Problems with the KENWOOD AT340 High Speed ​​Slicer

Good day. There are problems with the KENWOOD AT340 high speed slicer. With a slight pressure on the blade during operation, it stops rotating. Since the motor of the machine continues to work and at the exit at pressure the rotation stops (without pressure everything rotates) - I sin on the AT340 gearbox itself and given that it is no longer under warranty, I decided to disassemble and see how to fix it. The mechanism of the box is quite tricky and I myself cannot figure it out. Can anyone come across and can tell which of the parts needs to be replaced. Parts are easy to order, but which one is not clear to me. Thank you!

[IceB]

IceB, on page 244 about a similar problem, but with a food processor, wrote Prank... But I did not find how it ended.

I have the same problem - I don’t know what’s the matter, I’m sinning on the lid, but there are still no spare parts - just change the nozzle

With a slight pressure on the blade during operation, it stops rotating. Since the motor of the machine continues to work and at the exit at pressure the rotation stops (without pressure everything rotates) - I sin on the AT340 gearbox itself and given that it is no longer under warranty, I decided to disassemble and see how to fix it.

Good day!
First, check the socket on the machine itself (turn on the mini chopper for example) and the socket on the AT340 gearbox. Try to rotate on the side of the socket from the machine, it should rotate without much effort. Is the reducer CAREFULLY disassembled and can you take pictures?
Possible problems, lubrication, or transmission gear. If the latter is a problem, it's easier to look for a reducer.

How and where?

As an option - the British site espares (.co.uk) - I do not advertise - this is what I found on the Internet.
Surely there are also specialized websites.

I have the same problem - I don’t know what’s the matter, I’m sinning on the lid, but there are still no spare parts - just change the nozzle

There are spare parts - see above.
I think the problem is in one of the details of the AT340 gearbox mechanism.
A small pressure on the axle and the gearbox stops creating rotation - that is, the torque from the motor is scrolled to idle inside the gearbox.

First, check the socket on the machine itself (turn on the mini chopper for example) and the socket on the AT340 gearbox. Try to rotate on the side of the socket from the machine, it should rotate without much effort.

I checked the nests - everything is normal. Apart from AT340, everything works as it should.

Is the gearbox CAREFULLY disassembled and can you take pictures?

I carefully disassembled it, but I don't understand where the problem is.

The arrow indicates the central axis, at a light pressure ha which stops the rotation of the reducer at the output.

I checked the nests - everything is normal. Apart from AT340, everything works as it should.

Quote: Vlad_Ru from Today at 01:32 PM
The gearbox is CAREFULLY disassembled and can you take pictures?
I carefully disassembled it, but I don't understand where the problem is.

It's nice to know that there are people with hands
thanks, the photos are great!
And so, the thoughts are the following, it seems that there are problems with the belt (rubber chips), and also look at the insides of the gear that transfers to the shredder itself (in the first picture on the right).
Try to put the disassembled gearbox on the car and at low speeds see what and how and how to press the axle, BUT very carefully,
necessarily small turns, be careful with your hands.
And see if there is any play in the large gear (to which the belt goes), as well as in the gear from the first picture that transfers to graters.

Try to put the disassembled gearbox on the car and at low speeds see what and how

Thank you!
Good half an hour conjured behind a machine with a disassembled gearbox.
It seems from the observed that all the mechanisms are working as usual - but as we know, this is not so. Somewhere there is a problem.
The alignment is
* From the motor axis of the machine through a belt, rotation is transmitted to a large gear - photo 2
* With the pressure on the axle indicated by the arrow (photo 4) without the installed mechanism with 3 gears, the rotation continues despite the pressure. Therefore, in my opinion, the whole mechanism in photo 2 works without problems including the belt.
* With the installed mechanism with 3 gears (photo 3), rotation from the central gear (photo 2) is transmitted to the 3 gears rotating around their axis. At the same time, the adjacent circular and three-carbon platform of these 3 gears also rotates transmitting torque to the axis of the blade itself. In other words, as I understand it - there is no rotation of the platform with 3 gears - as a result, there is no rotation of the blade. So, with very little pressure on the central axis (arrow in photo 4), the rotation of this platform stops and 3 gears rotate around their axis. But all this is without the top cover of the gearbox on which another large gear is installed, which is mounted on 3 small ones.
* With the lid closed - the result is identical - with a slightly higher pressure on the axis, the rotation of the blade axis stops.
What to sin on?

What to sin on?

I don’t know if the interlocks are somehow connected, but, for example, there is a blocking of work when the machine head is raised.
Is there some extra emergency lock for the high speed and medium speed jack?
I just pushed on the pins - nothing is blocked, but when I try to raise the "head" it stops.
Could there be something in the mechanism "shortcut" between these presses and fixation of the head?
Try not to press on the pins while working in the assembled state, but on the head of the machine.
That is, perhaps it is not the pressure on the slicer blades, but the pressure on the whole frame or head of the machine
Well, look at what the gear presses on, when installed, the car starts to stall.
Good luck!

Thank you Olga. The car does not stall. In my opinion, the point is solely in the AT340 inductor.
An additional half hour with the patient led me to the following conclusions.

In this photo on the right, there is a large plastic gear and a small metal gear on top of it. It is the small gear that is directly connected to the central axis. In other words, if I pinch a metal gear with my fingers and turn on the machine, then a large plastic gear rotates from the machine by means of a belt, and a small metal gear with the central rod does not rotate only due to a light clamping with my fingers. Should it be so? For me, it makes much more sense that the big / small gears and the rod itself are one. After all, the rotation of the small gear and the central rod just transfers the rotational motion to the blade. Among other things, this part is sold as one piece under the name - Large Pulley Assembly.

I wish I could disassemble the worker and see if the small gear rotates separately from the big one ...
In addition, since such a booze, I tried to pull this part out of the case, but it was not there. It seems that there are no fasteners and a large gear does not come out and that's it. Maybe the belt is holding her tight? Is it possible to remove the belt without damaging it and then put it on again? I already thought that the part is not removable and is part of the case, but the upper / lower parts of the case are sold naked, which means that the part is removable by definition.

What do you think ?

The belt can be easily and safely removed and put on as many times as you like.
It doesn't have to be that way. The small metal gear should sit firmly on the shaft.
If it turns, you can try to twist it off the shaft and see what is the reason.
Well, or just drill a thin through hole and nail the gear tightly.

The belt can be easily and safely removed and put on as many times as you like.

Thank you Pavel. I'll try.

The small metal gear should sit firmly on the shaft.

Apparently the dog is buried there.

IceB, tomorrow I'll see how on my gearbox.
Are there no backlashes where the grater shaft is put on?

That would be great. I do not observe any backlashes.

In other words, if I pinch a metal gear with my fingers and turn on the machine, then a large plastic gear rotates from the machine by means of a belt, and a small metal gear with the central rod does not rotate only due to a light clamping with my fingers. Should it be so?

Stop, I seem to have missed this paragraph (my head is spinning at work)
Did I understand correctly, does the small gear turn? If so, then this is a malfunction, the gear should sit rigidly on the shaft and rotate with the large one on which the belt is worn.

tomorrow I'll see how on my gearbox.

Look, don't look, but the gear on the shaft in this mechanism should not turn. This is obvious enough.

Stop, I seem to have missed this paragraph (my head is spinning at work)
Did I understand correctly, does the small gear turn? If so, then this is a malfunction, the gear should sit rigidly on the shaft and rotate with the large one on which the belt is worn.

Exactly. And I do not see any other (budget) options, except how to pin it.

[IceB]

IceB, Pavel is right, the easiest way to repair is to drill a 1mm drill through the gear and shaft and insert the pin. This is if the gear on the shaft turns, and if the shaft itself, then perhaps only a replacement.

By the way, the belt is removed with a slotted screwdriver from the large gear.

this is a malfunction, the gear must sit rigidly on the shaft and rotate with the large one on which the belt is put on.

This is obvious enough.

Apparently we found a malfunction. There is nothing to drill with and I think it's easier for me to order a part - Large Pulley Assembly.

Now it remains to figure out how and in what order to dismantle this entire mechanism ...
If I understand correctly, the first thing to do is remove the belt from this large gear, and then the whole gear is removed from the case?

the belt is removed with a slotted screwdriver from the large gear.

I tried it - I didn't master it. And with hands and a slot - nothing. Do you need to make an effort? What is the algorithm? Where and how to slip the screwdriver?
After removing the belt from the large gear, it can be removed from the housing "with a slight movement of the hand", or it also requires effort. I tried to pull it out with a belt - I didn't even pull it out by a millimeter, making no small effort with my fingers.

and if the shaft itself, then perhaps only a replacement.

I can hardly imagine that a smooth shaft would be fused into a plastic gear in premium technology. The landing end is most often ribbed or profiled and cannot turn. But even in this version, the figure shows a certain side around the mounting hole and it may be enough to stick the pin.

There is nothing to drill with and I think it's easier for me to order a part - Large Pulley Assembly.

And in vain. In any locksmith shop business for 20 minutes and 500 rubles. You just need a drilling machine. However, if the efforts to purchase and the cost of the spare part in the aggregate are less than 1000 rubles, you should probably take the spare part.

What is the algorithm? Where and how to slip the screwdriver?

The screwdriver is slipped under the belt and onto the upper limiting edge of the small gear and removed from it with a rotational motion. The gears, judging by the drawing, sit as shafts in bronze plain bearings and possibly have a ball bearing in the center of the shaft. Accordingly, after removing the belt, it should be easy enough to pull out of the seats.

under the belt and on the upper limiting rib of the small gear

It worked. I hope I haven't damaged the belt.

after removing the belt, they should easily be pulled out of the seats.

It's like that.
After removing the gear from the body, I pulled on the small gear and pulled out the main shaft slightly.

As seen in the photo, the large gear sits on the ribbed shaft end. At the moment, even after returning the large gear to these ribs - the gear is scrolling - apparently the plastic at the landing site has become unusable after 3 years of use. I will order a new part and unsubscribe based on the results.
Thanks to all !

As seen in the photo, the large gear sits on the ribbed shaft end. At the moment, even after returning the large gear to these ribs - the gear is scrolling - apparently the plastic at the landing site has become unusable after 3 years of use. I will order a new part and unsubscribe based on the results.
Thanks to all !

That is, the shaft turns in the fit in the plastic gear? In three years, the plastic crumbled. Bad, but easier on the other hand. You can bore the bore hole to, for example, a square (any irregular shape is possible) and bluntly fill it with epoxy (after thoroughly cleaning the ribs of the shaft seat from the remains of plastic). The only thing is not to miss the centering. Therefore, it is enough to chop off a couple of corners at the hole. However, this is not for everybody.
And where, by the way, do you order spare parts?

However, this is not for everybody.

Not for me

And where, by the way, do you order spare parts?

I ordered na on the British site espares (.co.uk), and since this is my first order - I can't say anything about this office yet.

[IceB]

IceB, you are well done! We did everything right.
If it's not a secret, tell me how much the replacement will cost when you receive it.

Paul I, alas, epoxy will not work. It will crumble, there is no weak effort.
You can try to insert the pin and melt it into the gear, but this requires a good master.

alas, epoxy will not work. It will crumble out, there is no weak effort.
You can try to insert the pin and melt it into the gear, but this requires a good craftsman.

You are probably right about epoxy. But not only because the effort is great and will crumble. The point is that if the plasticizers have dried up, that is, it has aged and began to crumble, neither epoxy nor pins will help. And it may not melt. It depends on what kind of plastic. Well, it will be almost impossible to center and ensure strict verticality in all planes without special equipment. And this is perhaps the main ambush.

[IceB]

IceBBy the way, good advice, if not expensive, order also a belt. Given the rubber chips in the gearbox, it is possible that the belt should also be replaced.

By the way, good advice, if not expensive, order also a belt. Given the rubber chips in the gearbox, it is possible that the belt should also be replaced.

Hardly. It is clear that there are chips from the operation of the belt, but given the load on the unit, unlike the same timing belt, it is most likely eternal.

I ordered na on the British site espares (.co.uk), and since this is my first order - so far I can not say anything about this office

1500 about item and delivery. Isn't it expensive? Have you tried searching in local services?

it is most likely eternal.

Perhaps the truth is yours. Nonetheless

also order a belt

Taking note of your previous remark about shavings, in addition to inexperienced dismantling, I ordered with the belt

search local services?

In services at my place of residence, I will not find this cheaper.

Thank you!

Taking note of your previous remark about shavings, in addition to inexperienced dismantling, I ordered with the belt

By the way, where did you find the correct name for the part - Large Pulley Assembly?

de correct part name found

Here

4kenwood.co.uk/major-attachments/at340-pro-slicer-grater/large-pulley-assembly/product.pl?pid=1887037&path=71423,582604&model_ref=930412

Well, between us girls, Kenwood did just that. As well as the shaft of the screw juicer, which I wrote about in detail above.

In services at my place of residence, I will not find this cheaper.

What about the shipping cost?

It was such a thing that was changed for me two weeks ago (we found it with tremendous difficulty)
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/in...com_smf&topic=467617.5740
and another belt. Moreover, my harvester works extremely rarely (as I wrote, the dough was kneaded once every 2 weeks approximately and the maximum was 500-700g of flour, so it’s impossible to say that the machine worked "for wear and tear").
Kenwood began making the mechanisms of their food processors out of lousy materials.
just for comparison - the Kenwood FP-404 still works great for me. was made in England, where I cut vegetables and make shortbread dough (I also have a disc for small "julienne" and a squeezer for citrus fruits - it still works).

and so. his plastic bowl shaft has crumbled from old age (I don’t know what this thing is called in Russian). but the motor itself still works fine. And I am so sorry to throw it away. because I know that now I will not buy anything like that or I will have to pay astronomical money. And such a thing can no longer be bought anywhere-no longer available.

[Peter Push]

This is exactly the thing I changed for two weeks

Rather similar than the same. Because the boys are discussing a piece of a nozzle, and you have a piece in the car. These shafts are similar, however, any shafts + - are similar, but probably of different sizes, different loads.

There are people here who have cars as old as yours - 5-6. That is, the same years of release. As simpler models, so more expensive. It seems like Peter Push also KMM770 like yours for a long time. Such cardinal breakdowns have not been described.

Colleagues, I have such an ambush here that the vegetable cutter gearbox is extremely reluctant to be put into the nest. With such resistance that I myself cannot deliver, I have to ask my husband. The attachment was bought in England, new. Visually, everything is fine with her. We have a Chef Titanium machine. Used twice, everything turns, is cut. But putting it in place and removing it is a big power problem. Perhaps we are doing something wrong?