still not the same for everyone, it seems to me ...
But it probably doesn't matter

Oksan, it really doesn't matter. This refers to the differences that I exaggeratedly called "polka dots". The valve is attached differently, or the pump on the inner lid is not in the middle, but on the side - this does not affect the principle of operation of the pressure cooker at all. The main principle remains the same: set pressure at the maximum power of the heating element, lock the lid, reduce heating. All! The rest is decorative differences between the models.
The big difference begins where the pressure cooker model moves away from the simplest (which we own). A type of pressure cooker-smokehouse, or a speed cooker, where in one unit the possibilities of cooking under pressure and without it are combined. There - yes, the difference is huge. But in this case we are talking about the simplest pressure cookers.

azaza, there is no letter P on the display in the saber pressure cooker. Zeroes and numbers, everything.

How not? The toes glow when the pressure is set. When the cover is blocked by pressure, P must be displayed. The difference in the models is small: some show P when working under pressure, others PP. The third, I simply do not know. So I don't know everything about pressure cookers
Skarlushniki people, develop doubts! Is there a P when working under pressure? If not, how do you know if a pressure cooker is in working mode?

Come on! Where will the excess pressure go? The valve is designed for 90 kPa. All that is played off from above. Otherwise, it can start staring.

But imagine what goes somewhere and does not hiss She does not always gain pressure, but picks up and holds when it goes down, then picks up again (while the number of couples is running on the display) in the cooking process

[azaza]

azaza, and why is it needed, your letter P? And without her, the scarf lovers lived fine.

[FigLee]

FigLee check the O-ring on the pot lid it may not be level

Watch this video from 03min.40sec, steam comes out during operation there too. True, according to Polaris. 🔗

[Tan]

Tan I don't have this letter either R, it's just that when pressure is gained, then zeroes run next to the numbers of the selected time, as soon as the pressure is accumulated, then the zeroes stop running and the countdown of the selected time begins.

[FigLee]

FigLee check the O-ring on the pot lid it may not be level

Absolutely exactly. After all, the pressure is released through the PRESSURE REGULATOR (No. 3 in the instructions), and not through other holes.

PS I didn't find anything about the letter P.
PPS about the connection with the countdown with pressure did not understand at all. If my pressure is relieved, how does the countdown start? Where is it written in the instructions? As I swing there is generally no dependence on pressure. Everything is on a timer.

Come on! Where will the excess pressure go? The valve is designed for 90 kPa. And this is IMHO not a lot, a little less atmosphere, in a car tire, and even more than twice as much. All that is played off from above. Otherwise, it can start staring.

It can start to spin in a pressure cooker, and even then, it seems, in old-style models. In the present, the defense is more serious.

The "trick" of an electric pressure cooker is that she herself understands how much pressure is enough for her to cook. This is regulated by a heating element. High temperature - the liquid boils too actively, which means that steam is actively forming. Teng stops heating, the temperature drops, the formation of additional steam stops. The task of the pressure cooker is to maintain the pressure within the specified limits... If excessive pressure is generated, it is vented through the regulator. But here the question should be asked: why is it formed? There should be no excess steam in the saucepan! The correct function of a pressure cooker is precisely to not give too much steam. That is, if steam is constantly escaping from the SV, it means that the heating element does not stop heating. This is a malfunction of the pressure cooker. With such work, of course, everything will burn in the saucepan!
Therefore, first of all, the question arises as to whether your pressure cooker is in working mode? Does it have any pressure at all? Hence the questions from the countdown. Even if the letter P is not displayed in Scarlett (which I still doubt, but I already admit it), then the countdown must go.

Everything is as it should be, the pressure is gaining, the valve closes, after about a minute, PO appears, and the countdown begins. A couple of times during cooking, the pressure is turned on again, for a couple of minutes.

Even if the letter P is not displayed in Scarlett (which I still doubt, but I already admit it), then the countdown must go.

1. Included. Pressure builds up, red zeroes run in a circle, green minutes stand, the countdown does not go.
2. Pressure builds up, valve shuts, pressure cooker beeps. Zeroes stopped running, the minutes were counting down.

After that "Peak" and the working regime began. If the mode has not started, the countdown does not go either. No P is required.

I'm not at all sure that our pressure cooker has a pressure dependence of the heating element operation and that there is a pressure sensor in it at all.

It is necessary to fight with servicemen with knowledge of the device of this particular device, and not the device from a neighbor

Absolutely exactly. After all, the pressure is released through the PRESSURE REGULATOR (No. 3 in the instructions), and not through other holes.

PS I didn't find anything about the letter P.

I just wanted to say. If it was a crooked elastic band, it would float from under the lid. And soars from the regulator. And, apparently, it enters into the pressure mode - otherwise it would float not from the regulator, but from the valve. This means the valve is closed. One thing remains: SC.

OK, I'm shooting the question about the letter P. I was sure that it is in all pressure cookers. I was wrong. I sprinkle ashes on my head.
_JuMi_ This letter is needed as an indicator to the user: the device has gone into operation, be careful: pressure! Apparently, some manufacturers considered the warning unnecessary.