Help with choosing a knife sharpener

Dear forum users, I ask for your advice! : flowers: Having a mechanical knife sharpener for a very long time, I caught fire to buy an electric one, like this

Maybe someone has one, how is it useful in the kitchen or not? Or do not spend money and buy a regular one?

Please share your experience in this matter. THANK YOU!

[Chef's Choice]

Maybe someone has one, how is it useful in the kitchen or not? Or do not spend money and buy a regular one?

If a power station is cheap, for example 40 bucks, then I don't recommend this one, although no, you can buy cheap knives - I don't mind them.
Expensive knives can be spoiled with such a machine - break the corner of the sharpening, or crumble the edge, because there you will not understand what the stones are and what angle they are holding.

I myself have long dreamed and sharpen my teeth on Chef's Choice , but our prices start from $ 200-250 only for junior 2-stage models and go up to $ 800-900 for 3-stage models - sharpen EVERYTHING - any angle, sharpen serrators, Asian knives, and ceramics!

I know for sure on our forum - Chef's Choice bought by Luda - Lisss's on the Amazon, she took a chance - she got an excellent grinding station for only 100 bucks.
You can punch her in a personal - ask how the sharpener is doing
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&action=profile;u=12576
https://www.youtube.com/w...er_embedded&v=d8HtsGy4tmU

[RolandS]

RolandS, thank you for your opinion. : flowers: Something like that I wanted to ask our members of the forum. Maybe someone has used this one and will express their opinion. Or there are other options, etc., etc. julifera and thank you very much for your feedback. : rose: This sharpener costs from 2300r. and higher. I looked at Chefs Choice and, from the price. : swoon: And here is what they write about this sharpener.
Electric sharpener Tim T1031D:

-The sharpener is used to sharpen ceramic and metal knives at the correct angle, due to which the knife remains sharp for a considerable time.

- Tim's electric sharpener, (Tima), uses two levels of sharpening, coarse and finishing, the so-called finishing, which makes the knife really sharp.

- Due to the use of diamond sharpening elements, the sharpener will last more than one year.

-The sharpener is simple and convenient to use, has small dimensions and does not take up much space.

-The instruction manual is attached to the sharpener.

Phew, and I want to want - well, no one forbids wanting - three-level - sharpening-finishing-polishing, with magnets, but I understand that I don't need it - the knives are averagely expensive, they last for a long time, a simple edit on Triangle from Spiderko is enough , after which you can begin to boldly check your fingers

Oh, and I have a Fiscars knife with ceramic discs. It suits me very much. Perfectly and quickly sharpens in 5-6 cuts. And you can cut tomatoes. And no electricity

Well ... I like the mechanical one, because the knife needs to be corrected at the most inopportune moment, when it is not very convenient to connect the electric knife. I would take again a mechanical one with ceramic discs. But this is of course IMHO

[tatjanka]

And you can cut tomatoes.

Well, all people are like people - they cut tomatoes, and as I sharpen - so immediately a nail, some thread, a claw

tatjanka, yes, a good thing, if anything - you can buy more severe sticks for this Spyderco Triangle - one toko but - you need to love this business, not everyone likes to mess with it (but I like it)

And what a cool model is Spyderko? With interest.
Maybe buy a second one too? :-)

With such a happy ElectroPhilips, buying a hand-held device with an angle hold, poking around with my hands, I don’t know, I don’t know ...

For kitchen workers, it is better to have a good ceramic musat - once it sharpened on the electric and used it 20 times quickly, then again on the electric one (in the sense of sharpening it once, then - worked - corrected it with musat, worked - corrected it with musat + etc. - and then only again on electric )

Ceramics will not spoil the corner of the knife, she will not have enough strength for this, but for accurate editing it is the most in races.

The people generally manage to edit on ceramic saucers from the turnover

found a pocket spiderco!
definitely buy!

Here is a cool thing, better than it

Isn't the length just malvata?

Most likely I'll be lazy :-)
But there are people who like it.
But in general, the topic is interesting (unexpectedly) I had not thought about it before. And then I read it on the net. The whole world is! Edits, mandrels, whetstones and straps!
It's awful!
ATP for a tip.

On ordinary bars, I'm not that lazy - my hands don't stand at all
And the whole world - yes, I was ill at one time, then let it go, calmed down on a little.

[Diamond edge]

Electric knife sharpeners for the Chef's Choice family.
Diamond edge forms on the knife in just 10 seconds.
Sharpen like ordinary knives, Japanese and European,
and knives with serrated sharpening (file).

You can see how knives are cut after such sharpening here --- >>

https://www.youtube.com/w...er_embedded&v=QspBUBM9XPQ

From 3900 rubles for CH / 310 model for ordinary European knives.
Diamond edge the truth is from 5040 rubles,
and in most models from 8500 rubles,
but also the function of sharpening serrated (filed) knives
will already be included for this money.

Here is the model with diamond edge Chef'sChoice 312 for 5040 rubles

Chef'sChoice 312 works on diamond stones for ultra-fine edge sharpening of knives.
Diamond-coated tapered discs create the first sharpening angle in the first step,
and ultra-fine second-stage abrasives polish the knife blade flawlessly.
Various combinations of sharpening steps allow you to create either a perfectly sharp edge for fine cuts or micro-notches on the cutting edge for difficult products.
The sharpener is suitable for simple knives and knives with serrated (file) sharpening.
Sharpens kitchen, travel, folding knives.
Patented movable guides position the knife at the desired sharpening angle.
Made in the USA.

If money is not enough,
then here is the combined model with diamond edge Chef'sChoice 220 for 3300 rubles.

combining the advantages of electric and mechanical sharpening.
The sharpening of the knife takes place at the first electrical stage, followed by polishing at the mechanical stage.
At the first stage, the knife blade is subjected to intense action of conical discs, which have a 100% diamond coating,
at the second stage, thanks to the fine-grained discs, the blade is refined, straightened and polished.
This multi-stage sharpening allows you to achieve high results and keep the sharpness of the knife for a long time.
It will equally perfectly cope with sharpening an ordinary and serrated (file) knife, kitchen or tourist.
Both stages of knife sharpening are accompanied by automatic control of the correct sharpening angle.
Made in the USA.

Chef'sChoice 110 model for 5450 rubles.


There is also a movie for curiosity


Chef's Choice 2100 is designed for use in professional kitchens,
at catering establishments, restaurants, etc.,
requiring sharpening of cutlery on an industrial scale.
But the price is already 21,200 rubles.

more

Electric knife sharpeners of the Chef's Choice family.

So we already talked about them on the previous page - 300 bucks and the model from the photo is yours!
And the second model numbered 2100 from the video will be yours for only 800-900 bucks ...

[300 bucks and the model from the photo is yours]

So we already talked about them on the previous page - 300 bucks and the model from the photo is yours!
And the second model numbered 2100 from the video will be yours for only 800-900 bucks ...

It's indecent to weld so much
the retail price of the Chef'sChoice 110 model is available for less than $ 200 (5450 rubles).

I only keep my hand on the pulse of new products in the erotic business!

For men it is much closer, I understand you. : spiteful: Do you have a corresponding Temka?

Well, since all your ideas are traumatic, then it's not necessary. Let's go the old fashioned way.
Now I am sitting and racking my head, which sharpener to buy?

Well, since all your ideas are traumatic, then it's not necessary. Let's go the old fashioned way.
Now I am sitting and racking my head, which sharpener to buy?

It all depends on the money, if the most convenient and versatile model for all occasions, then this is Chef's Choice1520,
sharpens Japanese 15 degrees and conventional 20 degrees knives.
Price in Moscow - 9870 rubles.
Or any three-step 1xx series for European knives.
Price from 8500 to 10000 rubles or the ancient 3-speed Chef'sChoice 110 for 5450 rubles.
3xx series is good, cheaper, but requires a little more skill.
If you have any more questions, please call the Chef'sChoice Russia hotline,
phone Tel: (499) 493-01-10 8-901-519-22-34

[RolandS]

I have already had the 320th model for several years, very pleased!
RolandS, a question for frying pans - if they burned correctly, then with tung oil? and where did you get it in St. Petersburg? I can not find..

[non-toxic]

Tung oil (kukui oil), wood oil is a fatty vegetable oil obtained from the seeds (nuts) of the tung tree, containing up to 70% of tung oil (based on the dry weight of the nut kernel).
Inactive yellowish liquid with a specific (but not unpleasant) odor, slowly drying in air.
Tung oil without special additives that accelerate its drying, non-toxic.
It is widely used mainly for the manufacture of paints and varnishes. Also used for calcining cast iron cookware (creating a protective coating).

The use of linseed oil in this case is justified, since it is also well used for the manufacture of paints and varnishes and for obtaining a protective film.
Tung oil is an oil that is obtained from the fruits of the trees Aleurites Cordata, Aleurites Fordii, Aleurites Montana, etc. Various species of this tree grow in China and Japan. Tung tree nuts usually contain 42-48% oil. Tung oil (wood oil), especially fresh, very poisonous... Tung oil is characterized by the presence in it of unsaturated acids with conjugated double bonds, as well as the ability, after polymerization, to dry quickly to form a very hard, infusible and insoluble film in organic solvents, with increased, compared to other oils, resistance to water and weak alkalis.

Tung oil mainly consists of glycerides of eleostearic acid, the content of which in the oil ranges from 75-86%. In addition, the composition of tung oil includes: palmitic acid 3.7-4.1%, stearic acid 1.2-1.3%, oleic acid 10-15% and linoleic acid about 10%, hydroxy acids may also be present in the amount of 1, 5%.
A characteristic feature of tung oil is the ability to dry immediately over the entire mass, and not just from the surface. Tung oil dries up within 40-96 hours. The film resulting from drying of tung oil is hard, dry, elastic, with an ice pattern (due to isomerization in the light), insoluble in common solvents. Polymerization of tung oil eliminates unwanted ice pattern formation. When heated, tung oil easily gelates.
Linseed oil made from tung oil and flaxseed oils in a 1: 1 ratio dries within 9-10 hours. The film of tung oil quickly becomes brittle in the open air. In the production of varnishes and in the modification of alkyd resins, mixtures of tung oil with linseed oil, as well as with semi-drying oils, are used.

What is true - poison or not?

Bought Apex Edge Pro ultimate, 3000 abrasive, agate and leather from these literate guys in Moscow 🔗 Now, as a samurai, I sit in the evenings and bring knives and axes to perfection. Ehh) cool thing

I have been using the two-level SITITEK Mistress 40M for almost a year now. Quite a decent model for the money. She can also sharpen scissors with screwdrivers. Very comfortably.

Can anyone say such a sharpener or junk standing?

Electric knife, tool and scissor sharpener Swifty Sharp 10737

[Knife sharpener "Borner"]

And I was interested in such a sharpener !!!

Knife sharpener "Borner"

A question for the owners of such a thing, is it worth buying?

And I was interested in such a sharpener !!!

Knife sharpener "Borner"

If you don’t like your knives or don’t feel sorry for them at all, then buy one. This sharpener simply CUTTERS metal shavings. If you have good knives (not necessarily expensive), then you ruin them. Therefore, you must first decide on the knives.

And me like this

Chefs Choice Mechanical knife sharpener, two-level
CC476





anyone uses it?

I have Chefs Choice - lyactric. Really like !

[Rita]

Rita,

And I have only enough musata so far. The knives are excellent, they are already 8 years old. My husband once only sharpened on some "blocks" of varying degrees of grain, and then only 3 knives out of 10, and I occasionally rule with musat.

[believe]

At some point, I decided to put things in order in my knife industry, which posed two questions for myself: which knives to buy / use and how to maintain them in the condition I needed. These questions are undoubtedly interrelated, and I personally chose knives made of hard steel ("Japanese"), which do not require the use of musat (unlike European ones), and their home sharpening.

The first thing that I realized while studying specialized resources: to "understand" sharpening and get a predictable result, you need objective ways to control the result. Therefore, the first thing that was bought: a magnifying glass and a handheld microscope, both illuminated:

• Microscope Sugitoh TS-HM-60 Handy micrometer 60x;
• Magnifier Niigata Seiki LSL-35 Light scale Lupe LSL-35, 10x.

The magnifier has an unadjustable side illumination, a relatively low magnification factor, which allows you to quickly analyze large surfaces. The handheld monocular microscope has adjustable illumination from three points, each of which can be individually turned on / off, which allows you to get the desired shadow and examine the surface texture, magnification x60 and allows you to view more than 2mm of the surface at once. Bought in Japanese Rakuten.

Having the opportunity to find out what is really happening with the surface of the knife allows you to no longer believe someone's word (often in fairy tales), but know exactly how your actions are reflected on your personal knives. As an example, having once looked at what to do with a knife after a longitudinal sharpener (for example, a roller sharpener), you may never use them again.

See, for example, Longitudinal sharpener - joy to the owner, death to the knife:

Further, it was important for me to be able to maintain the angle I needed and the relative convenience of sharpening, as a result of which, I settled on a homemade sharpener Efim-2. Together with lumps for sharpening and some additional accessories, I got the following set:

The sharpener allows you to fix the knife, set the angle, and then both drive the stone along the cutting edge and turn the knife over to process the second side, without any additional adjustments:

The mechanism for fine adjustment of the angle and the hinge that allows the stones to move along the cutting edge is made on the basis of a spare part from a microscope:

You can sharpen knives, for example, with a set of synthetic stones Boride T2 and white Arkansas:

Now, the range of possible accessories for sharpening knives has increased significantly and the choice is much wider than it was when I bought my equipment, therefore, everyone can choose a set that will meet their personal needs.

I wish you all ergonomic and sharp knives that will delight you for many decades.

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, wow you have an approach !!!

and what should we do? not having this approach to sharpening knives?
not sharpen at all? contact specialists?

I chose knives made of hard steel ("Japanese"), which do not require the use of musata (unlike European ones), and their home sharpening.

Can you tell me how long after sharpening the knives retain the sharpness you need, that is, since you do not use musat, after what time do you need to sharpen again?

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, wow you have an approach !!!
and what should we do? not having this approach to sharpening knives?

There are also many options here, but, unfortunately, I cannot answer you briefly.

Firstly, there is always an option to do nothing at all if you are satisfied with the current state of affairs... Moreover, I personally think that this is often the best scenario for behavior.

For me personally, knives are instrument and from experience I know that for the tool, so that it pleases and does not let you down, you need to follow: do with its help only what it is intended for, do certain prevention / replacement, monitor the general condition. Basically, there is no difference: it is knives, chisels, files, circular saw or food processor.

Coming back to the knives: I once bought a Japanese knife to see what was there, worked it myself, let my wife work. And we have this sharp / new (although it happens, even quite serious knives have a rather miserable native sharpening, since usually buyers of such knives still sharpen them for themselves and their tasks, and the manufacturers know this) the knife definitely liked for some applications ...

And then a dilemma arises: what to do with all this? For example, if I took a good knife and continued using it the way I used my other knives, it would quickly turn into exactly the same ones. In fact, in this case one could say "down the drain". As a result, there were rules: do not cut with good knives on glass (plates) or other hard surfaces (like bamboo), do not throw them in the sink, do not put them in the dishwasher, do not prick ice / bones, wash them immediately after using them, wipe them and put in place, etc. - a bunch of restrictions... But as a result, we have really sharp / comfortable knives. And in order for them to continue to be sharp, they still need to be sharpened from time to time. My wife and I discussed this situation, and decided that nevertheless, it's worth it... But, at the same time, we still have knives that "do not mind": we wash them in the dishwasher, cut them on plates and throw them into the sink.

Whether you need it, I don't know.

I only know for sure that, as an example, if you buy a really expensive Japanese knife, even if it has a good factory sharpening and you throw it into the sink with dirty dishes, you can you get a large chip, which may not be able to "remove" (despite the fact that this did not happen with other knives). And occasional sharpening is one of the things that are needed to keep a knife sharp. At the same time, there are a bunch of knives that you don't want to keep an eye on, they won't be both sharp and comfortable. Or they can be sharpened, but the sharpening will not last long.

That is, it is important here what you want to get in the end: if you have a knife with a consumable that you do not mind, then the use cases are the same. If the knife itself is of some value, just as its condition is important to you, then your actions will be different. And everyone himself determines the range of things that are personally important to him, and to which he is indifferent.

not sharpen at all?

This is a good option in certain situations. For example, if you have ceramic knives that, due to their high hardness, are simply physically impossible to make sharp, then you can use such a knife until its entire cutting edge is crumbled, so that it is not very easy to sharpen them. Serrated knives, which, due to the fact that they have a hard surface on which you cut, only a small part of the cutting edge touches, blunt quite slowly: you can say they are more vandal-resistant than ordinary knives.

As a result, I use ceramic / serrated knives for some applications, such as cutting meat on a plate. I will never sharpen them, and when they become completely unsightly, I will simply replace them with new ones. For bones, special scissors are used, etc.

At the same time, at some point, I audited my knives: I corrected the cutting edge and geometry where necessary, sharpened them. But some knives, after a short time, again became dull, almost as they were: sharpen them, follow or not, but their steel was such that they could not be sharp for any long time. As a result, I also don't see much point in fiddling with such knives.

contact specialists?

Here, as in other areas, it is important which specialists to turn to: by and large, we spend a lot of time to find really cool specialists, be they a plumber or a doctor. And with knives everything is the same: there are people who love this business and do everything in the best possible way, and there are those who just want to get money with a minimum of effort on their part. As a result, I cannot recommend everyone to go "to specialists", since I do not know what the result may be.

Can you tell me how long after sharpening the knives retain the sharpness you need, that is, since you do not use musat, after what time do you need to sharpen again?

After sharpening all the knives, the first complaints that "this leg was sharper earlier" began to appear in about 5 months. Accordingly, it was worth sharpening them a little earlier.

But I do not think that this information can be really useful to someone, since everyone's conditions are different.

For example, we cook relatively little (and, accordingly, use knives) so that the knives "live" longer, I made a certain duplication: I have two identical petty 15cm, one santoku 18cm, and the chefs 19cm, 21cm and 27cm. Accordingly, as a rule, chefs / santoku are interchangeable with each other, just like petty with each other. This makes the "load" on each knife noticeably less.

Further, I would like to comment on musat: it is originally intended for bending / deburring: for knives with medium hardness (for example, all European knives), in the case of very strong influences, the cutting edge bends and the knife feels duller. Musat was not meant for sharpening... With all of this, most of the musats that are sold have a completely aggressive surface and very actively grind the knife material: that is, if you walk over the knife with such a musat, you can actually hold it sharpening, not just deburring. Personally, I am not very good at controlling my movements and with my musat I usually just spoiled the sharpening with its corners (in fact, not being able to control my body well was the reason for buying a sharpening device, since there the requirements for a person are significantly reduced).

On the other hand, if we consider Japanese knives, then they have a very high hardness (easily more than 60 HRC), and if the burr was removed during sharpening (and this is achieved, for example, if sharpening angles are clearly controlled and finished with a stone with a fine grain , for example, the same Arkansas), then during work we do not have a bend of the cutting edge: the cutting edge from strong influences usually crumble... And this is clearly visible through a microscope. That is, in my personal opinion, for the most part, they are used as a means of straightening the cutting edge; for knives with a high hardness of the edge, it is simply not needed. At the same time, if you use a musat with an aggressive surface (which sometimes resemble the most natural file), then it is quite possible to "remove" its sharpening from the knife.

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, thank you very much for the consultation !!! ))) everything somehow fit in my head)))