Vienna Coffee Saga 1. (Stories & Recipes) Schwarzwaelder Kaffee

Vienna Coffee Saga 1. (Stories and Recipes) Schwarzwaelder Kaffee

Category: The drinks

Kitchen: austrian

Vienna Coffee Saga 1. (Stories and Recipes) Schwarzwaelder Kaffee

Ingredients
Freshly brewed hot coffee	150 ml
Chocolate syrup (chocolate)	2 tbsp. l.
Cherry juice or cherry liqueur	1-2 tbsp. l ..
Half whipped cream	30 ml
Chocolate chips and cocoa	by a pinch
Cherry, sweet cherry	1-3 pcs.

Cooking method

"The taste of coffee is wonderful, but incomprehensible. You need to learn to understand and love it, only under this condition you can enjoy it with rapture to the fullest."
Gustave Flaubert, French writer.
There is a place in the world to which the words of the great writer, which I have put in the epigraph, are more relevant than ever. This place is the capital of Austria - the beautiful city of Vienna. Why? Yes, because the cult of this divine drink reigns there, they understand its nature and value and know how to handle it delicately and competently. Without this drink, the morning of a Viennese does not start, and dinner ends with it.
It was from Vienna that the ceremonial procession of coffee across Europe began.
Therefore, Vienna can be called the coffee capital with full confidence.
Having tried this divine drink many times in different places during a rather long visit to Vienna, in simple cafes in the suburbs and in expensive places in the center, we have never encountered poor quality coffee. Epithets that would be appropriate to describe the experience of Viennese coffee will range from just good coffee to breathtakingly tasty, unforgettable!
Even as soon as you arrive in Vienna at 6 o'clock in the morning, you will find delicious coffee and wonderful cakes in one of the several cafes in the arrival hall. (We always look forward to this moment and, as soon as we receive luggage, we run to relieve the road fatigue and immediately plunge into the atmosphere of Vienna, starting the journey with a cup of aromatic coffee in this cafe.)
For the duration of the competition, or maybe longer, I propose to plunge into the history of Viennese coffee, try some wonderful recipes common in Viennese cafes, coffee-based desserts that I plan to prepare in the near future.
There are several versions related to the history of the appearance and distribution of coffee in Vienna. But the most reliable are associated with two names.
The first and most prosaic version is associated with the name of an Armenian living in Vienna at that time, Johannes Diodato. It was he who received the first patent (privilege) for the opening of the first Viennese coffee house on January 17, 1685. from Kaiser Leopold 1 for the production of "Turkish drinks: coffee, tea and sherbet".
It was in those years that the inhabitants of Vienna became more and more accustomed to the honey-sweetened drinks of their sworn enemies, the Turks. Over time, the popularity of coffee grew so much that the Viennese allowed the Turks to light a fire at almost every corner to make coffee. Street vendors competed with coffee shop owners. To resolve the problem, the Kaiser decided to issue a patent for the sale of coffee.
As a result, only eleven families and their descendants were allowed to brew coffee. In 1730, there were officially 30 coffee shops in Vienna and several dozen coffee shops in basements.
If you follow the historical truth, you need to add a fly in the ointment to a cup of Viennese coffee, pointing out the fact that the drink from coffee was already known in Europe before its appearance in Vienna, in particular in Italian Venice, in some cities of the Old World - Paris, Hamburg, but it did not stand out as a cult among the variety of other drinks.
But the story of true recognition, the "triumphant march" of coffee across Europe is associated with the name of another character, about whom they speak as nothing more, nothing less than "the man who taught Europe to drink coffee"!
This is Yurko Frantsevich Kulchitsky! The story of his life and his "coffee story" deserve a separate story. I will talk about this in the next part, it is already ready, it remains only to prepare the accompanying recipe.
Here I would like to mention some of the coffee traditions of those times.
If you ask the question, and from what dish did the crowns drink coffee in the 17th century, then there is a reliable answer: like the whole of Europe from a saucer! The first European porcelain was "rediscovered" in Germany in 1709. Until that time, so that the delicate fingers of the court ladies would not burn on the copper (silver) cups, it was customary to pour coffee into thick-walled saucers. Therefore, if you look closely at the saucers of coffee sets from a number of European manufacturers, it will not seem strange to you that an incomparably large and deep saucer is attached to a small cup. It's such a tradition!
In the days of Maria Theresa, attempts were made to replace coffee with chocolate everywhere. To popularize this drink, cantatas were even written, the chocolate drink was advertised at all corners. Remember the famous painting by Lyotard "The Chocolate Girl".
The Beautiful Chocolate Girl (French: La Belle Chocolatière, German: Das Schokoladenmädchen) is the most famous painting by the 18th century Swiss artist J.E. Lyotard, depicting a maid carrying hot chocolate on a tray. Made in pastel technique on parchment. The legend about the creation of this painting is as follows: in 1745, an Austrian aristocrat, Prince Dietrichstein, went to a Viennese coffee house to taste a new chocolate drink, which was so much talked about at that time. His waitress was Anna Baltauf, daughter of an impoverished nobleman, Melchior Baltauf. The prince was captivated by her charm, and, despite the objections of his family, took the girl as his wife. "Shokoladnitsa" became a wedding present for the new princess, ordered by the newlyweds from the fashionable Swiss artist Lyotard. The portrait painter portrayed the bride dressed as an 18th century waitress, immortalizing love at first sight. (It was this version, the real Cinderella story, that was popularized in the Baker booklets.) According to another version, the future princess's name was Charlotte Baltauf, her father was a Viennese banker and the painting was painted in his house - this reads the inscription preserved on a copy of the painting kept in London in the Orleans House Gallery. There is also a variant according to which it was not a commissioned portrait, but a painting painted at the own request of the artist, amazed by the beauty of the girl, from the maid of honor of the Empress Maria Theresa, called Balduf, who later became the wife of Joseph Wenzel von Lichtenstein. In any case, the identity of the model is not exactly established. Wikipedia.
However, coffee did not yield its primacy to chocolate and became a truly popular drink.
Unlike the Viennese, the ability to consume coffee in Germany was an indicator of a person's social status. “After all, it is impossible to allow every bricklayer, maid or simple worker to allow himself to drink coffee,” Frederick the Great complained in a letter to his minister.
By the early 19th century, besides coffee, coffee houses served tea, chocolate, almond milk, punch, lemonade, and ice cream, depending on the season.
As for the coffee itself, Viennese coffee houses offered a mixture of different varieties with different combinations of cream, milk and other products.
An interesting story of the emergence of a microscopic mocha cup, characteristic only for Austria. During the Napoleonic Continental Blockade, the supply of coffee in Vienna was constantly dwindling. In this connection, the portion of coffee was reduced to the size of a thimble, or, as the crowns themselves said, to a "nutshell".
Since the middle of the 19th century, a tradition has emerged to serve coffee with something from pastry. And if you offer an Austrian to drink coffee and put only a cup of drink in front of him, they will not understand you. The coffee will be “defective”.
The Austrians have developed so many nuances in the preparation and serving of coffee that they sincerely believe that the only correct drink is coffee brewed on Austrian soil with local water according to one of the many Viennese recipes.
I must say that the gradation in the name of the coffee tableware in Vienna is so diverse that, having arrived abroad, poor Austrian coffee lovers get lost when ordering their favorite variety and “favorite size”, which once again confirms their confidence in the complete “professional unsuitability” of foreign coffee houses.
I will try to list only a small part and a modest description of the varieties of coffee served in Vienna today.
Biedermeier - coffee with apricot liqueur and whipped cream. The recipe recalls the "pastoral culture" of the post-Vienna Congress in the 19th century.
Brown (Brauner) - black coffee with milk.
Double mocha (Doppelmokka) is a double strength coffee served in a large cup.
Odnokolka (Einspaenner) - a glass goblet with a handle, filled with black coffee, with whipped cream and sugar. powder. Coffee in this form was invented for cabbies. A glass with a handle (instead of a cup and saucer) allowed the second hand to hold the reins. The coffee remained hot for a long time under the cream. At the same time, it could be quickly cooled by stirring. It is considered special chic when serving this coffee to slap a sugar cube into it casually. So that exactly one drop pours over the edge.
Salon odnokolka (Salon-Einspaenner). The composition is the same as that of one-cola, but with the addition of vodka. Serving method: served in a conical glass expanding upward, decorated with a waffle tube on top. In this case, overflowing is unacceptable.
Kucher (Fiaker) - black coffee with rum or cherry liqueur and a floating cherry.
Franciscan (Franziskaner) - a small cup of mocha (including non-caffeinated) with hot milk. Garnished with whipped cream and chocolate chips.
Intermezzo - A small cup of coffee mixed with hot chocolate and cocoa liqueur, topped with whipped cream. Served with shock. candy.
Royal melange (Kaisermelange) - a large portion of mocha with cognac or brandy (WeinBrand) and honey. Put raw egg yolk on top in a cup.
Capuchin (Kapuziner) - a small cup of mocha into which cream is gradually added, drop by drop, until the coffee acquires the color of a capuchin robe.
"Othodnyak" (Katerkaffee) is a very strong black coffee. Served with refined sugar grated with lemon peel
Konsul - A large mocha cup with a little cream.
Cossack coffee (Kosakenkaffee) - a small portion of mocha in a glass with a handle, with the addition of red wine, vodka and syrup.
Shorty (Kurzer) - low water mocha
Maria Theresia is a small mocha with equal parts orange liqueur and brandy, topped with a head of whipped cream, sprinkled with colored decorative sugar. Served in a glass goblet.
Mazagran ("Mazagran") - there are several recipes.
Classic version: The glass is half filled with ice and filled with hot strong coffee. According to legend, when the French soldiers defended the village of Mazagran, besieged by the Arabs, they had only coffee left of their provisions.
Modern version: Iced coffee with maraschino, spices, syrup and ice cubes. Served in a stemmed glass ("Laufglas") or cocktail glass.
"Master's Coffee" (Meisterkaffee) - a cup of coffee served with brandy.
Melange ("Viennese melange") - add half a cup of steam foamed milk to half a cup of mocha.
Mocca - Black coffee in a large or small special cup.
"Hitrovan" (Obermaier) - black, lightly sweetened coffee with chilled cream, poured around the circumference of the cup through an inverted spoon. It is drunk starting from the hot middle.
Pharisaeer - 40 ml of rum is mixed with sugar. Hot mocha is poured on top. Everything is covered with a cap of whipped cream. This coffee got its name because of its captivatingly innocent look. When drinking, it turns out that there is more rum in it than coffee.
Schale Gold - coffee is mixed with cream until golden brown.Lighter than Brown
Schwarzwaelder Kaffee - A small cup of mocha with cherry liqueur and half whipped cream. Served in a glass with a handle.
Turkish coffee (Tuerkischer) - very finely ground coffee, brewed in a Turk, served with sediment. Served with sugar or Turkish delight.
"Supplemented" (Verlaegerter) - a small portion of mocha, diluted with boiling water to a large volume.
"Pervert or coffee vice versa" ("Verkehrter") - a small portion of mocha with foamed hot milk served ... in a teacup
White with froth (Weißer mit Haut): light milk coffee, poured with whole milk so that a froth is formed, like on Guryev porridge.
Wiener Eiskaffee - Large mocha with vanilla ice cream, cream and sugar. powder.
How to make my favorite Black Forest coffee.
Everything is very simple!
In a cup, combine freshly brewed hot coffee, syrup, and cherry juice / liqueur. (I like to brew in a Turk and therefore sometimes filter the coffee after brewing or let it stand.)
After stirring thoroughly, add the pre-whipped (not too strong) cream, and place it nicely on the coffee. Decorate the top with chocolate chips, sprinkle with cocoa and add cherries.
If you don't have chocolate syrup on hand, you can simply melt some chocolate and pour hot coffee into it.
And, I'm not afraid of this expression, enjoy!
This coffee Black Forest is so self-sufficient that it completely replaces a cake or pastry. A good alternative to baking in case of a surprise visit from girlfriends!
I found an alternative to chocolate.

Note

In the next topic I will tell the story of Yurko Frantsevich Kulchitsky and how it is appropriate to behave in a Viennese cafe so that if you are not mistaken for your own, then at least you are recognized as connoisseurs of coffee.