CrenDel
Quote: Mandraik Lyudmila

What are your suspicions based on, justify, please.
In the new HP, I first poured water, and then everything else, and after 7-8 months of operation, creaks of the blade drive unit appeared. And at the end of the warranty period, this unit had to be disassembled, since the blade rotated so hard that there were concerns about the motor. Instead of grease, there was black caramel in the oil seal. Since then, I stopped pouring liquid to the bottom and there were no problems with squeaks. Proverbs: "Water will find a way" or "Where water is on the way, here it will find a way" was not invented by me, this is folk wisdom
Svetlenki
CrenDel, Yuri, still getting ready with the spirit. I have to watch the video, I'm afraid, I'll have to do it myself, the main thing is to get it done. Lubrication still needs to be ordered. Honestly, the toad is choking, it's dear on the Internet

Maybe someone knows where to find cheaper
$ vetLana
Sveta, a couple of pages ago Anya wrote about lubrication
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...445.0
Or do you want to buy another one?
sazalexter
Quote: Svetlenki
Maybe someone knows where to find cheaper
Ask the service center for the repair of copiers
Mandraik Ludmila
Yuri, I do not agree, so you had a backlash there, but it was definitely a panasik? Many people pour water into Panasiki at the beginning, including me, 3 years - the flight is normal. Another, my first stove (Mystery), according to the instructions had liquid down, yes, a year later the pin flew out, the second stove (Redmond), the same in the instructions the liquid down - it is still alive, does not leak, she is 4 years old, but I use it cleanly dough mixer - generally does not bake well. Although there is no fundamental difference in my opinion, just a habit
$ vetLana
Quote: Mandraik Lyudmila
Many people pour water in Panasiki at the beginning
Luda, are you sure there are many? As far as I know, they lay according to the instructions, first dry, liquid on top.
Palych
Now I'm doing it like Panasonic, just flour, although earlier as in the instructions.
He took off and put the bucket on the scales, poured warm water, salt and sugar into it. On the one hand, this is good, the crystals, dissolving, will not scratch the coating of the bucket, but until it comes to flour, while it mixes with the liquid, the salt-sugar syrup has time to penetrate between the oil seal into the bearing cavity, as well as the bushing. And how it will also be fried - that is natural salted caramel!), And there is also a semi-liquid dough - and it will add coal. This will affect the life of the bearing quickly and not for the better.
I also give specials. half an hour for "temperature equalization", well, it was not in vain that they invented it! I turn on a bit of heating so that everything is warmed up to above room temperature. And autolysis at least 10 minutes on auto-pause after 2-3 minutes. mixing.
$ vetLana
Igor, our person
SvetaI
Quote: Palych
I also give specials. half an hour for "temperature equalization", well, it was not in vain that they invented it! I turn on a bit of heating so that everything is warmed up to above room temperature.
In fact, in Panas, temperature equalization is not what you think.
Let's say the Main Program lasts 4 hours. If the room temperature is normal, then the batch starts 30 minutes after switching on. That is, the actual program lasts 3.5 hours.
If the room is cool, Panasonic engineers believe that the proofing should take longer. The kneading starts earlier, for example 15 minutes after switching on, i.e. the program lasts 1 hour and 45 minutes.
If the room is very hot, proofing is faster. The kneading will start later, maybe even 1 hour after switching on, which means that the program will last less - 3 hours.
This is what is meant, not that the products will become the same temperature.
I, too, used to think like you, and only after buying Panas, I realized that I was wrong.
Palych
SvetaI, I foresaw this)
Svetlenki
Quote: CrenDel
Instead of grease, there was black caramel in the oil seal. Since then, I stopped pouring liquid to the bottom and there were no problems with squeaks. Proverbs: "Water will find a way" or "Where the water is on the way, here it will find a way" was not invented by me, this is folk wisdom

I'll support you. I poured water / dough down and this is what happened. The stove is knocking not sickly now. If I fix it, I won't do it anymore. And there everyone decides for himself




Quote: $ vetLana
Or do you want to buy another one?

Brightwing, yes, I'm looking for the one that sazalexter, Alexander, advised

Quote: sazalexter
Panasonic Assembly Disassembly Help https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...om_smf&topic=402685.0
information on lubricants https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...com_smf&topic=36855.0 the most decent Molykote HP-300 on the market, it is not just silicone, but with the addition of PTFE
solnyshko1
Tell me please. This is my second time with a problem. Oven 2502, baked bread on program 4, and the oven began to interfere after the temperature was equalized (rapid rotations with a spatula are primary), and then it seemed as if it missed the next stage of kneading - kneading the bun itself, that is, the rotation of the scapula with a figure eight when collecting the bun. I have flour at the bottom, liquid on it - water mixed with flour. Next comes the lifting and settling program. I didn’t bring it to baking, switched to program 2 Fast bread, immediately the bun was kneaded, everything was baked wonderfully. The previous time, after skipping the program, I also baked on Bystry, immediately the bun was kneaded. Between these pastries, the program worked correctly for me once. That is, the problem is the correct problem. What could it be?
Eugene 1974
Good day. Such a problem. The stove is five and a half years old. Panasonic 2500. Two days ago I noticed. Bread was prepared in the first mode. There was baking. By chance, the screen went out. There was still 30-40 minutes left. After some time, it turned on. Then it went out again. As a result, the bread was toasted and the signal sounded. It seemed that the bread was a bit damp. Again today. But only 25 minutes before the end, the screen went out and the stove did not heat up. And it didn't turn on anymore
... Unbaked bread. On page 38, I found a similar problem. What is a thermal sensor. Does it look the same to me?
Palych
Quote: Eugene 1974
On page 38, I found a similar problem. What is a thermal sensor. Does it look the same to me?
Let's give a specific link to the message ... all the number of pages in the topic may have different.
If the display goes out, then this is clearly a power problem, where does the thermistor sensor have to do with it? If it is broken or closed, an error code will pop up. Somehow, during the repair, I accidentally cut off the track on the board where the wire from the sensor was soldered ... screamed when turned on that they say high / low temperature).
And start with the most obvious, outlet, plug, cord ...
If you sin on thermal protection (it is quite possible), but it is easy to check and fix it. (By short-circuiting thermal fuses)

Eugene 1974
Well, it doesn't look like it's a cord. The relay clicks - the heater is turned off. And with it the screen. The cord pulled bent - nothing changes. Then the relay clicked and it worked. As soon as it clicks off, the screen also goes out. But of course you need to ring the cord.
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...om_smf&topic=445.1850
Serzh1000 wrote.
Palych
Eugene 1974, change the paste, I even smeared the usual toothbrush))), or throw them out to ... and when the heating elements are turned on, there is no general sagging? Can't shorten when heated? 6 years almost ... does it work on power, not overheating? What are the fuses on the 220 network? Self-healing?




If it works only when the heating elements are working, then the cord, etc., need not be tormented. There is either current or temperature protection.
Eugene 1974
Yes. Everything is fine on the batch. Only when baking.
What fuses, I don't know.
Thermal grease on the temperature sensor?
The heating element seems to turn on usually. Today I turned it on through the wattmeter. 490-500 W was when Ten was working
Palych
Eugene 1974, no, on x. ovens, in addition to the thermal sensor, there are a couple of other specials. thermal fuse th. Their task is to cut the power supply in case of emergency overheating of the tank. Probably a type of fire protection.
Heating elements incl. and during proofing, if they were shorting it, then the food would be cut off and in the process ...look for a manual on disassembly, then people laid out and "verbally" the technique, look for videos in YouTube and disassemble. Take a picture of everything to collect back). All sensors and a thermometer are screwed to the tank. resistor to the processor and protective to the power board.
Eugene 1974
Good. Got it. Thank you .
Eugene 1974
Good afternoon. This morning the stove completely stopped turning on. Disassembled. The thermal fuse on the black wire does not ring. The second one rings normally. I opened the box with thermal resistance. All the thermal paste crumbled. The sensor itself looks whole. I cannot find its characteristics. Shows 25.7 kΩ at room temperature. With my hands I warm up - the resistance drops to about 20 kOhm. Is this normal? I read about another thermistor 100 kOhm at room temperature. Well, change the fuse is understandable. And if I don't find him in my town? Can I do it directly? Or fraught? And the thermistor is not normal?
Palych
Quote: Eugene 1974
Can I do it directly?
I would short-circuit. I would not leave unattended during work and that's it.
Eugene 1974
Good. I will shortcut. Well, at least temporarily. Can you tell by the thermistor? Replace thermal grease and install? In general, because of what, after all, the fuse is out of order? Or just a long time?

Collected. Included. The screen lights up. How to try it, I will unsubscribe. Thanks a lot for your help!!!
Eugene 1974
Good day. We have already baked two rolls. Everything is fine. At first it seemed that the case was very hot. I measured the temperature of the case. Compared with the same. Fine. So so far so good.
mir
Quote: Eugene 1974

Good day. We have already baked two rolls. Everything is fine. At first it seemed that the case was very hot. I measured the temperature of the case. Compared with the same. Fine. So so far so good.
It's good that everything is fine. But fuses don't just blow out. So watch out for the bread maker. Good luck.
Eugene 1974

It's good that everything is fine. But fuses don't just blow out. So watch out for the bread maker. Good luck.

Yes, I understand. I'm watching.
Mokrano
Help me figure it out, Panasonic sd-257 bread maker, operation for about 7 years, is quite rare. I bake ordinary bread, nothing new - I suddenly stopped baking, that's what happens (photo). I tried different yeast, even a ready-made mixture - exactly half of it turns out, raw. Maybe someone came across a similar one?
Palych
Mokrano,
Kluchnik
Good evening! I have an old Panasonic SD 257. The engine power has dropped, it mixes up to a dense state and practically stops, it just hums .. All the backlash on the bucket and on the pulley has been removed. It is described above that this is a 3 μF 450 V capacitor.

Tell me in my model is the same Conder worth it?
sazalexter
SergeiSame, read the thread from the first page in more detail https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=445.0 may come in handy https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...685.0
Kluchnik
Thanks for answers! Please look at this one? 🔗
sazalexter
SergeiBetter this one 🔗 he is a launcher specialist, only the collective farm will have to be fixed to the board, you can glue it on hot melt glue or on neutral silicone (without acetate)
Kluchnik
🔗 If you work on a collective farm, I think this one can be attached somewhere.
sazalexter
SergeiBad option, massive, and MBG-Ch was recommended as launchers
Kluchnik
Quote: sazalexter

SergeiBad option, massive, and MBG-Ch was recommended as launchers
Thank you! Ordered the one you recommended.
Kluchnik
I changed the conder. The bread maker has come to life, kneading at full capacity !!!! Thank you!
Evaf
STEEL56, STEEL56, Can you share your measurements ??
mamusi
Goodnight!)
Help with advice, please.
I have HP 2501 for 5 years.
For the last three days I have heard such a humming sound as if it cannot knead, but it hums. And then it kneads again, a kind of "straining", or something ...
I helped with a spatula, it went.
For the last 4 months I bake bread very often. Twice a day for sure.
They used to bake less often.
What's wrong with my mistress?
(There is a thought that the Capacitor, and it needs to be replaced)
Drag it to repair? .. if you replace the part, the husband can handle it himself
Where to buy them is the question.
Already looking for a replacement out of fear ...

sazalexter
mamusiTo begin with, check the bucket for freehand rotation of the scapula, for more details in the topic. If a capacitor, then you can buy it via the Internet, in stores like Chip and Dip, its parameters were also discussed above https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...c=445.0
mamusi
Quote: sazalexter
check the bucket for hand rotation of the scapula,
Alexander, the hand rotates easily.
That's all for today ...
Doesn't twist at all, buzzes. I bake almost always Darnitsky. Only him.
I raise the dough with my hand - the mixer is spinning, I lower it ... It just hums.

Found only one Panasik available in my city. (And again like my 2501).
Let's go buy it. At first I wanted a different model (for a change)))
But now I calmed down and even glad that it will be the same. I got used to it. Love her.
We'll fix two ... And two buckets.
Thanks for your answer and for the link.
CrenDel
Quote: Kluchnik

I changed the conder. The bread maker has come to life, kneading at full capacity !!!! Thank you!
Tell me, does the original HP capacitor have flat or wire leads ??
Parrot
Dear bakers! I ask for help.
I bought with a markdown in Citylink a "new" bread machine 2502 model. The reason for the markdown is that there are small scratches at the bottom of the bucket. They do not affect baking.
The problem is to remove the stirrer. After the third baking, the stirrer could not be removed.
When putting on the stirrer, I felt a slightly different shape at the pin compared to my previous 2512 model.
In 2512, the stirrer is freely removable, there were no problems for 5 years.
The 2502 has a warranty for almost a year. I do not want to return the money, the exchange is impossible.
Please advise what can be done to remove the stirrer and so that in the future it "dangles" more freely on the pin.
mamusi
Quote: Kluchnik
I changed the conder. The bread maker has come to life, kneading at full capacity !!!! Thank you!
I have the same. Changed the capacitor.
The stove is kneading !!!
I've been baking for several days already.
Thank you, Alexander!)
Wit
The agitator cannot be removed from the shaft. Conder has nothing to do with it.
Larissa, after baking, you filled the bucket with water so that the mixer was soaked. After baking, it sticks to the pin so that you can't budge. It is advisable to take a picture of the shape of the pin. We would have looked, then it interferes. For example, I clean this pin after each baking, scrape off the caked lumps of flour. And after wetting it.
Parrot
Quote: Wit

The agitator cannot be removed from the shaft. Conder has nothing to do with it.
Larissa, after baking, you filled the bucket with water so that the mixer was soaked. After baking, it sticks to the pin so that you can't budge. It is advisable to take a picture of the shape of the pin. We would have looked, it interferes there. For example, I clean this pin after each baking, scrape off the caked lumps of flour. And after wetting it.
Soaking hasn't helped yet. If I take off the stirrer, I will take a photo of the pin.
mamusi
Quote: Wit
The agitator cannot be removed from the shaft. Conder has nothing to do with it.
Vit, dear ... my Post is not to the previous message.
Not to the mixer .... But to past my problems.
You know which ones. Because he also helped me with advice.
Like Alexander
Wit
Ahh, the answers just overlapped. Understood.




Quote: Parrot
Soaking hasn't helped yet. If I take off the stirrer, I will take a photo of the pin.

Possibly burnt hard. I fill in water and leave for 15 ... 30 minutes.
Let it soak, take your time.
Palych
Larissa, hold with one hand, fix the drive itself from below, and with the other, with movements "right-left", pump the mixer and pull it up. A backlash will gradually appear and it will be removed from the stem.
Parrot
Thanks to those who responded about the mixer. Her husband caught her with a rope. But it is not normal to make such an effort to remove the stirrer.
Advise whether it is necessary to contact the service under warranty to undermine the bushing.
sazalexter
Parrot, Check the scapula, from the old HP should also fit 🔗 there were cases that a compatible Chinese spatula does not fit, maybe such a "got" equipment, a bucket with circular scratches, this is not casual, it was clearly in operation
Wit
Quote: Parrot
After the third baking, the stirrer could not be removed.
Larissa, and after the first and second baking was removed normally?

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