Multi-cooker-pressure cooker-slow cooker Steba DD1 Eco

They sent me MVideo, told me to contact the service and provide them with an act ... some kind of nonsense. They just brought it yesterday! Does anyone have direct contacts of the service?

They sent me MVideo, told me to contact the service and provide them with an act ...

Wow ... It seems that the law on consumer protection has a direct text that it is at the owner's discretion where to go - at least to the service, at least to the store. And let the store go further wherever it wants. Heavy equipment, even from home at their own expense, must be taken and replaced.)

But I would still like to understand - what if you can somehow adapt? Maybe eighty degrees would be enough? Here, for some people, even at a pressure of 0.3, the valve did not rise every time and the porridge boiled, but how about you.

[Bijou]

Bijou, I only need one program and I don’t want to adapt ... I even just poured some water ... set it to 80 (it does not give below)! Everything boiled in 10 minutes and whistled

[Tortured]

I don't need this pressure at all

Tortured, I don’t understand ... why then did they take such a unit, which is "sharpened" to work under pressure? This is a SKIER, which by itself means cooking SOON, which means, under pressure. And the jellied meat will be cooked in 2-3 hours, if you do it under pressure ("meat" program). Why do you need to drive it for 10 hours? It's not just a saucepan on the stove for 10 hours ...

Or maybe they have free electricity, and the gas, on the contrary, is gold ...
Well, I'm just kidding ...
And so, yes, everyone has their own cockroaches ...

[Tortured]

Tortured, can describe step by step what and how you are doing and with the photo, if possible. It seems to me that you are setting something wrong.

[Tortured]

But at 95 I was planning to cook jellied meat for 10 hours. Shouldn't she cook under pressure?

Tortured, in principle, if only jellied meat, then it can be cooked in the Meat mode under 0.7 pressure for 2.5-3 hours. Everything boils well! Under pressure, everything cooks about 3 times faster.
The Simmering mode should work at 80 * C without pressure and certainly not boil at such a temperature. Strange ... after all, probably a marriage. Just in case, describe in detail what sequence you press, so it is easier to understand what is wrong if these are problems on the part of the user, and not the multicooker!

Moreover, M-Video definitely should have accepted the goods from you, if there is a defect. Call them on the hotline at 8-800 and complain that the store does not accept. I handed over the marriage to them a year ago, the store immediately accepted

I bought this unit because it has a steel bowl. It's important to me. Any non-stick coating is not safe. But I do not want to argue on this topic. Also, during prolonged cooking, collagen is released from the bones, which is very useful. To do this, you need to cook the broth for 12-24 hours at 90 degrees. Bone broth. Not meat. So I bought this device, damn it. I'll try to take a photo later. I put food in the bowl (I've tried buckwheat, just water, and meat). I close it. The black valve is turned to an empty round. I set the pace to 80 grams and 4 hours. In 20 minutes everything is ready. Splashes from under the valve for the last 15 minutes. On the screen, the pace is 33-35, it is boiling inside. You turn the valve - sooooo much steam comes out. All 4 times that I tried - so.

Here is the best jellied meat, tested more than once !!!
The "Soup" program, the maximum time on this program is 1 h 39 min ...
Everything is boiled down as it should !!!
Ideally!!!

Jellied meat in a multicooker-pressure cooker Steba DD1 ECO

[Seven-year plan]

Seven-year plan, Thank you! I'll hand it over today in mvideo, all the same I want all the programs to work normally - not to adapt ...

[Tortured]

Tortured! Naturally - this is your marriage!
But you don't need to be offended by the pressure cooker !!!
Everyone has a defective percentage ... but Shteba has a very small one! ...
Basically - a hard worker plows, tirelessly !!! ...

Maybe someone had such a problem. Every time I turn on my Shteba, when heated, steam comes out from the second valve, which should be closed with a curtain, and the pressure cooker does not gain pressure. I take off the cover, put it on again, everything is ok, the cover instantly locks. I’m standing over it all the time, waiting for the lid to be removed and put on.
What could be the reason?

[Valeria]

Valeria, according to the description, something with a valve ...
Look, maybe he doesn't walk freely, or the rubber band doesn't sit evenly ...
In general, this valve does not immediately rise - it still hovers for 30-40 seconds ... until the steam gains strength, what would it raise it! ...

[Tortured]

I bought this unit because it has a steel bowl. It's important to me

Tortured, that is, you need, in principle, not a pressure cooker, but just a multicooker, but with a stainless steel bowl?

If 14 days have not passed since the date of purchase, then the M-Video website indicates that the product can be repaired, replaced or money can be returned for it.
Maybe then it is better to hand over to the Shteb as a marriage and buy another multicooker, and buy a steel bowl for it? After all, with Stebik, almost all modes are sharpened like pressure cookers, under pressure. If this does not suit you, why torture yourself?
I bought myself a "stainless" bowl for another CF on the multi-bowl website. ru (bowls NEC). The series is called Eco. Now, by the way, there is still a discount for them, 4-5-6 liters go for 690 rubles. There is a compatibility plate for the bowls, so you can choose which MV you like and buy a steel bowl on this website for it.
I used this for more than a year, until I changed the MV for Shtebik, and everything was fine with the bowl, it did not rust, did not oxidize, there were almost no scratches.

If 14 days have passed since the date of purchase, then in the event of a marriage, MV only repairs, but it can be handed over to a retail store (this is indicated on their website), and any, not necessarily the one where you bought it. Then they can keep them for 45 days. If the service center recognizes a defect that cannot be repaired, then you can write an application for a refund and the store must return the money. If repaired, Shtebik will return back to you and may still make friends ...

[Valeria]

when heated, steam comes out of the second valve, which must be closed with a curtain, and the pressure cooker does not gain pressure.

Valeria, any action takes time, and this valve, correctly writes Seven-year plan, closes after a short period of time. If this happens for you much longer, then ... perhaps the valve is simply clogged with drops of fat, microparticles of food. And he must move freely in his hole. Need to open disassemble valve, rinse and replace.

[VRad]

the valve does not immediately rise - for 30-40 seconds it still hovers from it ... until the steam gains strength, so that it can be lifted! ...

Yes, I also have some time before the float closes; soars, soars, and then clap - and rose!
VRad, Valeria, but try not to remove / put on the lid, but to do so - after the steam starts to go from the small hole for the float, wait a little (10-20-30 seconds), make sure that the float is not going to rise and block the lid, then sharply press the cover with both hands (push down). It didn’t help, push it once or twice. In theory, the float should bounce up without "remove / put on the lid". At least that's what happens to me
Try to take a closer look at the part of the float on the inside of the lid, press on it. Maybe the fat stuck there and that's why it kind of sticks and can't jump right away? Or is there something else that interferes with the free run, maybe rubbing against something?

VRad, Valeria, but try not to remove / put on the lid, but do so - after the steam starts to go from the small hole for the float, wait a little (10-20-30 seconds), make sure that the float is not going to rise and block the lid , then sharply press the cover with both hands (push it down). It didn’t help, push it once or twice. In theory, the float should bounce up without "remove / put on the lid". At least that's what happens to me

What's the point?
The valve should close without our participation, even if you take it off or push it, it shouldn't be that way. We have to look at what interferes with the float.
Try to replace the O-ring before closing the cover. Tighter to the lid, or something. It was so with me. The ring did not fit tightly into place and the valve did not close.

[Seven-year plan]

Seven-year plan, Ilmirushka, lana light, Thank you!
I looked again, just in case. He walks freely, nothing stuck, the elastic sits exactly. From the top side of the lid, I would wash it, but how to do it. But, most importantly, nothing interferes with its free movement.
There is no talk about 30_40 seconds. If nothing is done from it, the steam will fall until the water is completely boiled away. You can of course try to push the lid down. But I have the impression that something happens at the moment the cover is turned and closed. Cold one, hot another. Because when “changing clothes”, the lid instantly locks, even before the boil starts, if steam simply forms.
I checked the ring, dressed normally.
I thought suddenly someone came across this. I did not master 500 pages.

[Valeria]

Valeria, I don't remember exactly how it was with me, whether it was, because at first everything is interesting and unidentified. You don't know how it should be. But I always follow the O-ring, before closing the lid, I must correct it in the same way as Rick-Zhenya. And flush the valve ... no problem, I periodically cover having a bath day I do general cleaning, soak, wash and scrub to the original shine, disassemble both valves, clean with toothpicks, dry. Then everything is in reverse order. And everything works great. Valeria, good luck!

disassemble both valves

Oh, and more on that, please. Or maybe a link if possible. I got the impression that this shut-off valve is non-separable. Regulatory (black) yes, I clean it periodically.
And my cover

[Valeria]

Valeria, here in this thread there is a detailed photo
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=362654.0

[Yulchik]

Yulchik, Thanks for the link, otherwise my eyes are already slipping.

[julia_bb]

julia_bb, Thank you. However, realizing that he understands, I found more detailed instructions with a photo.

[VRad]

VRad, you just have low voltage. The liquid heats up so slowly that all the accumulated steam has time to fly out into the valve hole. That is, its excess is not formed in order to actively push the valve. A great tip is to actively slam the lid with your hands to make the valve bounce. I do not know how else you can deal with this. And the pressure was not chosen by chance 0.3?

Oh no, I know! When the valve already starts to float, instead of removing the lid, try to pry the valve with something (usually a wooden Chinese stick) and hold it for a while so that steam accumulates. Checked, it helps.

[Bijou]

Bijou, Thank you. My tension is normal. Yes, I do not bother changing the cover. Slap on the cover, pry off the valve, remove the cover - put it on. All the same, these are dances with tambourines. It is interesting to understand the reason.
I'll try: 1. disassemble the valve 2. change the ring (oh, suddenly!)
And then I'll report back. Only it won't be tomorrow.

Great advice is given - actively slam on the lid with your hands so that the valve bounces

I usually do that. If at the moment when I'm in the kitchen steam starts to flow out of the valve, to speed up the process, I press the lid with my hands, and it closes

The black valve is turned to an empty round. I set the pace to 80 grams and 4 hours

This means the valve is open.Did you set the pressure to 0.3? It seems to me that if your pressure is set to 0.7, it will still be partially recruited and the temperature will be higher, although the valve is not closed

Yes, I do not bother changing the cover.

Well, okay. And it strains me. Because in such cases, very often the vaporization is so active that the lid does not fasten and the valve will still have to be heated with a stick. IMHO, it's better to lift it with it on the closed lid - there are fewer body movements.

But you puzzled me about the voltage, I have such tricks only when the network is below 220. And when 230-235, the float jumps in.

It seems to me that if your pressure is set to 0.7,

Well, what is the pressure if languor and set to 80 degrees ??

Great advice is given - actively slam on the lid with your hands so that the valve bounces
I usually do that. If at the moment when I'm in the kitchen steam starts to flow out of the valve, to speed up the process, I press the lid with my hands, and it closes

Yes, it is definitely easier than putting it on. I will try EVERYTHING !!!

[Valeria]

Valeria, after all, the action "remove the lid and put it back on" is not safe. I remember once a couple of times I had doubts about the untimely closing of the valve, so I just made a TYPE attempt to open the lid by turning it literally a couple of millimeters from a stationary position, and immediately returned it to its place - this is literally a second and the valve slammed shut. That is, the pressure in the bowl was already accumulated, but something was interfering with the valve, one small push and the problem was self-destructed. And you open it directly ... and there is already pressure, isn't it scary that a fountain will pour?

And you just open it ... and there is already pressure, isn't it scary that a fountain will pour?

If there is pressure, then the lid is tightly closed, blocked. You will open figs, but you can pour hot steam, of course

[Ilmirushka]

Ilmirushka, I probably did not explain well. My valve does not hold at all. T e raising my hand, I feel the flow of warm air even before the water boils. And usually at this time I take off and put on. And if the water boils, steam comes out of it already visible. Obviously, the lid is closed tightly and this hole is the only outlet for steam.
And further. The cold cap is easy to put on, effortlessly. And to close the hot one, you need to apply some force.
Unfortunately, today I will not have time at all. And tomorrow I will disassemble the valve (I did not know that it understands :)) and wash it.

The black valve is turned to an empty round.

It confused me too. It is necessary to turn to the black round. And then see how it works.

[VRad]

Quote: Tortured from Yesterday at 1:23 pm The black valve is turned on an empty round. It confused me too. It is necessary to turn to the black round. And then see how it works

Oh, exactly! Semen Semenych! An empty circle is the valve (big black) is open! You need to turn the valve tail on the black circle! Empty - pressure is not accumulated, black - for working under pressure, as in photo # 4 in Masha's post (top view):
Multi-cooker-pressure cooker-slow cooker Steba DD1 Eco # 1
VRad , that's why the pressure wasn't building up! Try turning the valve like in this photo and once again run some program under pressure. I think it should work!

[Sveta]

Sveta, is not a fact. And what shows 33 degrees, but boiling inside?

Late last night I tried to unscrew the nut of this second valve, and then got scared and returned it to its place. She looked thoughtfully at the brown O-ring and changed it to a new one. Today I just turned it on with water - everything is fine, it keeps the pressure. Of course, I should try again.
If the case was in the ring, then the physics of this case is incomprehensible to me. The ring seals the perimeter of the cover, the valve is lifted by the pressure. No steam came out from under the lid.
Or maybe I "successfully" moved the nut. I'll have to live with the new ring and if everything is ok, try again with the old one.

[VRad]

VRadWell, it's good that Shteba is working! Even if it's not very clear why ...
The main thing is the result!

Well. Cooking today. Everything is as before, the same guitar ...
I waited a long time, I thought that the valve would rise. And when steam had already gone out of the hole, she pressed, banged, etc. All the Tips in turn.
Nothing helped. She turned it away, lifted it, wrapped it up with effort. All OK.
okay. The main thing is what works

[VRad]

VRad, damn! What does she want ?!

Hello girls! Please share your advice and experience. Recently I became the happy owner of the shteba while I am studying it. But there are a couple of misunderstood points. 1-stainless steel bowl looks different from the photo on the box. In the photo there is a bowl with a knocked-out volumetric graduation, and I have only one maxi-pattern and that's it. When I insert it into the inner bowl, it spins freely, does not sit close, so when I fry there are inconveniences, it seems to walk around its axis, I even have to hold it with my hand. That is how it should be? It seems that this is as if a non-native bowl. The second question is again about the cup. I cooked corn porridge, it burned strongly to the bowl (I cooked on the "porridge" mode for 15 minutes at 0.3 bar. I am confused by the information that the inner part of the bowl is made of stainless steel. And the outer part? I knocked on the bottom, it seemed to me that the bottom was not made of stainless steel, as if there was a void there, maybe aluminum? .. It turns out, after a fierce cleaning bowls to holes, can you tear off a layer of stainless steel? ((And the third question - at the first turn-ons there was a pungent strong smell from the heating element on the inner bowl. On the second day it is not so strong, tolerable. I just read here on the forum that there is no smell at all , so it confused me. Did anyone have this and did the smell pass afterwards? Thank you very much!

and I have only one max-max and that's it.

I think this is just a bowl of the new issue. And why are you so cruel to her - with an IRON sponge (!), You could just soak it with water, everything would go away. And how do you imagine that the bowl standing in place does not move around its axis? There are no clamps, there is a bowl and everything you need to twist it ... What are you tapping in it? The bottom is multi-layered, I don't really care what is inside, the main thing is what cooks well. And porridge - I cook side dishes in another bowl with a nonstick, which I bought additionally for cereals, meat and vegetables. In stainless steel I cook first courses, compotes, that is, liquid. It is normal to smell when first turned on. Didn't you feel such smells in other units? This is elementary, the factory grease burns.

[Marina]

1-stainless steel bowl looks different from the photo on the box. In the photo there is a bowl with a knocked-out volumetric graduation, and I have only one maxi-pattern and that's it.

Marina, but it didn’t affect cooking. So that I would not care what is knocked out there.

When I insert it into the inner bowl, it spins freely, does not sit close, so when I fry there are inconveniences, it seems to walk around its axis, I even have to hold it with my hand. That is how it should be?

Yes, it should be so.

It seems that this is as if a non-native bowl.

Dear bowl, dear.

I cooked corn porridge, it burned strongly to the bowl (I cooked on the "porridge" mode for 15 minutes at 0.3 bar.

For cereals, baking, etc., you need to buy a bowl with a non-stick coating.

I am confused by the information that int. part of the bowl is made of stainless steel. And the external one?

Also made of stainless steel. I really didn't bother with this question. MVS prepares well, what else is needed.
The grease will burn and everything will be fine.

Has anyone had this and did the smell pass afterwards?

[marina0331]

marina0331, Marina! Everything with your cartoon is in perfect order, it is just sold in a basic configuration with one bowl, the main one, made of stainless steel.But two additional bowls are sold to it, which most often are not included in the main kit, as this will make the price of the multicooker more expensive. But you definitely need to buy an additional bowl, it is difficult to cook without it. But to add. nothing burns in the bowl, it is teflon-coated, needed for baking, frying, stewing. I most often just use it.
There are also bowls with a ceramic coating, but this is already bought later if necessary. You can safely do without ceramics, besides, it is subject to fairly quick deterioration, after about a year and a half, it begins to stick to it.
And the bowl must move in the multi body, do not worry. When stirring food in the bowl, hold the bowl with your hand in a silicone mitten or with a cloth by the edge.

[Ilmirushka, Natalia K., Masha Ivanova,]

Ilmirushka, Natalia K., Masha Ivanova, thank you very much for your answers! now I calmed down) Yesterday I cooked jellied meat, everything turned out so great !! But at night I decided to put milk to languish, for the second time I try. The baked milk was very tasty for the first time. But today I open the lid and the milk smells like ... meat broth (Although I washed the bowl well yesterday, I washed the lid, the only silicone ring, but the broth smell remained. Maybe the valve had to be washed somehow? Do I need to disassemble it and wash? Or could there be such a smell from the ring?

But today I open the lid and the milk smells like ... meat broth (Although I washed the bowl well yesterday, I washed the lid, the only silicone ring, but the broth smell remained. Maybe the valve had to be washed somehow? Do I need to disassemble it and wash? Or could there be such a smell from the ring?

The ring absorbs odors. If possible, it would be good to buy a second ring. You will use one for soups and main courses, and the other for everything else.

[Marina]

from the ring

Marina, everything is correct, from the ring. I also have a spare. That is, there are different rings for different dishes. Well, I also periodically disassemble and wash the valves.

[Gingi]

Gingi, Ilmirushka, yes, there was a second ring in the kit. It turns out that one will be for soups-meat-vegetables, and the second-for dairy products-cereals-baking? Thank you very much for your advice! Even today I read the instructions closely, and was upset (It turns out that there is no timer delay on the DD1 model? The instructions contain a text about this timer, but in fact there are no "clock" buttons on the case. I opened the instructions in German and English, there is not a word about delayed start. It turns out that the translation in Russian is incorrect. And I was counting on this timer for cooking porridge in the morning, the family is big, there is no time at all in the morning to cook (Girls, advise how to be now? Is it possible to cook porridge on languor all night 6-8 o'clock then? Or, for example, set the languor for 2 hours, and then it goes into heating mode and will warm up until the morning? The main thing is that the porridge does not burn to the stainless bowl (maybe grease the bowl with oil first?) there was no bowl in the set. But, to be honest, I chose this particular model because of the stainless steel, I don't relate very well to Teflon. Ceramics seems to be more environmentally friendly. But many girls write that it quickly fails (I thought what ker is the amic bowl made of clay? And still, if you scratch her, nothing bad will happen? Correct me, please, if this is not the case. Or does the manufacturer still use some kind of coating sprayed onto the ceramics? Thanks again for the answers! I am so glad that you can find out about everything from experienced housewives here on the bread maker's website!

I thought the ceramic bowl was made of clay?

Not a ceramic bowl, but a coating of the so-called. ceramic, non-stick. The bowl itself is aluminum.
Our multi has two versions of bowls with non-stick coating, ceramic and Teflon. I have it with Teflon, I cook porridge and bake in it, nothing burns. Then I just put it in a container, and the bowl is free and more convenient to store, it takes up less space in the refrigerator.

[Marina]

no timer delay on DD1? The instructions contain a text about this timer, but in fact there are no "clock" buttons on the case.

Marina, I never use a delayed start, and I have not even tried it - there is no need. But now I went and looked, there is a "clock" icon on the board right in the middle of the board. I thought it was just not a valid icon, but no (!), There is a button and it is pressed. I'll have to try it on some program. Girls who have tried, please respond! I can't say anything about ceramic bowls, I don't have them. But this is not ceramics in the usual sense, there is a ceramic coating.