Vacuum packing machine

just in case - Bijou also has small scales

Greece smokes sadly on the sidelines!

[Igrig]

Igrig, together we will envy Natusa. She has a micrometer.

together we will envy Natusa. She has a micrometer

Nope. The thickness of each layer and the entire package as a whole depends only on the specific technology of a particular enterprise.
Take the old Soviet greenhouse film, for example. Thick! But there is only one layer, it is homogeneous. But thick.
And it is soldered. But it will melt to the heating tape.
Remember, maybe someone used such a film with an iron? So that they didn’t stick, they put tracing paper, right? That is, they provided the same layering.
And tracing paper (also a polymer, just in case, paper = cellulose = polysaccharide) was not fused.
Here is the same garbage on the packages. The outer layer is made of a different polymer and does not melt.
But thin. Because tracing paper was 50 years ago, yeah.

The thickness of each layer and the entire package as a whole depends only on the specific technology of a particular enterprise.

Still, I have to correct it too. The thickness of the film is determined by the tasks that it will perform in the final product. You can make a bag for bread, for chicken, for frozen dumplings, for vacuum packaging, a bag for carrying food ... In each case, the requirements are different for each bag. Somewhere impermeability to oxygen is needed, somewhere impermeability to water, somewhere increased strength is needed, somewhere protection from ultraviolet radiation ... Or a combination of protective properties.
Hence the number of layers, and the material, and the thickness, and additives in the polymer.
And a completely different question is whether the company has the necessary equipment.

Guys, better answer a simple question: I have the most primitive vacuum machine, which does not have a "wet product" button. Therefore, you first have to put in one bag, and then only in a special one for evacuation. Which packages are safe as internal? So as not to emit harmful substances when heated? For baking only? And the smooth Metrovskys themselves?

[Anna1957]

Anna1957how difficult everything is with you, one package then into another, I wanted to offer you a video on YouTube to watch, at the cheapest vacuumator today 1200-1300 rubles, people were just puzzled, use it in full, it was very interesting to me, many answers can be heard, even to questions that have not yet arisen. in the YouTube search, type - the TintonLife vacuum cleaner, the Kulibin craftsmen, there is even a video when valves from car tires are inserted into containers, interestingly shorter

when valves from car tires are inserted into containers,

I'll see, of course, but why do I need another one? I need to make mine convenient to use.

[Igrig]

Igrig, can I not argue? I wrote everything correctly.
I only meant that, for example, the external refractory film here can have 5 microns, and these 20 (performing the same function), and Michal Sanych (KumSumVunich) generally 45-65, depending on the voltage in the outlet , because he has no money to customize the iron humanly.
Anna1957, I will answer like this: who said that Chinese vacuum bags are less harmful than Chinese baking bags or Chinese storage and freezing bags? The key word is Chinese.
I (IMHO !!!) rely on the fact that for SUVID the temperature is obviously lower than the one at which the plastic starts to "soar" with harmful chemicals. And at the level at which it does "soar", the order of harmfulness is the same as at zero temperature. But in the SUVID-nitsa it "hovers" only for hours, and in the freezer for months.But we do not store in glass bags in the freezer, right?

PS. I am not using additional packages. I don't have the option "wet product" either.

[Anna1957]

Anna1957, well, everyone has a different way of dealing with money, and Russia has always been famous for the Kulibins, I won't do that, but it was interesting to see the technology.

I'll see, of course, but why do I need another one? I need to make mine convenient to use.

so I don’t advertise for a purchase, see what they do on simple vacuum machines, draw conclusions, wind up something for myself

see what they do on simple wakemotors

Ah, got it.

I am not using additional packages. I don't have the option "wet product" either.

But as? More?
I didn't bother, but my son saw an inner plastic bag yesterday - and put me to shame Now I think

But as? More?

On the last page I wrote
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=23439.0

Item 2 suits me - so that the package hangs. I tried it - it didn't work out, that's why I switched to the internal packages. Then I'll try again.

[Anna1957]

And tracing paper (also a polymer, just in case, paper = cellulose = polysaccharide) was not fused.
Here is the same garbage on the packages. The outer layer is made of a different polymer and does not melt.

Yes! I guess!


Anna1957, if you really hang around like that, well, put two identical packages, since you want to have two of them. )
But I do not really understand the meaning either ... If moisture is squeezed out of the inner, it will flow from the outer to the vacuum unit, if the sealing is not started in time. Or do you understand the "wet product" option? It pumps there it seems to be exactly the same, only it solders a little longer. When I seal the jam or tomatoes, I hang it, squeeze the air out with my hands and catch the moment for manual sealing.

If moisture is squeezed out of the inside, it will flow from the outside to the vacuum unit, if the sealing is not started in time. Or do you understand the "wet product" option?

If you turn the open edge of the bag towards the bottom, the liquid will not have time to reach the sealing point. And I don’t understand the option "wet product" - I haven’t used such a vacuum apparatus. I only read

If you turn the open edge of the bag towards the bottom, the liquid will not have time to reach the sealing point.

Oops .. I didn't understand the algorithm ...
Does it squeeze all the air out of the inner bag? Even if my picture does not add up ... Water is below, air is above, flatten it ... What is below, crawls out into the space between the packages in the first place, doesn't it?

I'll shoot myself right now. Next time I'll take a good look at everything. And I'll try without a bag.

[Anna1957]

Anna1957, our task is to minimize the amount of air. The inner bag certainly doesn't make it easier. I do it on a cheap Tinton and don't pay much attention to the full spin of the air. Well, a little will remain - and okay. It's not hard for me to keep the packet from floating for 8 hours.

I'll shoot myself right now

You'd better tell me - is the package falling to the bottom or trying to float?

To be honest, for several years I removed air just in a bag under water and did not suffer much from this. )) But I don't have much paranoia about "polyethylene vapor", I confess. After all the "smoke" that I sniffed around the campfire as a child or after realizing what we breathe in the city .. ((

I do not pay much attention to the complete extraction of air.

And I would not pay, you can always press down with a plate so that it does not float. The problem is that it DOES NOT SEAL when fluid is sucked into the seam.

Does the package fall to the bottom or try to float?

Differently. I press it with a plate and don't worry.

In the cartoon? And do you put a grate under the bottom so as not to overheat?

In the cartoon? And do you put a grate under the bottom so as not to overheat?

But you must? Damn, I happen to be doing everything wrong

Wait sob !!! This I just said, according to logic (Bizhusina, of course). But we separate the jars for sterilization from the hot bottom.And the meat needs an even and not too high temperature, if you press it against the heating element, won't it be hotter than necessary in this place?

But we separate the jars for sterilization from the hot bottom.

I roll them up without sterilization, and sterilize the empty ones in the mic. Somehow I have bypassed all these moments until now.

DOES NOT SEAL when fluid is sucked into the seam.

I have one and a half centimeters between the seam and the edge of the bag (the edge through which air is sucked off). If liquids are sucked into the seam, after the first sealing, I wipe this place with a napkin to make it dry, and then I make a second seam at this place, higher than the first, along a dry bag. I often do this for long-term dry salting and when I assume long-term subsequent storage without opening (well, for example, I make meat in portions of 500-600 grams, several portions at once so that I can take it out and eat it in 2-3 days)

But for the first time it seems to be sealed normally. And what does it mean not sealed, is there a lot of liquid being sucked in? The maximum that ran into me was a couple of drops into the groove of the packer. And at the same time it was sealed.

How to make it suck less - I have already told you, put it on the edge of the table so that the bag hangs vertically - and, looking at the bag, suction air manually. The liquid went - slowed down, let it drain, continued. During the pause, you can wrinkle the bag to expel air bubbles. By the way, that's why I don't understand how to use the inner bag - it will leave air bubbles inside with a guarantee.

PS. Yes, if it is not soldered at all, you can try, without opening the packer, to manually make a second solder in the same place. Maybe the packages are substandard, maybe the solder is weak ... You can, at the start of the soldering, press harder, help him better push the film at the seam.

The liquid has gone - slowed down,

What is it like? Clicked stop?

Oh, how many there are! Tell me who knows. When I vacuum the bones, sometimes the bag then swells. I wrap the sharp edges or lay them with a napkin, it doesn't seem to pierce, I put no bubbles in the water. It is not clear what the problem is ... Because of the film, maybe?

What is it like? Clicked stop?

I have one button controlled. Pressed - shakes, pressed - braked - while the green lamp is on. If you do not brake, it tries to push it all the way - and when a vacuum is obtained, it turns on the red lamp and the seal.

Yes, I do the same. That is, if I see that the liquid is approaching the edge of the bag, should I press the Start button （cancel）? Wait until the liquid goes down and press again? Do this until all the air is gone and then press the spike forcibly?

Hello everyone! I got into the hands of the Proficuk 1080 device. I began to study what kind of animal and how to work with it, questions arose. Honestly, in 2 days I read 100 pages of the forum)), but then I simply have no strength. Therefore, I will ask)
Botulism is most annoying; it seems to develop in an airless environment.
Or am I missing something?
How to be safe?
What are the rules for safe evacuation?
The same Su view does not give the product the temperature required for the destruction of botulism. Can the product be stored directly in the package after sous vide?
Marinating the same kebab in a vacuum bag, how to do it safely?
Do not pour nitrite salt everywhere, especially since it is not used if the product will be subjected to high-temperature processing, like a kebab ...

Wait until the liquid goes down and press again?

uh huh

Do this until all the air is gone

or until you get bored))) I have enough for 2-3 times)))

Then press the shapayka forcibly?

Now, if it does not start to solder itself (my button lights up in red), then we press on the top cover all the way, which helps the device to make the decision that he himself will not dare to make)))

[KorS]

KorS,

Having received shocking information about the direct threat of home conservation to life, many housewives decided that they would not roll up the banks, but freeze the harvest.But alas, this is not a solution to the problem. Freezing does not kill the tenacious botulism bacteria. Spores can survive in incredibly cold temperatures, releasing deadly toxins. Cases have been identified where spores survived cooling down to -190 ° C in laboratory conditions. Freezing that modern household freezers allow is no more than -18 ° C. Drying vegetables, fruits, or fish that have come into contact with botulism-contaminated soil or intestinal contents does not work either. Disputes can remain viable for several decades.

Very encouraging information)) And what to do? ))

Very encouraging information)) And what to do? ))

It's elementary: we buy an autoclave for every family and autoclave all products at T = 120 degrees, then all spores will die guaranteed!
The main thing is to start the topic: "Home autoclave" "Home autoclaving recipes"!
In general, the logic is simple, follow the basic rules of hygiene and there will be happiness.
I also read about botulism on the Internet and was very surprised how we are all still alive!
It's like Jerome's (Three in a boat ... "): when he started reading a medical encyclopedia, he discovered that the only disease he doesn't have is birth fever!

in general, you know less - sleep better)))
What is elementary hygiene rules? We are not discussing personal hygiene here, but vacuum sealers and their use for packaging food) or does it mean that meat should be washed with soap?))
By the way, I bought a fragrance in the dishwasher. Everything is cool, the dishes smell good, only the food is now with this taste)))
Previously, I did not think about this topic until I watched a program about botulism, a person, roughly speaking, ate domestic pickles, then he was treated for half a year and now he is a lifelong invalid. Well, at least he stayed alive and that's good ...
There is always something for the first time, I don’t want to hope for it, just like living life as a vegetable out of stupidity))

or does it mean that the meat should be washed with soap?))

why wash it, ay, walk like that ..... tobish wash so wash. .. into the washing machine and that's it

Everything is cool, the dishes smell good, only the food is now with this flavor

I bought from different manufacturers, one is absolutely wonderful, and the second is similar, that is, all dishes with a smell, and very persistent. (threw out
however, an interesting Temka about vacuum equipment ... so smoothly migrated from bags and seals to medicine and hygiene

or does it mean that the meat should be washed with soap?))

You do not need to use soap - but you should wash after the store and before packing, because:

There are three large categories of pathogenic microorganisms, defined as psychrophilic, mesophilic and thermophilic.
Psychrophilic microorganisms live at temperatures from 10 to 20 * C
Mesophilic - from 20-25 to 40-45 * С
Thermophilic viable at temperatures up to 55-60 * С
At ideal temperatures, each category reproduces quickly and actively, and the pH level (acidity of the product) also affects the rate of reproduction and survival.

Microorganisms under ideal conditions can grow and double in number every 15-20 minutes. Initial - 1 CFU, one colony forming unit:
- after 3 hours they reach more than 200;
- after 6 hours they reach more than 200 thousand;
- after 9 hours they reach more than 200 million;
- in 12 hours they reach more than 200 billion.

And then - "fresh-steamed" meat does not come to the counter immediately after slaughter, sterile, but after a few days, it is stored in different places and in different conditions, temperature regimes. And a whole cloud of microbes in the air flies, even indoors. And the carcasses are also cut under different conditions, on different boards, counters, which are not always removed. And the meat is stored on an open counter, all day, and people walk around, they drive dust with microbes.

I always wash and then dry the meat with a towel before packing it into bags, because "dirty" meat packed in bags, when defrosting, will only continue contamination "with old yeast"

We have already talked about this Freezing meat - sharing our experience

I always wash and then towel dry the meat before packing in bags.

Well, everything is wonderfully painted, (which means I am doing the right thing, always mine, and why never thought about it, a habit and that's all. Thank you Tatyana for the detailed explanation.

why wash it, oh, walk like that ... you want to wash like that. .. into the washing machine and that's it

))) And what ... Why can't you see a washing machine?))) Water inside, maintains temperature, there is a timer))) Somewhere in the vastness of YouTube there was a video about how to cook in a washing machine))

however, an interesting Temka about vacuum equipment ... so smoothly migrated from bags and seals to medicine and hygiene

Well, how long can you talk about bags and jars? I read the first 100 pages, it only says about it))

You do not need to use soap - but you should wash after the store and before packing, because:

Now, already constructive, thanks!

Of course, shop and market meat needs to be washed, but one eminent chef, I remember my surname, but I won't say, I don't want stones to fly at him, I said, you should try not to wash the meat, the taste and aromas go away, by the way, the same about champignenas, many of them do not wash, the aromas leave, and this is not beneficial for them

Of course, shop and market meat needs to be washed, but one eminent chef, I remember my surname, but I won't say, I don't want stones to fly at him, I said, you should try not to wash the meat, the taste and aromas go away, by the way, the same about champignenas, many of them do not wash, the aromas leave, and this is not beneficial for them

and I heard this from the eminent chef in terms of red fish that you should not wash it in any case, but only blot it and wipe it off with a paper towel)

Girls, explain to the ignorant, pistol vacuum drawers do not pump out of roll ones? I can't choose between Caso TouchVAC and Kitfort KT-1501, your opinion?

[SoNika]

SoNika, I'm not a girl, but I'll try to answer, for pistols there are special bags with a latch on top of the bag, there is a valve on the side, a pistol is connected there. I don’t have such a thing, but what people read writes that such packages are not durable, so think again, maybe a desktop vacuum cleaner is better?

[garru]

garruthank you
So I'm thinking is it worth taking it CASO TouchVAC or buy a newer model? Nowhere is it written what he really does .., no video, no reviews, and what containers are suitable for him?

[SoNika]

SoNika, I looked at CASO TouchVAC, it works with special packages, an expensive consumable. (jars too, the only thing is an adapter, but there are other options This was discussed
Vacuum Sealer # 4450
packages for it are smooth (you can buy additional jars with an adapter
review-test of this packer
Here
if interested, I can look for a link where to get

[Svetlana]

Svetlana, thanks, he's good, he's .. but he's nowhere on sale ...

[SoNika]

SoNika, so he is current with the Chinese on Ali (delivery, I had it for a week, now I'll look at what he has there now with the price and write



Virinelook he is here

, but now the price is high, (people saw it for 2800 rubles, I bought for 3207r, discounts are often. If you stop on it, then wait for a bigger discount

Good day, thank you Svetlana. I'll consider first. what can you tell me and I can "touch"
Well, I'm still a mess in this, I can't figure out which packages are better and get them without any problems ...
On vacuum equipment in Mvideo, some kind of action, according to a promo code of 1000 rubles, but I have not found the code yet, I have problems with the Internet, it’s difficult to enter here too ... on Ozone it is still cheaper

🔗

Here's a comparative table I found !!! Judging by it, the best option for CASO VC 300 Pro is a vacuum sealer

vacuum sealer Gochu, model 470, know what thread? I can't choose between CASO VC 300 Pro, STATUS SV 2000 and gucci !!! Help with your opinions.

Today I received the Profi Cook PC-VK 1080, I hope I will not regret choosing it, at the OZONE issue point they asked me for a long time what it was for, when I told them they looked at me like an alien, then they said a big thank you. Now, if not for our site and I would not know

[Svetlana]

Svetlana, Congratulations