DJ
I looked with a search, I did not find such a topic.
Please tell me how to choose the right hood for the kitchen?
What to look for? We have our own house. Kitchen 16 sq. m.
ALTI
First, multiply your area by height --- the resulting volume is "nominal" PRODUCTIVITY hoods for your kitchen (not to be confused with power). It is better to buy a little more than the nominal value so that the hood does not work at "maximum" modes, so it makes less noise and "lives" longer.
Appearance and way of embedding - your preferences, there is a huge choice here.
A very important question is where the exhaust air will be "DIVIDED". It is very "desirable" to directly "on the street", and not in the "common house" ventilation duct.
This topic is actually quite "extensive", there are a lot of all kinds of "nuances", and if you touch on each, you get a "mini-story".
DJ
We bought a hood, with a charcoal filter, until summer comes outside without hood, we will definitely make it outside, because there’s no point in it, we still have to open the window. There is a kettle next to the hood, and when the steam pushes, the hood does not draw, only if you put it directly under the hood, only then.




ELECTRIC AIR CLEANER HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIED. The device is intended for cleaning the air in the kitchen from harmful products of incomplete combustion of gas in stove burners, particles of fat, soot and soot formed during cooking, as well as to reduce the unpleasant smell of burnt food in the room. The air cleaner is built into a set of kitchen furniture or is attached directly to the wall with brackets and brackets above gas or electric stoves at a height of 700-900 mm from their surface. This height is optimal for ensuring normal temperature conditions, apparatus, effective air purification and convenience of working on the stove.

The air purifier BEV-1 has a housing with a built-in ventilation system, which provides an intensive exchange of air in the kitchen in the absence of drafts. The bottom of the body is closed with a lid with an aerosol filter that cleans the air from suspended particles of soot, grease, etc., inside the body there is a germicidal mercury-quartz lamp (source of ultraviolet radiation), lighting lamps with a power of 25-60 W and a control unit. Above the germicidal lamp in the upper part of the body there are two cassettes with a sorbent-catalyst for gas cleaning of air. The front part of the case is covered with a decorative panel on which the control unit keys are located. A retractable visor on the front side of the device in the open position serves as an intake of polluted air rising from the stove, while the area of ​​the inlet to the device of the cleaned air increases.

Aerosols and mechanical impurities sucked by the fan together with air from the over-tile space settle on the filtering material (aerosol filter), then, when blown through the sorbent catalyst (activated carbon or aluminosilicate), gas purification of the air occurs, and when the bactericidal lamp is on, it is sterilized. The purified air is returned to the kitchen area. Thanks to the active air circulation created by the air cleaner fan, the heat in the kitchen is evenly distributed, which prevents steam from condensing on the walls. To achieve the greatest effect of air purification, it is recommended to leave the air cleaner turned on for 20-30 minutes after the end of cooking with the germicidal lamp turned off with periodic monitoring of its operation.

When using the air purifier, do not leave the gas burners on, if they are not cooking food, in order to avoid damage to the filter material, paintwork and plastic parts, as well as general overheating of the device. To avoid eye burns, do not look at the open, switched on germicidal lamp (with the bottom cover of the air cleaner removed).

Air cleaner filters must be cleaned at least once every 6 months 417 (preferably in a workshop) from the substances deposited on them. If necessary, this can be done at home. To do this, remove the cover of the air cleaner, remove the filter, soak it in a solution of detergent for synthetic fabrics for 2-3 hours, rinse thoroughly without twisting, wring it out, dry it on a cloth that absorbs moisture, and put it back. To regenerate the catalyst sorbent (aluminosilicate), it must be poured out of plastic cassettes onto a cleanly washed and dried baking sheet and heated on the middle shelf of the oven for 3–3.5 hours at a temperature of 250–300 ° C.

When the sorbent is heated, a strong unpleasant but harmless odor is emitted, therefore it is warmed up with an open window in the kitchen and a closed door (at least during the first hour). The processed sorbent is again poured into cassettes and installed in the air cleaner. The activated carbon used as a sorbent is replaced with a new one after the expiration date.

Air cleaner BEV-1 (without sorbent) has a weight of 20 kg, dimensions 605X X 550X180 mm. Power consumption 200 W; air capacity b 130 m3 / h; designed for 220 V.
ALTI
Indeed, carbon filters significantly reduce the performance of the hood, and they require "regular" replacement with new ones, only in your case, with a direct air duct "outside" put a "check valve", "closer to the street" in order to avoid "back draft", especially in winter.
It is advisable to make the ventilation duct from a "flat box" with a section of 200 x 60 mm, which in the "section" fits the diameter of the "branch pipe" of the hood 150 mm. For the price, such an installation is certainly "not cheap", but in operation it is one of the best --- it does not create "extra" turbulence for the air flow, and the corrugated pipes "noisy" much less and, which is important, it easily hides into the "suspended ceiling".
With a ceiling height of 3m. Your hood should have a capacity of 500 m / cu. in hour without carbon filters (provided that your kitchen is a "separate" room, that is, it does not "communicate" with neighboring rooms.
pradovod
also now concerned about the choice
dining room kitchen (26 sq. m., volume 70 cubic meters), in the apartment, it is the living room.
ALTI
All in all, it is quite suitable for your kitchen. I can say nothing about the "brand" --- until I "fell" into my hands, the main thing is what you like. If the manufacturer has a GOOD service, then you can take it, if you "weakly" look for an "analogue" in other brands, the main thing when installing "such" hoods is to maintain the "recommended" mounting height and not "narrow" the outlet ventilation duct.
You also need to take into account one "small" nuance --- "ensure" the SUPPLY of air into the room instead of the air removed by the hood, otherwise a vacuum will be created and the hood will again work "not at full strength".
Well, for a "snack" to the above:
A lot of "surprises" arise during the INSTALLATION of hoods, including yours.
If the "repair" in the kitchen has already been done, then in the presence of "near-ceiling" "friezes" there will be a need to "trim" these for the "box" and "some" manipulations with the installation of the "bracket" for fastening the box and the second: the plane (wall) on which it is mounted The hood should preferably not have a "drop" with the kitchen "apron", or the apron will only reach the hood, and in this case "architectural-design-constructive friction" occurs, but they can also be solved with some "compromises".
Successful acquisition!
Sofim
Who has the hood that goes directly to the street? That is, the wall in the house was broken? In order to bring me into the ventilation duct, the riser of the house, you have to pull through two walls or lower the ceiling and place a pipe behind it. Closer is the wall of the house, I want to break it and bring it out into the street.But builders dissuade, such as in winter there will be a lot of condensation from the collision of warm and cold air, which will not know where it will flow .. although this method is becoming popular, I often see grates from hoods on houses. Who knows what?
Sofim
Advise a hood .. like the domes are quieter, but somehow the built-in closet is closer to me - only a strip ..
Boo Boo
Quote: Sofim

But builders are discouraging, like in winter there will be a lot of condensation from the collision of warm and cold air, which will flow to nowhere.
Be careful with condensation. We have a balcony attached to the kitchen. A metal visor overlooking the street is attached to the balcony ceiling. Huge drops hang on it in winter, now we don't know what to do with it. For the second year now, for this reason, we have not repaired the ceiling on the balcony.
Sofim
If we open the door to a closed balcony in winter, then all the glasses fog up and probably not only glass - this is a natural process .. only in the hoods it seems that if done correctly, it drips out .. I still don’t see the way out, I don’t want to lower the ceiling, through pulling two walls to the strap is also ...
lega
Quote: Sofim

to pull through two walls to the strangler - too ..
Don't have a ventilation duct in your kitchen? Did you rebuild something yourself or did the builders do it like that?
Sofim
There is a ventilation duct - I called it a strangler .. it is diagonally from the stove .. I don’t want to pull through two walls or the ceiling .. but the street is close ..
torturesru
In winter, will not the cold shove from there? All the same, straight air into the street. Although, if you put a check valve ... But punching a hole in the main wall will not be cheap.
Sofim
The wall was broken through, a check valve was installed, but the hood has not yet been connected. It is not expensive - 350 UAH for breaking through a wall, installing a plastic pipe, a check valve inside a plastic pipe, blowing with foam, putty with a solution. Even for materials, everything with a pipe that will go to the hood - up to UAH 200. The valve works only for the exit, it should not be cold in winter - let's see
Gypsy
People, tell me how critical it is if the gas stove is 70cm, and the hood is 60cm. Or do you need a 90cm hood anyway? Thank you
I just can't decide which stove to take 60 or 70, I like both But if I choose 70cm, and you only need 90cm of the hood to it, then I will have to change the upper cabinets .. and this is serious, my whole beautiful landscape will go
Kapet
Changing cabinets because of the hood is certainly not serious. By the way, I also like wide slabs - if my kitchen was a little bigger - I would take 90 cm.
It seems to me that if you take a sufficiently powerful hood, it will "stretch" your stove. Just hang it higher than usual, anywhere from 75 cm to 80 cm from the surface of the stove.
I have a partially similar problem: the stove is 60 cm, and the hood is 60 cm, but the heating pipes are laid behind the plate, so the stove "sticks out" for the hood by 10 centimeters. But nothing, - I took FALMEC MIMOSA 60, power: 600 m3 / h ., everything pulls out perfectly ...
Gypsy
Kapet, thanks for the advice I sculpt in the ikeev program, and there the hood itself automatically sticks, I don't know at what height. Here you can see that it is below the wall cabinets.
How to choose a cooker hood

Top view, you can see that the plate is wider than the hood (no. 10)
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/r-image/s59.r.1/i166/1010/8c/72e01a770b99.jpg
Gypsy
I continue to think, but there is no time for that. This is how a 60cm hood and a 90cm hood looks in my virtual kitchen in Ikeev's prog, by the way, why are there no intermediate options? or so only in Israel. Again, my two favorite options are 60cm slab and 70cm slab.
How to choose a cooker hood

I really like this kind of hood, it is only 60 cm.
https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/r-image/s55.r.1/i147/1010/55/5f0c36094f7a.jpg
What to do then, buy a wide stove and put on a 60 cm hood or buy a 60 stove and 60 cm hood, or put a wide stove and select another hood for 90 .. I already feel bad from myself
lega
Quote: gypsy


What to do then, buy a wide stove and put on a 60 cm hood or buy a 60 stove and 60 cm hood, or put a wide stove and select another hood for 90 .. I already feel bad from myself

In my personal experience, the hood should be at least 90cm. If the upper shelves are close to the stove, then you constantly have to wash off greasy splashes, and this is not the most pleasant experience. I now have a 60cm stove, 90cm hood. Even with this distance, you have to wash the side walls.In an old apartment, a stove of 50 cm, a hood of 60 cm is horror. The bottom of the hinged shelves is pretty dirty. And the capturing screen at the hood is better rounded (like a parachute), it is much more efficient to capture odors and steam.
Mila007
Gypsy, I have a stove and a hood of 60 cm. It looks very nice and, in my opinion, a hood of 60 cm is enough. The shelves hang at a height of about 60 cm. They do not get dirty with me. It's up to you to decide. And at the expense of extracting odors, it already depends on the hood itself. Its power.

#
Gypsy
Thank you. I have one more problem, as soon as I put in the hood 90, so for good it is necessary to clean the upper cabinets. It will turn out ugly, since I have a slit-like window, I tied the cabinets with this window more symmetrically, if you cut it off on one side, then you immediately need to cut off the cabinets and on the other hand .. it will turn out fig and nifiga cabinets, and the kitchen is not big anyway. By the way, in the ikeev program everything seems so big .. and you take a centimeter tape, and there these 70 cm from the stove to the sink are like my computer table .. all in all I will probably have to take a 60 cm stove and calm down, otherwise I'll ruin the whole thing out of my greed hard-won design

The hood that I like is 60cm, power 890
Cvetaal
And I have a built-in hood Faber, 60 cm,
with retractable glass visor. I love. 🔗
Gypsy
Cvetaal, your stove is not gas, it seems like a fatty gas in itself, smokes. I looked at similar hoods, but I don't know if they have, how to say it, the outlet of air to the street, we have the opportunity to make a hole in the wall to draw it out into the street.
Cvetaal
Mine goes out into the ventilation duct, just like non-recessed ones, so you can go outside
Kapet
Quote: gypsy

People, tell me how critical it is if the gas stove is 70cm, and the hood is 60cm. Or do you need a 90cm hood anyway? Thank you
I just can't decide which stove to take 60 or 70, I like both But if I choose 70 cm, and you only need 90 cm of the hood to it, then I will have to change the upper cabinets .. and this is serious, my whole beautiful landscape will go
Perhaps hoods of similar design are suitable for your case:
How to choose a cooker hood
How to choose a cooker hood
In theory, such a hood, provided that it has a capacity of at least 600 m3 / hour, should be the same as 60 cm or 70 cm.
Gypsy
All, Kapet, I decided to listen to my mind and buy a 60 cm stove, since I cook on a maximum of two stoves. To her hood, the one that showed 60 cm and truncated
And I also looked after such an oblique hood even at the beginning, when the gas. I wanted to install the stove on the opposite side of the window, not as steep as in your photos, but the meaning is the same:
How to choose a cooker hood
Kapet
I bought a Falmec Mimosa (goffrato) hood a month ago, 60 cm, 600 m3 / hour
How to choose a cooker hood

I really wanted something like a domed country, with a tree. I was very impressed with the quality - that the packaging, that the product itself, there is simply nothing to complain about, the Italians rule

I have a question for the owners of such hoods, where the bottom is made of wood: do you have any problems with cleaning the bottom wooden surface from soot, etc., and how do you clean it? And in general, - as it is in long-term use in terms of deterioration in appearance from cleaning. Perhaps this is not a problem at all, but perhaps you just need to adhere to certain rules for the operation of such "wooden" hoods ...?

PS. By the way, if anyone needs it, I can sell (Kiev) carbon filters from this hood, which came in the kit, as unnecessary, because I brought the ventilation duct outside.
oxotnik-t
Hello. I have a kitchen of 12.3 square meters, with a ceiling height of 2.7. Tell me if the Smeg KSET 910X hood is suitable in terms of performance, if someone has one, then share your reviews, there is practically nothing about it on the internet.
Aunt Besya
Having decided on the dishwasher, I now crawled here! , once again thanks to our forum for the abundance of information and responsiveness of members of the forum!

With technical questions, oh, how bad I am ... I’ve been hanging on the net that day, staring at the hoods and I just can’t figure out what to look at. I really count on the help of the audience

Now I have a classic hood in recirculation mode, hanging at a height of 85 cm.from the stove (electric), and the distance from the lower edge of the hood to the ventilation hole is 60 cm. I will not take the hood out into the street (it is far from the outer wall), I will again bring it into the ventilation system of the house. The slab in perspective will be 60 cm wide.
I look at chimney-type hoods with wall mounting, but I just can't figure out how they are attached. or rather, what place? Is the hood itself attached or is that rectangular box that goes to the ventilation?
The boxes are telescopic almost everywhere, as I understand it, the length of the box varies within some limits (the inner part of the box moves out and slides into the outer box, if necessary).
Now my hood hangs IMHO too high, I should lower the centimeters by 10-15, in total it turns out that from the edge to the ventilation will be 70-75 cm.
I correctly think that I need to look for a hood so that the height is at least 70 cm.
I've seen this How to choose a cooker hood
Width, mm: 600

Black colour

Min. noise level, dB: 32

Max. capacity, (m3 / h) *: 756

Number of motors: 1 x 230 W

Operating modes: diversion / recirculation

Lighting: halogen 2x20 W

Control: touch

Number of grease filters: 1

Number of speeds: 3

Auto-off timer: 15 minutes

Grease filter clogging indicator: yes

Duct diameter (mm): 120

Carbon filter type: KLS (not included)

Country of origin: Italy

Warranty: 1 year

Brand: KRONASTEEL

Installation diagram:How to choose a cooker hood

I just can't understand, does it fit me in height or not? Does anyone understand something about this?
Rita
Aunt Besya, I do not know what edge you meant, but from the very bottom to the very top with the maximum elongated pipe, this hood can be almost one and a half meters long - 1490mm. That is, with a height of 2.30 m half-heads, its lowest location can be 2.3-1.49 = 0.81 m. And the highest is 2.3-1.02 = 1.28m. I mean the bottom edge of the hood.
Aunt Besya
Quote: Rita

Aunt Besya, I do not know what edge you meant, but from the very bottom to the very top with the maximum elongated pipe, this hood can be almost one and a half meters long - 1490mm. That is, with a height of 2.30 m half-heads, its lowest location can be 2.3-1.49 = 0.81 m. And the highest is 2.3-1.02 = 1.28m. I mean the bottom edge of the hood.
I was confused by the second picture there. judging by it, the pipe may not be used at all, but instead of it a corrugation of any length, or is there something I don't understand?
sazalexter, Sasha, thanks! I'll see! I like the inclined design and it is not tied to the width of the slab, which is captivating, because, as I understand it, the air entrapment goes along the perimeter
sazalexter
Quote: Aunt Besya

I was confused by the second picture there. judging by it, the pipe may not be used at all, but instead of it a corrugation of any length, or is there something I don't understand?
Yes that's right, you can use the corrugation
Svetlana201
Aunt Basya, do not take Krona (Simona 900 was), I just got rid of such a hood, they lie about the noise in the instructions, it pulls badly, she was taken out into the ventilation box, bought it in December -2010, and now I happily replaced it to another Hotpoint Ariston HKQV 9K / HA- - the advantages are immediately visible - 1) pulls out super (although we did not connect it to the branch channel, but we use it through the charcoal filter that came with the kit and which can be washed and replaced only after 3 years), we now freeze in the kitchen and we have to close the door when the hood is on, 2) it makes much less noise than Crohn, and 3) the most important thing in my opinion is to wash it VERY VERY simple - there is all glass and it washes away all the dirt and grease without the slightest difficulty, and in Krone I was tormented to scrub the fat off the stainless steel both inside and out, but here everything is done for people - always beautiful and clean. I was looking for my new hood for a very long time and I am very, very happy with the result. If you knew how it looks great on the wall. I hope my answer will help in choosing.
Aunt Besya
Svetlana,Thank you! The manager called me and also did not recommend this model, but advised me to pay attention to the CATA THALASSA TC3V 600 GLASS negra model
her appearance is the same and the characteristics are about the same
Width, mm: 600
Color: stainless steel / black glass
Min. noise level, dB: 41
Max. capacity, (m3 / h) *: 990
Effective working capacity, (m3 / h) **: 820
Effective min. capacity, (m3 / h) ***: 627
Number of motors: 1x240 W
Operating modes: diversion / recirculation
Lighting: halogen 2x50W
Control: touch Smart Touch
Number of grease filters: 1
Number of speeds: 3
Auto-off timer: 15 minutes
Grease filter clogging indicator: yes
Duct diameter (mm): 120
Carbon filter type: TCF -002 (not included)
Volume, m3: 0.210
Weight, kg: 21.62
Country of origin: Spain
Warranty: 2 years
Brand: CATA

Now I will look for your model and I will think about it!
At the same time, this manager explained to me that the box, it turns out, has a purely decorative function in any model. that you can not put it, you can put only one part and its purpose is to cover a banal corrugation
Svetlana201
Aunt Besya, the cooker hood that you were offered (CATA THALASSA TC3V 600 GLASS negra) is very beautiful, just pay attention if you saw it live or when you see the front part of it covered with spruce or not? Are the cracks visible when standing in front of the hood? just if they are visible, then all the dirt will be outward, and if the front panel covers the cracks, then there is no dirt. Stainless steel is badly washed, painted is probably better, my new hood is all made of glass.
Aunt Besya
Quote: Svetlana201

Aunt Basya, the cooker hood that was offered to you (CATA THALASSA TC3V 600 GLASS negra) is very beautiful, just pay attention if you saw it live or when you look at the front part of it is covered with spruce or not? Are the cracks visible when standing in front of the hood? just if they are visible, then all the dirt will be outward, and if the front panel covers the cracks, then there is no dirt. Stainless steel is badly washed, painted is probably better, my new hood is all made of glass.
I have not seen and will not see, I choose in the online store with delivery to my village! We don't have this
Asking such details from a manager is completely pointless, they are usually. They don't see the goods - where are they, and where is that warehouse ..
And where are the cracks? What should the front end cover?

Purely from the picture, it is solid. The rectangle in the center is, as I understand it, a removable grease filter.
Here is what is written about her on the CATA website
New in 2010 in the GRAFICA series is THALASSA, a black vertical monolithic glass hood with a new Smart Touch control. Everything in this hood is harmonious, calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. The perimeter suction openings in this hood are hidden behind a slightly retractable front surface of the same black glass and look like part of the design. The dimensions of the front panel match the width of the decorative box and the rest of the hood. This inconspicuous front part is in great harmony with the entire design of the hood, creating a certain aesthetic graphic concept. It looks great in hoods 60, 70 and 90 cm. Kitchen air cleaner CATA THALASA
Svetlana201
No, it is not one-piece. It consists of two parts, front and back, and between them the cracks in which it pulls. the front is superimposed - it is hung, as it were, on the back panel on the screws, figuratively speaking, that is, there is a distance between them. The front is always smaller than the back, a grease filter is inserted in the back panel, that is, there is a hole into which it is inserted, so if the front part covers this hole with its size, that is, it is not visible if you look at the hood directly in front of you - then this is very good , You do not see cracks and dirt. The front panel usually rises from the bottom up and there is a rear filter inside that is taken out and washed and reinserted. I don’t know clearly explained or not. You look at similar ones, maybe somewhere the picture will be clearer than I tried to explain.
lega
Quote: Aunt Besya

Obloms ... her embedding width is 90

Len, where did you get that 90? THALASSA TC3V 600 GLASS negra ..If there were 90, then the marking would be THALASSA TC3V 900 GLASS negra ... they are, after all, for different widths of the catching screen ...
Aunt Besya
Gal, this is me about the one that Sveta recommended - about Hotpoint Ariston HKQV 9K / HA: D, she is 90
Svetlana201
And the larger the front part, the better.
Aunt Besya
I liked it, I’ll probably buy it. I have an electric stove, there is practically no soot, I can probably handle it!
julifera
In both of these models, they do not write how much the hood consumes watts.
Svetlana201 - and how much does yours eat?
And I understood correctly - you can not do the diversion and the smell will still be neutralized?
I just sorely do not want to drag this pipe throughout the kitchen, it is easier for me to open all the windows for ventilation.
Svetlana201
julifera, revised all the instructions and all the papers that were with the hood and did not find the consumption of e-mail anywhere. energy I think you can call any store that sells this hood and ask them to clarify this issue.
Svetlana201
We removed the pipe (it was on the previous hood) and everything is ok, there is no smell at all, and we can use the charcoal filter in the PM just like the grease filter and it must be changed once every 3 years.
Pinky
People need advice! Gathered to buy a hood. From the abundance of models, my eyes run up, but I looked at myself a few pieces. Tell me, a layman - if there are functions for air extraction and recirculation, is this necessary? Or is it enough just to vent air? I read that if there is recirculation, then the carbon filters must be removed. This is how to understand - every time you cook, you need to remove these filters or what? And if there are no charcoal filters in the kit, do they need (or just can) be installed additionally? And where if they are not provided? And is this recycling even necessary? Please respond, who has such models. I am faced with a choice of either SATA or VENTOLUX. My kitchen is 21 m. The hood needs a powerful one.
sazalexter
Quote: Pinky

And is this recirculation necessary at all?
Not needed, IMHO, just a hood is better. Choose by design, firms see above on the topic
Pinky
Yes, I somehow do not insist on recirculation, but in those models that I liked (mainly in terms of power) this recirculation is almost everywhere mentioned. Is it a separate function or is it turned on simultaneously with the hood? Maybe you just can not include it (if it is separate)?
And, as far as I understand, this recirculation, coupled with charcoal filters, also removes odors in the kitchen. I would, of course, have something simpler, but to be powerful and odors would also be good to eliminate. True, I hardly imagine how this is possible "in one bottle"
Svetlana201
A charcoal filter is immediately attached to my hood (it takes away all odors), I use it, and we removed the pipe that was previously inserted into the air outlet. Look at the selected hoods, whether there is a charcoal filter or not.
Pinky
If you remove the pipe, where will the air go? It turns out that the air will pass through the charcoal filters and just chase the kitchen? Considering how much I cook, I'm not sure if you can do just charcoal filters. And it is difficult to buy them from us and change, I think, will often be necessary. So I will look for an option just with an air vent. We want to lead the pipe through the ceiling under the roof and then lead it to the street.
Rita
Recirculation is needed if there is no way to exhaust air to the outside. The air is chased through charcoal filters and purified. Although, in fact, all the odors remain, so the best option is to take the air out.

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