Furniture for kitchen

the most practical solution

Which does not fit normally without redevelopment.

Tatiana, wrote that the wardrobe will be made by the master. As a rule, these masters come with their own vision and their best practices. They insist on their own version and very often they implement it ...

Yeah. Once I had to order a built-in wardrobe in a niche 1 meter wide. I wanted the furniture makers to fasten a small harness to the walls, to which two hinged doors would be attached. And the shelves and hangers in the closet will hold onto the side walls of the niche.
The measurer came, I explained to him what I wanted. Measurer: "bububu, so we cannot guarantee that everything will be smooth, bububu, your walls are not perfectly vertical, bububu, you need to make a cabinet cabinet." And in the end, the niche is really not a built-in, but a cabinet cabinet.
And over time, I appreciated the beauty of such a decision. Let lost a few centimeters from the width of the cabinet. But if you need a cosmetic repair, this cabinet can simply be pulled out of the niche and rearranged to another place. They would have made it built-in - in that case, you would have to fiddle with dismantling and installing the cabinet.

[Ukka]

Ukka, You are getting tired lately. In many topics, you arrange indecency.

[Patchouli_ t123]

Patchouli_ t123, I was just thinking about a kitchen apron in your kitchen.
But with an apron, you get troubles in the kitchen in a line.
You are worried about the transitions between tiles and paint on the ventilation box, you tried to draw some open shelves to cover the transition.
And I advised you to simply cover the entire box in visible places.
And you figure out what's on the left, where the cooking is, with transitions from tile to paint it turns out ...
Cooking is not far from the corner, the corner will have to be veneered exactly. There are no tall objects that could close the passage ...
It will turn out something like this, only in the place of the table between the cooking and the sink in the photo - you have a cooking, and a table to the left and right of it ..

This photo looks more like this:


What can you suggest here:
a) to score on the transition and the precepts of Mishan Shaposhnikov and other aesthetes about joining different finishing materials only at the inner corners, and in no case in the middle of the plane or at the outer corner.
You do, as in the pictures above, and you calm down.
b) try to come up with a layout in which there will be some tall object in that corner (the first thing that comes to mind is to remove the bulky holdos from the kitchen entrance to the corner, but something does not work out with the rearrangement of the coldness, I calculated this option , but did not voice it. Something either did not fit in it, or it was bad, I don’t remember, I have to count it again).
c) use glass or large tiles, the same color as the walls in the kitchen, to protect the walls on the sides of the headset. Well, for example, choose large-format tiles of some light color. let's say, the color of baked milk, he seems to have to marry normally with the chosen doors. And paint the walls in the kitchen in the color of the tiles.
The transition and end of the tile will still be visible, but will not stand out so much.

In the options for Anchik, I remembered the moment about facing the corner, there was not a single one where it would be urgently necessary to trim the corner by the window, and when I drew options for you, I was distracted by the debate about the U-shaped kitchen, and forgot about the nuances of finishing ...

Girls and boys, can you please tell me if the hood can be brought out directly into the street? In a sense, do not pull through the entire kitchen above the cabinets, but immediately bring it out into the street (the stove will be quite close to the outer wall, the wall is not load-bearing). And won't it be cold in the kitchen afterwards from this hole? Or is it somehow insulated?

And won't it be cold in the kitchen afterwards from this hole? Or is it somehow insulated?

Our hood is brought out to the street. Not cold from the word at all .. No additional warming is needed. We didn't do anything.

[Galina]

Galina, Thank you. It's just that we have gas, and now you can't shut off natural ventilation. Therefore, I am thinking over options with a hood.

It's just that we have gas, and now you can't shut off natural ventilation. Therefore, I am thinking over options with a hood.

We have an electric stove .. We have no gas. but my mother has an extractor hood over a gas stove with charcoal filters at home, but next to the stove we always open the window and the window when we cook, even if the extractor hood is working. I liked that hood. For a long time, however, repairs were made 20 years ago.

can the hood be brought out directly to the street?

I think it is even necessary. Do not block the ventilation of the entire apartment with a pipe. My hood is also brought out into the street. There is a check valve in the pipe and cold air will not enter in any way. No cold, gas stove.

[Anchic]

Anchic, Anna, now my hood is brought out into the street. Not have ventilation. If installed correctly, then normal.
There, when the motor is running and blowing air out into the street, the curtains of the partition rise. When the hood is turned off, the curtains melt evenly and prevent air from the street from entering the kitchen. And you have to cut the wall there with a special apparatus. And it seems that this is not entirely legal. But in our country many people do this in dormitory areas. So it was with me. But the father-in-law decided to update this device and kapets. Apparently he put it crookedly when the wind flaps strongly and siphon under the hood. Already blowing. In winter, it's generally kapets. I can't find a master, they say I need to be paired with a climber, because you can't get out of the window. But somehow they put it without a climber. Koooche for me this question is open in the direction of replacing the air tunnel.
And the hood for such a thing is called a chimney (fireplace).

Patchouli_ t123, and a bulky object at the entrance to the kitchen in a linear version does not bother you?
I'm trying to come up with something else, to move the refrigerator to the corner of the niche under the kitchen, so that the entrance to the kitchen seems more free and so that there are fewer problems with transitions from tile to paint, but so far nothing good has come out. A very large refrigerator, except for the corner near the ventilation box, does not normally want to climb into other corners.

And you also wrote that outside, in the corridor, on a large wall near the kitchen door, there is an electrical panel and some kind of communications
And in the photo that your neighbor gave you, next to the shield at the bottom of the floor, you can see a stamp, but what is in it is not visible.
Is this the introduction of water into the kitchen or what?



And another question for you. And you were not interested, for the selected model of the refrigerator, when installed in a corner, how much space should be taken away from the side of the refrigerator so that it opens normally? Is 10 cm enough?

[Anna]

Therefore, I am thinking over options with a hood.

AnnaHere's what I thought: an apartment building, windows and balconies nearby, are open, but will there be complaints from neighbors about the aromas flying to them? Okay, pies and bread, what if fish or cutlets ... It happens that they complain about smoke if they smoke from the balcony.

[Svetlana]

Svetlana, we have no balconies on this side. And our kitchens are not on the same level as the rooms, there the cutout near the house is U-shaped and the kitchens have been reduced by more than a meter with this "prettiness" Well, on the other hand, they smoke in our windows, let my cutlets endure. sometimes through the hood it happens from the neighbors something pulls - well, you won't run and search. And in the entrance there are culinary smells. It seems that no one makes claims to anyone.

[Patchouli_ t123]

Patchouli_ t123, I was just thinking about a kitchen apron in your kitchen.
But with an apron, you get troubles in the kitchen in a line.

Even before meeting with the door I liked, in the store I looked at the 120x60 tiles on the apron. I thought it was what I needed. There should be a minimum of seams and not easily soiled.
Otozh the shelf and hooked on one side. On the other hand, it is really an ambush.
I dream of a seamless tile :-) Won't such tiles work?

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The last is matte.

[Tatyana]

Tatyana, I will tell you my opinion - such a drawing of a tile on an apron would tire me over time.
This is the kitchen, it turns out the illusion of something spilled, and I just want to take a rag and wipe these stains to cleanliness, IMHO, no offense

[Tatyana]

Tatyana, about the size of the tiles - here renard gave a video from the bald man about the choice of this size. Take a look. Now I will look for and give a link to the message.



I found it here: Kitchen furniture # 7894

Tatyana, about the size of the tiles - here renard gave a video from the bald man about the choice of this size. Take a look. Now I will look for and give a link to the message.

no, the video is not about choosing a size. That video is about calculating the layout of tiles, that is, how to lay out the tiles so that there are no small scraps in prominent places.
About the size was in the video of another "video guru" - the architect-designer Mishani Shaposhnikov, in many ways the antipode of Zemskov. He simply stated that the larger the tile, the better. But this is a rather controversial opinion.
And it is certainly reasonable to take into account the size of the room and the size of the tiles when choosing a tile.
The less cuts to fit the desired layout, the less breakage and the more chances the tiler will lay the tiles normally. This does not mean that the tiles must be selected directly to the size of the room.
Cutting will be anyway. It's just that with some format it can turn out more for a beautiful layout, but with some less.

Even before meeting with the door I liked, in the store I looked at the 120x60 tiles on the apron.

We discussed 120x60 tiles in the topic. You will need to first talk to the tiler if he can handle this size. It may not be overpowering. And I also mentioned somewhere about the disadvantages of a very large format for an apron. The main disadvantage, besides not very simple laying and cutting, is that local alterations and repairs are difficult on an apron made of such a tile.
In the process of using, we realized that we made a mistake with the sockets and it was necessary to move the block of outlets - with smaller tiles, it is easier to correct the error. Or, in the process of use, they damaged the tiles or glaze on the tiles - it is easier to replace the smaller tiles.
And in operation, of course, a large size on an apron will be more practical than a small one. There are fewer seams.
And an apron made of large-format tiles will cost less than an apron made of glass.
In the subject I showed a photo of a large kitchen-living room, the owners of which planned to install glass on the apron in the color of the painted wall. But they counted so much for this apron that they decided that it was easier to glue a large-format monochrome 60x60 and paint the wall under it than to steam up with glass. Moreover, because of the sockets, the glass would still have turned out with a seam.

Dreaming about seamless tiles :-)

It is not good to lay tiles without a seam. In addition, there are many tiles that do not have very good geometry and which simply cannot be laid normally without a seam.
A tiler about large-format Spanish Porcelanose tiles, their cutting and seams:

About 2 mm, he may have overdone it. 1.5 mm is also a normal seam.
There are special tile cutters for cutting large format, but if the tiler has finished buying a very cool tool, he will not ask for little money for his services.
Do they usually have what's in their arsenal? Yes, what the uncle has on the video. Manual tile cutter, grinder, it is good if diamond holes are drilled. Someone has grown up to electric cutters. And that's all.
And a specific tool, some kind of dremel and renovator for jewelry work, or a tile cutter for cutting a huge tile is not for many.

Such will not work?

I like the drawing in the second photo more than in the first and third.
The one with smaller veins.

The master, whose work I saw at a friend's house and agreed to repair, works with a large format. And it turned out very nicely. I had never looked at such a tile before. She has large-format walls in the bathroom.
And the live drawing and the photo are completely different.The photo does not convey, but I liked it better than not.

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[Patchouli_ t123]

Patchouli_ t123, when will you start a separate topic about repairs in your new building?

Catch. Radial closet in the corridor, passing from one depth to another, the one that I marked on the page from the old catalog of a Russian furniture factory.
Tynts, and smoothly flows around the corner at the turn, moving to a small depth of the cabinets:

But ... I already wrote, the solution is expensive, while the corner cabinet is more inconvenient in operation compared to the direct one. It is not known in your area whether it is possible to buy or manufacture this or not. Their furniture makers are good, but it is not known whether they can depict a streamlined four-thread. After all, the factory bought curved facades near the cabinets in the catalog from Nemchura. joint venture.
Therefore, the previous drawings were with straight wardrobes and with proposals for redevelopment with an increase in the corridor at the expense of the room.
The corridor is narrow after the turn. so that at the end of it and the door of the 70th to the bathroom to stick, and to put the furniture along it deep, and so that at the turn it was more or less free, and not a hole. It is easier to move or mow the wall than to count on furniture that is rare in nature.

The master, whose work I saw at a friend's house and agreed to repair, works with a large format.

Well then why not. 120x60 layout perfectly marries with a linear layout and niche sizes for kitchen installation. that you got from the developer.
niche 235 wide without plaster. In one corner there is a sink 80, in the other corner, at a distance of 30 centimeters from the wall, there is cooking.
235 - 120 = 115.
It turns out two tiles for the entire length of the niche. One whole, one slightly cropped.
In this case, the seam on the tile does not fall either behind the sink or the "stove".
And on the sides, too, comes out in large pieces. There is one tile along the box. cut a little in length, a small piece of tile on the side of the box. There is another piece of tiles on the side near the slab.
Only 4 pieces. And one more piece is needed above the stove. if you make the shelves higher above the stove or do not hang a shelf above it at all.

And the live drawing and the photo are completely different. The photo does not convey, but I liked it better than not.

Is there the same one, but with mother-of-pearl buttons? (from)
And just under a stone, without pictures, there is something similar :?

Is there the same one, but with mother-of-pearl buttons? (from)
And just under a stone, without pictures, there is something similar :?

There are many different and beautiful :-)
I will choose in this store

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A friend promised a card with a 20% discount.

Girls, help .. Something I thought at my leisure and I do not like the version that the furniture maker drew. The free working space is 86 cm (between the sink and the stove) + a piece to the right of the stove is 40 cm. Neither a microwave oven, nor a kettle, nor a multicooker can be properly put .. I mean, you can put it, but what will I cook on then? Can I corner it to the left side (opposite the window)?
The refrigerator is in the left corner, the sink is in the right (or?) And then the dining area will have to be taken into the room, because it will not fit anymore ... although ... a small table for the two of us will probably rise by the window, but is it necessary? Although I love tight spaces and love to have tea in the kitchen
I hadn't figured out how to take a picture so that it would be clear what kind of kitchen I had, so I shot a video. Just do not pay attention to the situation, there is still no furniture in the house, no laminate on the floor, I was in the process of painting, just today I primed the walls of the kitchen. I don’t have enough hands for everything. Only with a septic tank I loosened up, I’ll paint it, I’ll paint it, I’ll go dig it, pop it, paint it again But you can see how you like it, in the complex

I will choose in this store

You didn’t answer about putting water into the kitchen. Where is he? In the corridor on the wall behind the refrigerator or what?
Downstairs in a strab, like the neighbor in the photo? Or at the top? (this kind of crap, it turns out, also happens in a modern new building, the water input is somewhere under the ceiling)
I remember that I had the first "culture shock" and "break of the template" from the technologies of building new high-rise buildings 15-20 years ago, when I came to visit my friend in a renovated apartment in a monolithic-brick skyscraper with horizontal heating, and I saw the snot of the heating wiring on the floor, not yet covered with a screed. 23rd floor ... Water pipes in the floor throughout the apartment. The very first thoughts from what we saw were: "Yo ... How is that? And so now you can also build? And if the jamb in the installation or poor-quality pipe material and some pipe will flow after pouring the screed?"
Not only heating pipes. but the water supply pipes in the screed, seen in another new building, after this episode surprised, but not so much. The owner of that apartment was puzzled over how to connect a water towel to the hot water supply so that there was circulation in it. But in no way ... Electric to put.
Today, here's another break in the template. They showed a photo of an apartment in a high-rise building, where the water supply to the apartment is under the ceiling.

Girls, help ..

I am not able to telepathic dimensions without a floor plan from the video with an empty kitchen.
And I think others, too, will not be able to guess the size of the kitchen from the video to the nearest centimeter.
It is necessary to draw a plan with dimensions. Let it not be on a computer in some kind of prog, even on a piece of paper by hand, with non-compliance with the scale, the main thing is that the numbers are read normally.

Height 2400, length 3160, width 2460, arch width 100
It was thought so initially
I'll go tomorrow, what else to measure?

There are also sizes up to the sockets and between them, before the ventilation, right?

You didn’t answer about putting water into the kitchen. Where is he? In the hallway on the wall behind the refrigerator or what?
Downstairs in the strut, like the neighbor in the photo? Or at the top?

🤔 I find out in the house chat. What and how to ask?

There are also sizes up to the sockets and between them, before the ventilation, right?

You need a floor plan with readable dimensions. Upload somewhere other than your local gallery. Because the gallery engine shrinks the loaded images. When a photo of some cutlet or cake is reduced, it doesn't really affect anything. When the plan is reduced with so small numbers, it becomes impossible to see anything.
It is impossible to read the numbers on the plan you have uploaded, even if you open the image in full size and zoom in on the display even more, see for yourself.
At first I tried to upload plans to the gallery. I downloaded it a couple of times, posted a message, I look, but the numbers on the plan are not readable. After that, I began to upload pictures with plans to another hosting of images, where the pictures do not decrease after loading.

and so?

What and how to ask?

What is the distribution system of cold and hot water supply in the house - vertical, with risers in the apartment, or horizontal, from common risers in the interroom hall, with two leads coming into the apartment from the interroom hall and sticking out from the floor or from the ceiling.
Where in kitchens and in bathrooms in odnukha like yours there are risers of cold water supply, hot water supply or water inlets to the apartment.
If there are apartments in the house where water connections stick out from the ceiling, then on which floors, and is there such crap in apartments on the same floor as yours.

and so?

This is more or less readable if you open the image at full size and zoom in on it. Only the members of the forum who answered the topic for some reason rarely look at the plans, and when, in order to see the plan, you also need to poke the mouse several times, and at least watch the plan from the tablet, and in general the chances that they will look become very small.
Can you put the numbers on the plan even more big-eyed so that everyone can see it better?

But how much more, you don't even need to increase it, everything is visible

[Aunt Besya]

Aunt Besya, I do not know. I look at the picture from the laptop. I described what I was doing to see the numbers in the picture. I open the image. I can distinguish the numbers, but with an eye strain, so I increase the display scale.
The plan lacks the size of the walls near the windows and doors.And designations with dimensions where the sewer and water connections are. Well, that's okay, water and sewerage, from the video they can somehow make out. And you will sign the piers near the window and the door ...

Now there are no sizes, I measure as I go. But they are not very important either, because the corner is only needed to the left and opposite the entrance. From the wall to the cashing of the window, a meter with a pretty penny (the table top will easily rise by 70, on the other hand 25-30 cm, I will clarify. But there is absolutely nothing to put there .. Gas inlet in the wall to the right of the entrance (balloon), water and sewage in the right corner at the bottom, can be extended to any distance

[Aunt Besya]

Aunt Besya, and if the kitchen is wrapped along two walls and a table in front of the window?
Or is the kitchen to the left of the arch and further along the left wall?

Input

yeah, I see. Then the wall is opposite and left

[Lelka]

Lelka, the table by the window is probably quite small if only two can sit down - to the right of the window and opposite. But we, in fact, together and will be mostly. Well, if there is a son, then in the room

[Elena]

Elena, you can even make two corners. And it is not necessary to completely occupy the opposite wall. The partition from the arch to the left is large.

Well, if the son will

Then it will already be seen. And I like the little table by the window.

the table by the window is probably quite small

and so I propose to free up half of the wall opposite so that there is a place to sit.
I do not have a drawing room on my computer, everything is at home there.

You mean by the letter "P"? What's the point? The width of the kitchen is not great. Yes, probably not so much .. Now, if the table stood up to the window, it would be superb. Somehow I don't see a place for a table in my living room ..

That is, you will get on the wall 2460 opposite the window and the letter "P" with short legs)))

And what will it give me? On the right, up to the "short leg", four pipes will be visible.

Now, if the table stood up to the window, it would be superb.

Then it will rise. Divide the kitchen in two along the left arch pillar. Left side of the kitchen, right side for the table

What's the point?

A work surface will appear, you can put your micra. You can hide a lot in corner cabinets.

Well, you can definitely think of something for Aunt Basie. As for the U-shaped or braided around the window, you can creak with your brains when all sizes are.

as many as four pipes ..

Decorate with a narrow shelf. You can put something from the table on it, attach culinary books

[And I don't want to drag the corrugation for the hood through the whole room either.]

Not "P" is not worth it, I am not going anywhere, I am quite satisfied with "G", only here is how to place the cabinets so that the sockets, which are already a reality, do not hit either opposite the stove or opposite the sink. And so one double socket at the bottom of the plinth, which was made under the refrigerator, will disappear .. And I don't want to drag the corrugation for the hood through the whole room either.

four pipes will be visible ..

This will take about 30 cm from the wall. Maybe less.

And so one double socket at the bottom of the plinth, which was made under the refrigerator, will disappear ..

and if the wither cord is lengthened or an extension cord is used? And the socket will be activated. Put the cord into the box along the plinth or floor.

And I don't want to drag the corrugation for the hood through the whole room either.

Clear. For some reason I thought that you have an exhaust pipe next to the chimney.

From the wall to the cashing of the window, a meter with a pretty penny (the tabletop will easily rise by 70, on the other hand 25-30 cm, I will clarify.

How is it not to put anything in 30 cm? And a small coffee maker? A small worldwave with a small collision outside the window? And a toy radio or music center?
And the pencil case is small, shallow, with glasses, to arrange some beautiful things in it?

For the refrigerator in the case of "G" there will be a kopeck piece just behind it, it was originally planned for a sconce. Then the one that at the baseboard kopeck piece can go for something that will get closer to the corner .. There are 15 sockets in the kitchen.On the left wall there are two kopeck pieces, on the wall opposite the entrance there are two kopeck pieces at the baseboard, 1 high for pulling in and two treshki above the table



Ideally, there would be a chair to the table by the window.

[Elena]

Elena, what's behind the wall 3160?

[Aunt Besya]

Aunt Besya, well, I watched the end of your video, even a couple of times on slow viewing.
I tried to see important details. I saw that there was no battery under the window. I saw where the sewer outlet was, but I could not determine the distance to the corner from the video. I could not see the exit under the hood at all.
Do you plan to put a battery under the window someday?
Or it was not there, and is not in the plans, and you can safely arrange kitchen furniture under the window, without fear of spoiling your kitchen heating?
The height of the sill is then still necessary.

Part of the bathroom (2m) and part of the corridor (1m). The video shows such a corner, there is a stool, in the future there will be a chest of drawers



The battery (convector) is just temporarily removed, I'm painting there now

Part of the bathroom (2m) and part of the corridor (1m).

so pipes can be introduced into the kitchen from there. Moreover, the bathroom is behind the wall

Then, in addition to the height of the window sill, the location and dimensions of the convector are necessary.

so pipes can be introduced into the kitchen from there. Moreover, the bathroom is behind the wall

they are from there and are introduced already from the right corner farthest from the entrance and along the long wall along the bottom. This is a frame, a special penetration was made there at the construction stage, all the films are glued, it cannot be changed

This is the frame

Although I have an extension frame, everything is taken out of the floor.
That is, you immediately laid the direct kitchen.