Repair bucket VM250, master class ...

[AntonovAA1]

AntonovAA1 About the lubricant was in this thread https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=36855.0 Good luck with your repairs!

[crank]

...
PS: The shaft jammed after, after the bread was cut, the bucket was immediately put into the bread maker without washing and stood there for a week. I hope my bitter experience will teach someone.
I wanted to post a photo, but I can't figure out how to do it ...

It was easy to help your grief by filling and placing a bucket in hot water. Having soaked, the remaining baked goods would not interfere with the rotation of the shaft.

It is also useful to add water when baking last, the gland will be more intact.
And don't forget crank mixer shaft immediately at the end of baking effortlessly.
The bucket will then serve for a long time.
However, if the shaft jam (boil over), then you have to pre-soak.

[crank]

It was easy to help your grief by filling and placing a bucket in hot water. Having soaked, the remaining baked goods would not interfere with the rotation of the shaft.

It is also useful to add water last, the seal will be more intact.
And don't forget crank mixer shaft immediately at the end of baking effortlessly.
The bucket will then serve for a long time.
However, if the shaft jam (boil), then you have to pre-soak.

I also thought of this before, it stood for a long time from the mountains with water, the result was zero ...

Girls and boys. Just before the new year, I ordered myself a bucket for Kenwood 450. I have already received it. The cost of the bucket with delivery cost me 235 UAH.
🔗
Here I ordered. There were buckets for many bread makers! I recommend leaving an order and they will call you back. They called me back literally 30 minutes later. The girl asked everything and sent it to me the next day. For the new year I was already with a new bucket. Mine is still leaking, but I decided not to wait. Before that, I had already ordered a round round from another company, the current was waiting there for 1.5 months. And here everything is operational!

how much is it in rubles?
I bought half a year ago such a bucket for 1000 now lies there for 1900. A round 2800
Better to restore the old. And I bought a bread maker for 5600 - it is better to buy another one and there will be a spare oven

how much is it in rubles?
I bought half a year ago such a bucket for 1000 now lies there for 1900. A round 2800
Better to restore the old. Yes, and I bought a bread maker for 5600 - it is better to buy one more and there will be a spare oven

How to say. How many in rubles I can't say, but in dollars something about $ 29 with delivery! It was easier for me to buy a new bucket!

[AntonovAA1]

AntonovAA1 Graphite is certainly good, but IMHO you need the lubricant mentioned above, too much load on it, although the speed is not large.

I also thought of this before, it stood for a long time from the mountains, the result was zero ...

It was necessary to drip Shumanite to remove carbon deposits and continue to shake the shaft, or use any very fluid liquid (preferably not very toxic). Use ice and hot water. You just didn't have the patience.
In Panasonic it was recovering in a similar situation, but I did not want to press out the oil seal.

I didn't want to look for something different lubricants, and they cost money. Everything works fine with no problem, yet. There was no lubrication at all.

and it was definitely unrealistic to swing the shaft, it even stood a little at an angle or it seemed. I barely knocked it out, let alone swing it. So stuck.

I tried on someone's advice to first pour flour, then pour water. The result is the same, the bread is no different.Only this is done without a delay mode, so that the water does not come into contact with the yeast ahead of time.

By the way, there is a question, can anyone come across such a problem. The stirrer is covered with a non-stick coating so that it separates from the bread without damaging it. At first it was a couple of pastries, but then she began to pull out a hefty piece of bread. What is the problem? There is an option that due to changes in recipes, there are bran eggs, nuts.

[PQK]

By the way, if anyone can help, I found the manufacturer of these fucking oil seals (marking PQK)
"Zhejiang SHANGYU Seal Oil Co., Ltd." (China of course)
🔗

They are found in the sections "silicon oil seals" and / or "Rubber hoses, rings and heat-resistent connecters for food, drink and hotwater"

I did not find any standard sizes on their home site, but on the site " 🔗"there is a reference to the standard size 8-19-8 (" 🔗"), the seller is still the same "Zhejiang SHANGYU Seal Oil Co., Ltd."
Price: $ 0.05 ~ $ 3.5

As a rule, the Chinese do not disdain small batches, you can try to order directly

on my Kenwood BM350 came up almost perfectly from moulinex something like this 🔗 the only drawback was that my stirrer was very low, (she would have scratched the Teflon), put a ring under it from the dead oil seal. And the oil seals in Chelyabinsk are 300 rubles. sell in the spare parts store Rembyttekhnika along with such buckets. I took the bucket itself for 1200.

Instead of bushings in the Kenwood bucket, I put needle roller bearings of the NK081412, NK081414, 942/8, NK101412, NK101414 types. The shaft was sharpening a new one. Instead of an upper stopper on the shaft, he sharpened a collar with a diameter of 14 mm and a thickness of 2 mm. For lubrication, I used Smar TF thermal grease (SILIKON + TEFLON -40 do + 400gradC). For lubrication in the bottom, I drilled a hole from the bottom, cut the M5 thread and installed an oiler with a ball under the gun. Lubricate carefully so as not to squeeze the oil seal

Instead of bushings in the Kenwood bucket, I put needle roller bearings of the NK081412, NK081414, 942/8, NK101412, NK101414 types. The shaft was sharpening a new one. Instead of an upper stopper on the shaft, he sharpened a collar with a diameter of 14 mm and a thickness of 2 mm. For lubrication, I used Smar TF thermal grease (SILIKON + TEFLON -40 do + 400gradC). For lubrication in the bottom, I drilled a hole from the bottom, cut the M5 thread and installed an oiler with a ball under the gun. Lubricate carefully so as not to squeeze the oil seal

I forgot to add thick grease, so before greasing the bucket, I put the bucket in the bread maker with my feet and warmed it up in the fast baking mode, removed the lower stopper, impeller and compensating bronze washers before heating and when refueling with a pistol, lightly pressed on the shaft so that the grease in the resulting gap between the upper shaft shoulder fell into the bearing and protruded between the shaft and the bearing from the side where the impeller is installed. When washing the bucket, you need to ensure that water does not enter the bearing from the side of the grinder. With a bearing, your bucket will last much longer. I sharpened the screws from a titanium valve pusher rod from the MT-11 Dnepr motorcycle. For me and my friends, buckets have been working with bearings for 4 years. I lubricate the bearing once a year. I glued the dough mixer to the shaft with epoxy glue, so that it would not dangle and break the slots, and I shake the finished bread out of the bucket in a hot state. If the glued dough mixer needs to be removed from the shaft when replacing the oil seal, then it must be well warmed up together with the shaft on an electric epoxy oven, while softening. Well, actually, to glue or not to glue is at your discretion, I just don't like it when something dangles in the mechanisms. If it rips off the slot on the mixer, you can try to fix it with a screw by drilling and tapping an M4 or M5 thread in it from the side.

[Ignat]

Ignat Everything would be fine, only epoxy is carcinogenic. Yes, and the blade dangles as conceived, at least for Panasonic it is even protected by a patent (the blade has a profile in the hole and forms a lock in the place with the counter pin when turning)

At the expense of epoxy, you are probably right, I somehow did not think about it, and therefore I do not insist on gluing the dough mixer blade. It's just that in my second year of operation the slot was eaten by a shaft, there was no new one on sale, and the first thing that came to mind was to glue it with epoxy glue, and replace the broken sleeve with a roller bearing. It is unlikely that the Kenwood dough mixer design is protected by a patent, since the life of the bucket is hardly enough for a year, due to the poor sliding bearing, which cannot be lubricated, and the dangling paddle, which, first, scratches the Teflon coating of the bucket, and then is simply bypassed due to large backlashes.For me personally, the biggest danger is store-bought bread made of all sorts of baking powder and additives, from which it bakes in the stomach, and homemade bread is a sweet thing, no complaints.

The described repair methods are interesting but require significant experience and technical training. I propose a simple temporary way to restore the impeller rotation unit. We disassemble the assembly by drilling rivets. With extreme caution, so as not to damage the gasket, we separate the bucket and the assembly with the shaft. The shaft bore is usually tapering. Having picked up a drill of the closest size, he drills the hole to get a clean cylinder. After that, we wrap a strip of any metal 0.3-0.5 on the shaft, even though bronze brass is better from a tin can, until the shaft tightly enters the hole with effort. The strip is slightly larger than the height of the hole and, after installation at the top, is flared to the sides so that it does not fall down. Next, we fill everything with any thick grease, insert the shaft with a retaining ring, puts on an oil seal and a fluoroplastic washer. The shaft must be free of play and rotate with noticeable force. We lubricate the gasket with the same grease and connect the bucket to the shaft assembly on screws with cone heads. A 0.3mm copper foil strip in two layers as a bearing sleeve has been working for six months every other day. There is a slight backlash but nothing even leaks water. Another six months will be enough for sure. Available extremely low quality oil seals without spring. In general, such a repair, except for the oil seal, costs nothing and is done without leaving the kitchen in 2 hours.

Well, that did not pass me either bowl this bucket ... And when - shortly before the New Year essssno! There is no other kneader, and due to the crisis, it is not foreseen yet. The festive menu is under threat. We need to get out. Internet and calls to Volgograd did not help much. Only one firm was promised in a week ... for 900 rubles !!! And I'm 60km to them. and back no less. The price of the issue, in addition to the risk that they will not be brought at all, increased to 1200 rubles, however! I had to come up with something. To begin with, I decided to disassemble by drilling rivets to study the problem. Drilled out, opened, it's very simple. Disassembled the shaft. He took off the oil seal. Impression - they do it on purpose. Design analysis showed:
1. The sleeve is broken by the penetration of products through the stuffing box. Holds the oil seal - does not break the sleeve. For this reason, it makes no sense to install the bearing, it will jam even faster when the oil seal is worn out. My runout is still small, it will break, and this will happen without fail, since there is already a radial runout - I will put a bronze bushing. Material - valve sleeve of any Zhiguli - the inner hole is already 8mm there.
2. About disputes over the order of filling the bucket. No difference. If first the water, then it will flow through the worn gland. If at first the flour - in the worn-out oil seal, it will also safely climb, the grinding is fine. Flour is not only an abrasive, albeit not like sand, of course, but moistened with water creates, as you know, a paste.
3. For such a city…. th oil seal is not like 900 rubles, 90 is a pity.
Proceeding from this, a collective farm was born, in the village we live, however, a method of repair. So:
1. Remove the retaining ring, carrier, copper washers from the shaft.
2. Drill out the rivets and remove the flange.
3. Take out the oil seal.
4. Now the blasphemy will begin. At the upper retaining ring, bite off the antennae with pliers for unclenching without removing from the shaft. The retaining ring should turn out to be round, approximately, and the antennae stick out and will interfere with us. Do not feel sorry for this ring, it is made of unsuitable steel, but it sits deeply on the shaft, if you try to remove it, you will still break it. And if you have already broken it, you can not run in search of a new one. Take a stranded copper electrical wire, the wires should be as thin as possible. Peel off 4-5 cm., Twist with a rope and tie it around the groove under the retaining ring on the shaft. Fix by simply twisting. Then you take a soldering iron, 40 watts or more, and serve well by warming up. Bite off the twist with pliers. That's it, the stubborn side is ready.
5. Measure the resulting stopper, ring or tinned wire to the largest diameter. It will be within 11-12mm.Now you need a 2X12X18mm steel washer. (I will not vouch for the outer diameter, measure, check, I could have forgotten. The washer should freely enter the flange). We check - we insert the shaft into the flange, put the washer on the shaft from the side of the oil seal and twist it. The retaining ring or homemade side should not touch the washer, the shaft should rotate freely.
6. We go (drive, swim, fly) to the plumbing store. We take the shaft with us. We select a silicone gasket 2X8X18mm., It should rotate on the shaft with little effort. These are placed in the flexible wiring of mixers and on the shower hoses, there are a lot of them, you can easily find them.
7. We collect. Need a lubricant. We do it. We take a piece of bacon, a piece of paper and smear it in the middle with lard, you can use lard, a circumference of 10 centimeters. We take a smaller sandpaper or a file, a soft pencil and grind the fingerprint onto a greasy area. Stir with a knife. You should get a very thick graphite grease. Don't need it ready !!! The content of graphite and the base is a poor solid oil, which quickly cokes at temperatures making it unusable. The fat cokes for a very long time, it does not polymerize from temperature, but liquefies. A high content of graphite, even after thickening and grease production, is an excellent lubricant itself. Does not burn or stink. Lard, by the way, too, the temperature is low. I tested it, ran it with an empty bucket in baking mode two days after assembly. Next, we lubricate the shaft, insert it into the flange, put bronze washers, a carrier and a retaining ring. We cover the steel and silicone washers around the periphery of the circle with auto-sealant, install and screw the flange to the bucket with bolts, put washers under the nuts, the flange around the holes where the washers are, we smear with sealant. We twist. We leave the bucket for two days to polymerize the sealant.
8. We test. Pour water, turn the shaft by hand, look. We put the bucket in the oven for "baking", it is possible with water, we drive for about thirty minutes, so that the first loaf is not spoiled.
9. Pour, see "bread maker / home cellar / alcohol", have a snack, see "bread maker / recipes / cold dishes and snacks" and that's it - NIRVANA !!!

P.S. The oven has worked very little, about five loaves of bread and the same 4-5 mixes, it would be too early to write, but:
This is a penny way - a washer, a gasket, a sealant, bolts - for all 70 rubles, a sealant of 40 rubles, a small tube, the rest is a penny, I generally had it all. He will help someone, like me, to restore the stove before the New Year, when it is especially needed. For someone in our difficult times, it will simply help to return the device to service without large costs. Moreover, there is a chance, there is really nothing to break there, and you can buy a lot of silicone gaskets at once

I'm sorry I didn't take a photo, didn't think

Today they called from the company, the oil seal was brought ... 970 !!!

It’s interesting about bacon. For statistics, the repair with the brass tape reeling on the shaft was a year ago and there is still no backlash with daily use. The lubricant must be extremely thick and viscous. I saw this green and pink.

Grease needs extremely thick and viscous

Quite right. In my version, lard as an astringent is only needed to apply a large amount of graphite dust to the right place. Does not coke and does not stink, completely edible. After VDeshka, I am surprised that the bread does not smell. You can also use silicone grease for lubricating molds for cooking rubber products. But now I don't have

Install NK series needle bearings ... and you will forget about this problem. For the seventh year now, everything works for me with daily baking without problems. There is no backlash at all and the oil seal is not produced. Lubricated with Teflon last time two years ago. By the way, the engine drive also had to be converted to needle bearings - there is the same problem - the bushing and shaft are eating out. I had to sharpen a new shaft under the bearing NK121818. It has been working for two years without any problems. There is no backlash at all. In general, with the help of needle bearings, I managed to achieve durable reliable operation of the bread machine.

Of course, needles are the most obvious and durable method for this shaft length. But also the most technically difficult one. We need to make from what is in every home.It is good that we were reminded of the engine. Describe the disassembly step by step, how you got to the engine. While you need to look at the condition, clean it, lubricate, put some kind of oil seals to protect the lubrication, and it will be seen longer.

Sorry, I missed a personal question ... 1. Actually oil seal 22x10x8
2.3 pcs. bolts "five" with countersunk head + 3 washers + 3 grovers + 3 nuts
3. Sealant or old silicone mold from which you can cut a circle
4. High-temperature grease (or ordinary thick machine grease) The lowest retaining ring does not carry a heavy load. There you can wind a piece of thin steel wire and that's it. If only the butterfly would hold on. Heads inside the bucket.

The question is this, but the oil seal from Hitachi 10x20x7 rf / mbt / hleb / salnik_vedra_hlebopechki / 21.46.84.01_salnik_dlya_hlebopechki_hitachi will probably work?

[vladimir50]

vladimir50, Maybe it will work, and it is unlikely that you will buy it, there has been nothing on Hitachi for a long time. Need a 10 * 20 oil seal. The closest size is only from Hitachi, try to order, maybe you're lucky

[vladimir50]

vladimir50, Maybe it will work, and it is unlikely that you will buy it, there has been nothing on Hitachi for a long time. Need a 10 * 20 oil seal. The closest size is only from Hitachi, try to order, maybe you're lucky

There is a groove on the shaft in the middle, most likely there was a stopper there? When pulling out the shaft, there was nothing except for any slag, most likely crumbled? Probably I'd better buy a bucket and use it only for kneading dough, I won't bake bread anymore. I looked in the spare parts for the LG bread machine there is a shaft assembled with a bearing and an oil seal of the Russian Federation / mbt / hleb / 21.19.02.01_shtok_s_podshipnikom_i_salnikom_lg - that's why not do this here !? But it looks like all these bread makers are not designed for daily baked goods!

[vladimir50]

vladimir50, there was a stopper, it is better to buy another HP Panasonic, everything is definitely different there.

But it looks like all these bread makers are not designed for daily baked goods!

The problem is in the gland design, the normal version is patented.

[vladimir50]

vladimir50, there was a stopper, it is better to buy another HP Panasonic, everything is definitely different there. The problem is in the gland design, the normal version is patented.

Definitely a problem in the design of the shaft and oil seal !!! It reminds me of a washing machine from the times of the USSR, there was no bearing and the sleeve was constantly breaking. Once I looked at the response of one person in the reviews, he wrote that Kenwood is a bad bread maker, unlike Panasonic! Is the oil seal protected by a Panasonic? And is there a bearing on the shaft like LG? Before Kenwood there was Moulinex, so she worked for a week and quickly passed it!

My stock fell out, the BM 366 bread maker.
Thank you for reading the forum.
I want bearings, but I can't make it myself.

I drilled a hole in the stem with a 2mm drill so that it was directly above the oil seal when the stem was inserted.
For a long time I wondered what to insert food into the hole so that it would not be covered by the temperature.
Then, eureka is a match!
So, I inserted the stem, put a washer made of polypropylene on it (a gasket from a large vial with miramistin got under the arm), stick a match into the hole (it fixes the stem and presses the gland with the washer to the stem for tightness) and break it off from both sides, put on the mixer.
I didn’t expect at all that it wouldn’t leak - it was a surprise.
Cupcake testing was successful.
Let's see how long will live like this.

And who will advise what kind of bread maker for the future so that without such problems?

Yes, and the stirrer on the rod is dangling after two years of use. So I stuck a match into the broken hole, too, with a clipped match!

And who will advise what kind of bread maker for the future so that without such problems?

Panasonic 5 years bucket will last at least.

Quote: koman on Dec 15. 2014, 16:53
The lubricant needs to be extremely thick and viscous

Quite right. In my version, lard as an astringent is needed only to apply a large amount of graphite dust to the right place. Does not coke or stink, completely edible. After VDeshka, I am surprised that the bread does not smell.You can also use silicone grease for lubricating molds for cooking rubber products. But now I don't have

Why reinvent the wheel, there is also a special food grade grease for the oil seals of bread machines.
🔗
There is a special tolerance class H1 for food grade greases.
It is extremely unacceptable to use lubricants without this class of tolerance in mechanisms interacting with food.