Multi-cooker-pressure cooker-slow cooker Steba DD1 Eco

Girls! Please poke me about how beets can be cooked in our pet. I can't find it.

[Rosalia]

Rosalia, I turn on the vegetables mode and that's it

[Gadgetochca]

Gadgetochca,
Look here

https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=362654.0

Hello everybody!!! I suffered for a long time with the choice of a multicooker. The main requirement is the speed of cooking. I did not expect that Shtebochka still cooks so deliciously))) For two days I have been studying the forum and trying to cook. Rich soup. Chicken 1.5 kg turned out amazingly. Compote, stew, yogurt .... I master it slowly. Thanks for the recipes

Yes, our Shtebochka is such a clever assistant!

[NadAlex]

NadAlex, Nadezhda, welcome to the forum!
Go read the topic, there are a lot of interesting things here and all the problems are described and questions when you first use it
Basics of use, questions and cooking times in the Steba DD1, DD2 pressure cooker

And here we have recipes for Shteba
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&board=532.0

Inna, Lyudmila I bought Shteba! My husband and I were getting ready to see the goods from the window, scuffs and not presentable appearance (according to the girl-operator), but we got a completely new and beautiful Shteba. And even with a Teflon bowl (there is a lid). We checked everything - heating, languor and heating with their temperature regimes - shows everything as it should. Now the soup is making. Shows only the time, I forgot something, what should be on the top scoreboard. Or nothing?
Girls, thanks for the support
Fun of the operator, about scuffs on the case (or somewhere else I did not understand)
In 20 minutes. went to the mode, the countdown went and the pressure shows. Should the button flash or not?

... Shows only the time, I forgot something

The line above - the pressure should be indicated.

Should the button flash or not?

I don’t remember exactly, it seems when it doesn’t blink - heating is in progress, blinking - the sensor does not heat, or vice versa, it does not heat up all the time, but maintains the set temperature.

[Seoul]

Seoul, the button indicating which cooking mode is in progress flashes.

In my DD1 Eco, the LED next to the mode button flashes only during the selection, when we can change the time or pressure, and after the start it lights up continuously, does not flash.

If the program is without pressure, it flashes when the temperature changes during cooking.

[Marina]

Marina
Exactly - I checked on Heating, the LED first lights up constantly, blinks after the temperature drops to the set or lower, you can hear how the relay clicks at this moment, turning on the heating element. Then, having reached the temperature, it lights up again, does not blink.
Wow, I've been making yoghurt for three years, yogurt in Shteba, I haven't noticed the "blinking" of the LED.

P.S.
Checked with pressure - chose Vegetables, default 0.7b, 15 min.
When the program starts, after the start, the LED lights up continuously until the pressure is built up. As soon as 0.7b was displayed on the top line, the LED at the button began to blink and blinked until the end of the program, regardless of the heating element, although it was heard how the relay sometimes clicked.

P.P.S.
I checked it on languor - it behaves in the same way as on programs with pressure. After switching on, before heating to the set temperature, the LED near the button is on without blinking; as soon as it heats up to the set t - the LED blinks until the end of the cooking time, regardless of whether the heating element is turned on / off.

Thanks to the girls for focusing on this. To be honest, I have never paid attention to LEDs in buttons. It remains to check on Roasting, but it's not today ...

And mine is blinking ... but it is cooking :) Maybe it should blink.I asked to clarify. Actually, I don't really care about it, just to cook. Also, there is no countdown on toasting. And she does not squeak. Finish current.
I am satisfied with everything

[Elena]

Elena
In the Roasting mode (lower left mode button), the countdown begins after heating to 170 * C. Therefore, you must first turn on the mode with an empty bowl, it is possible with a small amount of rast. oil, wait for the warming-up signal, it will take a few minutes, then put the food for frying in the bowl. If you put it in a cold bowl, the countdown may not go, since most products contain water in their composition, which is difficult to heat above 100 degrees with an open bowl - boiling away, water carries away heat and maintains a boiling point of 100 degrees. When the food is already very deeply fried, having lost moisture, the bottom of the bowl may heat up to 170 * C and a signal will sound, but there is a risk of overcooking the food if you do not follow the process.

Now it is clear. I'll check it tomorrow. And after a minute (I look at the oven clock), I threw everything down, happy and fry it. I think a minute has passed, the countdown does not go, well, okay. Fries then she WOW! Have time to stir only. Thanks for the tip

Added on Tuesday 30 Aug 2016 01:49 PM

Alex_Fil
Yes, I waited a couple of minutes and the frying boiled over. It's good that everything was cut in advance, otherwise I would not have time to stir.
Alex_Fil
The LED behaves in the same way as you described.

Trouble-trouble-chagrin ... My plug didn't turn on today ...
The day before yesterday I cooked meat, everything was fine. And today, even the indication of inclusion did not appear.
What is it now, to look for a service, to drag it to Moscow somehow?

My plug didn't turn on today ...

My Shtebochka had such a problem. We changed the power board and mmm ... since then it has been plowing without smoke breaks for two years.

What's going on with the power board? Maybe my husband can fix it himself? ... The warranty has ended anyway, they bought it more than 2 years ago.
So I don’t want to take a large unit somewhere, there is no car, but it’s still a pleasure to travel from the region by public transport.

What's going on with the power board?

But this I do not know. I am not a repairman, I am a user.

[Ludmila]

What's going on with the power board? Maybe my husband can fix it himself? ...

Ludmila, don't be quick to suspect the power board.
At least check the power cord - it may be loose in the pressure cooker or broken somewhere in the fold. Can be replaced for verification with any computer.
If it's not about the cord, besides the power board, there are thermal fuses in the pressure cookers, sometimes, if they burn out, the device does not show signs of life either.
Of course, there may be defects in the components of the power board, but here, to check, and even more so, for repair, you need the appropriate devices, tools, skills, and spare parts if something is out of order.

What's going on with the power board? Maybe my husband can fix it himself?

Sometimes it flies from a voltage drop. It burns out simply, but it will die without problems. The most common breakdown in all multicooker.
My repair had this, so they changed it in 2 days. And then it worked without problems.
So you have to take her to the service. Or buy a power board in the service and the husband will change himself if he knows how. And if it's exactly a power board.
Better to the service, they will check what exactly burned out.
This breakdown is not terrible))))

In general, in Comfort you can buy it, this board. In other places, spare parts are not sold separately, only repairs in the complex.
My husband seems to have checked everything ... There are tools, devices, a head and hands, there is no experience in repairing such a unit, like the schemes.)))
Hopefully replacing the board will give me my plug back!))

Lyudmila, are you and your husband sure that the matter is in the board? Ordering a board will cost a lot of money, what if it's not about it, but about a penny thermal fuse? Or for another reason not related to the power board?

Lyudmila, if my husband has a multimeter or a continuity probe, first check the integrity of the thermal fuses. Look at the photo.
Remove the power cord from the pressure cooker, turn it upside down, unscrew the 2 self-tapping screws holding the metal cap. Under it there will be two wires coming from the ~ 220 V power socket to the power board. In white fiberglass cambric, fuses are screwed to the rack with brackets. Unscrew the screw that is between the brackets, slide the cambric and ring the fuses. They have a response rating of 142 * C.
When the temperature under the bottom of the bowl is higher than this value, they may melt (burn out) and power ~ 220 V will not go to the power board. They can burn out for another reason - short circuit or breakdown in some places of the power board or its radio components, or even in the heating element. Then the repair will be more complicated.
To check if the fuse, or both, is open, you can short-circuit the circuit by making jumpers (wrapping the leads of each separately) with a thin copper wire with a diameter of 0.16 ~ 0.20 mm, pull back the insulating cambric (required!). After that, you can connect the cord to the pressure cooker and plug it into an outlet, preferably connected to a power breaker for an operating current of 10A, no more. If there was overheating, which led to the blowing of the fuses, everything will work when connected to the network. If there is a short circuit somewhere - the AP will knock out or the jumpers will burn out, maybe not immediately, but after the start of any operating mode, even Roasting, even Heating or any pressure, when ~ 220 V power is supplied to the heating element.
All work under voltage should be carried out in compliance with safety measures, with protection against electric shock, suddenly, there is a voltage breakdown on the case or on other parts of the device!
It cannot be denied that the malfunction is in the power board - for example, a malfunction of the PWM controller, which converts the supply voltage from ~ 220V to a constant low voltage or in the circuits of its strapping - here you will need to replace the board, since it is easier than looking for the desired part ...
I wish you good luck with the repair of the Shtebochka!

[Alex_Fil]

Alex_Fil,
Thank you very much for your consultation! He has already disassembled it and checked something for sure, there are all kinds of devices (he is connected with an electrician for work). Tomorrow I'll show him your post.
And here's another question - what if you buy a power board and a control board from DD2 and insert it into DD1? Or will such a trick fail?

[Ludmila]

Ludmila, honestly - I don't know how much the DD2 was modernized. The most important thing is whether the thermal sensor in the central "pimple" remains the same, its characteristics. If it is similar to DD1, then, probably, replacing the control board (plus the power board, which may be the same for DD1 and DD2, I don't know) will lead to a complete upgrade to the "second generation" model.

Alex_Fil,
Thank you very much for your consultation! He has already disassembled it and checked something for sure, there are all kinds of devices (he is connected with an electrician for work). Tomorrow I'll show him your post.
And here's another question - what if you buy a power board and a control board from DD2 and insert it into DD1? Or will such a trick fail?

Lyudmila, the trick will pass. Will DD2

[Shtebovich]

Shtebovich, maybe you whisper what to put in order to turn off the Heating in advance? ..
It's not harmful to dream, but, suddenly, I will find Kulibin too.

[new]

what to put in order to turn off the heating in advance?

Perhaps the control board from new DD2 XL?

DD2 XL

in them, the heating is not turned off in advance either

But what about it?


At last!!!
My question is, is this something new that I missed? I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed, I am now reading the topic for the second time I could not pay attention.

Yes, there is a new batch of DD2 XL for which the heating does not turn on automatically. You can distinguish it without opening the package. The EAC mark is printed on the box of new models, and the old sticker or even the Rostest logo is applied to the old ones. When buying, a new model will probably arrive, but ... there are still remnants of the old model in the air store and I don't know what they will bring.

It has become very convenient: earlier, at the end of the cooking program, the Heating was turned on for only 4 hours and with a temperature of 70 * C, and now you can set any time from 1 minute to 24 hours and the temperature of keeping warm from 30 to 80 * C, or do not include it at all.

[S-t]

the focus will pass. Will DD2

S-t, thanks for the info !!!)) Perhaps I'll decide on an upgrade!
And they are put in the same places, right?

yes, the board sizes are the same.

[S-t]

S-t, please tell me where to get a 6l xl ceramic bowl - nowhere?

control board from new DD2 XL

I will find Kulibin too

Is there Kulibin, where can I get a fee?

[olaola1]

olaola1, Ol, I understand that Comfort-Maximum, or what?

Added Saturday 17 Sep 2016 06:50 AM

You can buy it for comfort, this board.

Added Saturday 17 Sep 2016 05:20 PM

I have grief too ...
Yesterday I began to cook something, I hear something rattling suspiciously in the lid. I decided to disassemble and see, fortunately, that Masha took out, how to disassemble, a separate link.
In short, in the red part of the lid, almost all the "places" for fixing the self-tapping screws have crumbled, including near the plate pushing the locking pin ...

How to collect it now, I don’t know ...
S-t, Shtebovich, but is it possible to buy only the red part of the lid? The rest is all normal ...

Hope, there are no ceramic 6 liters and will not be available in the near future.

Marina, the red part of the cover can be bought. Email me the address and name of the recipient.

I made a winter salad with beans in the staff, it is convenient. Previously, I boiled a tomato for 5-6 hours in a cauldron, then cooked it for a long time with beans. And here, a tomato (rolled in a blender) 50 minutes (d 07) and then 35 minutes with beans, then everything else with an open lid and into jars. A little bit left, tried it, delicious


Fried onions, eggplants, carrots in vegetable oil.

I haven't made salads for the winter for a hundred years, it's just that this year, beloved relatives, filled up with vegetables And they deteriorate, I had to save More zucchini mountain

[Ira!]

Ira! Cool seaming and did not have to spend a lot of time. Winter will pick up everything!

Oh, but whoever ate Natal, my zazhramis, do not eat a fig Before, then, after all, I did a lot ...

[So - the first experience.]

I decided to check if it is possible to fry in Shteba (I have DD1) in modes with pressure, but without a lid, that is, without pressure in the bowl.
In principle, Shteba fries well on the regular Frying program, the heating temperature there is about 170 degrees, but there were questions from users whether there is a possibility of more intense frying.

So - the first experience.
To control that the heating element is turned on and a voltage of ~ 220V comes to it, I unscrewed the metal lid at the bottom of the pressure cooker and connected an ordinary incandescent lamp in a cartridge with wires to the terminals of the heating element. So it is very clearly visible - the heating element is on or off. The staff and the bowl were at room temperature - I didn't cook, I didn't turn on for two days. To control the temperature, I used a thermometer bought on Ali - like this, TP101:



Usually, how is it recommended to fry in Stebe? Pour some oil into the bowl, turn on the Roasting program and wait for the warm-up signal - then the countdown will start on the display.
So I did. I poured the rust into a stainless steel bowl. oil to cover the bottom by 1 to 2 mm. I turned on the Kasha program with the default parameters - 0.7b, 10 min.
After the start of the program, my light came on, heating started. After 4 minutes (detected by the kitchen electronic timer, which started immediately after the start of the program), the oil in the bowl heated to 180 * C, which is more than in the Frying mode, heating continued. Smooth(!) after 5 minutes the relay clicked, my light went out, which means that the heating element turned off. On the top line of the display, nothing lit up (in the sense, pressure symbols 0.7b). The oil had a thermometer temperature of 216 * C, and the temperature continued to rise. I didn’t have time to notice whether the countdown had started, such a high temperature confused me. I turned off the Porridge mode and turned on the languor mode - a button with a drawn thermometer.The light bulb (and the heating element) turned on for one second and went out. On the top line, I saw 220c - this is a very high temperature for a pressure cooker; inside, in the case, thermal fuses are installed to operate at 142 * C. Therefore, I quickly took out a bowl of hot oil, and inserted a spare Teflon bowl into the Shteba body, poured some water to cool the heating element as soon as possible.
What conclusion follows from the first experience ...
Apparently, the developers incorporated in the algorithm of the programs with pressure a continuous five-minute heating of the heating element, without control from the built-in temperature sensor. The goal is to gain pressure as quickly as possible, but for this it is necessary that there is water in the bowl, which turns into steam and a closed lid with a closed valve. If, after 5 minutes, the thermal sensor detects a critically high temperature, the heating element turns off.

The second experience.
The pressure cooker is cold. A bowl of butter, too, to room temperature.
Now I took three small potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes. Enabled by default, Porridge, 0.7b 10 min. I did not wait for warming up, I put potatoes in the bowl, practically in one layer at the bottom of the bowl. The temperature did not rise so quickly now, this is understandable. Like any food, the pot contains moisture, that is, water, which is a good heat sink for the bowl and heating element. He began to measure the temperature when the potatoes began to crackle in oil. After three minutes (on a separate timer), the oil between the potato slices showed 110 * C, after 4, and after 5 minutes - about 120 * C, and - lo and behold, the heating element did not turn off after 5 minutes, but continued to warm up continuously, my light was on ! And the more rosy the potatoes became, the more the oil in the bowl heated up. It's clear that the water was evaporated from the potatoes. And the heating element kept heating and heating ...
As a result, exactly 14 minutes later, the potatoes acquired a ruddy and very appetizing look, then they would simply burn. Turned it off. The thermometer showed 186 * C, and when turned on for languor, the display saw 190 * C. The heating element was heating continuously. On the top line, nothing lit up On the bottom line, they glowed sadly at 0:10 ...
Conclusion from the second experiment.
With food in the bowl, heating of the heating element when the program is running with pressure (and with an open lid) is not so critical, since the evaporated water carries away heat, providing heat removal. The pressure cooker simply works like a 900 W electric burner. Frying is quite possible. At the end, the temperature is even higher than in Frying mode.

Third experience.
What is a pressure sensor for? It's at the bottom of the pressure cooker and I've shown it before.
He waited again for the bowl and Shteba to cool down.
I take an empty stainless steel bowl. He put on the lid, but removed the valve. The metal cap at the bottom is unscrewed. He tilted Shtebu back at an angle of about 45 degrees, rested against the wall. I turn on the Porridge mode, by default.
Without waiting for something there to get very hot, I open the contact with a screwdriver slipped under the pressure sensor plate. The relay immediately clicks, the heating element and the light bulb connected to it are turned off. On the top line of the display, 0.7b lights up and the countdown begins! This can be seen from the way the colon blinked at 0:10 and the LED next to the Kasha button blinked. Moreover, the restoration of the contact again turns on the heating element, and opening the contact of the pressure sensor turns off the heating element.
The heating element itself is switched on using an intermediate relay on the power board, but this relay is controlled by the microcontroller, it is he who analyzes the state of the sensor contact. And let's take into account that the temperature at the thermal sensor in this experiment was far from that which would be with superheated steam with a pressure of 0.7b, not 115 * С! On / off This did not affect the heating element in any way.
Conclusion from the third experiment. Using a pressure sensor (in modes with a pressure of 0.7b), heating of the heating element is controlled, that is, it is turned on / off to maintain the standard pressure in the bowl. This is provided mechanically - when the pressure is typed, the silicone seal ring expands like a wedge between the lid and the body, the bowl presses on the heating element and they move downward relative to the body literally by a millimeter or a little more. Then the contact, which is mechanically connected to the heating element, opens and this leads to the disconnection of the heating element.Having cooled down a little, the pressure in the bowl drops a little, the contact is restored and the heating of the heating element turns on.

The fourth experience.
In the switched off pressure cooker, I put a cardboard box under the sensor contact - I opened the contact. I turn on the pressure cooker in the network - on the scoreboard, as expected, lines. But turning on any mode does not work at all. The buttons do not respond in any way.
Usually, in other pressure cookers of other manufacturers, when the pressure sensor contact is lost, the E4 error signal is displayed on the display. Shteba doesn't have that. The modes just do not turn on.

P.S.
If that - I have a 2012 Steba DD1 Eco, as I understood from the sticker on the bottom (there are such numbers: 9-12 / 2012)

[Alex_Fil]

Alex_Fil, your experience has carried over to the topic on the basics of use on the first page.

Girls, tell me how to wash the silicone ring. Very sticky.

[ptaha909]

how to wash the silicone ring. Very sticky.

ptaha909try baking soda or mustard (dry)

Thank you

Continuation of my story with Shteba.
EVERYTHING WORKED OUT!!!)))
We bought 2 new boards (power and control) for DD2, put them in DD1 and ... Staff DD1 turns ... into Staff DD2! So, if you wish, you can upgrade, the issue price is 2500r.))
The test was successful, I baked a cake based on "Shrimati" on the "Simmering" 120C mode.

[about]

EVERYTHING WORKED OUT!!!)))

Zdaboutrovo! Congratulations on your updated assistant!

[LudMila]

LudMila, Lyudmila, congratulations !! Now with the updated Shteba))

damn, here I have distinguished myself Always thought - how you can pour something straight into a multicooker without a pan. And now I didn't even get a grasp of how to save the multicooker in such a situation. I poured the dough for "Cheese Fair" straight into the body. It seems a little., Quickly caught on. It seems to have scooped out, but I see that it has leaked from below. What now? Disassemble? Carry directly to the service ???

[Robin bobin]

Robin bobin, Lena, I didn't have that ... But Shteba understands it quite simply, there are photos on the previous page, Alex_Fil posted it.

I had this. I poured rice and poured some water!
Spun the cartoon, YOURSELF! Out of fear, usually I can neither unscrew nor scroll anything. There was no man on the side, I decided - the faster, the more chances to save. Unscrewed stupidly all the screws (or whatever it is called) that I saw. I didn't even think about how I would twist it back.
She dried and shaken out the rice. A day later, somehow magically, I again twisted the cartoon myself. The buttons didn't work. Spun-twisted already more cheerful. And lo and behold! All buttons work except "start". Once again she unrolled-twisted. Uryayaya! It worked !!!!! But the truth is, this "start" button is still not pressed the first time. Sometimes I can press it on any one for a minute, but it is always pressed in the end !!!
The truth of the cartoon was different - Gastrobak