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In search of the original Uzbek flatbread. Part 1. Sourdough
See also:
Part 2. Making dough and baking tortillas
What has become "wrong" in the Uzbek cake? Or: why is the Uzbek flatbread already "not the same"? The answer, in general, is obvious - yeast. Regular bakery yeast, or even "fast" yeast. They work in the dough, as they should, giving the bread airiness, and the pulp - the characteristic porosity. They are certainly easy to use and very affordable. In the bread familiar to many of us, they may be good and almost irreplaceable. But the originality of the Uzbek flatbread - its unique taste and aroma, the ability to stay fresh for quite a long time - the yeast practically brought to naught. More precisely, they completely brought it to naught, because even the tandoor production of cakes does not make them what they once were.
In Tashkent, unsuccessfully trying to find the original Uzbek flatbread (a paradox, right?), I asked the baker what kind of strange term is used in the flatbread recipe - "trembling"? So this, he replies, is "khamirturush" - that is, "yeast". And he thought about it himself. Over the fact, probably, why instead of "khamirturush" say "trembling" if it's the same thing? Or maybe over the fact that "khamirturush" is "yeast", but not quite? "Hamirturush" both as a term and as a means for raising the dough for flat cakes has existed since ancient times, long before the appearance of thermophilic and, moreover, fast yeast.
In the Russian language there is an alternative to "yeast" - "leaven". She was not found in Uzbek - at least in the translation into Russian. However, because of this "khamirturush" did not cease to be "khamirturush", just in case it was adjacent to "trembling". There was nothing left - to find "khamirturush", more precisely - its recipe. More precisely, one of the recipes. What for?
In the question: what is primary in the Uzbek flat cake - sourdough or tandoor - there is obviously as much uncertainty as in the question of chicken and eggs. However, the sourdough is now quite often replaced by thermophilic yeast, and the cake in the tandoor is quite successful. But to taste, as already mentioned, it is not a cake.
It is more difficult to replace the tandoor with something else, although there are ovens that calmly gain tandoor temperatures. Those who are not quite in the subject, believing that tandoor is not only temperatures, but also "smoke", I will disappoint: in a tandoor prepared for baking bread, there is not only a smoke, but also its smell. The advantage aspect remains. In a tandoor, you can simultaneously bake many cakes of different shapes and sizes, which even the most advanced oven cannot cope with. And the tandoor also provides speed, which is important for baking bread.
Nevertheless, the cake can be baked in the oven if there is no tandoor. On sourdough, this will definitely be a cake, minus the baking method. In the presence of sourdough and tandoor, even this minus will not remain, it is checked. But I'm lazy, like some of you. For fifteen years I am going to build a tandoor at the dacha - I have not. Straining my memory to get from its farthest nooks everything that I once knew about the Uzbek flatbread, I nevertheless walked along the line of least resistance, wasting time. Fortunately, memory is not elusive, like sand between fingers, days and years. Fortunately, you can not only strain it, but also refresh it, in contrast to what you have lived through. Complement and notch ...
I mean, the widespread recipe for the sourdough for Uzbek flat cakes is correct only according to the list of components, but not according to the preparation technology. Having succumbed to laziness (they say, why the hell to follow the old rules if there is progress?), I put the components in a heap as prescribed and failed, although I did not particularly notice curvature. True, I am just a humanities scholar, making friends with physics and chemistry, like an amateur. And I cannot explain why the leaven on the piled up ingredients did not show signs of life even on the third day, subject to the leavening rules. But as a humanist, however, I clearly know that the millennial experience of bakers does not need another inventor of the bicycle. And therefore it is better to adhere to traditions, correlating traditional explanations with them. Then everything should turn out the way it always turned out. Let's check?
So, the sourdough "khamirturush" for traditional Uzbek flat cakes (the simplest and most common, which in their historical homeland are called obi-non, that is, baked bread) begins with a small amount of warm and strong lamb or beef broth. Those who are engaged in baking sourdough bread, I think, will not let me lie that in quantitative terms sourdough is a loose concept. This is not "add 5 grams of dry yeast to the dough." Sourdough is a geometrically growing substance capable of accelerating from the thimble volume tenfold. It all depends on when and how much to use it, how long and how correctly its viability is maintained, how viable the starter itself will be. If there is not enough experience in this area, but you want to bake a certain amount of cakes, it is better to start from comprehending the basics of starter than from the quantity. And start at a minimum. Here's how I scooped only two scoops from a broth in which about 40 degrees of heat (a memorable figure, right?), In order to build proportions of other products on this volume.
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In search of the original Uzbek flatbread. Part 1. Sourdough
See also:
Part 2. Making dough and baking tortillas
What has become "wrong" in the Uzbek cake? Or: why is the Uzbek flatbread already "not the same"? The answer, in general, is obvious - yeast. Regular bakery yeast, or even "fast" yeast. They work in the dough, as they should, giving the bread airiness, and the pulp - the characteristic porosity. They are certainly easy to use and very affordable. In the bread familiar to many of us, they may be good and almost irreplaceable.But the originality of the Uzbek flatbread - its unique taste and aroma, the ability to stay fresh for quite a long time - the yeast practically brought to naught. More precisely, they completely brought it to naught, because even the tandoor production of cakes does not make them what they once were.
In Tashkent, unsuccessfully trying to find the original Uzbek flatbread (a paradox, right?), I asked the baker what kind of strange term is used in the flatbread recipe - "trembling"? So this, he replies, is "khamirturush" - that is, "yeast". And he thought about it himself. Over the fact, probably, why instead of "khamirturush" say "trembling" if it's the same thing? Or maybe over the fact that "khamirturush" is "yeast", but not quite? "Hamirturush" both as a term and as a means for raising the dough for flat cakes has existed since ancient times, long before the appearance of thermophilic and, moreover, fast yeast.
In the Russian language there is an alternative to "yeast" - "leaven". She was not found in Uzbek - at least in the translation into Russian. However, because of this "khamirturush" did not cease to be "khamirturush", just in case it was adjacent to "trembling". There was nothing left - to find "khamirturush", more precisely - its recipe. More precisely, one of the recipes. What for?
In the question: what is primary in the Uzbek flat cake - sourdough or tandoor - there is obviously as much uncertainty as in the question of chicken and eggs. However, the sourdough is now quite often replaced by thermophilic yeast, and the cake in the tandoor is quite successful. But to taste, as already mentioned, it is not a cake.
It is more difficult to replace the tandoor with something else, although there are ovens that calmly gain tandoor temperatures. Those who are not quite in the subject, believing that tandoor is not only temperatures, but also "smoke", I will disappoint: in a tandoor prepared for baking bread, there is not only a smoke, but also its smell. The advantage aspect remains. In a tandoor, you can simultaneously bake many cakes of different shapes and sizes, which even the most advanced oven cannot cope with. And the tandoor also provides speed, which is important for baking bread.
Nevertheless, the cake can be baked in the oven if there is no tandoor. On sourdough, this will definitely be a cake, minus the baking method. In the presence of sourdough and tandoor, even this minus will not remain, it is checked. But I'm lazy, like some of you. For fifteen years I am going to build a tandoor at the dacha - I have not. Straining my memory to get from its farthest nooks everything that I once knew about the Uzbek flatbread, I nevertheless walked along the line of least resistance, wasting time. Fortunately, memory is not elusive, like sand between fingers, days and years. Fortunately, you can not only strain it, but also refresh it, in contrast to what you have lived through. Complement and notch ...
I mean, the widespread recipe for the sourdough for Uzbek flat cakes is correct only according to the list of components, but not according to the preparation technology. Having succumbed to laziness (they say, why the hell to follow the old rules if there is progress?), I put the components in a heap as prescribed and failed, although I did not particularly notice curvature. True, I am just a humanities scholar, making friends with physics and chemistry, like an amateur. And I cannot explain why the leaven on the piled up ingredients did not show signs of life even on the third day, subject to the leavening rules. But as a humanist, however, I clearly know that the millennial experience of bakers does not need another inventor of the bicycle. And therefore it is better to adhere to traditions, correlating traditional explanations with them. Then everything should turn out the way it always turned out. Let's check?
So, the sourdough "khamirturush" for traditional Uzbek flat cakes (the simplest and most common, which in their historical homeland are called obi-non, that is, baked bread) begins with a small amount of warm and strong lamb or beef broth. Those who are engaged in baking sourdough bread, I think, will not let me lie that in quantitative terms sourdough is a loose concept. This is not "add 5 grams of dry yeast to the dough."Sourdough is a geometrically growing substance capable of accelerating from the thimble volume tenfold. It all depends on when and how much to use it, how long and how correctly its viability is maintained, how viable the starter itself will be. If there is not enough experience in this area, but you want to bake a certain amount of cakes, it is better to start from comprehending the basics of starter than from the quantity. And start at a minimum. Here's how I scooped only two scoops from a broth in which about 40 degrees of heat (a memorable figure, right?), In order to build proportions of other products on this volume.
Add one medium onion to the measured broth - peeled and chopped at random. As far as I understand the interaction of products, fresh onion in a warm broth is a kind of stimulant for its rather quick souring. That is, creating an environment for the development of a special culture of yeast bacteria. Leave, for example, garlic or onion in yesterday's pilaf - in a day it will definitely turn sour.
Now flour - it will be needed exactly as much as the broth was measured. Souring broth paired with flour - a nutrient medium for the development of a special yeast culture - is a tandem traditional for bread leavens, and there is no need to theorize here.
Flour should be thoroughly mixed with broth and onion, slightly crumbling the onion pieces ...
... and cover the bowl with the future sourdough with something, but not tightly so that the yeast breathes. And - put the bowl in a dark and warm place for fermentation. How much? It's not always the same. From 6-8 hours to a day or more.
In my case, the first signs of fermentation made themselves felt after about 14 hours - with the appearance of characteristic bubbles on the surface of the future sourdough.
However, what happened at this stage is not leaven yet. In the sense that it is not a leaven, because its ability to raise the dough with a rather weak release of carbon dioxide - a by-product of the yeast's vital activity - is small. If we draw parallels with winemaking, this is something like a wort that is sluggishly developing on wild yeast and needs additional "infection" - replanting, for example, cultivated yeast races. The comparison is rough, but the mechanism is the same. Therefore, the fermented substance should be freed from the onion - for example, strain the future sourdough through a colander and clearly determine its remaining volume.
This certainty is needed in order to add exactly the same amount of room temperature katyka or yogurt (which is the same thing) to the resulting volume. Is it possible to replace katyk or yogurt with another lactic acid product? In theory, probably yes, although, for example, katyk (yogurt) and kefir with yogurt are slightly different, albeit lactic acid products.
Then you should add flour - exactly in the amount in which the strained leaven was.
And - stir until the consistency of thick sour cream, leaving no lumps. Close again, allowing the yeast to breathe, and put back in a dark and warm place until ...
Yes, until the almost ready-made sourdough shows its true character - rising and bubbling. It took me another day of waiting.
The bakers, I think, will again not let me lie if I say that freshly prepared sourdough should not be immediately put into action. Ripe over the next couple of days, it will be better in quality, which, of course, will affect the quality of the cakes. It is important to keep the leaven from dying by feeding it at least once a day with warm water and flour, although bakers do this much more often. For such a feeding, you need to know exactly how much leaven is already there. That is, either weigh it (which is better), or move it into a measuring container, so as not to be mistaken.
Having decided on the leaven, the same amount (by weight or volume) of warm water should be poured into it ...
... and stir in the same amount of flour so that the ratio of sourdough, water and flour looks like a 1: 1: 1 ratio.
After thoroughly mixing the components, it is better to pour the "seasoned" starter into a suitable container with a lid, equipped with holes, so that the yeast continues to breathe and does not become aired.But pour it so that the leaven has enough room for growth, because it will certainly rise.
Well, after a couple of days, you can, in fact, take up the cakes. Which we will do to evaluate the leaven in the next part of this recipe.
In between should have been uncopyable photos of the author.
I will post the recipes for the tortillas of this author next time. And they are still working on their best practices. The only thing I can say is that the liquid sourdough in the jar, requiring feeding, did not suit me, because the cake sour unpleasantly. I don't like this aftertaste. Here in the process of improvements ...
Added Friday 24 Jun 2016 8:57 PM
It means that the Uzbeks do not store the leaven, they keep "khamirturush". This is a piece of dough that is pinched off (approximately 150 grams) from the finished ripe dough for the next baking. That is, the Starter is Hamirturush. Over time, this hamirturush becomes stronger. Store it in a cool place in summer: then the finished cake does not sour. When it grows at least twice, knead the soft dough. And in winter it keeps it warmer. Starter consumption is 150 grams per 0.5 liters of milk. It is milk, because the hamirturush mixed with water fades away, that is, it stops growing. And in our country, the leaven grows due to sour olny bacteria, Bulgarian bacillus and streptococci. Thus, water is not a breeding ground for Hamirturush. If you knead the dough with sour milk, then the process of raising the dough is accelerated. For this amount of milk, I add 2 tablespoons of sea salt. You can add butter, sugar, honey, or eggs for flavor. But, sunflower oil is not allowed. It prevents the dough from rising. And how much flour will take 1 grade. Delicious!
If the first baked goods are "heavy", do not be upset, Hamirturush with each baking, and like other starters it gets stronger
