Panasonic Bread Makers Problems and Breakdowns

I also noticed that it does not knock during deboning. And, it seems, in general, it knocks at times not evenly in volume. How to explain ... well, imagine the dial. Suppose it is not the hands that move in the dial, but the stirrer. Somewhere in the 45 minutes / second range is strong, while the other 15 are weaker. That is, during one revolution of the mixer, the knocking volume changes, but not much.

[Qween]

Qween Actually, there is nothing terrible, the defect is "floating". I would of course open it, see what's what. But you probably still have a guarantee ...

[sazalexter]

By the way, I forgot to write that Panas used to be completely silent, and then he began to make a rather noisy batch, well, and then the knock increased.

My stove is over a year old. I don't even know if I can drag her to a paid service or let her knock on it, I will close the doors so as not to wake up ...

sazalexter, dear, help me make a decision. And then I do not understand the inner life of Panasonic.

[Qween]

Qween better of course in service

Eeeeeh, I'll have to drag it ... Of course it's troublesome, but if you need it, you need it ...

[Qween]

Qween
This is a great reason to buy a new x / stove. Moreover, now such a beautiful Panasonechka is on sale. Stainless steel is a hostess's dream!

[Margit]

Margit, you will not believe it! I usually, in situations like this, also think that this is a reason for a new purchase. But, here I’m just at a loss, my Panas is so new, I didn’t even believe that I had him in September last year. And he pleases me so much with baking, I was pleasantly surprised so many times when I baked in it for the first time according to the usual recipe, tested in Kenwood! Nooo, while this situation is not a reason to get rid of him.
Tomorrow or the day after tomorrow I will rush to the service center and consult about the timing and everything else. Or maybe they, like my Kenwood blender, will bring Panasik back into action in five seconds with a slight movement of the hand. I dream so.

Maybe you're right and the breakdown is nonsense. Good luck to you, Anya!
And I would change, so I want a new model!

[sazalexter]

I rushed to the SC, they told me to drag my beloved stove to them. Diagnostics costs UAH 30, they will announce what needs to be done. But, according to their experience, it is better to bring, so that in one wonderful batch my Panas does not stop interfering.

So it's good sazalexter , that I decided to confer, otherwise I would not go to the SC specifically.

[Qween]

Qween I have the same problem with only 256 Panasonic. It appeared quite recently, the stove worked for exactly one year. Do not tell me how your problem was solved in the end? What is the conclusion of the SC?

[egil32]

egil32, I haven't worn a stove yet. All of us are not on the way there, but there is no time to take it on purpose.

The last two times I specially listened during the batch. She didn't knock. As our specialist wrote above sazalexter:

... the defect is "floating" ...

If I understood correctly about "floating", then this means that HP can either knock or not knock ...

Well ... today I handed over the Panasonic microwave to an authorized center. She asked about the bread maker. I say "the capacitor ... we looked ... there were similar problems ..." "only" 200 UAH, that is, about $ 25, and this is without spare parts). Well, they did not come across such a thing ... in principle. True, they say that bread makers are very rare guests.

In general, the husband decided that he would do everything himself.

Marasmus!!! It turns out that it is necessary to load the already almost killed stove to such an extent that it will stop turning at all !!! Only then carry them !!! And if in the process of these exercises, the winding burns out from increased loads? Then you find yourself on a motor, which, I suppose, costs a lot, at least ten times more expensive than a cond. They are going to the oven !!! Rina, you decided right! What to feed them! They lead their nose, get smart, instead of 20 minutes. solve the problem of . There, except for a Phillips screwdriver and a soldering iron, nothing is needed for work.My stove is working fine (as it should). My wife bakes almost every day, just like before the breakdown. I'm happy. Well, me too.
.

[Rina!]

Rina! Well, first of all, a compliment on your avatar. Straight cutie!
And, secondly, on the topic, I follow your problem here and identified my own by it. Yuzayu Panas-255 since summer 2008, almost every day. The last couple of months, I began to notice the "tightness" of the dough kneading, and the last time I was kneading French in sourdough (450g flour + 200g sourdough), so even the smell was electric. I thought my stove would die! And half a portion of the pizza dough (200g of flour) kneads as much as the guy makes noise. The agitator in the bucket from the clicker rotates easily by almost 360 degrees. What do you think is a capacitor? Is it possible that the Panasiks have an epidemic?

[kolenko]

kolenko, murrsi for compliment

Since this problem is discussed in several forums, then it is quite standard. I suspect that for the majority of those who do not use this source of information, the engines on the stoves simply burn out as a result - this is the direct income of service providers. And even if they turn to the workshops that "the batch power has dropped", what will the service technicians do? That's right, they will change the same engine. Simply because it is significantly more expensive than a single capacitor.

For a stove that has been plowing for three years, this or that problem simply must arise. Comparing reviews for many other HPs, I see that problems arise there more abruptly and faster. So, it is in our power to bring our beauties back to working order and wait for the appearance of even newer models

So she, most likely, knocks depending on the position of the kolobok in the bucket. When it is already tight and completely put on the shoulder blade, it begins to beat strongly with the edges against the protrusions on the walls of the bucket (as I understand it, specially designed for this). Hence the randomness of knocking. Well, the engine rotation modes change depending on time. From such blows, the bucket knocks on the stops. I have this in the new 2501. I'm not worried about this. I don't wake up at night =)

[turn the shaft without effort every time immediately after baking]

The knocking problem is the wear of the agitator assembly. If translated into Russian, the bucket does not start to leak much.
The treatment is simple, knead with water from below and when the flour enters the gap and boils during baking, then turn the stirrer assembly immediately after baking without making any effort. If it grabs very tightly, then do not make any efforts, but slightly soak and repeat. When the gap is filled turn the shaft without effort every time immediately after baking, it will quietly crunch with crumbs and nothing more. The main thing is not to forget and everything will work for many years in this position and without knocking. Verified. We continue to bookmark products as usual, water on top.
Good luck.

This defect is not isolated. It is typical with this incl. motor. And it happens in stoves and in other appliances (far from household) with incl. motor windings through the cond. It's like a matter of time. After some time, it tends to dry out. This is facilitated by the load on the motor, and the EU-but on this cond.
What in your case, kolenko- I cannot say for sure. But in all likelihood the schemes incl. they have the same motors, the stoves differ only in the presence of some devices. If she does not pull (does not turn) the bun as it should. T. That is, with effort, with a weak speed, it is felt that it lacks power - this is this capacitor. There is simply nothing more to break there! The motor is "eternal" there. If you do not kill him, of course, mercilessly. But in this case, the smoke would be specific.
I once (back in the era of general video salons), that is, during perestroika, worked in a radio workshop and for this I somewhat disagree with you, Rina. Not for reasons of solidarity with the workshop workers. The fact is that for the master, what to change the cond, what the motor, the payment is the same. The cost of a spare part is another matter! But the service doesn't care how much it costs, you pay! The reason is different - in our mentality! The master does not care how many clients come to him and advise others to contact this particular workshop.
It looks like nonsense, but it is !!! It turns out that there is enough for a piece of bread ...and okay! Either this master just has a salary and your problems with the stove are up to him. Although, in theory, everyone should work piece-rate. Otherwise, a brainless lazy person will receive the same amount as a cool master.

[Rina, pinochio!]

Rina, pinochio! Thanks for the feedback. The patient is more likely to be alive than dead, we will be treating a lot. Photo of cond. already printed. The husband promised to look at the radio market. I cheer him up, I say that everyone on the forum has already treated Panasikov. I do not know if he has the qualifications to re-solder something there - at school on the UPC, he says, he soldered .... And with hope in his voice he asks how much is a new stove?

[kolenko]

kolenko, I think, it will not be difficult to find on the same radio market some master who costs 20-50 UAH. will rewire the capacitor, and also promise this master that you will send ALL Kiev owners of Panasonic to him

the bread makers have not yet cured everything ... while my Yunold kneads, and I bake in the oven ...

[Rina!]

Rina! I agree, I will look for master-golden hands on the radio market - fortunately, three stops from me. I promise to report the results

kolenko, the same cond. you can hardly find by size. It’s bad that I didn’t take a picture of the one I set. Cylinder-shaped condos are likely to be on sale. I have one. It fits well there. The Jew glued it. nails and that's it. Moreover, he has leads from a wire in isolation, solder wherever you want. The main thing is that email. the parameters were the same.

[Thank you!!!]

The fact is that for the master, what to change the cond, what the motor, the payment is the same. The cost of a spare part is another matter! But the service doesn't care how much it costs, you pay! The reason is different - in our mentality! The master does not care how many clients come to him and advise others to contact this particular workshop.
It looks like nonsense, but it is !!! It turns out that there is enough for a piece of bread .... and okay! Either this master just has a salary and your problems with the stove are up to him. Although, in theory, everyone should work piece-rate. Otherwise, a brainless lazy person will receive the same amount as a cool master.

The cost of a spare part is not at all indifferent for the service, nevertheless, they have a certain percentage from it. And it's one thing when I bring (mind you!) A microwave with a very specific breakdown and they charge UAH 200 for ANY microwave repair. + cost of a part (interesting, is it difficult to change the upper grill heater?). Or I bring the HP with a "floating" problem, which is visible to me, as the owner, but not visible to the masters who bake bread exclusively in "test mode". And I will also have to pay for the "diagnostics". And if I insist that there is a problem, what will be changed? That's right, a completely unnecessary engine for me, for which I will have to pay a big sum (wow!). And then I'll bring it back with the same problem ... and in the worst case I'll pay UAH 200, and the engine will be "changed" or "diagnosed". Or I will give them hemorrhoids with the requirement to repair the stove ... And as a result, I will spit, leaving this workshop alone, and buy another HP, which (God forbid!) Will work for three years without problems. And there already someone will die, or me, or the donkey, or the emir (s)

In general, I don’t know what is going on in the heads of the current "service workers". I know one thing - in order not to overpay and not to fool yourself with long ordeals with repairs, you need to climb the appropriate sites and pull information.

For which I never tire of thanking you, our dear men
Because I, quite far from technology, do not need to deal with this very shoveling.

Thank you!!!

A problem arose again, just like two years ago - the dough does not mix well and the bread turns out to be dense and low.
Then they diagnosed the capacitor and replaced it. Now we were taken back to the service, we are waiting for the results.
I thought that I had one such problem, it turns out, no. I don't feel like eating store-bought bread!

and where are such conscious masters found?

I now have the stove disassembled, the capacitor is already sealed off. Tomorrow (we don't have time today) we will go to look for the necessary dutalka.

Rina, in Chernigov
True, they haven't called yet, I don't know what they'll say. Then the repair cost 84 UAH, of which 4 UAH. the capacitor itself!

and my husband today bought a domestic capacitor for 16 UAH. Let's see what is coming today.

[Kompas]

So she, most likely, knocks depending on the position of the kolobok in the bucket. When it is already tight and completely put on the shoulder blade, it begins to beat strongly with the edges against the protrusions on the walls of the bucket (as I understand it, specially designed for this). Hence the randomness of knocking. Well, the engine rotation modes change depending on time. From such blows, the bucket knocks on the stops. I have this in the new 2501. I'm not worried about this. I don't wake up at night =)

Kompas, you know, for some reason I'm sure that that knock is not kolobok ... I know how the dough knocks on the bucket, but what I wrote about is completely different.
Kisa and Osya, thanks for the advice. They wrote interestingly.

Yesterday my husband took our worker out of the service - repair 90g. Again a capacitor. The repair took 4 days.
Yesterday I already baked some shlebushki! Works like new!
Rina, if anything, bring it to us for repair!

[Lenok]

Lenok, congratulations and thank you (I just started thinking about a trip to Chernigov yesterday). My husband had already installed the capacitor yesterday and together we assembled our worker. She even turned on!

Test baking will be either today or tomorrow - I baked so much bread in the oven at a run, we haven't eaten it yet

[Agata]

Usually I do not look into this topic because I have Kenwood, but today for some reason I opened it and lo and behold. that immediately people write about the same problems as in my HP. And the bucket was rubbed like in the photo Agata , and slows down when kneading dough. I'm going to put + pinochio for solving the issue with the con-rum. I read your questions and answers to my husband. He immediately ran to disassemble the stove, but, alas, until it worked out, a screwdriver there needs some special one, except for a curly one.
In general, in my bucket, the whole mechanism is interfering, I need to buy a new one.
Someone asked whether it is possible to lubricate the stirrer with machine oil, it is not necessary to use it. There was a sad experience: my husband dripped machine oil. it seemed like it became easier to turn the mixer, and then either the tightness was broken or I don't know what to call it, but the oil started to get on the dough and it turned out with black stains

my tightness is normal, so machine (light) butter has not yet been found in bread.

17:02
I started the dough on the "pizza" program. Guys, my stove hasn't been spinning like that for a long time!
I ask my husband if a capacitor can affect the speed of the engine? He says no. Assumes that I was scared because I had not seen a normally working Panasonic for a long time

True, something confused me - after the end of the "pizza" program for some reason the light in the "start / stop" button did not blink. The youngest child was suspected, but he swears that he did not press anything
21:05
The "main" program will end soon. Kaaaaak the dough was spinning, how the bun was chasing there! It's a song!

quietly to myself, I'm afraid that at some point the stove will cover.

21:50
I go to the kitchen, the baking process should already be in progress. When 54 minutes were left, baking had not yet started.

Yeast dispenser on Panasonic SD-ZB2502 does not work. Our oven is only two months old, a week ago the dispenser stopped opening and dropping yeast. The dried fruit dispenser is working normally. The display does not show the malfunction. Tell me, please, what could be the reason and what to do?

What is the reason I do not know. Put yeast at the bottom of the bucket under the flour and you will be happy. Yeast dispenser is already some kind of perversion

Someone asked whether it is possible to lubricate the stirrer with machine oil, it is not necessary to use it. There was a sad experience: my husband dripped machine oil. it seemed like it became easier to turn the mixer, and then either the tightness was broken or I don't know what to call it, but the oil started to get on the dough and it turned out with black stains

You can't !!! lubricate the mixer unit with machine or similar oil, and even more so with vegetable (kitchen) oil. It's not even that butter gets on bread, during the war, pigeon eggs, etc., were fried on a machine, for lack of food, and nothing is healthy. This is different. At the high temperature to which the bucket, and others like it and the oil seals with lubrication, are exposed, engine oil turns into something similar to what can be seen in an experienced cast-iron frying pan! That is, burnt oil, which will kill the oil seals very quickly, and then finish the bucket bearing. For these purposes, there is a special food grade silicone !!!! Which is not afraid of high temperatures, perfectly lubricates the bearing, oil seals. Does not change fluidity properties at high temperatures, i.e. it does not become liquid when heated. And if something gets on the product, then you will not even notice, feel it, and in no way will it affect your health.
Above, in this thread, they wrote about him. I think that the easiest way to get it is to buy it on store sites selling coffee machines, or in services for their repair. There it is used in many nodes.

We have trouble
The day before yesterday we bought a Panasonic 2501.
We tried milk bread - wonderful!
But yesterday I wanted to make Easter cake. And the raisin dispenser didn't open !!!!!!
I don’t understand what could be the reason? ...
Please, help!!!!!!

Yeast dispenser on Panasonic SD-ZB2502 does not work.

Somewhere on the forum it was discussed, .. did not find

My wife, when she made bread with raisins in a dispenser, said that sometimes she did not get enough sleep. The raisins had just been washed and were sticking together while holding the dispenser lid. Try drying raisins before baking.

Rinse the raisins, dry and roll in flour. Then it will not stick together.

The stove is 3 years old.
Now she is just kneading the dough, the heating element does not turn on. There are no breaks either in the heating element itself or in its circuit.
100% relay does not work (I was convinced even visually by opening the relay case)
Judging by the marking, the relay is 24 volts. When the heating element "turns on" I have only 7 Volts on the relay.
7B became after the elimination of the detected non-propane of one of the zener diodes from the relay binding. Before that it was 3.6V.
It was not possible to identify faulty elements by dialing the board elements.
Maybe someone came across?

[shines2]

shines2 In the service manual there is no processor board schematic yet, or it's hard to say. It is necessary to "dig" further, look for what "pulls" the relay

The stove is 3 years old.
Now she is just kneading the dough, the heating element does not turn on. There are no breaks either in the heating element itself or in its circuit.
100% relay does not work (I was convinced even visually by opening the relay case)
Judging by the marking, the relay is 24 volts. When the heating element "turns on" I have only 7 Volts on the relay.
7B became after the elimination of the detected non-propane of one of the zener diodes from the relay harness. Before that it was 3.6V.
It was not possible to identify faulty elements by dialing the board elements.
Maybe someone came across?

My tester shows 12 volts on the relay. It also didn't work after I cleaned and slightly straightened the contacts. If you tuck in the anchor of the relay, it remains attracted. I had to bend the contacts back until it started to work.

My tester shows 12 volts on the relay. It also didn't work after I cleaned and slightly straightened the contacts. If you tuck in the anchor of the relay, it remains attracted. I had to bend the contacts back until it started to work.

What is written on the relay case? At what voltage should it work? I have 24V. 7 Volts is not enough anyway. Although, you can play with the anchor. Even if I break it, it’s full of replacement relays from old UPSs.

What is written on the relay case? At what voltage should it work? I have 24V. 7 Volts is not enough anyway. Although, you can play with the anchor. Even if I break it, it’s full of replacement relays from old UPSs.

24 V. Also measure the voltage on the largest electrolyte, it should be 24 volts.

Thank you. That is, marking on the 24 V relay, but does it work from 12?
I do not have 24 V on the electrolyte
Sketched the relay control circuit (possibly with errors, the capacitors were not sketched, since, as far as I understand, they are in such circuits only for filtering and smoothing purposes)

As I understand it, when it is necessary to turn on the heating element, the processor opens the transistors and the voltage from the zener diodes located vertically in my circuit is fed to the relay. When the transistors are closed, the horizontally depicted zener diodes compensate for the voltage from the vertical zener diodes. T. about. the voltage on the relay at the moment of turning on the heating element is set by vertical zener diodes. One of them was not soldered for me. And it is on them that I have about 7 V. A zener diode can reduce the voltage from old age? It's a pity, I can only get to the stove on Thursday.

Where do you see 7 volts? Where do you measure? Not soldering, or "dry" soldering is all in the past. even more so in panasonic. Maybe you just convinced yourself that it exists? Sometimes the normal soldering under the lens looks like it’s not lost. The relay is very sensitive to changes in contact geometry. It may not close due to the fact that the cont. are bent and the magnet core does not fully generate a magnetic field. In this case, the strength of the magn. the field is not enough to pull the tongues of the core well and resp. contacts. If you cleaned the contacts on the relay, pay attention to this. Zener diode does not lose its email. properties, as well as other semiconductors. Try e in "manual", by pressing the tab of the relay, turn on the ten. If it gets hot literally in a matter of seconds. then the matter is in the relay control circuit, or in the relay. We'll figure out.

Where do you see 7 volts? Where do you measure? Not soldering, or "dry" soldering is all in the past. even more so in panasonic. Maybe you just convinced yourself that it exists? Sometimes the normal soldering under the lens looks like it’s not lost. The relay is very sensitive to changes in contact geometry. It may not close due to the fact that the cont. are bent and the magnet core does not fully generate a magnetic field. In this case, the strength of the magn. the field is not enough to pull the tongues of the core well and resp. contacts. If you cleaned the contacts on the relay, pay attention to this. Zener diode does not lose its email. properties, as well as other semiconductors. Try e in "manual", by pressing the tab of the relay, turn on the ten. If it gets hot literally in a matter of seconds. then the matter is in the relay control circuit, or in the relay. We'll figure out.

Let me disagree, non-soldering, there has been and will be, especially without lead solders, and "wave" soldering, aging of the solder has not been canceled. The relay dies mainly on contacts, well, Panasonic does not use (more precisely, in those relays that it buys) the PLI alloy, only silver, and it tends to be coated with Ag2S oxide. Zener diodes, like other semiconductors, are checked 100% only by the replacement method. (changing properties under stress)

In my case, the "non-propay" looked like a zener diode falling out of its place when accidentally touched
I'll try your advice tomorrow.

sazalexter, there are not those currents to take into account oxides. This is not a low-current relay with switching in the MCA. , there, yes, this is important, but here the amperes, with which this oxide is like an elephant, the main thing is that the contact pressure is normal. ... Therefore, the manufacturer does not fool himself on the relay contacts, thereby making the product cheaper. So that the circuit element remains in the hands when swinging !!! This is a cool anti-advertising !!! I have never heard of such a thing, and even more so have not seen it.

I tried to press the anchor of the relay - the heating element heats up, but the anchor is not held. I tried to replace the relay with another (there were no special prerequisites, except perhaps the resistance of the original was somewhere around 1.5 kOhm, and the one that I put 0.6) - nothing changed. I suspect that my superficial knowledge and skills are too little to revive the device on my own. I can't even say for sure that the correct voltage comes from the processor board. I don’t understand which point to measure against, for me, it doesn’t change in the heating element on / off modes, but the voltage changes to the relay.Although, I'm not even sure of that.
Damn, you will have to look for a used stove as an alternative to repair in the service (I suspect that the cost is about the same).