Table induction hob

In general, what kind of cast-iron pans for induction are we talking about?

All cast iron is suitable for induction, as well as for all other types of stoves.

I have "White Iron" and it does not work.
I looked at the Nevsky pans. there is no indication that for induction.

We have a separate topic for cookware for induction cookers https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=201418.0 I ask you to move there.

For example, on enamelled power it did not drop below 900 W at all, even if you set 120 W, but the pulse mode was always present.

Can you translate for housewives?
How is it - the pulse mode is present, but the power does not drop? Then between what and what are "impulses"?

[Lind @]

Lind @, I already have a second Endever. Power step 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1800, 2000, adjustment with one button "+" or "-", whichever is necessary - decrease or increase. Touch control, there were no sticking buttons, although we live in a village and we have 90s in the socket. We use it very actively, I practically don't use a gas stove on the veranda, that's why everything is on Endever. Sometimes it works without stopping for 6-8 hours. The first one was not sensory, it was more convenient for me, but over time I got used to this.

[Lind @]

Lind @, I use KITFORT KT-106. Power from 200 W to 2000 W, step 200. Adjustable by buttons "+" or "-" or a slider. Temperature range from 60 to 260 ° C in the "Fry" mode. There are built-in programs (Soup, Milk, Frying, Porridge), but I don't use them, I use the basic program, and I customize it according to my needs. The entire control panel is touch-sensitive, convenient. The buttons do not react to splashes and water, the settings do not get lost. All buttons are locked. I often use the sleep timer, I can't imagine my life without it. It is unpretentious to dishes, it even defines a mug with a diameter of 6 cm.

I looked at the Nevsky pans. there is no indication that for induction.

Neva metal has a separate series "Special induction", "Ferra Induction".

Regarding the adjustment of the stove by temperature, it will not work out so directly to draw a parallel, although there is a table. I’m even at a loss whether the temperature setting will correspond to reality. Probably not, because how to explain that at 120 W I had very weak boiling in my cast-iron pan?
As for the electricity consumption for enameled dishes, when setting 120 W, the device periodically showed either 900+, then zero, preventing the water from boiling too much. But the boil was more intense than in a cast iron saucepan, where at 120 watts the consumption dropped to 120 watts. But do not think that all the time it was 120 and zero ... It walks in the range from the same 900 to 120 with a predominance of lower values, periodically turning off completely, as it should be.

[not]

when set to 120 W, the device periodically showed either 900+ or ​​zero, preventing the water from boiling too much. But the boil was more intense than in a cast iron pot, where at 120 watts the consumption dropped to 120 watts. But do not think that all the time it was 120 and zero ... It walks in the range from the same 900 to 120 with a predominance of lower values, periodically turning off completely, as it should be.

Ah, got it. I have not tested consumption on many dishes, only on a stainless steel frying pan the diameter is obviously larger than the coil. Switching was disgustingly standard - between a 5.2 W fan consumption and a minimum coil consumption of 1 kW. It's amazing that your cooker doesn't consume anything at all during the pauses. And the fan? And the control board? Are they feeding on the Holy Spirit?

By the way, why periodically disconnecting completely, as it should be? This is exactly what normal plates do not Supposedly, this is a sign of a purebred "Ketai".)) Full-fledged cookers also switch, but between about three hundred watts and smaller values. As a result, there is no boiling ripple at all, there is just an even quiet boiling.

Exactly voltage jumps, I think, can only be captured by an oscilloscope. I have nothing similar. Zero appeared periodically and values ​​up to 80W, but I did not take them into account, since these are not the declared 120W, which I was looking out for. The valve with the board, I think, should consume 15 watts together (the board takes 25-30 W from the computer, and there are many more, including the dimensions), but it is difficult to catch this when jumping with my device. Turning off at all, I did not put it correctly: I meant just turning off the coils.
I have a household appliance and is absolutely not intended for displaying a rapidly jumping voltage (PM 300 /
🔗). But it gives an idea.

Zero appeared periodically and values ​​up to 80W, but I did not take them into account, since these are not the declared 120W, which I was looking out for.

Well, 120, as I understand it, this is an average consumption, something like "with continuous operation at this power level, the stove will consume 120 watts * hour", and not a one-time value.) That is, it is impossible to see these numbers in principle, except perhaps passing through between others, what equipment do not use. I don't really insist, because I'm not an electrician, but I think something like this.)
There, where the consumption is from a kilowatt and above - there, yes, there the indicators are more or less static.

Some absurdity with these Chinese tiles. Most of the instructions say that after work you need to unplug from the outlet. I bought Oursson and she has the same thing, and if you don't take it out of the socket, the electronics heats up, the bottom is warm. Most of the equipment in the house is able to disconnect from the network without removing it from the outlet, leaving a minimum of consumption in standby mode, and the Chinese cannot figure out how to assemble this scheme for tiles.

the Chinese can't figure out

In fact, Oursson is a Swiss company, the Chinese just stand at the conveyor belt and collect what is ordered.

Some absurdity with these Chinese tiles. Most of the instructions say that after work you need to unplug from the outlet. I bought Oursson and she has the same thing, and if you don't take it out of the socket, the electronics heats up, the bottom is warm. Most of the equipment in the house is able to disconnect from the network without removing it from the outlet, leaving a minimum of consumption in standby mode, and the Chinese cannot figure out how to assemble this scheme for the tiles.

I have Kitfort KT-106, a purebred Chinese. Safety regulations read: "Before cleaning and during prolonged non-use, unplug the stove from the socket." Not a word about regular shutdown after work. I unplug it from the socket only when my bottom (a couple of times the milk "ran away") and when I go on vacation. The rest of the time it is connected to the network. Nothing heats up, neither the electronics nor the bottom. So I support:

the Chinese just stand at the conveyor and collect what is ordered

purebred Chinese

Kitfort is our company, Russian. It's just that it is now profitable for everyone to locate production in China. The Chinese themselves do not change anything in the ordered products, they make something invented and designed by the customer.

Even more: she is St. Petersburg

KitFort is a brand. Yes, Russian. And yes, their head office is located in St. Petersburg. But I very much doubt that the Chinese are making something invented and designed by KitFort employees. KitFort table tiles do not fundamentally differ from similar tiles from other brands. Roughly speaking, the "wheel" has already been invented. I believe that the Chinese are simply given the task of making a certain product at a certain cost. And, if the task is to make the goods cheaper, then the Chinese will make it cheaper, the quality and functionality, of course, will suffer, but not because

the Chinese cannot figure out how to assemble this scheme

, but because they were given the task by the customer company to make "Cheap and cheerful". This is exclusively my opinion and I do not pretend to be true.

In our time, a bunch of pseudo-brands have divorced, which are mowed down as Europeans, but in fact are our compatriots, who do not develop anything and only order equipment in China, or directly they are the Chinese themselves, who bought a license to use brand names that have long died.
At the kitfort, I definitely saw in the instructions an instruction to disconnect the stove from the network after work, but apparently this is not for all models.
By the way, about Kitfort KT-106, look at the tile Supra HS-702I, twins brothers)

By the way, about Kitfort KT-106, look at the tile Supra HS-702I, twins brothers)

Well yes. And it seems that some other model has a double under a different name. Because this is not even close there:

The Chinese themselves do not change anything in the ordered products, they make something invented and designed by the customer.

And there is a Chinese factory (ik), which invented and produces several ready-made models, from which all these "types of brands" buy finished products. Only the nameplate is ordered to change. It seems to be called OEM?
Sometimes it turns out to be much cheaper to buy a product under a native Chinese brand than an overbought one, for example, Midea or Gri. And sometimes vice versa ...))

Actually, Oursson is a Swiss company

Is it? I didn’t know .. I thought I was registered there, but traded only in Russia and the CIS.

Nobody disputes the fact that China has its own local production. But almost all world famous brands are known to manufacture their products there. And the Chinese cannot change the order to their liking, since everything is written down to the last point in agreements and contracts. God forbid the Chinese to deviate from the order at least half a step😳! I have acquaintances whose products are manufactured in China. But what to go far - many remember how Brand made the first in-house smokehouse in Russia in China after the exact data, photographs and instructions for my American one provided by me.

Everything is like this, in China there are small factories for the production of one thing, for example, Gorenje places orders in China https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=731.140
Kitfort robot vacuum cleaner at ILIFE.
That's just at the request of the customer, other components can be installed to reduce the cost or define the goods in another niche. They also release a lot of HP https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=26545.0

A year ago I bought Iplate T18, it seems to work fine, we don't disconnect it from the network - is that bad? What is the threat?

If it is completely disconnected from the network during idle time - practically nothing. If the board remains energized, then the most insignificant is constant watt-hours of electricity wasted in an inoperative state, and the worst can be combustion in the event of some jambs in the power grid. But again, our ovens or multicooker also always shine under a sprinkle, and it seems like nothing ... Although, personally, Shteba giked at me in a state of rest and energized - at night, being plugged into an outlet.

You should probably ask them on their website. In general, what they offer - inspires confidence in me, but what about the rest of this manufacturer? They also have a halogen tile, any dishes are suitable for it.

Please tell me how you can find Steba ik 70 tiles in Moscow? Now I have ik50 - I like it very much, I have been using it for several years! And the coil diameter is normal (pancakes are fried evenly). But there was a crack in the plastic frame. So I wanted the same company, but it was the ik 70 - without a frame and with a sensor. I rummaged through everything, I did not find it anywhere on sale ... Can someone tell me how and where it can be ordered?

Owners of induction cookers, please tell me how true is the information that a liter of water boils in 1 minute? Is it possible, for example, for not quite normal aunts to give up the microwave and reheat food on such a stove in a plate? I understand that it will be longer, but how much longer? Do you use your induction cookers for warming up in bowls? And in general, are there appropriate plates for such stoves, besides pots and pans?
Sorry for stupid questions
Thanks in advance for your answers.

Only in a metal plate, the bottom of which is magnetised.Glass, siphon, faience, ceramics are not heated. Aluminum also does not heat up.

Is it possible, for example, for not quite normal aunts to give up the microwave

Quite normal aunts deliberately refuse microwaves
Warm food in a plate

[Zebra]

Zebra, interesting, considering that the microwave and induction cooker work on the same principle - magnetic induction. WHO generally recommends not to approach a working burner (induction) closer than 30 cm (hands), stand closer than 60 cm and stir with metal objects. There are no precedents, just in case. I read that you can reheat in a double boiler.

And in general, are there appropriate plates for such stoves, besides pots and pans?

Enamelled steel bowl. I heated the soup on gas until the microwave oven.) But for a minute it's not very convenient, it will burn at full power.

Owners of induction cookers, please tell me how true is the information that a liter of water boils in 1 minute?

Table stove Kitfort KT-106 Ultra Slim. Specially detected, exactly 1 liter of cold water from the tap in a bucket ⌀14 cm, covered with a lid, boiled at a maximum power of 2000 W for exactly 5 minutes. I believe that in a pot with a larger diameter, 1 liter of water will boil much faster, since the area of ​​the heated bottom will increase, and the volume of liquid is the same. I can check later, now all the big pans are busy.

Is it possible, for example, for not quite normal aunts to give up the microwave and reheat food on such a stove in a plate? I understand that it will be longer, but how much longer? Do you use your induction cookers for warming up in bowls?

I heat only liquid dishes (soups, borscht). Ordinary enamel bowls are perfect, as described above. If I need to heat three or more servings, then it is easier and faster for me to heat in a ladle and pour them into soup bowls.
Porridge, pasta, potatoes, cutlets, casseroles and so on, I still prefer to heat in the microwave. For example, put potatoes on a plate, a cutlet on top, a couple of minutes and lunch is almost intact. On the stove, this is an extra dirty dishes (frying pan), more time was spent and a completely different taste of the dish (the same mashed potatoes heated in a frying pan has a completely different taste for me). Milk porridge and in general dishes without liquid stick tightly, if you do not use non-stick cookware.
That is, you can easily do without a microwave if you have any cooker, including an induction cooker, but already having a microwave, I would not place high hopes on heating food on an induction cooker.

Table stove Kitfort KT-106 Ultra Slim. Specially detected, exactly 1 liter of cold water from the tap in a bucket ⌀14 cm, covered with a lid, boiled at a maximum power of 2000 W for exactly 5 minutes. I believe that in a pot with a larger diameter, 1 liter of water will boil much faster, since the area of ​​the heated bottom will increase, and the volume of liquid is the same. I can check later, now all the big pans are busy.

It would be interesting to see the continuation of the experiment)
On my crooked Oursson IP 1210 T / BL in a saucepan ⌀18 cm, with the lid closed, 1 liter also starts boiling after exactly 5 minutes. The promised power is also 2000 watts. Perhaps it also depends not only on the diameter, but also on the thickness of the bottom.
It is also important to indicate who understands the word "boil". When small bubbles appeared at the bottom or when a powerful bubbling began. And then I looked in the internet, there is 2 liters of someone already boiling in a minute.



I checked the ladle today, it boils in the same way closer to 5 minutes, when active bubbling already begins, and not just small bubbles.

Table stove Kitfort KT-106 Ultra Slim.

By the way, does it work for you at the first levels after the water has boiled? Mine flatly refuses and starts them only when the pot of water is cold, and if it boils, then it is less than level 5, and sometimes even 6 does not want to turn on and do what you want.

It would be interesting to see the continuation of the experiment)

Alexey, if you're interested, I can't refuse! I promised, then I do!

Perhaps it also depends not only on the diameter, but also on the thickness of the bottom.

For the purity of the experiment, I take three pots of the same ruler of different volumes, that is, the bottom should differ only in diameter.

It is also important to indicate who understands the word "boil". When small bubbles appeared at the bottom or when a powerful bubbling began.

In my understanding, "boiling" is when a powerful seething began. Accordingly, the time for boiling water was counted down to the beginning of this very "powerful boiling".
So, 1 liter of cold tap water boiled in a saucepan with a bottom ⌀14 cm - 5 minutes, ⌀18 cm - 5 minutes, ⌀22 cm - 5 minutes. 10 sec. Alas and ah, my theory was a complete fiasco.

And then I looked in the internet, there is 2 liters of someone already boiling in a minute.

It is quite believable that if someone does not have a desktop, but a built-in full-fledged induction cooker, then I think in the Booster mode, which allows you to fully combine the power of two burners in one, you can achieve an excellent result. In addition, I already wrote that my stove has a zone of active, so to speak, heating with a diameter of only 10 cm.If a full-fledged stove has this heating zone, as promised, about 21 cm, then the heating rate, I think, will increase significantly ... But these are only my thoughts, I do not pretend to be true.

By the way, does it work for you at the first levels after the water has boiled?

Yes it works. I can increase or decrease the heating power at any time, regardless of the boiling of the water. I will even say more, I have a level 5-6 - this is approximately 1 - 1.2 kW, work at these levels is continuous, the boiling is sooo violent, so the soup, for example, after boiling, I cook a maximum of 400 - 600 watts.

Alas and ah, my theory was a complete fiasco.

No, the theory was great. And it would have worked if the heating coil were not so tiny. After all, absolutely any of your saucepans overlapped it with excess, so there simply could not be a shortage of the supplied power.
Now, if a saucepan with a bottom of 7-10 cm was heated, then there could be options.

In addition, I already wrote that my stove has a zone of active, so to speak, heating with a diameter of only 10 cm.If a full-fledged stove has this heating zone, as promised, about 21 cm, then the heating rate, I think, will increase significantly ...

With my Oursson, you can see through the glass with a powerful flashlight that the coil is about 17 cm, put the baking sheet now and looked at the boiling spot, it turned out to be about 14 cm, and the boiling time is similar to yours. Maybe someone’s stove is lying in terms of power. By the way, did they cover the pan with the lid while boiling? Water boils longer without a lid.
Thanks for the experiment, very interesting

Owners of induction tabletop cookers, tell me, why do we need both temperature and power at the same time? If you set the power, the temperature icon is off and vice versa. Does this mean that you need to choose either temperature or power. If the choice is power, then what are the advantages? More precise temperature control or smoother heating? Help, pliz. I have Unold 58105 2000 watts. - 6 power levels with temperature control in 20 gr., Timer + give birth. the control. I would be sooo grateful.

[Aya]

Aya, I have Endever and there somehow it is not at all like that, in the sense that temperatures are not indicated anywhere at all, and I'm used to being guided by power

6 power levels with 20 g temperature control

Nonsense ... 6 levels of 20 grams each give a range of only 100 (or 120?) Degrees. It just can't be.

No, power from 200 to 2000, temperature from 60 to 240. Why power? I thought that you would set the power, temperature and time, but it doesn't work that way. Or temp-ra or power + time to them.

Why power?

Probably a tradition? All cookers have always been power controlled. Except for the simplest ones, where full power was turned on for various periods.Then yes, it would be more correct to say that time management.))

I thought that you would set the power, temperature and time, but it doesn't work that way.

I wonder how it could be? Okay, if you choose high power, there are at least options. And if it's too small?
For example, with a power of 60 W, reach a temperature of 240 g. Mmm?))

Who knows. In general, it is not clear. No one else has any thoughts, why are these 2 options?

Maybe just for different users? Someone is used to focusing on power, and someone on temperature. To make it convenient for everyone - two different units of measurement.
Well, as is often done on the scales. You can weigh in grams, or you can switch to pounds or there ounces.

[SvetaI]

SvetaI, it is logical.
I have a gas stove oven all my life without anything at all - some divisions, a microwave oven - only a percentage of the power. And look for cheat sheets on how to set up to 120 degrees, for example. It's good if you often use it, but if from time to time because the most used is a multicooker where there are degrees and I parallel how much will it be in watts?

Someone is used to focusing on power, and someone on temperature.

Duc to the temperature here is generally a dead room. Where are the sensors?

So it’s about like metabolic age on a smart scale.

Where are the sensors?

Well, manufacturers know what power corresponds to what temperature. So they draw two scales. It was also possible to simply apply certain conventional units, for example, from one to six. This is often done. And in fact, all this, of course, is power.

Owners of induction tabletop cookers, tell me, why do we need both temperature and power at the same time?

It's simple, with a power of, for example, 2000 W, the saucepan will boil in 15 minutes (100 * C) at a power of 1000 W in 35 minutes at a power of 500 W in 50 minutes. According to the intention of the manufacturers, the tile should set and hold no more than, for example, 80 * C, but only in theory, it measures it with a sensor installed not in a pan, but under the glass on the side of the electronics unit, so it turns out very approximately.

Girls, please advise a tabletop induction cooker in a summer kitchen for conservation

kaiser kct 3000 - does anyone have such a tile?
I am looking for reviews, on the Internet there is almost nothing about her.
I need 1komf tiles for the dacha, but I'm looking for the maximum size of the heating zone.

I also saw this:
Galaxy GL3057, it is really 2x comfortable - I'm not critical.
I understand that it is completely China, but suddenly it works well 🤔

Well, if China, this does not mean that it works poorly) We are doing everything in China now ..