Cast iron restoration

After use, always wash with dishwashing detergent. Then I hang it on the rail: there the water flows down and the pan dries up. Since I have never seen tung oil on sale, I do not lubricate it. When I smeared it with vegetable it rancid - I did not like it.

[Kapet]

Kapet, I cannot explain to you the physics of the process, although I am sure that there is a scientific explanation for this

the result of using just such a technology was that on the surface of my cast-iron frying pan a completely non-stick coating was formed, similar to Teflon, but at the same time not only does not burn, but also safe for health

here I share my successful experience of using the technology proposed by Luda mariana_aga, on whose authority I rely without checking her words

if your technology is just as successful, that's just great - our members of the forum will have the opportunity to make their choice

Hello! Tell me, please, I still do not understand how to process aluminum cauldrons (I have kukmara) and ducklings. And maybe someone knows how the surface can be processed. I have glass ceramics. And one of the cauldrons scratches her. It's a pity to throw it away, new and needed. And cast iron pans can be used on glass ceramics, does anyone have?

Hello! Tell me, please, I still do not understand how to process aluminum cauldrons (I have kukmara) and ducklings. And maybe someone knows how the surface can be processed. I have glass ceramics. And one of the cauldrons scratches her. It's a pity to throw it away, new and needed. And cast iron pans can be used on glass ceramics, does anyone have?

IMHO, the aluminum cauldron does not need to be specially processed / restored. Since luminescence is a relatively soft metal, what scratches you can be filed at home and polished with a metal sandpaper.
You can use cast iron pans on glass ceramics without any problems, with the exception of one: someday the pan will surely meet with this glass ceramics with inspiration, and there is no need to guess who will win ...

Well, now I'm thinking again ... I wanted to change all the pans. First, on the tefal, a friend said that it was necessary to take ceramics, then - on cast iron. Now I don’t know what to choose.

[Aylen]

First, on the tefal, a friend said that it was necessary to take ceramics, then - on cast iron. Now I don't know what to choose.

Aylen , And for what purposes do you take pans? I have a cast iron for pancakes and a roaster for meat, a ceramic flat for cutlets and a wok type for potatoes, a stainless steel with a triple bottom for vegetables and pancakes. I use each one.

Super! Yes, I somehow don’t share what to cook in. I’m stiff, small inside as new (that's just how to clean it outside, I'm afraid the kirdyk will peel off ...), but the big pieces have fallen out round ..., but I really like the pancake maker. I read about ceramics - it breaks off too. Cast iron - I'm afraid to scratch the cooking ... Now I'm thinking what to buy ...

I read about ceramics - it breaks off too.

Take a quality one and nothing will come off.

+1. I have had an aluminum frying pan with a ceramic coating for almost a year - nothing breaks

[Ailen,]

Ailen,here everything is mainly about frying pans. Including ceramic. https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=3127.1120... Decide, you have to choose yourself. But there are cookware specialists there. Pay attention to “Reply # 1126 Apr 24. 2012, 12:49 ”and so on ... There will be half a page left. Unfortunately, advice Omela difficult to use. I have not yet come across dishes on which the "I am high quality" is stamped.

+1. I have ceramics for almost a year now - nothing breaks off

People, for an unambiguous understanding of your terms, please clarify, plz, - after all, real ceramics, or ceramic-coated lumin ...
Patamushta frying surfaces (braziers, pans) are both such and such ...

[Wit]

I have not yet come across dishes on which the "I am high quality" is stamped.

Wit , we are talking about proven brands. Read reviews on the internet.

[all sorts of]

Yes, of course I did. I read a lot. Reviews are different on all sorts of pans, Omela

guys, I just wrote in the dishes and decided to duplicate here - I have two pans of the same size and height, one is cast iron, properly processed, not sticking, and the second is aluminum with a ceramic coating. and noticed that alum + keram displaced cast iron cast iron is still very capricious, a little underheated - everything stuck, and it's a shame for the products. and if you are in a hurry, it happens. and aluminum + ceramic. cover never fails. as a result - on cast iron, there may be a slightly smoother ruddy, due to more uniform heating. but! on alum + ceram, the ruddy does not vary so much as to ignore the positive qualities of the anti-stick layer

in a word, the ceramic coating won the competition, the cast iron was shifted higher

in a word, the ceramic coating won the competition, the cast iron was shifted higher

Personally, I believe that for a modern woman, cast iron is a completely optional requisite of a unique method for losing weight. Here, non-stick surfaces are unrivaled, and right and wrong. For example, a hypothetical prospect does not smile at me at all, having married a blonde with legs from molars, one day waking up next to an effeminate Schwarzenegger. Therefore, I myself do cast iron in our household, and anti-sticks for my wife and daughter.
But ..., the most delicious roasts I have, all the same, come out of cast iron. Maybe this is mysticism, maybe receptor self-hypnosis, however ...

Well, a Schwarzenegger is not a Schwarzenegger, but wrists when working with cast iron should be of good strength and strength. Nevertheless, I like cast iron, although now I have returned to the good old aluminum brazier for a while.

I bring my cast iron set to the state I theoretically need. Now the question is: in the photographs I see the cast iron treated with tung, shiny, but I have all matte. What can be wrong?

Glitters are obtained if oiled generously enough. But I have two grill ("f cell") frying pans, it will not be possible to grease generously there - there will be influxes. Or am I doing something wrong in the temperature mode (I put it to dry in an already heated oven)?

I rush, I also have "obscene" covered ... I have not experienced it, just cut ..... And today I tested an old aluminum rooster in baking bread - it stuck slightly .. It is necessary to add layers, or something ... And the new rooster, so light, inside, though rough, has normally undergone processing. And the bread jumped out of it without problems ...

[Rina]

Rina, Irish, and who knows .. I shone more from the flash in the frame, maybe .. put it in a heated dryer, but of course.

still some time after treatment - two weeks - must pass until the coating "grabs", as I called it. fresh ones can stick, yes.

Well, the warm-up is correct, do you remember? - we heat the empty one, drip literally - no more than 1/3 tsp. - oil and rub with a napkin throughout the pan. then pour in the portion on which we will fry, heat it up, and then add the product. any shift in the circuit will lead to sticking

and I will do so. Only, I now have the last two cast iron pots in processing - two large ones with a grill bottom. Two pancakes and a small grill, I can say, I have already processed. They have been resting for a week already. But the big ones are still red. One is now warming up, but I'm afraid I've put a lot of tung on it ... in general, we'll wait and see.

By the way, even in tung "shirts" there are aluminum forms - two rectangular and one of the "daisy" type. Such redheads turned out. And the mesh for baguettes (from the Dniproindustry, which I acquired from Lyulek) acquired such a blaaarod color that my husband said, "Well, you already tinted it under the antique bronze." Eh, if the heat had not yet come, the oven can be turned on normally only at night ...

oo, and I calcined in October, as it got colder, and there was no heating yet. it turned out so well

I have tung oil since autumn. But we managed to clean the pans only during a trip to the dacha just about this spring ... The project also includes the purchase of a cauldron or at least a wok ...

I've read a little here and I have a question: what kind of stoves do you have, gas? I recently became the owner (bought on March 8) with a ceramic-coated stove and I think salt cannot be calcined on it

I have a gas stove without a counter. Therefore, I can afford to drive the oven for hours (it wasn't hot anyway).

First results:
one pancake pan still burst. I will use it for baking.
the little griddle pan is a song! Even scrambled eggs don't stick on it! Cheesecakes are excellent fried.

Now it's colder, you can drive the oven again.
In general, I bring large pans.

Hello everyone! Dear bakers, I have a question: if my cast-iron pancake maker is leaking (in the sense, oil seeps through during frying), then this means .... everything? Can't you save already?

If there is an experienced welder, then a hole in the cast iron can be welded,
pre-strip it. But you need to cook so that a large
part of the seam remained outside, so it is easier to clean the inner surface
pancakes without spoiling it. And think about buying a new pancake maker ...

I am also for replacing the pancake maker. Look for a welder. Pay for work with unknown outcome?

Thanks for answers! Naturally, I already bought a new pancake maker, just after reading the topic I thought: what if ...
I will not look for a welder, do not persuade

Hello everyone! Yesterday I received a long-awaited chicken-tobacco pan with a lid. Cast iron. Heavy ..... I roasted it in the oven for an hour, smeared with sunflower oil. Smoke was standing !!!!!! horror!! now I have to take off the curtains and wash, because even in the morning there was a smell in the kitchen .... then when it got cold I wiped it with a dry rag, black straight traces remained ... I don’t know if I did everything right? Then I tried to fry the chicken. Well, even for the first time not so much, everything burns and the smoke again .. in general a nightmare. Well .... I don't know, it seemed to me that I was even slightly bitter. In general, I did not get the expected result. Today I will try a second time ... maybe I'll try to make a smaller fire ..
Maybe someone knows what I did wrong? and how to fry chicken in this pan? its bottom is ribbed - like a grill ... and a heavy lid with a handle ...

[Muscovite]

Muscovite,
Apparently, a lot of oil was poured when igniting and overheated the pan. The point in processing is not that the oil burns out, but that it penetrates the pores of the cast iron, polymerizes and dries.

1.wash the pan until it is clean (pure foam), dry it in the oven or heat it over a fire.
2. we buy tung or at least pure flaxseed (!) Oil and do at least two or three drying treatments. Apply the oil with a rag so that the pan only gets some oil, but the oil does not flow!

PS I had a situation when I bought the first two cast iron pans. Then there was no talk about tung oil, we took the pans to the country house and there they ignited them on the grill. They began to treat with oil. Well, my husband, on the principle of "a lot - not a little" Poured oil into a frying pan, drained the "surplus" and put it on hot coals. How long do you think it took for the burnt black oil to peel off? And my husband later said to me, "Why didn't you EXPLAIN to me that you need to apply a thin layer ?!" (this despite the fact that they shouted to him that there is a lot of oil in the pans, just, you see, no one said that the butter would then be peeled!)

well yes . my husband later also said, it was necessary on the grill ..... at the dacha ... well, now what ... although I'm going to go on the weekend, maybe I'll take it with me and try to ignite it one more time.

just keep in mind - lubricate with a thin layer!

[Pakat]

well yes . my husband told me later, too, it was necessary on the grill ... at the dacha ...Well, now what ... although I'm going to go on the weekend, maybe I'll take it with me and try to ignite it one more time.

In this thread here and here respected Pakat described this action in detail.

On my own behalf, I will say that when processing new cast iron, I do not mess with the oven - indeed, well, there is a lot of stench and smoke. I make it easier - the same thing, but on a stove with a hood. After thorough rinsing and drying on a switched-on burner, I grease it with tung oil in the thinnest layer, from a cloth, and heat it over low heat until it dries up beforehand, until the smoke leaves (it may still stick). Then I give this cast iron a day or two to rest, and repeat this procedure, if so 5-10, until a smooth, stable "combat" layer is obtained on the frying surface. After such manipulations, provided there is sufficient preheating of a frying pan or brazier for cast iron (and this is 5-10 minutes), the products slide on its surface no worse than on Teflon ...
Right now this month, I'm doing this shit with a new 32cm Seaton brazier. ...

Yes, I have a case here is something else in this frying pan, RIBBED! that is, it is basically a Grill! that's why I won't miss it with much oil! and I don’t have such oil ...

Muscovite, with a small painting brush made of natural bristles (I am currently working on a completely new one with a small-celled "grill" bottom). Or a small cotton cloth that does not leave lint.

And, if tung oil is not available, buy natural flaxseed oil. It is food grade, but there is also a technical one, it is also quite suitable. I do not know about you, but you can buy it from us on the "construction" market (everything for repair).

Muscovite, with a small painting brush made of natural bristles (I am currently working on a completely new one with a small-celled "grill" bottom). Or a small cotton cloth that does not leave lint.

No top brush can get rid of oil sagging. Only with a cotton cloth, without synthetics, and not necessarily small, but folded compactly. Oil from the container is applied only to a cloth, without fanaticism. And she already - on cast iron ...

advice is needed. I looked after a cast-iron frying pan, but it is made in china with an oil thermal coating. Should I buy or not? And who knows what kind of coverage

need advice. I looked after a cast-iron frying pan, but it is made in China with an oil thermal coating. Should I buy or not? And who knows what kind of coverage

Now everything is done in China. My crystal ball is now under restoration, so let us know what the model is and who the manufacturer is. Otherwise, you will not see luck ...

Kapet, brand: Collado, organization: Hebei Shengzhi, I dug up ozone on the site, it's not clear what kind of coverage is this?

this is a type of impregnation, it burns less with it

I have an utyatnitsa, as in the photo somewhere at the beginning of Temko ... She got me from my mother-in-law to "move out", with the "section" of kitchen utensils ... Everything was prepared in it perfectly ... But during the repair this utyatnitsa was used not on purpose. I don't remember what was poured into it ... maybe glue for wallpaper, maybe something else liquid for repair ... But definitely not oil paint !!! My relatives have such a peculiarity, use dishes for other purposes ... They can wash the window from a saucepan, etc. ... Well, God be with him, because this is probably their only drawback, and relatives are beloved ! And now this roaster has been in my basement for 10 years ... And I can't throw it away and my hand won't go up to cook in it ... What can be done? To ignite too? I'm afraid ... I had the experience of roasting a frying pan - melted on fig completely, to the holes and threw it out ... Scrape it off with sandpaper? A violent fantasy paints a picture of how an unknown solution has soaked through the whole rooster and superficial cleaning is useless ... Please advise something ...

[uralochka]

uralochka, if there is some kind of soot and fat, find a large boil, dilute soda ash in water and boil the goose pan for an hour or two.In principle, all the nasty things can dissolve, and then rinse and boil in acid (I boiled it in citric acid so as not to stink the apartment with vinegar) and further in the text ...

Good day everyone! I would like to ask how is things going with your cast iron cookware treated with tung oil over time? Can someone answer me, whose invention is it in general to process cast iron with tung oil? In the internet there are a couple of topics of one person who, as I read, found this method myself. Also in her topics there are questions from users who failed with this method, by the way, and they did not receive answers from this person. In addition, nowhere is there any scientific confirmation of the continuity and effectiveness of this method. Or I am wrong, if so prove and show otherwise. I myself bought yesterday the purest tung oil and have a bunch of cast iron dishes, but until I get passable answers in favor of such treatment, I'd rather use this oil to cover bamboo cutting boards, which, by the way, are directly intended for processing with this oil. By the way, this person claims that tung oil is food grade. But infa then about this, where?

Although here's proof that tung oil is not edible

Application

Tung seeds are a valuable industrial oil that air-dry quickly. Due to this property, it is widely used for the production of varnishes and paints. Tung oil is also soluble in most organic solvents. It is relatively toxic and has an unpleasant odor, therefore it is not used for food purposes.

Treat well with refined grape seed oil. It has a smoking temperature higher than olive.
And frying on it is also good; I coat it with it and for grilling food

Lisss's is great! Gave an excellent answer on page 2.
I wouldn't use tung oil. As well as any non-food. BUT, factories use it.
Regular olive, sunflower or rapeseed - I don't recommend it. It does not harden strongly enough, it can not be scratched with a hand. Even after a few weeks and having multiple layers. Yes, I know that you need to apply the absolute minimum, that's not the point. The polymer based on these oils is very soft.
For those who have ceramics - cast iron utensils can be used without any problems! Just take a multimaster or any other polisher, an 80 or 120 grit sandpaper and go. Metal sharpens perfectly and becomes even and smooth. Then proceed as already indicated by Lisss's - wash with soap, heat and apply at least 1 protective layer. Scratches nothing. The frying pan heats up beautifully and very quickly on an induction hob.

But one thing! Cast iron has the ability to bake fat. For ceramics, this is absolutely not scary, you need to buy a special polishing milk that only contains acid. Ceramics are perfectly cleaned; there is only one enemy of ceramics - sugar.

guys, I just wrote in the dishes and decided to duplicate here - I have two pans of the same size and height, one is cast iron, properly processed, not sticking, and the second is aluminum with a ceramic coating. and noticed that alum + keram displaced cast iron cast iron is still very capricious, a little underheated - everything stuck, and it's a shame for the products. and if you are in a hurry, it happens. and aluminum + ceramic. cover never fails. as a result - on cast iron, there may be a slightly smoother ruddy, due to more uniform heating. but! on alum + ceram, the ruddy does not vary so much as to ignore the positive qualities of the anti-stick layer

in a word, the ceramic coating won the competition, the cast iron was shifted higher

Go back to cast iron. Let me explain why.

There is nothing better than a non-killing cookware that uses the grease released during frying for a repellent finish.
Pottery is nonsense. All ceramic pans lose their repulsion effect, depending on the contact time with the fat and the temperature.The fact is that fat quickly enough penetrates into the pores of the ceramics and destroys the same non-stick effect.
All ceramic pans are sold at a high price, so that in case of a warranty return, you can give another copy - and then, if you try to return and declare that the replacement is no longer covered by the warranty. That is, this is a divorce - a frying pan is sold for the price of two, given this moment. It is inevitable that ceramics will begin to stick.

Malysheva spoke very well about Teflon and dying birds in her Health, there was a separate issue with a reaction from DuPont.
Cast iron is still the most beautiful and ingenious material.

I did not use tung oil to process the dishes, after all, it is not food grade, it embarrassed me, I did not delve into the nuances. I treated it with linseed oil, which I bought at the grocery store. I missed a lot and missed three layers of everything. It was smooth and slippery in the pans)), but after a while it all disappeared somewhere. I didn't bother anymore and use cast iron as usual.
Sometimes the dishes start to stick, this usually happens if the food stands longer in the pan (well, I'll run away with the dog and forget about the food ... it happens :)). Then I light a frying pan with fat. But not with vegetable oil, but with animal fat (lard, fat tail, etc.). After such treatment, there is no temporary stickiness, as if calcined with vegetable oil. I remember a long time ago such a recommendation was in the instructions for the German cast-iron frying pan. I like this calcination better.

[Bayka]

Bayka, Lenchik, but it is possible in more detail - how long and how many times you ignite with fat and whether it stinks strongly of smoke in the apartment

[Scarlett]

Scarlett, Tanya, there is no smoke at all ... it smells like chebureks)) If it is on the stove, it can smoke, since you cannot control the heating, and in the oven there are no problems at all. I put it at 190-200 degrees, ignite for an hour and a half and the frying pan cools down in the oven. Then I take it out and wipe the inner surface with an oil napkin and that's it.
I also do this - melt lard or fat tail in a frying pan, pour it into a jar and it’s in my refrigerator. When you need to "grease" so as not to mess with the oven, if it suddenly starts to stick, then I put the pan on gas, put a little fat out of the jar, the fat is melted and I rub it with a sponge (there is a tidy one), rub it over the pan, then I take a paper towel and remove excess fat (without fanaticism). I turn down the heat to a minimum and let the frying pan stand like this until the first plow. As soon as the smell appeared, I immediately turn it off and, after cooling down, I wipe it with a cloth with vegetable oil. Excess oil should always be wiped off with a napkin, then carbon deposits will not form.
The pan should not look oily shiny, but have very little sheen.
I wash them and, of course, without chemicals. And if you really want to wash it strongly, then with liquid natural soap. Then, I dry it on gas and grease it with hot oil or fat. And be sure to remove excess oil.
I wrote a lot of words, but in fact it's not all problematic and fast.

[Bayka]

Bayka, I will definitely try. Moreover, we have no problems with fat in Ukraine. I try to fry almost everything with fat, and not with sunflower, because a huge selection of sunflower in stores causes unhealthy interest: WHERE?

Good afternoon, I have such a problem. I bought a Biol frying pan and decided to treat it with tung oil. I applied about 7 layers and now I decided to apply the last one and already start using it. I take it out of the gas oven and go nuts, on an area the size of a matchbox, the coating peeled off to the very cast iron and sprinkled. I'm shocked. How could this have happened? Is this due to overheating? I applied the layers with a cloth, that is, very thin.

[Proxomotron]

Proxomotron, such oils should be applied to bare (gray) cast iron and let the first layer set and dry well. At the factory, frying pans are processed "not at home", but for temporary protection and presentation.That factory coat looks more like a spray rather than an oil impregnation. And it turned out that the polymer film made of tung oil simply "did not grab" with the pores and roughness of the cast iron.
I once got confused with linseed oil and at the exit I also got peeling (not right away). As a result, I used a little and tore it off with a metal sponge. Now I ignite only animal fat.