Rybka, only auto-translation:
Condensed milk: Vietnamese Yogurt Recipe
The National Nutrition Journal recently contacted me asking about Vietnamese yogurt. Was there something French? How do the Vietnamese people eat? How is Vietnamese yogurt made? My mom made yogurt when we lived decades ago in Vietnam. It was the best, subtly sweet spicy and juicy. When we arrived in America in the mid 1970s, I was amazed at the sugary fruit-bottom-type yogurt that was popular back then. The plain yogurt at the time was exactly the opposite - so sourly it made me embarrassing and I didn't touch it after the first try. Years later, in the French Yoplait style I eat yogurt again, but it gradually became sweeter over time, and I quit.
It was until I went to China in 1992 that I tried my childhood yogurt again. It is on a cold winter morning in Kunming to acquire a supplier who will cycle through the city with a rack of warm yogurt to sell to passers-by. The yoghurt was made in tiny glass jars and my companions, and I drank it with equally tiny straws, emptying it from each jar before handing it back to the seller, who then moved outside for his next sale. The magazine's request pushed me to research and figure out how to make Vietnamese-style yoghurt to capture the flavor from my youth.
Sri Chef's Ways to Make Yogurt
in Vietnamese, the yogurt is called SUA Chua ("su-av chu-ai" means sour milk) or da-ua ("yeah uh-ah" is a transliteration of the French yaourt). This is indeed a trace of the French presence in Vietnam, and there are two main ways that chefs in Vietnam make yogurt:
(1) Fresh milk method: Mix fresh milk with sugar and a little yogurt, and then incubate the mixture until it is thickened into yogurt.
(2) Reduced milk method: Dilute condensed milk with water, mix with yogurt, then incubate the mixtures.
The fresh milk method is quite plentiful in line with traditional Western approaches to homemade yogurt. Note that the already made yogurt acts as a starter by introducing a bunch of live, active cultures into the mix.
I am partial to the condensed milk approach, as it highlights the resourcefulness of Vietnamese chefs. First, you don’t have to worry about super fresh milk, which is difficult to obtain in tropical Vietnam. Second, many cooks use condensed milk can their measuring cup develop a consistent milk to water ratio of yogurt; measuring cups and spoons are virtually absent in Vietnam. Third, the resulting melodious sweet, delicate yogurt has a light texture. You can eat Vietnamese yogurt in the morning, afternoon and night as an appetizer or dessert. It's healthy too.
While traveling in Vietnam, you will notice that there is often yoghurt offered in the buffet restaurant. Enjoy with a bowl of pho noodle soup! Delis Vietnamese and overseas bakeries often sell yogurt in plastic lid cups in their refrigerator case. Compared to commercial yoghurt in the West, the Vietnamese varieties are thinner, but certainly lacking in subtle flavor.
Do you need equipment for the production of yoghurt?
No.I've been playing around with this homemade Vietnamese yogurt recipe for a week and it's so simple and straightforward that I can't stand it.
As far as incubating with yogurt, it's nothing more than putting it in a hot water bath. When I asked my mom if she had ever used one of these bodies of electric yogurt, she laughed and said, "What is this?" It is used to set up with yoghurt and hot water bath outside in the hot Saigon sun to promote incubation! In my kitchen, I found that using the cauldron lid worked just fine, and 6 hours for the yoghurt to develop a light flavor. As the hot water cools down, the yogurt will not thicken. It is so simple. No special equipment needed and I have my dream yogurt.
RECIPE
Vietnamese Yogurt
Chua SUA / Da Ua
For yogurt, choose between full fat and low fat or low fat. More fat is there, creamier result. While you can use as much or as little yogurt starter as you want, I have found that when using low fat yogurt, the full cost can seem to work better.
In developing this recipe, I Longevity ("The Old Man") brand of sweetened condensed milk is often used for Vietnamese coffee, Trader Joe's organic low fat yogurt, and Whole Foods organic low fat yogurt. The Old Man Brand (for example) is Borden full of fat and rich tasting and organic yoghurt full of active, lively cultures. The recipe below is akin to what a person in Vietnam would do. For a creamier denser the result of using 1/2 can be less hot water, or substitute milk for room temperature water, as some Vietnamese American chefs do.
If you want to measure the ingredients the way west, a 14-ounce can of condensed milk takes 1 1/3 cups. That means you use between 2/3 and 1 1/3 cups of starter yogurt.
Makes about 6 cups
1 (14 oz) can sweetened condensed milk
2 cans of hot water (boil in a saucepan, let cool for 15 minutes at about 140F, then size)
1 cans of room temperature water
1/2 to 1 can be yogurt without additives, organic kind preferred
1. Take a kettle of water with you to a boil, then reduce heat to keep it warm for as long as you need it for a water bath.
2. Whisk the condensed milk, hot water, and room temperature water together into a bowl. It should be warm. Then whisk into yogurt. Strain through the filter mesh so that it is evenly smooth.
3. Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour yoghurt into clean glass jars, glasses, or plastic containers. Cover with a lid, aluminum foil, or double layer of plastic wrap.
4. Put the yogurt containers in the game high enough to post about 1 inch clearance from the top of the yogurt and the containers to the edge of the pot. Return to the kettle of water to a boil, turn off the heat and wait for the boiling action to subside before pouring it into the water bath pot.
Add just enough boiled water to come just above the yogurt row of your containers. Cover the pot and set aside at room temperature for 5 hours. The yogurt should thicken sourly during this time. Open the container to see. If you want more tart, leave the yogurt in a hot tub for a few hours. I usually stand for 6 hours. Please note that condensation collects:
5. When finished, remove the yogurt from the pot, wipe each dry and cold if not eaten right away. If you wish, drain the liquid, the whey is separated from the yoghurt before eating. Enjoy the sight or with fresh fruits such as berries or sliced bananas or peaches. Holds well for 1 week.
Note:
Also, take a look at whiteonricecouple.com's Vietnamese yogurt recipe posted on Chow.com. It employs condensed milk, whole milk, water and yogurt.
For terrific details on the technical aspects of yogurt making, seehomemade yogurt recipe at 101cookbooks.com
In theory, you can save yogurt on a regular batch, but mine didn't last long enough for me to check out which one! If you try this, please report back the results.
Reviews:
My aunts used yogurt for this when I was a kid and I liked it. They will save baby banks and make a great party for us. I love squeezing some lime juice on top of enhancing the sweet and sour taste of yogurt. The ones I buy at the Eden Center in Virginia aren't nearly as good as the homemade aunts used to make.
Added by: Thrifty DC Cook | August 04, 2009 at 12:41 pm
I haven't had this in yogurt longer! I will definitely do some tonight. You can also freeze it and it does treat well in summer, although if you freeze it for too long, it becomes rock hard. I wonder if you can churn the mixes up the ice cream maker?
And yes, you can definitely save the jar using it in another batch of yogurt, but the more you dilute it (that is, if you don't introduce more live cultures, but just take out the jar to save for the next batch at each time), I believe that it becomes less sharp and doesn't set as well. I would say probably twice the maximum before you have to use fresh yogurt.
Posted by: Kimberley | August 04, 2009 at 12:54 pm
Andrea - Thanks for the informative post! I'm so happy to try it myself. I loved yogurt in Vietnam. Our hotel in Nha Trang served homemade yoghurt in small glass jars and it was the first thing I pounced on breakfast every day. My favorite was a simple variety with a mangosteen (or two) on the side.
What a fantastic recipe! I am definitely going to try this. I always have plain yogurt on hand, but one made with sweetened condensed milk sounds heavenly! A couple of questions, however, in relation to the yogurt starter:
Does it make a difference if I use low fat or low fat instead of all?
How much is "1/2 to 1 can" of plain yogurt - 6oz?
Oh, I can't wait to try this!
Added by: Tangled noodles | August 04, 2009 01:11 PM
Thank you girls. He's kind of kick out to make yogurt.
Tangled noodles, 1/2 to 1 can of plain yogurt is just 2/3 cup in 1 1/3 cup. We are sorry for the confusion. I was able to chat with Viet-chef measurements!
August 04, 2009 01:53 PM
Just made an edit of the recipe rundown (introduction) to clarify the measurement of yogurt!
Excellent! I love the fresh yogurt they have in India - that's to die for. Here yogurt is usually too glop sweet or too sour. I really wanted "Mountain High" plain whole milk yogurt - it's the closest homemade yogurt I've ever found. It is thick and creamy and very good.
August 05, 2009 at 11:12 pm
I have bookmarked several yoghurt recipes, but I was too scared to judge them since they use face yoghurt (which I don’t have) and I don’t think I can keep the temperature consistent for incubation. Another reason to delay making my yogurt attempts is because my husband is not a fan of plain yogurt, but your recipe and instructions sound so easy and delicious! I have to do this next weekend.
August 06, 2009 05:21 AM
Alice: I know the number of people who make yogurt, and no one uses a yogurt maker. People have been making and eating yogurt for thousands of years, not this latest (albeit chic) invention, so fear not!
August 06, 2009 09:14 AM
Straight on, Diana!
Great recipe! I tried it yesterday with peach slices! I would like to try your mother's method, because we are the hot sun here in the mountains of Colorado. I can only do half the recipe at a time because I don't have a lidded pot big enough to hold all the yogurt. If I use the "in the sun" method, do I still need a cover?
| August 08, 2009 01:44 PM
oh my god, just what I was looking for =) I will try and report.
| 10 August 2009 01:06, PM
Mary C., you can also use an earthenware vessel of some kind - maybe a large bowl.But if it's hot right now - and I think it's in Colorado, don't stick around it.
Yes folks, report back on yogurty experiments.
I thought: How about soaking things (lemongrass, ginger, cinnamon) in hot water to make flavored yogurt? My husband thought that simple was good enough, but I will always love to tinker ...
Aug 10, 2009 02:18 PM
Thank you! Yogurt is one of those things where you take for granted they only exist in the markets and not something you can fire up yourself. I didn't know it would be that easy. I made batches and whipped 2% milk into yogurt before sending all the liquid together, and after letting it ferment for 6 hours, it wasn't quite stable, but there was a little liquid texture. But the taste was great and my 3 year old was hooked! Will whole milk be better spent together consistency? Thanks again, I have fun doing it!
Posted by: I can | August 12, 2009 at 12:33 pm
Maybe this style of yogurt is on the liquid yogurt side. Do you replace some water (hot or cold) with milk? Maybe too much liquid.
I thought you could stir a moment of skim milk powder into the mixture - maybe about 1/3 cup to enrich it a little. The use of milk powder in making yoghurt is one of the standard Western practices. So glad to have your report! I appreciate your tinkering.
Hi, I always make yogurt at home and often use my rice cooker for incubation. Sometimes the rice cooker is not big enough and I use the oven instead. Preheat it for 5 minutes, just above 100 degeree Celsius, place the yogurt in a baking tray and leave it there for 6 hours. It also works well.
I found my blog today and I am quite impressed!
Added by: Trang Fam | August 13, 2009 at 07:27 PM
I am fascinated to try this. It sounds great.
Added by: Syrie | August 19, 2009 at 02:32 AM
I've been looking at this recipe since you posted it, Andrea, and finally made some for Friday. Now, two days later, it’s all gone. My husband, son and I devoured him! The yoghurt was fantastic and just like we ate yoghurt in Vietnam when we took our son from there last fall. I'm about to make a second batch, but really wish I had enough containers of a double - or triple - recipe. Thank you very much for your participation!
Posted by: Jessica | August 30, 2009 at 07:56 AM
I made this recipe and it is really good. I have a yogurt maker, so I ended up with an electric yoghurt maker instead of a water bath. A six hour incubation in an electric yogurt kettle is just about right for a balanced sweet / sour combination.
Added by: RB | September 19, 2009 07:36 PM
I will try to make this wonderful yogurt this weekend. Thanks Andrea for this recipe.
etc..
