Large roll with rye sourdough

Large roll with rye sourdough

Category: Sourdough bread

Kitchen: Russian

Ingredients
wheat flour 1 grade	250g
durum wheat flour	250g
rye sourdough 100% moisture	150g
dry yeast	2g
water	280-300g
salt	10g

Cooking method

• This is my attempt to reconstruct the recipe for the famous Russian large roll, based on several recipes and my own historical and culinary research of the topic.
• Based on my research and on the basis of my conclusions, I used durum wheat flour in one roll and durum semolina in the second. Kalach is prepared using active rye sourdough in a non-steam way. On the eve, renew the rye starter with 100% moisture. Add all the ingredients except the salt to the bowl and knead for 5 minutes at speed 1, 10 minutes at speed 3, add salt and knead for 5 minutes at speed 4. In the variant with semolina, instead of 250g of durum flour, take 150g of durum semolina (semolina or semolina) and 100g of 1st grade flour. The dough comes off well from the bottom and walls, but sticks a little to the hands. Let it come up under the foil in a warm place for 3 hours, stretch-fold twice every hour. Form into a ball and transfer to the refrigerator for another 3 hours, stretch-fold twice every hour. Remove from the refrigerator, divide into 2 parts (each about 420g). Here is the dough after kneading, after 3 hours of "warm" fermentation, after 3 hours of "cold" fortification, and when cut:
• 
• Each part, without warming, flatten into a thick cake and form into a "spindle", folded into a roll and rolled out the ends. Connect the ends together, forming a "lock":
• 
• Put on the final partial proofing in a warm place with steam for 45 - 50 minutes. Heat the oven to 250 * C with steam. Make a deep cut in the "tongue" and bake for the first 18-20 minutes with steam, then reduce T to 200 * C and bake for about 20-25 minutes until tender.
• 
• The crust is thin and crispy, the crumb is elastic and porous. Here is a cut of a roll with semolina and durum flour:
• 

Note

While preparing this recipe, I discovered amazing information. Perhaps it will be interesting for others as well. Kalachi have been mentioned since the XIII-XIV centuries. Depending on the recipe and cooking technology, the rolls were divided into grainy, mixed, grated, Murom, Moscow, scalded and others. But the one thing for all rolls was that they were baked not from rye or spelled flour, but from wheat. Whereas rye sour bread was the usual Russian bread. But it turned out that the wheat growing in the Volga region and the Don steppes, from which or with a large admixture of which the kalach was prepared, was predominantly hard-grain. In the steppe zone, in particular, the arnaut wheat grew (arnauts in Russia were called the Greeks and Albanians), which loved dry and warm soil. The spring hard glassy wheat arnautka (in Russian it was called "gornovka", white turkey, Kubanka) was distinguished by a high content of protein and klekovina. Milled into flour, it retained its coarseness, which is why it was named "gritty". At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, the best and most popular durum wheat for the production of Italian pasta came to Italy from Russia. Since it was transported through the Taganrog port, it was called Taganrog. There was even a special variety, Pasta Taganrog, a southern Russian variety of durum wheat, which the Italians themselves considered unrivaled for making pasta. But soft wheat was grown a little and it cost more than hard varieties.
The opinion of M.Syrnikov, based on the Explanatory Dictionary of the Russian language by S. Ozhegov, that: "Krupchatka is an established Russian name for finely ground wheat flour", that is, it is the highest grade flour according to the modern classification. However, S. Ozhegov, not being an expert in the field of grain crops, simply omitted the mention that it was made from hard wheat, not soft wheat, which is very important from the point of view of baking. While studying earlier dictionaries and data, I came across a juxtaposition of two main categories of flour, grainy and wheat ("Dictionary of the Russian Academy" (1792), S. V. Maksimov "Culture of bread and its adventures" (1873)). Moreover, both had several varieties, depending on the ash content and fineness of grinding. But it was different torment. And indeed, given that the kalach had such a peculiar shape (in the form of a lock with a handle) precisely because it was intended for consumption by the low and middle strata of the population, it is impossible to assume that the kalach was prepared from very expensive very finely ground wheat flour. But the average grinding (like modern flour 1-2 grades or semolina) could well be used. Such grinding of durum wheat (grit) was much cheaper in production, did not cake for a long time and could be delivered to all parts of Russia. Therefore, the use of durum wheat semolina seems to be quite justified. The shape of the roll was determined by the fact that the working population could use the roll right during a short break in work, holding the roll by the "handle" with dirty hands. The "pen" was then given to the poor or fed to animals. In Russia, unlike Europe, everything was fine with social hygiene at least until the beginning of the 20th century. And the expression “to reach the pen” meant to become a beggar, to sink to the very bottom, when there was only free “pens” left to eat.
In addition, the difference between Russian rolls was that they were prepared with rye sourdough and with obligatory cold fermentation. This, together with repeated "friction" (an analogue of the modern stretch-fold), simultaneously imparted sweetness, elasticity and high porosity to the crumb. In general, while studying the peculiarity of the technology of making Russian rolls, I found a lot in common with the technology of making a French baguette with sourdough. Considering the time of the appearance of these products (kalach - at least from the 13th century, baguette - from 1920) and the socio-political migration of Russian specialists to France after the events of 1917, the conclusion suggests itself.
The combination of durum wheat flour or semolina (much richer in nutrients than premium soft wheat flour) with rye sourdough significantly increases the usefulness of this product in comparison with a product made from premium flour.

Linochka, and I am the first to your roll! Can I take off the lock loop? You're doing fine! Kept my promise. I said I will! And she did! Thank you for the wonderful recipe.

Thank you, Luda! I learned so many interesting things, I'm very happy!

Thank you, how interesting!

Lina, what material have you dug up, clever girl! I read everything with great pleasure. Thank you very much! How interesting everything is and what a pity that we do not know the story. I read somewhere that we brought frozen bread to France, where it was cooked and sold. He was in great demand. I need to look for this information. I need to copy the children, they love this story.

Lina, while I was reading the historical excursion, I forgot where I started! What a clever girl you are, so much I learn from you the most useful and interesting! And the kalach is a miracle, in the gazebo they have already eaten it all, and they did not leave it for me in the morning, that's swallowed!

Lush balls! And the information is also entertaining .. In my opinion, in some program I watched about rolls "with handles" (probably "Food of the Gods") - at least I learned what it means to "reach the handle"
I here, too, baked other rolls yesterday, of course, probably I'll post it too ..

[Linadoc]

Linadoc, Lina, what wonderful rolls! I learned so much useful, thank you for the story.

[Lina]

Cool rolls, Lina! Special thanks for the information! I always knew that I was born in a great country. And we are all so generous - we give ideas left and right!

Cool rolls, Lina! Special thanks for the information! I always knew that I was born in a great country. And we are all so generous - we give ideas left and right!
Report an error, clarification or violation

[Linadoc]

Linadocthanks for your research !! Such facts are expensive, especially in disputes with some gentlemen, they will be useful to me! We adore Kalachi!

Lina, beautiful and tempting master class I'm going to bake rolls. I have a very anxious childhood memory. I loved buying these rolls. And then they once stopped being sold.

[Linadoc]

Linadoc,
How I love recipes with history and searches! Thank you, I got real satisfaction while reading
I haven't eaten Kalachi yet, but the photo is very good. seductive. And there is grain, bought for the pasta ...

[Linadoc]

Linadocwhat a wonderful study! I once became addicted to Omelkin
Kalach Moscow (according to an old recipe) (Omela), and then there's such a recipe! All the ingredients are there, you have to bake.
How does it taste? Are the sourness and rye strong?

[Albina]

Albina, Olya, MariS, Tonya, Anna in the Forest, Marina, Lena kadiewa, Svetlana, Irina, Anna, THANKS, girls for your attention to the recipe!
She herself studied it all with such interest! And frozen rolls were actually taken to Paris in the 19th century. Everything is terribly interesting! I never expected that durum wheat was the most widespread in Russia before the events of 1917 and that we supplied Europe and America with them!
And the kalachiki turned out to be excellent, a slight sourness is caught, but in moderation, rye flour only enriches the taste, but does not feel much. And they are so delicious, on the second day with cheese and butter it will fly away. The main thing is that everything is simple and without much straining - just stretch the fold every hour, but the molding, and so delicious!

An interesting selection. I didn’t bake the rolls myself, because I don’t dare to knead. I have the following information: “It took a lot of time and effort to make a Russian roll. To make the product magnificent, the flour was sifted several times, and the dough was kneaded for several hours, chopped (or, as they used to say,“ rubbed ”) and kneaded again. Since then, the expression "grated roll" has remained in the language, which means a roll of chopped dough. The sign of the quality of the roll was elasticity: if squeezed, it quickly returns to its previous shape ... "
And yet, is it possible to bake wheat bread on rye sourdough? it used to be considered flour for flour. Sorry, but I have a purely scientific interest.

Wow: "to reach the handle", a very curious story! Thank you, Lina! I liked the rolls.

But is it possible to bake wheat bread on rye leaven?

Anyway, I found such information. Did it based on this information and just logical reasoning. The result pleased me, I will definitely repeat it.

I liked the rolls

Thank you, Oksana! Itself with great interest dug into the information, even climbed into some Tatar sources.

Last weekend I was in Kolomna near Moscow, I visited the "Museum of Rollers" and "Museum of Pastila". In the "Museum of Kalach" a theatrical excursion into the history of the roll is shown, they show how it was "rubbed", not chopped, but rolled on the cooled surface of the table (ice was put in a box under the tabletop), hop sourdough was used, flour of two types, grit is really very similar on small yellow semolina,
it was grains, the flour was not mixed, but poured into the chest in layers, then we were treated to hot rolls and tea. A very interesting excursion-performance.

[Hope]

Hope, so I also found such information that they used not one type of flour, but 2-3 flour, and a type of semolina. This is justified, because it then greatly reduced the price of the product, and yet it was for the poor and middle strata. But the rye sourdough was indicated as a feature of the rolls.Hop sourdough can be a variant of rye sourdough.

[Linadoc]

Linadoc, thanks for the historical recipe it turned out great!

It was very, very interesting to read it !!! Thank you so much! I knew that grit is not just flour! (If I'm not mistaken, it is often mentioned in recipes in the pre-revolutionary book for young housewives E. Molokhovets) I have a question: was there a difference in the dough and taste between a roll of flour from tv varieties of wheat and a ball of semolina from TV. wheat varieties, if so, which one is tastier?

was there a difference in dough and taste between a roll of flour from tv. varieties of wheat and a ball of semolina from TV. wheat varieties, if so, which one is tastier?

They taste the same, but I liked the semolina better, it is somehow fluffier and more elastic.

[Linadoc]

Linadoc, thanks for the answer and Hurray! Since I only have a semolina from TV. wheat and found)

[Linadoc]

Linadoc, take the report. Here are my handsome men

A little missed
I had 1st grade flour, durum semolina and gritty flour. Well, and eternal rye leaven.
The gingerbread man was really quite sticky at first, but after all the stretching and folding it became absolutely lovely, soft and obedient.
To be honest, I didn't really like the taste - I don't like the sourness in wheat bread. But this does not detract from the merits of the recipe, everyone has different preferences and I am sure that many will appreciate this particular folk, "rustic" taste.
Thank you so much for the recipe and research, it was very interesting to read and it is impossible not to try to bake!

[Svetlana]

Svetlana, Well done! Handsome! And happy birthday! I wish you a lot of delicious and interesting bread!

Linochka is clever in all respects. Kalachi. I used to bake rolls before, but it was all on a whim, not quite what I needed. And this recipe is just super! I'll try to bake it today. I have a strong leaven, all the time trying to escape. So we need to reduce it. Thanks for the recipe and history.

Lina, the dough is right. I have another 7 hours to clear up one question. If we are proving in a warm place, then this is about 30 grams. Celsius. But steam is generated at temperatures above 100 degrees. How to be?

But steam is generated at temperatures above 100 degrees.

Natasha, so I put it in a warm oven, and a frying pan with boiling water down. It evaporates and is humid there, and after 30 minutes I pour new boiling water.

Hello! Here is my kalachik: 350 premium wheat flour and 100 semolina. Of course, we still have to work and work on the appearance, but the taste, to be honest, is magical! Thank you very much for the recipe.

[Katerina]

Katerina, excellent result! And the appearance will tighten up after a couple of roll calls. Pekies for health!