Russian fish soup, fish soups
Category: First courses
Ingredients
Fish
Onion
Garlic
Parsley
Bay leaf
Allspice
Salt
Cooking method

Let's start with small fish - this is the first option. Let's exclude crucian carp, rudd and roach from the list - they are the least suitable for our purpose. Best of all - ruff and perch. First, rinse the fish a little - precious mucus will give additional strength to the broth. It is not necessary to gut the very small fish, but the larger one, gut it, rinse it, pull out the gills with the roots (they add bitterness) and remove the eyes (there is no broth from them, one dregs). Naturally, we did not forget to stock up on two medium onions, four cloves of garlic, parsley root, bay leaf, allspice and peas, as well as salt, preferably large, per kilogram of fish. That's all for now.
Put the prepared fish in a saucepan, fill it with cold water (2.5 liters per kilogram of fish), add the peeled roots, onions and cook with a slow boil for 40 minutes to an hour. Put the bay leaf, pepper and salt 10 minutes before the end of cooking. We filter the finished broth.
To get a transparent ear, you can lighten the broth with a lion, but our ancestors rarely did this. Ukha is the main dish of the lean Russian table, and the egg makes it milder. Therefore, it is more correct to clarify the broth with pressed or grained black caviar (unless, of course, it is a pity).
Take 50 g of caviar and grind it in a mortar, gradually adding a spoonful of cold water. We dilute with a glass of cold water, add a glass of hot fish soup and, stirring, pour in two steps into a saucepan with fish soup. After the first part of the brace is poured in, the ear should boil - only then can the rest be poured in. When boiling again, remove the lid from the pan, keep the pan on low heat for 15–20 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the ear stand for 10–15 minutes so that the brace settles to the bottom. Now you can drain the fish soup completely and serve it on the table, putting a piece of boiled fish (the one that has not boiled) on the plate.
If you want to cook a "double" fish soup (it tastes better!), Then put portioned pieces of fillet of something more impressive, for example pike perch, into the prepared and strained broth from small fish, and cook for another twenty minutes. For the first broth, you can use not only small fish, but also waste from large fish - heads, fins, bones and tails.
White, red, black
Previously, there was a fairly clear hierarchy of fish soup species from different fish. For example, ear made from asp, carp, chub and carp was called "black"; from pike perch, perch, ruff, whitefish - "white". The most delicious, of course, was considered "red" - from sturgeon, beluga and sterlet (they were called "red" fish, that is, beautiful, the best). "Plast" fish soup was made from salted, dried and dried spread fish - it was scalded with boiling water, in which anise or fennel was previously cooked, and then put into water. Dried fish went to the "sluggish" fish soup, dried or fresh mushrooms were added to it. From smelt they cooked "Chudskaya" or "Pskov" fish soup, from essence (dried small fish) - "Onega", from cod and halibut - "Pomorskaya".
The ear from burbot became famous - "mevaya" ("men" - burbot). And although in the old days not everyone liked him - they thought that burbots eat drowned people (where can you feed so many drowned people?), Our ancestors liked to put burbot liver in a collection ear (you can also use milk), previously stewed in salted and acidified water with lemon juice. Both the liver and milk of burbot reach their maximum size at the beginning of winter, so the real ear burbot is seasonal. When the time comes, we will definitely try.Take a large burbot and carefully remove the skin from it. Gutted and set aside the milk and liver. Cut the pulp from the bones; we will throw the head, bones, tail and fins into a pan with small change and cook the first broth, or, as they say, the first broth.
While the base is being prepared, let's get down to fish meat. Pass through a meat grinder, mix with a couple of tablespoons of flour and an egg, salt and pepper. Roll out the minced meat into a roller with a diameter of 3 cm, put it in the boiling broth for about five minutes, then take it out and, when it cools down, cut it into circles (it will be too lazy to cut - just make the meatballs). Let our already strained and ready-made broth boil for itself little by little. Dip milk and liver into it, cook for ten minutes, and five minutes before cooking, put fish meatballs there. Add a spoonful of capers, a slice of butter and pour into plates, throwing 3-4 olives, a circle of lemon into each plate and sprinkle with fresh herbs. Let's serve lemon to my ear - an old Moscow custom.
By the way, the so-called "Makaryevsky bailiff's soup" (there was one) was also usually cooked from burbot. At the end, a bottle of Madeira was put into the saucepan where it was being prepared "to warm up", a little wine was added to the ear, and the rest, warmed up, was served to the ear. Who said something about burbot? ..
Royally
There is no doubt: fish of noble blood - sturgeon and sterlet - give the ear a delicate, delicate taste. But you cannot do without richness and aroma, which appear only thanks to fish fines. In Moscow taverns of the nineteenth century, sterlet and sturgeon fish soup were certainly cooked in ruff broth, considering pure sturgeon too cloying, and purely sterlet too wasteful. And a seemingly worthless bony ruff in a luxurious royal ear became an irreplaceable court fish.
If you decide to cook something similar, then you cannot do without guests - call, invite, do not eat such beauty alone! Now let's take a look at our stocks. Let's say we already have brushes or perches (at least a kilogram). We buy the rest in the store - 1-1.5 kg of sterlet or sturgeon, a couple of onions, 3-4 parsley roots, 3-4 slices of celery root, 1 bunch of parsley, green onions, lemon, champagne (better brut), 50 g caviar, salt.
It is clear that first we cook the same broth from ruffs with roots and onions. We throw out the ruff, filter the broth and lighten it with caviar - do not skimp, after all, we cook the "royal" fish soup. Put pieces of sterlet or sturgeon in a transparent broth (wash, cut and wipe dry with a towel), bring to a boil and cook over low heat for 15-25 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces. A few seconds before removing from the heat, pour a glass of champagne into the pan - they love sturgeon luxury! Carefully take out the pieces of fish, put them on deep plates, sprinkle with parsley and carefully fill with strained fish soup. Next to our royal fish soup, lay out slices of peeled and seed lemon, finely chopped green onions and warm bread. Done! The doorbell rings - open ...
Fisherman's
All of the above, of course, is good - saltwort, fish soups, sturgeon delights - but how can a real ear happen at a table covered with a starch tablecloth, surrounded by silver crystal ?! Real ear can only happen in natural conditions - that is, exclusively in nature. This is no longer a dish - it is a philosophy, a ritual, an almost religious ceremony. Firstly, both experienced chefs and sophisticated gourmets usually agree that real fish soup can only be prepared from freshly caught fish. Secondly, water for fish soup must be taken from the same reservoir where they fished. Thirdly, the ear must be breathed in the smoke of a fire. And fourthly, all those present must participate in the correct ear ritual.
For fishing fish soup, the same trifle goes, and from noble fish, pike perch or pike are waiting for their turn. In season, you can season the fish soup with a handful of forest mushrooms, this will give it a delicate sweetish taste and an intoxicating forest aroma.If the catch is so-so, we use pre-boiled rice, pearl barley or millet groats - for density and variety. Not the highest, of course, class, but quite tolerable, but taking into account the beauties of nature, a portion of oxygen, waiting time, appetite and vodka, it is absolutely wonderful ...
About vodka. Pouring half a glass of vodka into the pot at the end or not is everyone's business, no one really knows why this is being done. Some say - "for better assimilation of fish oil with liquid", but we think that this is just part of the ritual - a way to appease the ears by sharing the most sacred with the fish. However, in this case, vodka will also serve as a kind of seasoning, giving the ear a light bitterness - quite different, not peppery. And if you accidentally find such wealth as a bottle of anise, without hesitation, replace it with vodka - fish respects anise.
And the last tip: the ear should be infused. Moving the cauldron away from the fire, cover it with a lid and wait ten minutes. This is the most painful moment - you can even drink the first one. Or remember fishing tales for the time being - after all, they will certainly "go" when there is not a single portion of golden spiritual moisture left ...

Note
Tips and recipes with photos.
Material provided by the magazine "Gastronom".

Once upon a time, ear in Russia was called any stew - and pea, and meat, and fish, and egg. And the expression "cock ear" did not cause smiles. Since then, the meaning of the concept has changed, but this dish is still the pinnacle of Russian cuisine.

Now you can't cook the fish soup without fish. However, we will not call any fish soup that. The wuhu, which we are talking about, is not seasoned with cereals, flour, overcooked onions, etc. Only spices, spicy vegetables (the same raw onion) and roots are put in it. Everything else is just derivatives of a real soup or ear, but with a certain definite epithet. We added, for example, potatoes and greens - we got "fish soup", put tomatoes and butter - we eat "Don fish soup", chopped up carrots - we make "sweet fish soup" ... Although it is better not to do the latter: in the classic ear of perch and ruff carrots inappropriate, the sweetness that these fish give to the broth is quite enough.

Admin

Rooster ear, 8-10 servings

What do you need:
1 medium rooster (without giblets),
1 medium sterlet (about 1 kg),
2 onions,
2 parsley roots
3 potatoes,
1 bunch of dill
salt, black pepper to taste.

What to do:
Peel the onion and cut it in half. Peel the parsley root and cut into large pieces. Put a whole rooster in a wide saucepan, pour 3 liters of cold water, add onions, parsley and put on medium heat. Cook for about 2 hours, constantly skimming off the foam for the first half hour. Then take out the rooster, strain the broth through a sieve. The meat can be used for another dish. Peel the fish and gut it. Put in a boiling broth and cook over medium heat for 20-30 minutes, remembering to skim off the foam. Gently take out the finished fish (so as not to fall apart), cool and cut into portions. Peel the potatoes, cut into cubes, put in the broth and boil until tender. Then add herbs, season with salt and pepper, bring to a boil and remove from heat. Serve immediately, spreading the pieces of sterlet on heated plates and pouring boiling fish soup over them.
Admin

Fish soup, 8-10 servings

What do you need:
800 g of small fish (ruff, perch),
300 g of peeled pike,
500 g of peeled pike perch and salmon,
4 potatoes,
1 onion,
1 parsley root
80 g butter
2 bay leaves,
salt, black peppercorns to taste,
a large bunch of dill,
a small bunch of green onions,
100 g of vodka.

What to do:
Put fish fines, onions, parsley in a saucepan, pour 2 liters of cold water, bring to a boil, remove the foam and cook for 30 minutes. The fish should be completely boiled. Then strain the broth, discard the fish. Cut pike, pike perch and salmon into large pieces and boil in broth for 15–20 minutes, skimming off the foam. Peel the potatoes, cut into cubes and add to the broth; cook for another 10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, bay leaves, remove from heat.Let it brew under the lid for 10 minutes. Pour in vodka and pour the soup into plates. Add finely chopped greens.
Admin

Fish soup with meatballs

For fish soup: small fish 150 g, onions 10 g, parsley root 5 g, celery root 5 g, carrots 5 g, salt; for meatballs: fish 80 g, wheat bread 25 g, cream 30 g, egg 1/2 pcs., butter 3 g, ground black pepper, salt.

Pass the pulp of pike perch, whitefish, pike, perch, burbot or other fish 2-3 times through a meat grinder. Add eggs, melted black peppercorns, bay leaf, butter, salt, ground pepper, cream, crushed bread or stale bread soaked in water and squeezed out. Mix the whole mass thoroughly, cut into balls from it and boil them in broth. When serving, place the meatballs in a plate and pour over the fish soup. (source: Pokhlebkin Cookbook)
Admin

Small fish soup (Russian cuisine)

Provisions: small fish 2 lb. (800 g), 1/2 pcs white roots, 1 pc onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp caviar, salt to taste.

Cooking method:
Having selected the largest 4 fish, the rest of the fish needs to be thoroughly washed and gutted, but do not remove the scales from it and put everything in the pan, pour 6 plates of water, put all the peeled roots and one bay leaf there and put on the stove to cook. Then, about 1/4 hour before serving the fish soup on the table, put those large 4 fish in it, after removing the scales from them, cleaning and rinsing. Put the ear on the stove so that it boils; after half an hour, these four fish are taken out with a colander, and the fish soup is pulled out and filtered directly into a bowl through a wet napkin, on which all the boiled fish and roots remain - the fish is boiled so that it is thrown away. When the ear is strained, then those 4 fish that have been cooked for only 1/4 hour are put in it, and, in addition, 4 peeled slices of lemon without grains, finely chopped dill and parsley herbs. Fish, not peeled from the scales, is taken for boiling fish soup because the fish soup can be stronger and tastier from this. The fish soup is done like this. Fish caviar is taken, pounded in a mortar, 2 tbsp is added to it. l. cold water, everything is stirred well, then hot fish soup is added there, then, after warming this mass, it is poured into the ear, having previously stirred it strongly in one direction. When the brace is poured into the ear, you need to squeeze a little juice from the lemon there, then close the ear with a lid and put it on the edge of the stove for 15 minutes, and when the guy is curled up, the ear, as mentioned above, is filtered through a napkin directly into the soup bowl, putting there are 4 boiled fish.
Admin

Fish soup

For 1 kg of fish - 2 onions, 1/2 parsley root, 2 bay leaves, 3 black and allspice peas, 1.5 - 2 liters of water.

It is recommended to cook the soup from small fish. The most delicious fish soup is obtained from fish of different breeds, cooked together. Put the peeled fish in a saucepan, add water and bring to a boil over the fire. Remove foam and limescale. Then add chopped onion and parsley, pepper, bay leaves, salt and cook for 20-25 minutes. Sprinkle with dill before serving.
Admin

Ukha with fish dumplings

Fish broth 400 g, dumplings 170 g, greens 3 g; for the dough: flour 40 g, egg 1/6 pcs., water 152 g; for minced meat: fish pulp 75 g, onion 10 g, ground black pepper, salt.

Sift the flour, pour it on the table in a slide, make a funnel in it, pour water with an egg and salt into it, and quickly knead the tough dough. After 30 minutes, roll it out in a layer 2-3 cm thick. Pass the flesh of the fish through a meat grinder along with the onion, add salt and pepper. Cut dumplings from the dough and minced meat, boil them in salted boiling water, remove with a slotted spoon, put in a plate, pour the fish soup and sprinkle with herbs.
(source: Pokhlebkin Cookbook)
Admin

Triple ear

The secret of making fish soup comes down to the following: proportions of seasonings, the number of fish and water quality are very important. The most delicious ear is obtained if it is cooked in spring water. The catch is divided into three parts: in one small fish for the broth, in the other two (by the volume of the pot) the fish is large.There may be: pike perch, chub, ide and everything else that fell for the bait (but not purchased, otherwise the ear will not work!). The only exception is catfish - it is only suitable for hot weather. In the first part - ruffs, privet, perches. They are boiled unpeeled, but gutted, with a thoroughly washed abdomen - otherwise the ear will be cloudy and bitter. The mucus on the ruffs and pins gives the ear a divine taste and aroma - "ambrosia", which translates as food of the gods. For this quality, the ruff, for example, has an honorary title and when collecting fish soup is considered its "commandant" ... A broth of small fish is boiled for 30-45 minutes. When the broth is ready, let the broth settle, drain it clean and transparent, put it on the fire again. With the subsequent laying of large fish (of course, cleaned, gutted and thoroughly washed), put a large onion cut into four parts, carrots, a small piece of parsley or celery root, add salt. Top up with boiling water and cook the fish soup over low heat for 30 minutes, no more, otherwise the fish will boil. At the same time, there is a proprietary rule: when boiling large fish, do not turn a spoon in the pot, and you should not stir it. And so that the fish does not burn, they turn the pot from time to time, shake it a little and then all the pieces of large fish do not break, remain intact. After the fish is ready, take out the fish, while it is hot, add salt, and put the third portion in the pot and with it a little pepper. It is not superfluous to put the swimming bladders of large fish and ribbons of fat removed from the discarded entrails: then the ear will be especially rich - with sparkles of fat the size of a penny. Remember: bay leaves, parsley, dill have strong specific smells, they drown out the taste of fish, and their presence in the pot is contraindicated. I must say that the rest of the spices are put very carefully: a little of everything and certainly at the end of cooking. This is the only way to learn and taste all the taste qualities of fish soup. The general corporate rule must be strictly observed: the more fish, the fewer spices, the sweeter, more aromatic the ear. It tastes and smells like natural river fish, not bay leaves. Only the bishop's soup allows itself a retreat: it is boiled in chicken broth, with sweet green onions and pepper. And in the fish soup - besides fish, only onions and carrots. They give the ear a special taste, decorate it in the literal and figurative sense: the ear has an amber transparent color and a breathtaking smell, and from it (just imagine!) Ruby fins of perch and red carrot circles stick out. An unforgettable dish! But if you put a few sorrel petals, a slice of lemon or pickled cucumber in the pot, add one clove of garlic, then you can't pull off the fish soup by the ears. Without these spices, the ear will not be ear, but this is nonsense ...
Admin

Fish stew

The most delicious fish soup, or, as it was also called, ear, is obtained from small fish - ruffs, gudgeon, crucian carp, perch. You can also take caviar from this fish to draw the fish soup, so that it is transparent. Such small fish can be put in any fish soup, but the name is given not by small fish, but by fish, which is considered the main one. But even without such a "main" fish, the ear of small fish is quite tasty. Ear, ear, as already mentioned, in the old days was not necessarily prepared from fish. There was, for example, a "cock ear". A tribute to the tradition, perhaps, fish ear in chicken broth, which is still brewed today. It is not difficult to cook the fish soup. The main thing is to make it tasty and rich. The classic fish soup should be thick and transparent, the fish should not be boiled. I have heard the opinion that fish, they say, cannot be cooked for a long time. Suddenly it will fall apart, lose its integrity and attractive appearance, the broth will lose its transparency, and the fish itself, without breaking it, cannot be pulled out of the pan or frying pan. This is not true. It turns out that if you add salt to fresh, peeled and washed fish and leave it like that, salted, lie down for a while, then it can be cooked for a very long time, the portions will not collapse during cooking.The dishes in which the fish are cooked should be shallow, special - even oval in shape, such as a goose-bowl, a pail. A stand is placed on the bottom of such a pan in order to put the fish on it (then it will not stick to the bottom of the pan and burn). The fish fits freely in a relatively small amount of water, and the fish should not "swim" in the pan. If the water has also evaporated, add hot water, but in no case cold. Cooking time for fish is at least 1 - 2 hours. The broth after boiling the fish should be such that it solidifies in jelly in the cold. If you take more water, the jelly will not work. Such a broth - "watery" - was considered useless. A rule is mandatory: the fish cools in the broth in which it was cooked. The weaker the heat under the pan, the less the food will boil over. “The ear is sweet from small fish,” our ancestors said, and they were right, as we can see if we are lucky with the catch.
Alexandra
What a rich material, thank you, Admin!

I am the only fish man in the family, only occasionally do I agree to sip fresh fish soup from salmon ...

And I found a fish soup or fish soup that was acceptable for me not far from work in an institution and I often take it for lunch.

In a one-time tidy portion tureen in a transparent broth, a couple of pieces of sturgeon, salmon and pike perch, a whole shrimp and a couple of mussels float. As I understood it, it is brewed with onions, peppers and potatoes - a couple of large cubes also float there, which I safely leave.

I think you can do this at home too - any seafood and fish for broth ...
kinski
Kalya
Kalya - widespread in the 16-18 centuries. fish liquid first course. Subsequently, it gradually almost fell out of use, and in some places it was incorrectly called a fish pickle. It is prepared basically the same way as fish soup, but pickles, cucumber pickle, lemons and lemon juice are added to the broth for kali, either individually or together. A distinctive feature of kalya used to be that usually only fatty fish, mostly red, was used for it, and caviar was placed in it along with fish.
Good kalya can be prepared from sea fish traditionally used in the Russian North, for example from halibut, catfish, which are quite fatty and, moreover, go well with a salty-sour base. In kalyu, as a rule, there are more spices than in the ear. Kalya is thicker than fish soup, broth in it is sharper and denser in consistency, and in terms of quantity it is always less than in the ear. Previously, kalya was considered a festive dish.

1.5 kg fish
1.5-1.75 l of water
2 pickled cucumbers
1 cup cucumber pickle
3-4 potatoes
0.5 lemon
2 onions
1 leek
1 parsley (root and herbs)
1 carrot
10 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon dill
5-6 saffron stamens
1 tablespoon fresh or 1 teaspoon dry tarragon

Cook at the beginning like a fish soup: prepare a vegetable broth, then add boiled cucumber pickle to it separately, add pickled cucumbers cut into cubes, and then lower the fish, cut into large pieces. Cook for 8 to 20 minutes, depending on the type of fish .. Season with spices in the same way and in the same order as the fish soup. In conclusion, put the dill, part of the leek, tarragon, squeeze the lemon juice into the kale, already removed from the heat, and let it brew.
V. V. Pokhlebkin
fugaska
and I found such a variant of the royal fish soup on good-cook (I do not remember the author, unfortunately)
Royal ear
We boil homemade chicken, which we pre-cut into portioned pieces (if we take it from the original source, then it is indicated there that it should be a rooster, but I do not see a fundamental difference). While the chicken is boiling, prepare the rest. Cut the salmon head into small pieces. We throw out only the gills, we need everything else. We don’t throw away even those pieces that have no meat (fins, frontal part) - they are the fat. We clean 1 onion, potatoes. We need another kind of fish - with white meat, river. I use northern types of fish, but it can be carp, pike perch, and crucian carp.We clean the fish, gut, cut into portions.
An hour after the start of cooking the chicken, add salt, peppercorns, bay leaf, dry parsley root (sold in bags, cut into small cubes) to the broth. When the chicken is ready, add pieces of salmon head and finely diced onion. Cook for about 20 minutes. Then add diced potatoes. When it boils, add the rest of the fish. Cook until potatoes and fish are cooked. Pour in vodka. Turn off the fire in a minute. Let stand for 15-20 minutes. Pour into bowls and sprinkle with finely chopped herbs. Well, very tasty !!!
I do not specify the proportions, it all depends on the number of people and the pan in which you cook. If you cook for a small family, then you need to take half a head, salmon, half a chicken, 2-3 crucian carp (small or medium size), 50 grams of vodka.

I don’t remember what kind of fish we had, but we made fish soup with chicken in nature, in a huge cauldron - extraordinary deliciousness! only we still did salamur, with garlic (garlic, salt, tomato, bitter pepper - grind everything and pour it with a soup soup), an amazing thing!
Summer resident
Fish soup in Kharcho style


Well, I wanted Kharcho today as a pregnant woman. I made a revision in the refrigerator, and did not find any suitable meat for this, but I did find something where the packaging said "Heck with. M. Portioned". Proceeding from the fact that for me Kharcho is a hybrid of hodgepodge and rice soup, I decided that if the hodgepodge happens to be fish, then I will have fish kharcho. I will say right away that it turned out surprisingly tasty and even beautiful.

So on a saucepan of 1.5 liters.
Fish 300 gr. (portions turned out to be frozen pieces, not to say scraps.)
Grate 1 carrot and fry 1 finely chopped onion in vegetable oil until golden brown. Add fish and fry too. Add 2/3 cup washed rice and heat until translucent. Pour boiling water over and cook until rice is almost done. Add grated tomatoes, skinless plums, garlic. Salt, sugar, spices to taste. I had a hot sweet and sour sauce ready, so I didn't have to peel and grate the plums. Sprinkle the finished soup with finely chopped herbs and put a slice of lemon in a plate

P1010082.JPG
Russian fish soup, fish soups
Crystal
Ear

🔗

for 5 liters of water:
boneless fish - 1-1.5kg
red fish - 300g
potatoes - 500g
onion - 200g
carrots - 1pc medium size
tomatoes - 3pcs
black and allspice peas, bay leaves, salt
greens
vodka - 200ml
Cook the ear over the fire. As soon as the water boils, add the white fish, stir and remove the scale. As soon as the fish is cooked, we take it out and put the red fish. As soon as the fish has boiled, add potatoes, onions and carrots - all finely chopped. As soon as the potatoes are boiled, put the white fish again, add spices, diced tomatoes. Pour out the vodka and when the fish soup boils well, we dip the log into it. For a couple of seconds we admire the beauty of the boil and take out the log. We remove the cauldron from the fire, and pour the soup into plates. Sprinkle with herbs.

🔗

We prepare the log in advance, clean, dry, without any debris, preferably from fruit trees. It needs to be put into the fire when the spices are put in the cauldron, then it will be sufficiently burnt.

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