Repair bucket Moulinex OW 5002

[Description of the problem:]

Description of the problem:

After a year of operation, the effect of wedging the mixer shaft (only one!) Appeared, which I did not pay much attention to. Just started turning before use. But recently the shaft "jammed" tightly. The preliminary reason is sugar. Probably, the wedge is the consequences of caramelization (sugar "grabbed" with iron like epoxy). I decided to disassemble and make fault detection. And immediately - had two more problems.

1) The shaft is jammed, next to which the spring clip "dangled" (the plate fixed with a screw, see in the figure). This can be seen and influenced the flow of syrup under the gland. I began to tighten the screw with a Phillips screwdriver, tore off the slots, and the screw was tightly jammed. He twisted it with tongs for an hour. He corrected the thread with a tap and almost cut the bottom with its sharp end. If you repeat the experiment, it is advisable to blunt the end of the tap on the sharpener.

2) Then he began to press out the shaft by light tapping. And then I ran into it: it turns out that under the gland rubber on the shaft there is a spring washer and a spring with a diameter of 1.6 mm in the form of a ring. This spring, in a torn form, I squeezed out through the gum gland, tearing it.

Here is a photo of the stirrer assembly:

Shaft and accessories


Half-coupling


PSh node


Stuffing box


Stirrer unit SB

I had no guarantee for the oven. The service does not repair the bucket and does not give advice.

In the reference books - there is no such gland (reinforced cuffs) 8x18x7 version 2 in GOST, but only in DIN (import). I call different rubber companies, that in the nearest access there are other rubber products, but there is no necessary oil seal. Automotive valve stem seals do not fit.

Looking further, I found it. There is a good company, they speak a pure technical language and are willing to help. I grab a bucket and go. Calmly, with fitting, in 15 minutes on a CNC machine for half a million euros, with breakneck speed and precision I grind a seal made of heat-resistant rubber for 160 rubles (120 + 40 per speed). I agree to save the settings on the machine, if someone wants to use this channel, I find out what the guys can send by mail. I go to the store, buy PMS-200 grease (more viscous than PMS-100), grease all the rubbing surfaces of the assembly, collect and bake bread. The only negative is turning - not casting, the surface is rough, sticks a little, I think sunflower oil will help. In this store "CHIP and DIP" (contact - see below) you can order grease by mail. Price -64 rubles.

Photos:

This is our oil seal


And this is he already in the bucket


Grease


Now the main thing:

A preliminary analysis of the bucket design showed the following:

1) The bucket cover is strong enough. If you remove the burnt dough only after soaking it a little in warm water and carefully removing the dough by hand, then the bucket will last long enough to survive the wear and tear of the rotating parts.

2) The shaft and the sliding bearing (p / w) are made of raw steel (I doubt that the p / w is made of gray cast iron, and the shaft is cemented). No grinding, as it is not hot. The backlash is large - thermal compensation.

3) The p / w axis is not coaxial to the axis of the gland bore (probably the gap between the bucket edge and the hole in the p / w area). This means that this compensation is due to the elasticity of the gland gland (the spring ring helps to grip).

4) The spring plates-retainers on the cast part of the bucket are poorly fixed and not centered, then there is a misalignment of the agitator shaft and the drive gear shaft. This is noise and increased wear of the couplings.

5) After reading a piece of the article "Diagnostics of Moulinex Bread Makers" about Mulya in P&C No. 9 p. ("The presence of a toothed belt and large-diameter gear wheels in the mechanical part of the drive degrades the dynamic characteristics of the rotating system. Such a kinematic system is more rigid than the traditional ones used by other manufacturers.It has a less smooth running and increased noise during operation. "), I realized that the location of the mixers is also an important point. If they stand under 90 degrees when moving towards, then at the moment the dough is cut off (when the mixers meet) there will be an impact and microdeformation of the friction pair ...

6) Inspection of the removed shaft (see photo) showed that sticking of caramelized sugar also occurs in the gland area. We have a rotating cam, where through the zones of non-adhesion of the oil seal and the shaft, the syrup goes with a whistle into the hotter zone of p / w. After cooling down - a wedge.

Conclusions:

1) Don't panic!

2) We buy PMS-200 by mail and lubricate the sliding pair before work.

3) Who has a lot of wear - as soon as the bread was taken out - turn the shaft with a stirrer or from below for the coupling. Should help avoid a wedge, especially since the bucket cools down quickly. Please take precautions. The bucket is hot! When the temperature drops (you can touch the bucket), the problem bucket without lubrication can be soaked whole and then, taking warm water, let it work in the kneading mode to dissolve the adhering layer on the shaft and in the gland area. Just don't dip the hot bucket. Spoil the coating.

4) About the lubrication. If PMS isn't available, try Weldtite Teflon Spray (for bikes). It has a great penetrating power, only until it evaporates, it smells harsh.

5) check the fastening of the plates mentioned above. Without fixing, there will be increased wear.

Links:
------------------------------
Polymethylsiloxane fluids
Silicone oil PMS-200 (PET bottle with spout), 20 ml.

Silicone oil (silicone liquid) PMS-200 GOST 13032-77 (CAS No. 63148-62-9)
Designed for lubrication of lightly loaded parts in friction and rolling units in appliances, household and office equipment. In car care products - for lubricating rubber seals, hydrophobic treatment of high-voltage wires and parts.

Absolute inertia.
Separating liquid.
Water repellent.
Appearance: Transparent liquid
Viscosity (in centistokes): 200 cSt
Working temperature: -50 to + 2000C
Volume: 20 ml.
Packing: PET bottle
Packing: 10 pcs. in heat shrink
www .chip-dip. ru / catalog / show / 2198.aspx

Why PMS-100?
Because it is approved for use in the food industry, for example
www. lakmar.com. ua / catalog / use / 9 /

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oil seal manufacturing

SPb, firm "ROST"

www. rost-holding. ru / about /

our R04 profile

www. rost-holding. ru / manufacture / 46 / manufacture92.html

Manager - Pavel (first with him)

Machine operator - Ivan

The sources are on their machine computer

Moulinex \ 5002
two files

bwr04 + r04.PDF
r04 + bwr04.PDF

---------------------------------------------

PS

An untested option for the Samodelkins. I kept it in reserve.

Idea (untested) - for the case when it is urgently necessary to do, but there is no place to take spare parts (manufacturing "on the knee").
Therefore, additions are more appropriate here, but for criticism.

Here we need an EMPTY 16 gauge metal case (accidentally found or donated by a hunter for this occasion, not purchased for storage or other illegal purposes).
Value: thin, strong, suitable bore, base (primer hole) for drilling a center hole.

----------------------

So:

We drill the capsule under the existing long screw and with a file make teeth 0.5-1.0 mm high. Geometry - like a hacksaw blade.

An extreme case is to make notches-teeth with a knife. Do not squeeze the sleeve too much so as not to deform. Insert the flat head screw + washer from the inside, washer + nut from the outside. We are tightening. We get an end mill.

Next, you need a fluoroplastic (aka Teflon). The ideal case is a plate or a sheet. Then we insert our screw into the collet chuck of the drill, and cut it at low speeds. Don't forget about safety precautions.

We release the nut, remove the screw from the collet chuck, push out the cut cylinder and the screw from the sleeve. Again we insert the cylinder into the sleeve until it stops and drill it with the same drill that we used for the primer. Before drilling, we expose the drill to the chuck, so that it goes to the depth of the chuck body + cylinder height - 2 mm. From below we support the cylinder with something when drilling. Next, we push the future oil seal out of the sleeve with the drill shank and drill the hole in the usual way. We have a workpiece with a centered hole.

Further, depending on the obtained height -2 options. We need a height of about 7 mm.If we have a close one, we grind it on a skin or file (put it on a file and grind it). A high column - we put it through the washers on the screw, the screw - into the drill and, like on a lathe, we cut it off with a hacksaw blade for metal. Technology - rotation of the chuck "away from you", either someone holds the drill, or we clamp it, for example, on a board, using the additional handle of the drilling depth limiter.

In the same way, we adjust the diameter and make chamfers using either a small file or a sandpaper wound on a ruler.

The final operation - carefully re-drill the 7.9 mm hole with a new sharp drill.

Fluoroplastic is a plastic material with permanent deformation, so a worn out hole can be restored with a press (bolt, 2 washers and a nut).

------------------------------------

Just in case of fire (TB):

1) when cutting off a knife. the blade should pull away from you, observe the perpendicularity of the cut;
2) do not hold the canvas with your bare hand, wind it;
3) you need to ream from both sides, especially fluoroplastic (so as not to undermine);
4) take your time, or rather choose the outer diameter

-------------------------------
If there is a plate of suitable thickness, then you can:

a) use a "ballerina" or compasses
b) drill, cut with a knife to a polygon and grind (difficulty - you need to hold the file firmly to remove the beats)

--------------------------------------

Such "handicraft" can work long enough to your delight.

-------------------------------------------------------
Addition to the above.

Do not sin on the oil seal if the shaft has an ovality of 0.1 mm or more, or it is offset from the axis of the hole by more than 0.08 mm: cuff leak is inevitable. It will not be eliminated either by polishing the shaft, or by strengthening the pressing of the working edge by additional spring preload (by shortening the turns). Change the hardware!
The culprit for a "bad" seal can be: an annular groove on the shaft (the result of natural wear of the metal) or the restriction of the mobility of the lip of the cuff by the end of the bore. In both cases, move the packing lip along the shaft axis

Read, uraldnepr. ru / publ / 1-1-0-15, correct article. This confirms once again that with our alternating load, the life of the shaft is about 2 years. No oil seal (reinforced cuff), even a new one will not save. Is our seal partially works by itself as a p / w and reduces wear on the shaft (relieves the load by changing the shoulder, remember the resistance). Plus PMS between the sealing lips. Therefore, we do not have repairs, but modernization.

Write if you have questions.

Good luck!

[sid2857]

sid2857 There is a slightly better lubricant than PMS, this is Shin Etsu G-501 80g 900 rubles (for thermal films) Canon CK-0551-020 20g 800 rubles (for thermal films) You can buy or ask in S / C for copier repair.
As a last resort, silicone fuser oil (Katun) (1000 ml / fl) is 500 rubles, but it is liquid. Silicone should be high temp white.
Here are the tips 🔗
🔗
🔗
these 🔗 at 26.21ue
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=32099.0
IMHO Successful repairs and long-term reliable operation of HP

Thanks a lot for your work and message.
There is a non-working bucket from an old bread machine. I'll try to recover.
I would like more such messages

[sid2857]

sid2857 Low-harmful in translation "with little harm" to health,
still from there
SECTION 11. TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION
SKIN IRRITATION:
Patch Test (24Hr / Open): Almost Negative (1%)
EYE IRRITATION:
No evidence of eyes irritation
ACUTE TOXICITY (LD50):
LD50 (Oral / Mouse):> 18g / kg
ACUTE TOXICITY (LC50):
No information is available.
CHRONIC TOXICITY:
No information is available.
CARCINOGENICITY:
NTP: Not listed, IARC: Not listed, OSHA REGULATED: Not listed
OTHER INFORMATION:
None
and you also need to take into account the fact that there will be no direct contact with food. And to find a lubricant of this class is easier than PMS.
About PMS: Permission for use in the food industry was obtained for liquids PMS-200, 300 and for emulsion based on PMS-400.
🔗

Already typing the first post for my father. The bucket began to junk, the oil seal burst during disassembly. So for the "homemade" idea, let's too!
I have never been to St. Petersburg, I want to go very strongly (someday), but so that it is right behind the oil seal ...

[sid2857]

sid2857, give your repairmen an idea to make oil seals for other bread makers, especially since they accept orders on the Internet
and are sent all over Russia ...

And here's another - "Spare parts and accessories for Moulinex Bread Makers" -
🔗

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have the same problem and the oil seal fell off, I thought I'd have to buy a new bucket.
Now I would like to figure out the address. Found a company, but what kind of Pavel? Please indicate your last name and it would be nice to have a specific phone number, since there are several addresses and a bunch of phones.

Petersburg phones GROWTH:

703-12-21 703-13-19 703-13-26

Pavel Kozlov
his mob. telephone:

8(911)700-11-55

He is aware of the issue.Refer to him.

[On the bucket question:]

On the bucket question:

SS-186082 Moulinex OW2000 Bread Maker Bucket



SS-185950 Moulinex OW3000 Bread Maker Bucket



SS-186157 Bucket for Moulinex Bread Makers OW5000, OW5002, OW5004


On the question of oil seals:

Moulinex



Lg



Hitachi



Sizes we until don't know

Spare parts:

_https: //Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/s-image/3002/seek_model.php? id = 533 & zzz = 38 & fir = 47

Kiev, Vyshgorodska 50
_

_
_

🔗, this is one concern, tobto a group of companies

Just sorted it out at work with the men .. Well what can I say ..
The quality of the material is very good, there was a little accumulation of dirt under the oil seal, and so the mating of the parts is so tight that it became a question of whether lubrication was needed at all.
A small portion of VD40 instantly removed the scale and everything began to spin easily, wiped it dry with a hoe and the mustache in order.
We did not dare to knock out the second mixer, since it is really possible to damage the spring that presses the inner diameter, we cost VD40.
Now I'm waiting for the water while the turner carves the fluoroplastic bushing. You need to think about how to put it in the groove, it's not as elastic as a rubber oil seal.

[Try this:]

Now I'm waiting for the turner to grind the fluoroplastic bush. You need to think about how to put it in the groove, it's not as elastic as a rubber oil seal.

Try this:

The boring will make the bead more elastic.

Dear sid2857
What about graphite grease? Can I apply it?

[Makhno]

Makhno All these greases burn, you need silicone grease, for example Canon CK-0551-020 20gr 800rub (for thermal films) Buy or to ask it is possible in S / C for the repair of copiers.
In an extreme case, silicone fuser oil (Katun) (1000 ml / fl.) 500 rubles is suitable, but it is liquid. Silicone should be high temp white.
Here are the tips 🔗
🔗
🔗
these 🔗 at 26.21ue
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...ion=com_smf&topic=32099.0
IMHO Successful repairs and long-term reliable operation of HP

I agree with the dear sazalexter.
I contacted CHIP and DIP via ICQ, they send only within Russia. This is probably due to cash on delivery.
But if there are acquaintances with the ability to send you a parcel, then here is a link to mail rates. It seems not expensive.

_

But it’s probably easier to get grease for office equipment on the spot.

I will probably stop all the same on the silicone lubricant-spray.
It is on sale freely, and how much of it is there ...

I've already done everything. The turner made me out of fluoroplastic. While the flight is normal

I've already done everything. The turner made me out of fluoroplastic. While the flight is normal

As far as I know, he is "soft" in fluoroplastic, use it, then tell us how he behaved.

The seeker will find. Dear Makhno-molodchina. And then 2000 views, but only one patriot wrote that he brought our idea to the result. Hey, dear members of the forum, please be more active.

PS

Teflon is soft, but greasy - it glides well. The bucket will last for a century. In addition, it can be reanimated by compression.

Why only "one patriot brought the idea to the end"? I, now, have already opened a new Temka, for the suffering, we are already repairing it in full, we will help everyone who cannot themselves!

Then thanks!

_

just now people posted
p. 55

Read, thank, but do not blast the link or comment.

PS

Than to read:
_

[sid2857]

sid2857 Cool! That would be more information on other HP
It is practically absent Here on the site there is only a manual for SD-207 and that's it ...

Found in the same place. Catch

Automatic bakery "LG HB-152CE"
No. 12 2006 p. 36

Automatic bakery "Bifinet KH2231"
No. 8 2008 p. 52

_
Click on the number and the download will start
Than to read, see above

It took 2 years and I got a problem. : '(The gasket between the nuts was worn out. At first I thought that it was grain debris with grease accumulated, and then I looked closely, and everything crumbled there. I crumbled these remnants, and now the shaft is loose and fluid leaks. Is it possible to somehow painlessly untwist this structure and put a gasket there? (it resembled the one put in a water tap).

The gasket between the nuts is worn out.

And I would be glad to help, but did not quite understand. Are these "nuts" on our photos?

How does it dangle, top-down or sideways? It is important. Maybe "nuts" are three rivets, and "grain trash - the remains of an oil seal" (we have a picture of "Oil seal").

Ask a man to help you describe the problem.

How is the teflon bucket surface?

Does it make sense to repair?

Write

Yes, the fact of the matter is that in the photo among the disassembled parts, I do not see this gasket. I didn't quite put it right - there is a rotating blade under the bucket (as in the photo), 3 washers (also like in the photo), and between them there was a black (about 1.5 mm) layer. Now it is gone and, accordingly, the pin on which the mixer is put on goes up and down (not to the sides). The bucket is in good condition. Light scratches only around the circumference where the blade rotates. I would have touched him again.

Z. Y. The problem is that the man will be tomorrow, which is why I myself speak so clumsily.

Well, I think I understand.

First, we determine the thickness taking into account wear. Columbus is needed for accuracy.



If not. I looked at myself, the thickness on the eye is 0.5-0.7 mm. If it is too thick, it can be carefully removed on a fine skin.

Material. Copper will wear off quickly. Better bronze, brass. If you will not find it, put the usual steel. Nothing will be wrong. Not the same speed, load and operating time. Will work.

Good luck!

Yes, 0.5 - 0.7 mm! That is, no heat-resistant rubber is needed there, can you grind (or pick up) a similar washer from bronze / brass? Thank you

[Specialists on sites, please respond !!!]

Specialists on sites, please respond !!!

I type in Yandex in the search bar:

Moulinex bucket

the very first link is ours:

Moulinex bucket new life -. Bakery products. Bread recipes.
Panasonic SD-255. New life for the Moulinex bucket. "Reply # 2: 02 January 2010, 19:47:20" Thank you very much for your work and message. There is a non-working bucket from an old bread machine. I'll try to restore it. I would like more such messages.

We click on the link, and we come to another place.

True, at the very beginning, I made a mistake and pressed the button to delete the first post (I edited it several times), then I restored it. Maybe the admin panel is buggy?

[sid2857]

sid2857 With this problem here https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=95.0

As far as I know, he is "soft" in fluoroplastic, use it, then tell us how he behaved.

No. I have not soft but hard and white

P.S. By the way, fluoroplastic does not hold grease, it is better not to put anything at all. Slipping is already normal.

PTFE does not hold grease, it is better not to put anything at all. Slipping is already normal.

I completely agree. Right.

A friend of mine handed over a Moulinex bucket to the service center under warranty in mid-December.

We still have to wait, they say in Moscow vedra Moulinet.

You have an ambush in Moscow! Before the new year, I noticed a cracked gum in a bucket, I decided to change it. I came to the service, they without words accepted the old bucket, gave out a new one. By the way, not with thermorezin gaskets, but with fluoroplastic bushings.
Tula service is the most service for Mulinex! Thanks to them!

You have an ambush in Moscow!

Everything is more complicated. This is their ambush. We are St. Petersburg.

Can you post an enlarged photo of the new oil seal?

[sid2857]

Not even two years have passed for me: today the shaft (the pin on which the blade is held) fell out of the bucket! In my opinion, it is the spring washer under the rubber gland, on which the shaft is held, ground off or broken. When I insert the bucket into the x \ p, the shaft falls down 8 mm and the grease begins to gradually fall into the dough.
sid2857, can you tell me what ??

[sid2857]

Not even two years have passed for me: today the shaft (the pin on which the blade is held) fell out of the bucket! In my opinion, it is the spring washer under the rubber gland, on which the shaft is held, ground off or broken. When I insert the bucket into the x \ p, the shaft falls down 8 mm and the grease begins to gradually fall into the dough.
sid2857, can you tell me what ??

If the shaft falls down, then the thrust washer is worn out and broken.

Here is a photo of this washer from our bread machine



Below is a picture from the sizing guide.



At one time I was not too lazy to make a drawing of the shaft, so our washer will be # 7 (line 5 from the top). The shaft has a diameter of 8mm.

Where to find.

Shop, repair of radio equipment, flea market, from an old tape recorder

"Shake" your acquaintances "Kulibins", they definitely have.

How to insert.

First you need to remove the cuff and clean the inside of the chips.

The cuff is tight enough and there is a high risk of tearing. It is necessary to handle it carefully and have the skill to "feel" the material.

If there is no professional tool, then a strip 5 mm wide and 10 cm long can be cut out of tin. Bend it in half, and bend the ends of 3 mm to the sides 90 degrees. Remove burrs. You will get a puller. Spread the ends to the sides. Squeezing, insert it inward under the oil seal and pull it up. Change the position of the effort. If you act carefully, then everything should turn out OK.

It is important to remember that the force is large and the rigidity of the puller must be appropriate.

If the puller is unbending at the bottom, do not risk it. Make a new one or you will tear the cuff.

Good luck !!!

Everything is more complicated. This is their ambush. We are St. Petersburg.

Can you post an enlarged photo of the new oil seal?

No, I'm afraid to shoot. How it breaks - I'll put it

No, I'm afraid to shoot. How it breaks - I'll put it

No need to shoot. Just a big photo. For now, this is enough for understanding.

No need to shoot. Just a big photo. For now, this is enough for understanding.

Tell me how to insert an image into the text. Add. options don't work.

Not difficult

https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=30280.0

I use it myself. Fast and convenient

Not difficult



The idea is simple - a fluoroplastic bushing, and on top of the tension is attached by a metal coupling, which presses the fluoroplastic to the shaft.

The idea is simple - a fluoroplastic bushing, and on top of the tension is attached by a metal coupling, which presses the fluoroplastic to the shaft.

Thank you. Very interesting.

Unfortunately, the thickness of the PTFE sleeve is not visible.

Is it visible, or is it larger and is covered by a stamped part from above?

Outwardly, this design is more similar to the Moulinex OW3000 (Kenwood BM250). There, only a PTFE washer covering the oil seal is less than a mm thick. I also imagined the sleeve, I pressed it this way and that - it did not help

Thank you. Very interesting.

Unfortunately, the thickness of the PTFE sleeve is not visible.

Is it visible, or is it larger and is covered by a stamped part from above?

I looked at it - it is in size with the stamped part (minus the thickness of the stamping walls), that is, more than is visible. As far as I understand, stamping is in order to protect the fluoroplastic and prevent falling out. Pressed (stamping) into the bucket body.

[v_v_su]

v_v_su It is very similar to good work "on bugs", the node is clearly redesigned, it seems to be made soundly. True, I have not yet seen such products made of fluoroplastic in the bourgeoisie 4

[Look at page 2]

I'm not sure until the end, but it looks like the OW3000 has been made with a PTFE bushing before.

Look at page 2

SS-185950 Moulinex OW3000 Bread Maker Bucket

But in another place I found



This means they have different options for buckets with one stirrer and two.

We should check it out!

I'm not sure until the end, but it looks like the OW3000 has been made with a PTFE bushing before.
We should check it out!

"Everything has already been stolen before us ..." There is an ordinary oil seal covered with a thin fluoroplastic ring. Fluoroplastic, as a material for the HP sleeve, has one significant drawback - it is not elastic enough. The blade creates an uneven load on the shaft and the sleeve will expand very quickly.

[Look at page 2]

I'm not sure until the end, but it looks like the OW3000 has been made with a PTFE bushing before.

Look at page 2

SS-185950 Moulinex OW3000 Bread Maker Bucket

But in another place I found


We should check it out!

This means they have different options for buckets with one stirrer and two.

She is the most. Only, respectively, two agitators and two sleeves.

By the way, answering the fact that it will supposedly expand - I'm not sure. I bake bread almost every day - I haven't noticed any noticeable degradation.

[Description of the problem:]

Description of the problem:

Here is a photo of the stirrer assembly:

Shaft and accessories


Good luck!

You can clarify the following points: where do you put the snap ring and the second lock washer?