Kalach Moscow on Soviet technology

[Mosco]

Kalach Moscow on Soviet technology

Category: Yeast bread

Ingredients
high-quality flour (preferably with a part of flour from tv.psh.)	500 g
dry yeast	3 g
salt	6 g
water	350 g

Cooking method

• Briefly, point by point:
• 1. Thoroughly knead the dough until a kolobok, slightly smearing along the bottom, but lagging behind the walls, is formed. The dough should be soft, tender, almost not sticky. Transfer to a fermentation vessel, preferably wide. Leave in a warm place, after lifting, crumple with tightening, leave to rise again.
• 2. When the dough rises a second time, squeeze again and transfer to cold. If the dough rises quickly, knead again. Cold fermentation takes about 3 hours with at least one stirring.
• 3. Take out the dough, divide into portions, begin to shape each piece into a loaf, then make a roll out of it (see description below). Put the kalachi on a baking sheet sprinkled with flour, cover and leave to proof for 30-40 minutes.
• 4. Before planting in the oven, cut the rolls with a sharp knife, sprinkle the inside of the cut with thick flour.
• 5. Bake at t 270 (early) -200 C with steam for 15-20 minutes.

• Moscovskiy kalach in detail

• (based on the materials of the magazine "Soviet Milling and Bakery")
• After kneading, the temperature of the dough should not be higher than 26-29 ° C (lower than the usual bun dough)
• Fermentation of roll dough is carried out at a temperature of 24-26 ° C for 3 - maximum 4.5 hours. During fermentation, the dough is crushed 2 times. Then the dough is taken out of the bowl, cut into pieces of 16-20 kg and taken out “into the cold”, that is, in a cold room with a temperature of 4-10 ° C. In pre-revolutionary Russia, in the warm season, the dough for the rolls was taken out into specially equipped glaciers. Here the dough ferments for 2-3 hours. Every 40 minutes, the spreading dough was kneaded, collecting it from the edges to the center.
• After the dough was ready, it was brought into the room for dividing and shaping in separate portions.
• During molding, pieces of dough were rolled into thick bundles (sausages) with a thickness of about 20 cm. The bundles were cut across to plates 3 - 3.5 cm thick and weighing 220-230 g (depending on the weight of the finished rolls). The weight of the workpieces was checked using a balance. The workpieces were dusted with flour thickly, laid on floured boards and again brought out into the cold. This technique protected the dough from excessive proofing. In the cold, the fermentation processes slowed down and the roll dough retained its properties.
• After all the dough is divided into pieces and brought out into the cold, boards with layers of dough are again brought into the workshop one by one and formed into rolls (without rolling). Forming the rolls without rolling is possible only if the dough is well fermented. If the dough is not ripe enough, roll the blanks for the rolls before shaping.
• Forming:
• A piece of dough is taken with the right hand and slapped with a puck so that an oblong cake is obtained.
• One end of the cake is tucked on both sides with both hands to the middle of the piece. The folded sides are slammed with the palm of the right hand.
• The operation is repeated on the same side of the piece, thus lengthening the workpiece even more.
• The piece turns slightly (upward with the seams), the middle is punched strongly with both hands. A piece along the punched middle breaks in half (lengthwise), the seam obtained from the side is pressed down with your hands.
• After dissolving, the piece is rolled on the table so that a thickening is obtained in the middle, and the ends turn into long thin sausages.
• The ends are connected by themselves and slapped with the palm of the hand to form a roll bow.
• The formed roll is placed on a floured board and left for proofing for 30-40 minutes at a temperature not exceeding 30 ° C.Proofing should be incomplete.
• At the end of the proofing, a longitudinal incision is made on the thickened part of the roll and the cut dough “lip” is turned towards the bow of the roll. The place of the incision is dusted with flour and the lip is returned to its place. The whole roll is somewhat stretched and put into the oven at a temperature of 270-300 ° C. Baking is carried out with intensive steam humidification. The duration of baking rolls weighing 200 g is 10-15 minutes.
• The shape of the finished rolls should be correct, characteristic of this type of product, non-diffuse, without lateral sagging.
• The surface is slightly mealy, without cracks or breaks. At the incision site, the mealy should be very pronounced.
• The color of the crust is pinkish-golden, evenly showing through the mealy, puffiness, excessive pallor and spotting are not allowed.
• The thickness of the upper crust is no more than 1.5 mm, the lower one is no more than 2 mm.
• The largest dimension of the largest pores in the section is no more than 30 mm.
• The crumb is well baked, very elastic (rubbery). High elasticity of the crumb is the leading distinguishing feature of this type of product and the most important indicator of their quality.
• The taste is pleasant, not sour, not salty.
• Kalach must have a "milky" smell, specific to Moscow rolls.
• The moisture content of the crumb is not higher than 46%.
• Specific volume - not less than 2.6 cm3 / g
• Acidity - 1-2оН

Note

The recipe and recommendations are taken from the site Hlebinfo, "Moscow Kalach in details
(based on the materials of the magazine "Soviet Milling and Bakery") ". I strongly advise everyone to try it, it is extremely sensibly written and it is not very difficult to do in reality. I completely followed the description, excluding purely industrial specifics (like, bring it into the cold during cutting) Previously, I have baked rolls according to other recipes and I can say that the cold fermentation used here (as in pre-revolutionary descriptions) really makes a huge difference both in the structure and in the taste of the roll.

Flour was used 80% Extra premium + 20% Italian from durum wheat, for boning - ordinary bakery for general use.
From 500 g of flour, 8 rolls were obtained. My father, who is my expert taster on kalachs - he was the only one who had time to catch them real, said that the size came out a little less than the original. But the taste is the same! and really delicious just with butter The crust is thin, crispy, the crumb is elastic and fluffy at the same time, evenly perforated. And the handle is like a dryer, but not so hard

this was the first attempt
The shape will still have to be worked on, the lip should be cut higher and deeper and sprinkled VERY thickly with flour, lightly rubbing it into the dough. In three out of 8 rolls, it almost merged with the tummy when baking. I also realized that the handle needs to be stretched even more, since the main increase in volume does not occur during proofing, but already in the oven, and accordingly the opening decreases
This is how my kalachiki looked immediately after molding (during the proofing process they increased, but not much):


it's from the oven


but this is how the rolls turned out on the second attempt, taking into account all the flaws of the first:






It is also important to cover the products when proofing, this is not mentioned in the text and I left it that way at first, but after 20 minutes I realized that the surface of the dough was getting noticeably windy, which interferes with the rise, I had to spray it with water. I used less flour for cutting than suggested in the recipe - the ripened dough is not sticky at all, very pleasant to work with.

I set the oven temperature to 270 when heated, five minutes after planting the rolls in the oven, reduced it to 200, but my oven is electric, that is, it has some inertia. With gas, you probably need to be a little different, but in any case, you need to plant rolls, as stated in the recipe, in a very hot oven! they grow beautifully there, literally before our eyes. Baked for 20 minutes exactly.

Have a nice tea party with a Moscow kalach!

[Serenity]

Serenity, oh how chubby he is!

[Masinen]

Masinen, yeah, right inflate when baked, like airships

I will definitely try to bake your kolachi too)
thanks for the recipe!

[Masinen]

Masinen, to your health! I myself am very glad that I found this recipe, at last we got something that looks like a real Moscow roll. And then I heard a lot about them, already since childhood

Yes, it is very similar to a real kalach. Real rolls were served instead of bread in the restaurant of the Central House of Journalists, so we loved to be there, precisely because of these unique rolls ... And how beautiful they were there! White, unburned, sprinkled with flour ...
I don't know if I will dare to try to repeat it myself, for me it is difficult. Moreover, the description of the molding is not very clear: "One end cakes tuck on both sides with both hands "...

[TATbRHA]

TATbRHA, I mean, the edges are wrapped inward, as when forming a loaf. Do not be afraid, in fact, the process is not very difficult, it only takes a lot of time, it is necessary to be at home all day almost to be near this test

Being at home is not a problem, but the problem is that I, like Sokol Khabibulin in Valery Nikitin's song, "Remember, Sokol: Sokol, you are a ram!"
We must somehow make up our minds, or something ... Bread is absolutely unique, exotic, historical! Do you know why they were made with a pen? Because Muscovites bought and ate them right on the street, still warm, holding this handle, and since their hands on the street are not too clean, they did not eat the pen itself, but gave it to the beggars or the dogs, and from there the idiom: "reached the pen." , that is, it has completely slipped ... And the "grated roll" is also from the process of making these Moscow rolls.

[Serenity]

Serenity, Olga, but you can have a photo of the molding, or at least diagrams (drawings), otherwise I didn’t understand how to roll up, roll up, punch, slap

[Olga VB]

Olga VB, there are no pictures, somehow I can't take and take pictures at the same time
the scheme is as follows:
stretch a piece of dough into an oval,
fold it along almost in half, close the seam,
we repeat again,
fold across, close up the side seams, it turns out a sausage,
we roll the sausage on the table several times, pressing not on the middle, but on the ends, and stretching slightly, - we get a spindle,
we connect the ends of the spindle, it turns out a roll

[TATbRHA]

TATbRHA, make up your mind, decide it's interesting.

[Serenity]

Serenity, class, one more ball! I already baked a Moscow recipe according to the Omelin recipe, it was very good. Now I will try to bake according to yours, you have a slightly different technology, it will be interesting to compare the result.

And I did not understand where to make an incision. Rather, I realized that it was somewhere on the side. Right?

[kirch]

kirchon the contrary, from above, almost in the center of the tummy. When the roll is inflated during baking, the cut seems to go sideways. My cut is too low, I will fix it!

[SvetaI]

SvetaI, I also baked according to her recipe, well, but not quite right - the dough, during prolonged fermentation in the heat, acquires sourness, which should not be in the roll. The peculiarity of the kalalnaya technology is precisely the combination of not very long fermentation in warm and cold conditions and incomplete proofing

the dough becomes sour during prolonged fermentation in the heat

No, there is no sourness in Omelka's rolls, I strongly dislike acid in wheat bread and always smell it. It does not have time to turn sour in 12 hours, I have a lot of recipes for such baking, with 12 and even 24 hour pulshes, it was normal. Maybe my kitchen is cool or dry yeast is not so thermonuclear.
But I will definitely try your technology, although it is very inconvenient for a working woman - the rolls will only be ripe for dinner, but I need it for Saturday lunch.

[SvetaI]

SvetaI, yes, it turns out almost for a day! well, or get up at 4 in the morning, with cocks

with roosters

We have no roosters, the crows only caw, exactly at six o'clock, at the beginning of the seventh. And this is too late, my roll will not ripen
To be honest, I would have stood up, but I'm afraid the family won't appreciate it, even for such a tasty treat. But I will have a royal dinner (if everything works out)

A very cute little roll I would like to bake, but I sit and think - if I could grow another hand to stretch and twist with the two existing ones, and during the "stretch and twist" the third still have time to let go of the flip flops But seriously, I would like to have pictures of this process helped a lot

On YouTube: Honest bread / 12th issue / Moscow kalach
Around the middle of the video, the roll is shown:

[ELa_ru]

ELa_ru, Thank you! they bake according to the same recipe and everything is shown very clearly. The only thing, they overexposed the rolls a little, they came out too tanned
And so I myself did not finish (the description does not say the same) before rolling the handle on the table, pinching it together, but rolling is much more convenient and the shape is better than it is brilliant!

... they overexposed the rolls a little, they came out too tanned

Well yes. In the video, the rolls were overexposed.
And in the magazine Maria Kudryashova (lunetta_mama) has excellent rolls.

MOSCOW KALACHI. MOSCOW-STYLE KALACH:
🔗

[ELa_ru]

ELa_ru, oh, handsome men!

Well, the work on the errors was successful.



cool down, take a picture of the incision.

incision

[Olga VB]

Olga VB, there are no pictures, somehow I can't take and take pictures at the same time
the scheme is as follows:
stretch a piece of dough into an oval,
fold it along almost in half, close the seam,
we repeat again,
fold across, close up the side seams, it turns out a sausage,
we roll the sausage on the table several times, pressing not on the middle, but on the ends, and stretching slightly, - we get a spindle,
we connect the ends of the spindle, it turns out a roll

I saw exactly these actions this summer on the kitchen channel. tv Having looked at these miracles, I realized that I can't do this in the near future: the oven (ZVI 417 stove) fries as it pleases.

[I am beautifull]

I am beautifull, this bread needs a hot oven and steam, and the whole point is in fermentation

now, in daylight, the cut is better visible

[Olga]

Olga, take the report!

I started fussing around at half past seven in the morning. At 9.15 she put the dough for proofing - for 3 hours at 27 degrees. Then the dough went to the balcony for 2.5 hours (10 degrees), then molding, final proofing, baking and at 15.10 already pulled out the handsome men. Total 6 hours.
The result is delicious, aromatic. A bit bland for my taste (it seems to me that the roll should be a little salty), but that's what anyone likes.
In general, not so scary, I recommend it to everyone!

[SvetaI]

SvetaI, excellent rolls turned out!
agree - a little troublesome, but not so difficult